XJ rear axle differences

[BuckeyeBullet]

I give up, I need some help from the experts. Vehicle is a 2001 XJ with Chrysler 8.25 rear axle. I've been looking around at ~3" lift kits and have found some that are designed for specific years and some that are designed for specific axles. What are the differences between axles that would affect suspension components? Does it have to do with axle tube diameter, spring perch location, etc? Did the axles change between model years or was it a matter of options when the vehicle was new? I saw a reference somewhere that leaf springs could be different widths too, but most lift kits don't mention that issue.

For example, why would a lift kit with full rear leaf packs designed for 95-97 XJ's with unspecified axle not fit on a 2001?

I'm not planning to change axles but since there are So Many lift options I want to get some facts straight before I do any mods. It looks like there are more options for the Dana 35 than the Chrysler but I've also heard that the Chrysler axle is better. Just to be clear, I'm NOT asking opinions on what kind of lift kit to get, I just want to know about the axle differences. Thanks

 

[eflosd]

i have never herd of a difference of leaf spring widths, the only thing you need to worry about is ordering the kit with the correct u bolts, i believe its 3" Inner diameter for the 8.25 and 2 3/4" for the dana 35. the 8.25 will have absolutely no problems with a 3" lift and im assuming 31" tires. not to mention you have a 97+ so its 29 spline, comparable in strength to a dana 44.

just for reference the dana 35 came on all xj's with ABS and the c8.25 on all xjs without ABS ( this of course excludes the d44 which was avail on i think 87-89?? xjs with the tow package)

hope this helps

 

[BIGdaddy]

XJ Cherokee's only came with 3 different rear axles.

Dana 44 - VERY rare and only in pre-89 vehicles
Dana 35 - VERY common. All years
Chryco 8.25 - 27 spline -1989 to 1996
Chryco 8.25 - 29 spline - 1997-2001

1996 is a crossover year where it might have the 27 OR 29 spline c8.25. luck of the draw.

The main difference between a D35 and a C8.25 is the axle tube diameter. The C8.25 is 3" in diameter and the d35 is simply smaller, around 2.75" or so, necessitating different u-bolts. Only difference in part #'s that I'm aware of with the major kits from rubicon express, BDS, Rough country, etc...

The c8.25 has it's weaknesses, like still being a c-clip axle, and having pinion bearing issues every-so-often, but it is MUCH, MUCH stronger, even in the 27 spline format, than the d35. Both C8.25's will handle locked 32-33's with nary an issue. Locked 35's on the 29 spline are also no problemo. Very low instance of anyone breaking anything other than the occasional u-joint over on naxja, as well as the jeepers I run with. Lots of folks doing trails like the rubicon/dusy ershim, etc, with little regard to the rear axles health and still no failures.

spring perches are exactly the same in all four axles.

One thing to consider is that with the longer tailshaft that your transfer case has, and the longer pinion output that the C8.25 has, you are likely going to have driveline vibe issues from the get-go. Probably want to plan on installing a rear CV driveshaft in your budget to properly solve this issue.

 

[herdnerd]

The axle tube on the Chrysler 8.25 is larger than the Dana 35.

 

[briboki]

Ujoints can be different as well. If you're doing an SYE and new driveshaft you'll want to measure. Tom woods makes you measure before ordering...

 

[Black Dog]

Buckeye-you should pick up a copy of the High Performance Jeep XJ Builders Guide. Its got pretty much everything you need to know about every variation of the XJ/MJ and will even give you a place to look for help in identifying axles and transfer cases and whatnot.

 

[BIGdaddy]

Buckeye-you should pick up a copy of the High Performance Jeep XJ Builders Guide. Its got pretty much everything you need to know about every variation of the XJ/MJ and will even give you a place to look for help in identifying axles and transfer cases and whatnot.

Yup. Good resource.

 

[BuckeyeBullet]

Thanks for all the great info. This way I know I can buy a kit for a D35 and just source different U-bolts if needed. Hmm, I have a 8.25 under my '73 Fury III. It's not known for strength in that application, if it's even the same animal, but that car probably weights 1000lbs more than the Jeep ;-)

I see a few companies offering t-case drop blocks which allegedly work in place of a SYE for up to 3" lifts. I can make those parts to drop the t-case pretty easily, and some of the kits come with wedge shims to raise the pinion angle a little bit. Either way, I've heard of the driveline vibration issues and I know I have to do something about it... This Jeep is my daily driver in the colder months so it's gotta be able to cruise at 70mph comfortably.

 

[shogun]

I see a few companies offering t-case drop blocks which allegedly work in place of a SYE for up to 3" lifts. I can make those parts to drop the t-case pretty easily,

On-the-cheap.

Oh, I wouldnt do that unless you want to be changin' the motor/tranny mounts in the next year.

 

[MCObray]

 

[Stumpalump]

A wise man once told me to never put a penny into stock axels. The 35 is not worthy of any dirt because when they snap like a twig the wheel falls off. When it snaps all of the torque transfers to the front and it breaks. Now you are on the hill with no rear wheel and no front drive. That's a major malfunction and it happens easy. 8.25 may be a little stronger but it has drum breaks. Stock XJ breaks are too weak. For 300 bucks buy an 8.8 out of an explorer. Genuine Ford Motor Sports gears from Jegs drop in with basically no set up. Cr-mo axels with c-clip eliminator come with the wheel bolt pattern you need and you will have an axel that you never touch again. You can load it and beat it like it has a Dana 60 in it and you will have fantastic breaks. Have a stout driveshaft built to connect to your slip yoke eliminator and your entire rear drivetrain is bulletproof for little more time and money.

 

[Black Dog]

I would avoid a transfer case drop. The slip yoke was a dumb idea from the beginning so you're making a good improvement to do a SYE.

 

[DaJudge]

I made my own T-Case drop spacers and ran them for over a year when I had 3.5" of lift. They were only about 5/8" and worked well. Try it without first and see how you like it.
If you have an 8.25 rear end dont throw it away because the brakes suck. Find a set of discs off of a Liberty or Grand and use those. Cheap and much better than the drums, much easier than changing to the 8.8.

 

[Morticon]

I would avoid a transfer case drop. The slip yoke was a dumb idea from the beginning so you're making a good improvement to do a SYE.

What about those with the NP 242, where you have to do the hack and tap, is that still better then a spacer?

 

[reece146]

What about those with the NP 242, where you have to do the hack and tap, is that still better then a spacer?

Yes.