[YEAR 7!] Quit our jobs, sold our home, gone riding...

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Further south, we catch the Killimer Ferry. A 30 minute ferry ride to bypass the 2 hour ride around the bay between peninsulas

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Some sun and fun on the ferry ride!

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So I have this problem...

I've been battling zippers my whole life. It's always the first thing that fails on any piece of clothing I have. And motorcycle clothing (and gear) has a lot of zippers!

Neda keeps telling me, "You pull too hard!", "Keep the two sides close together when you zip up and down!", "Zip up, not out!" She's never had a zipper failure. Ever. Anyway, my jacket zipper just failed. I got this one two years ago when we first got to Europe because my other jacket zipper failed. And then now this...

I don't know why everything is falling apart on us now. The tent, my jacket... *sigh*

I need velcro on everything.
 
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We pass by this RV Park in Tralee. As good a place as any to stop for the night. Airing out our wet tent

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The RV park is deserted

There's a phone number on the window of the laundry/washroom building, to call someone if we're going to camp. We dialed the number but no answer and no answering machine...

I check the forecast and it calls for rain later on in the middle of night. I stare at our old, leaky tent drying out in the front yard...

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So with nobody around, we sneakily set up the tent in the laundry room!

We feel like such criminals... That night I sleep a nervous, shallow sleep, one ear open, listening to see if a security guard is going to drive up, come inside with his flashlight and kick us out (or worse) for trespassing! :(

It's well past midnight when the rain hits the windows of the laundry room. My feet are dry tonight but I don't get much rest...
 
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/366.html

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So the night passed uneventfully - no security guard kicking at our sleeping bags, which are spread out all over the floor of this dusty laundry room. We awoke unmolested in this deserted campsite in a small town tucked away in County Kerry, Ireland. Glancing nervously outside at the sunshine warming up our getaway bikes, we scarf down a lightning-quick breakfast and hastily pack up everything and try to leave the room as we found it. So glad everything (especially my feet) is dry!

Our route today skirts the southern shores of Tralee Bay. The morning air is so cold these days, and we once again insulate ourselves in our rainsuits, even though the clouds have exhausted their seemingly limitless supply of water. Due to all the other surprises we've found at tips of each peninsula, we're off to seek the treasure at the end of this finger of land: the Dingle Peninsula.

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About half-way through the Dingle Peninsula, the road deviates from the coast and heads inland. And up...

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The Conor Pass goes over the Dingle Mountain Range and at 1500 feet is one of the higest passes in Ireland

The road is so close to the edge of the mountain, you can peer down into lush green fields of the valley below!
 
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Not content to just watch the scenery flash by from our bikes, we dismount at the lookout point at the summit of the pass

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Beautiful! This whole landscape was carved by glaciers during the Ice Age.

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Closeup of the water in one of the lakes. So still it's indistinguishable from the sky above

At the bottom of Conor Pass, we ride through the town of Dingle, another one of those quaint sea-side villages. This one lies on the southern coast of the peninsula.

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Dingle. There's a joke in there somewhere, but I'm not going to make it because it's just too obvious.

As we ride through Dingle I wonder if Neda will stop to look for more berries.

Sorry. I couldn't help myself...
 
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From Dingle, we hug the shoreline of the southern coast. More scenic cliffs greet us along the way

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We do a loop around the end of the peninsula, stopping again to admire the scenery off the bikes

And then it's off to explore the next peninsula! Peninsula hopping on the western coast of Ireland. What fun!

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Stopping in Killarney to do some laundry

Killarney is the largest city in County Kerry. We've been on the move and camping all over Ireland for over a week now so our Clean-Clothes pannier is looking pretty empty, while the Dirty-Laundry pannier is almost bursting. Whenever our bikes start to mishandle due to the weight imbalance, we know it's time to do the wash.

Yes, yes, I know we slept in a laundry room last night, but we were in stealth mode and didn't want to alert anyone to our presence... Anyway, we pop our soiled skivvies in a coin-op machine and walk around town to find a place to eat while we wait out the spin and dry cycles.

Life on the road.
 
After Lunch'n Laundry (like Bed'n Breakfast -- hey, we should start an online business: AirLnL), we make the executive decision to stop for the day. There's a long route around this new peninsula, so we're going to leave it for tomorrow. We find a nice campsite just outside of town and set up camp. This time legally!

Also, we're stopping because we're getting so fatigued over shorter and shorter intervals on the road. I think it's time for another couple of days under a roof.

But rest will have to wait. Killarney is located on the east shore of a lake, Lough Leane. The next morning, we begin our tour of the Iveragh Peninsula and ride out to the west side of the lake. We heard that there's an amazing, narrow, twisty road that snakes between two mountains. This is the Gap of Dunloe:


This spot is very popular with tourists. It was so scenic that we had to go back and do it again. The other vehicles, hikers and the "jaunting car" (Irish horse-drawn carriage) were so used to us going back and forth that Neda waved to them as if to say, "Yep, we're back again..." :D

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We then rounded the southern shore of the lake back up towards Killarney. This is the viewpoint at Ladies View

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Upper Lake, just south of Killarney
 
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We are now on the famous Ring of Kerry, which is a grand loop around the Iveragh Peninsula

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Another scenic lookout, you can see the mountains of the next peninsula across the bay

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Irish countryside
 
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Rounding the bend on the Ring of Kerry

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More impressive views of Atlantic cliffsides from the road

At the end of the Iveragh Peninsula, we detour off the Ring of Kerry. There's another loop of road called Skellig Ring that takes us out to the very edge of the peninsula. There, we stop at the very quaint town of Portmagee to poke around and also grab some lunch.

Although tourist season is winding down on the west coast of Ireland, there's still a lot of people walking around.

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We met a nice couple from the US who were also doing some sightseeing. We had a great chat with them and they took a picture of us and e-mailed it to us the next day. Thanks Martha and Ed! :)
 
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Portmagee in Irish means "The Ferry". From here, you could catch a ferry to Valentia Island

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But now there's a bridge between Portmagee and Valentia Island, so the name is kind of outdated

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View of the colourful buildings of Portmagee from the bridge

We rode across the bridge to Valentia island, but it wasn't that interesting. Also, the ferry from the east side of Valentia Island back to the Iveragh Peninsula was closed for the season, so we had to double back and take the bridge again. Everything from the cold weather to all the closures tell us that it's getting very late in the season...
 
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Watch dem road apples up ahead, Neda!

It was getting late and we wanted to get to the next peninsula south for the evening. So we headed straight down to our final pass of the day: The Healy Pass on the Beara Peninsula.

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This isn't the Healy Pass. We got lost and this backroad took us over a marvelous viewpoint! Still not quite sure where this road was...

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Here it is: The Healy Pass

If you like twisty roads, you'll love the Healy Pass. Set high atop the mountains of the Beara Peninsula, the serpentine road winds through the barren landscape. Not a lot of pictures were taken while I was riding here, because I like twisty roads... :)

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So does Neda. Damn! You go girl!!! :D
 
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/367.html

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Bob the dog is sick.

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This is Bob. The dog who lives at the house where we are staying in Glengarrif

He was the first to greet us as we rolled up to our AirBnB on the Beara Peninsula. We were barely off the motorcycles, bags in hand, walking to the front door of the house when this cute, playful dog bounded up to us, with his well-loved, partially deflated soccer ball clamped firmly in his mouth. He then dropped the ball at our feet.

I know this game! I set my bags down on the driveway and picked up the ball. Ick, it was slimey with drool. I threw it across the front lawn. Our host dog sprinted out to fetch it and came back immediately, dropping the soccer ball at my feet again. Fun! I kicked the soccer ball down the yard again and picked up my bags. But in an instant, the ball reappeared at my feet. "We gotta check in, doggie! We'll play later!"

The dog seemed not to hear me and stared insistently at the ball.

I'm a sucker for playing with dogs and kids, so while Neda checks in, I do a few more rounds of kick and fetch.

After pulling myself away from the dog, I walk inside and introduce myself to our AirBnB host, Brid, apologizing for coming inside a bit later than Neda: "I was outside with your dog. He's so playful!"

"Oh, that's Bob. He's a bit... obsessed with that ball." She said it in such a way that didn't sound very positive.

Oh. Ok. *shrug* Owners sometimes get tired of playing with their dogs. I get it.

We're booked in Glengarriff for a couple of days. We've just about completed our tour of the western peninsulas of Ireland, so we're going to rest up before we head off the island. It's so idyllic on the Beara Peninsula. The BnB is so cozy, our host is very friendly, the countryside surroundings are idyllic, and we get to play with Bob, the dog!

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Neda plays kick and fetch with Bob. Again. And again. And again. And again.

We start to notice that there's something terribly wrong with Bob.

He doesn't look at us when we're playing with him. He didn't care about being petted or talked to. Absolutely no acknowledgement in his eyes. He just stares at the soccer ball. But worse of all, he doesn't stop. He's obviously exhausted from running back and forth in the front yard, chasing after his soccer ball. Tongue hanging long out of his mouth. Panting like a marathon runner at the end of the race, he keeps fetching and running, fetching and running. His tail doesn't wag. The whites of his eyes are like half-crescents, signalling distress. Most dogs we know would lose interest, call it off and saunter away. Not Bob. If we didn't stop the "game", he would have collapsed and died of exhaustion. Seriously.

I now know why Brid doesn't play fetch with him anymore. It was very obvious that Bob the dog was mentally ill.

We love dogs so much and it was heartbreaking to see an animal develop such a mania. There was no joy in him playing fetch. It was purely an obsessive-compulsive drive. I've never seen anything like this before in a dog. :(

Brid rescues animals that she finds in the area. She's got cats, dogs even a sheep that lives on the property. We talked a bit about Bob and she feels just as bad as we do. But he lives a good life and is well-cared for, despite the one-sided relationship.
 
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We're heading to Baltimore now!

After a couple of nights under a roof, we continue south to Baltimore, a small village in County Cork, near the south-western-most corner of Ireland. Our time with sea-side cliffs and winding, coastal roads is coming to a close. So grateful the sun decided to make an appearance just as we wrap up our tour of the western coast. Where were you the last two weeks?!?!

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These guys know how to relax. And with a great view too!

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An unlighted beacon (daybeacon) stands on the cliff of Baltimore harbour. Locals call it Lot's Wife because it resembles a pillar of salt
 
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There's an actual lighthouse on the other side of the harbour, you can see it in the distance

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Neda soaking up the sun and the sea-breeze. It was actually a lot windier than a breeze on the coast!

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Bikes wait patiently for us as we hike around Baltimore Harbour

And so concludes our journey along the Wild Atlantic Way. We hop on our bikes and start the long, inland trek back up to the more populated areas in the north-east.
 
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Along the way, we stop for a snack break. These berries are safe to eat because we are far from Dingle

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While riding along the southern shores of Ireland, we stop to see the Drombeg Circle

While not as old and nowhere as grandiose as Stonehenge, the Drombeg Circle served exactly the same purpose: It's an ancient UFO landing site. Smaller regional alien aircraft were routed here, while the larger, interstellar flights landed at Stonehenge.

Oh, and the stones are oriented towards the setting sun, so it was probably also used as some kind of calendar to mark the summer and winter solstices. But primarily, it was a UFO landing site.

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This is where the little green men took baths to freshen up between flights

Ok, enough educational content, back on the motorcycles! We ride the boring inland roads further northeast, stopping in the bustling city of Cork for a layover.
 
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Unfortunately, the AirBnB host listed her address wrong and we had to stop and try to ask around for directions

Dear AirBnB hosts, if you're going to use GPS points on your listing, don't use the city centre as your co-ordinates. It's annoying and frustrating to those of us who actually use a GPS...

Another quick sleep and we're off again. Just pounding out the miles to round off southern Ireland. About an hour outside of Cork, the main road goes through a range called the Knockmealdown Mountains and the long, boring trek northwards is broken up by:

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The Vee! A switchback in the road that descends into the valley

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This is Bay Lough, another one of those corries carved out by Ice Age glaciers

In the summer, the lake is surrounded by swaths of wild purple flowers. Now, it's just patches of brown. This is a popular spot for people in Cork to go hiking and swimming. In the summer...
 

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