[YEAR 7!] Quit our jobs, sold our home, gone riding...

I remember a BBC show from several decades ago (I think it was an episode of Nature) that highlighted the Kogi culture and lore. I was fascinated by the show and watched it several times.

I think my favorite part of travel is seeing the indigenous cultures. Guatemala was a quite a treat. It's truly a living history lesson, and I've surprised myself how interested I am now in their history since it was my least favorite subject in school. I think if you have kids, the biggest favour you can do for them is to travel to places to see history and geography in person, so when they study it it'll be that much more alive for them instead of just pictures and abstract dates and events.
 
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/131.html on December 28th, 2013

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We're in search for somewhere to call home for a while. Although there's a certain romanticism around the nomadic lifestyle, we're finding we're now craving a balance of stability and routine - somewhere where we can stock the fridge without having to label our food, use all the pots and pans in the kitchen and not have to clean up immediately, walk around in our underwear... No wait, I do that last one everywhere I stay anyway...

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Passing one of the small towns heading westwards from Puerto Berrio to Medellin

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Riding into the big city!

This is the bustling metropolis of Medellin - the second-largest city in Colombia. The Spanish language in this country is a bit different than what we're used to - the double "ll" in Medellin is pronounced like a "J" instead of a "Y". So we teach our family and friends back home how to pronounce Medellin by telling them that it rhymes with Neda-Gene.

A city with a name like NedaGene, how can we not stay here for a while?

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Hostel Casa Kiwi: "Just throw your motorcycle over there behind those plants..."

We booked into a hostel for a few days to get our bearings in Medellin. The plan is to search around for an apartment, which should greatly reduce the cost of our accommodations.

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Crashing a Christmas Party. What's ADV.com anyway...?

Just a few days into our stay, we were spotted on the road by Marc, another ADVRider who was traveling southwards as well. We were invited to a Christmas dinner at the Shamrock Pub, just a couple of blocks away from the hostel that we were staying at.

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Birds of a feather feasting together, while Valentino cooks up some mean ribs

We spent the evening hanging out with the latest group of motorcycle travelers who just got off the Stahlratte. The sailboat has dropped off two sets of bikers and backpackers in the time that we've been here! We feel like we're the welcome wagon to Colombia, and we'll soon be waving goodbye to these travelers as they make their way onwards.

We travel slow. Oh well...

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Hey we got a kitchen! And an apartment came with it as well! Neda is super-stoked!

The search for an apartment was quite painless. We got a referral from the Casa that we were staying in in San Gil the week before. When we dropped in to take a look at it, we fell in love with the place immediately. Located on the second floor of high-rise condominium, it's got a walk-out balcony where we can sit down and eat or read a book. It's in a very nice part of town called El Poblado. There's a grocery store right across the street and the subway is a 5 minute walk away.

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World-famous NedaBurgers make a return, with home fries and a side of sauteed mushrooms. Fancy!

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I got a Man-Cave! Well... a Man-Corner...

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We can catch a bit of sun out here on our balcony

The weather in Medellin is very temperate, even though we're fairly close to the equator. Because we're 5000 feet above sea level up in the mountains of Colombia, the average is about 22C all year round, it can get to 30C in the hottest part of the day and then down to 15C overnight. Because of its unchanging climate, Medellin has often been referred to as "La Ciudad de la Eterna Primavera" (The City of Eternal Spring).

In other words, the perfect place to settle down for a bit.

By contrast, Toronto is suffering from the worst ice storm it's had in several decades. Over half-a-million homes were without power in the dead of winter. When we tried Skyping with my folks for Christmas, we found out that they had to relocate to a friend's house because their house was without heat or electricity.

Although we feel bad for our family and friends, I kinda feel a bit smug sitting down here in the City of Eternal Spring... hehehe....

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So we get this idea that we'll ride everywhere in Medellin.
That idea dies a quick death when we get stuck in the city's horrible traffic...


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...so these are our new wheels!
 
Medellin is very much a large, modern city. With a population of about 2 million, it's about the same size as Toronto. All the amenities are available here, and within walking distance there are plenty of huge malls, one dedicated to just electronics! I'm in heaven!

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Every once in a while, we take a day-trip downtown, about 5 subway stops away

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Vera Cruz Church. Behind the scenes: Neda ran into the courtyard
flapping her arms to scare up these birds... Locals not amused...


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Sunlight on the Vera Cruz Church

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Found some time to get our shaggy-dos trimmed. Shamefully, it's been months overdue...

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What the heck are these things?

We were fascinated by the Parque de Las Luces (Park of Lights) downtown. It's as if a convention of giant Jedis just threw their lightsabers into the ground and went off to have lunch somewhere. We stuck around all afternoon and into the evening to watch them light up:

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I sense a disturbance in the city's electrical grid

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Lightsaber Park is quite a sight at night

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Popular place to hang out

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The Parque de Las Luces was right next to this very avant-garde-looking building

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Things are looking up for Neda

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Buildings nicely lit up downtown

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Can't get enough of the lightsabers

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Christmas lights decorate the streets of Medellin

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Streetside vendors take up valuable lane space downtown

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Peldar Bridge, just a few blocks away from our apartment, all lit up for the Christmas season

Oh yeah, our second Christmas on the road... Kinda cool...!
 

amg463

Observer
As a Torontonian currently in Toronto that's been to Medellin, never return. That place is amazing. Its rainy here now no more ice storms ;-)
 

Wainiha

Explorer
Medellin? That's crazy. The "Assassins Cradle". A girl told me once how it used to be when Pablo Escobar was the drug lord. Your pics look like nothing of what I saw.
 

Herbie

Rendezvous Conspirator
It's come up several times that he's re-posting blog entries. You can see the original date and link at the top of each entry.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 
As a Torontonian currently in Toronto that's been to Medellin, never return.

Haha, so true. We found it very difficult to leave.

Medellin? That's crazy. The "Assassins Cradle". A girl told me once how it used to be when Pablo Escobar was the drug lord. Your pics look like nothing of what I saw.

Things seem to have changed. Hopefully the next couple of blog entries will convince you! :)

Umm.. I'm confused. Why are we talking about and looking at pics of Christmas? Are you guys posting about the trip from 4 months back. What am I missing? Please give me a clue! Lol!

Here's an explanation.
 
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/132.html on January 15th, 2014

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Medellin is located in the Aburra Valley. The city creeps up both eastern and western slopes like an urban kudzu, eclipsing the mountainside underneath, threatening to crawl up even beyond the horizon. From any point in the heart of the city, you can see the terracotta-roofed urban sprawl curving upwards as if you were inside a Dyson Sphere.

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Because we are in a valley, there is a permanent haze as the mountains trap smog and pollution...

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...Despite that, we still love staying in our new adopted city!

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One thing Neda didn't like was this tiny pueblito...

To relieve Neda of her planning duties, I did a bit of research and found a tourist attraction not too far from our apartment called Pueblito Paisa (Paisa is the name that people from Medellin call themselves). It's a little replica turn-of-the-century villa built on top of a hill called Cerro Nutibarra, which I keep referring to as Nutbar Hill.

Neda wasn't impressed, saying it reminded her of Epcot Center: "Why would you visit the France Pavilion when you've already been to the real country?" But isn't the most popular pavilion at Epcot Center the USA Pavilion...? In your face, Neda!

The view of the city from up here was nice though...

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Cat hangs out in the fake church inside Pueblita Falsa. I think they actually do hold services here.

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Street painting in Parque Lleras

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Dropped into the Medellin KTM dealership

KTM has quite a lot of 200cc-400cc motorcycles on the showroom floor. It makes sense as there's no need for 115hp with the traffic and road conditions here, plus being small, light and agile means being able to lane split and filter through the constant jams and gridlock. Riding a motorcycle down here means saving an hour each day in commute time to work and back.

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Limited Edition is KTM-Speak for Pay More For Decals

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Beautiful city, horrible traffic!

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Apparently I took this picture not during Rush Hour. You can still see pavement...

I was really missing playing music for a long time now, but I didn't want to spend a lot of money buying an instrument that I knew I would just have to leave behind. So one day, while browsing the music stores, I found a cheap $40 guitar to bang away on! It doesn't stay in tune for very long though...

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...And now I'd like to play an ancient Chinese folk song called Too Ning...

We're two weeks into our month-long lease on our Medellin apartment and we are loving it! Life is muy tranquil. Neda peruses the grocery store daily coming up with dishes for us to try now that we have a kitchen. Even though this is supposed to be down-time for us, compared to me, she is a whirling dervish. All throughout this trip she has been preparing and giving weekly English lessons to her niece in Italy over Skype. Now she is able to devote more time and energy towards it.

I am able to devote more time and energy into doing nothing. :)

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We're really enjoying having home-cooked meals again. Easy on the budget and the waistline!

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Neda has been trying out new recipes. This is her No-Cream Mushroom Soup and Soft-Cheese and Spinach Crepes

I think back to my reservations about leaving the tiny haven of Taganga and now it all seems so silly. Everything is much better here: the weather, having our own place, having more stuff to see in the city. Neda did her research very well. To her credit, not once does she say "Told ya so".

I totally would have...
 
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Checkered cathedral of Plaza Botero behind the "Plump Fellow in Hat"

Gigantic bronze sculptures of chubby men, women and horses are littered all over the Plaza Botero, which is named after the artist who sculpted them, Fernando Botero. We were first exposed to his Rubenesque figures when we first arrived on Colombia's shores so long ago in Cartagena. That was almost 9 months ago! We haven't traveled very far since then...

On the weekends, the plaza gets super-busy - tons of tourists posing in front of the sculptures, and kids climbing all over them. In the middle of the day the bronze gets very hot, so not so many kids climbing then...

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Hey kiddies, you can ride the pretty horsey if you don't mind a bit of seared flesh...

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Back streets and the alleyways of Medellin

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North American Indians? In Colombia? Last time we saw this was back in Winnipeg
However, they weren't playing Peruvian flutes back then... LOL!


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In NedaGene, even the malls are cool-looking

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Open air shopping experience

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I'm next!

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Antique train sits as a monument in what used to be the old railway station in the heart of downtown Medellin

The railway system, constructed in the 1870s, used to be an important transportation network in Antioquia, hauling gold from the mines and then later coffee to all parts of the department. The trains stopped running by the 1960s, having been overtaken by the new highways being built and truckers hauling cargo faster, cheaper and further than the rail.

As we rode through the mountains of Antioquia to get to Medellin, we would often see remnants of the rail system - no tracks, but huge circular holes in the mountain face just large enough for a train to run through.

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A rainbow of variety in the streetside snacks

One nice thing about having a (temporary) permanent address is that we can get stuff shipped to us now. We took the opportunity to get some motorcycle stuff mailed to us that we couldn't find locally. Surprisingly, you can't find Heidenau tires at all in Medellin. When we asked the BMW dealer in town, his response was, "Our riders like to go fast", so nothing but street tires sold here. Our Tourance fronts were getting worn down, so we had to get a couple of K60 fronts shipped from Bogota.

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I installed a mini wading pool in the back, just like those El Caminos with their beds lined with garbage bags!
Helps with the MonkeyButt at the end of a long riding day...


I had to get one of my heated handgrips fixed, so we headed down to the dealership to get our fronts replaced as well. I've seen some other adventure riders roam all over the world with an extra set of tires strapped to the back. After having just ridden 2kms from the apartment to the dealership with these tires behind me, I don't know how anyone could do it for thousands of miles, month after month. They're freakin' heavy!

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Cool tank decal! "Adventure" is BMW-Speak for "Let's make your off-road bike heavier and less suitable for... Adventure..."

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Neda's bike is next in line for a frontirectomy
 
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/133.html on January 28th, 2014

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We can't seem to leave Medellin.

So much so that we're bumping up against several deadlines: our month-long lease on the apartment has come up, our three-month tourist permit is expiring and so is our vehicle insurance. I can't believe we've been in Colombia for three months!

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Government buildings downtown where we visited the Aduana offices

It took us a few days to visit all the different offices which were scattered all over the city: DAS (Departamento Administrativo de Seguridad) to renew our tourist visa, Aduana for our vehicle permits and Sura, which was the only company that would insure imported vehicles. The upshot is that we're legal in Colombia till the end of April! Actually, we only purchased insurance on a month-to-month basis, because surely we're not going to still be here in April!?!

But then again this is us, so you never know...

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Diana and Neda at AcroYoga

Early in our stay in Medellin, Neda had an irritating (to her) experience at the Exito, the grocery store that we live beside. At the meat counter, she asked for some cold cuts in Spanish. The guy behind the counter replied back in English. IN ENGLISH!!! Neda returned home furious! You see, all over Latin America she's been very proud of the fact that everyone congratulates her on how good her Spanish accent and grammar is. They always ask if she is a native speaker. Until now...

"DAMNYOU, MeatCounterGuy!"

So to fix this, she logs onto Couchsurfing, a web site that's primarily used for finding accommodations for travelers in new cities, but it can also be used to meet local people who are willing to show you around. On there, she finds Diana, who is willing to meet up and converse with Neda in her native Medellin tongue in exchange for some English practice.

The two become fast friends and when Diana finds out that Neda is a Yoga fan, they meet up on the weekends as well to practice AcroYoga in the park.

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Warning: Do not try this at home. Yoga professional at work.

Neda has been trying to drag me out to AcroYoga for weeks now. I've never had any interest in Yoga before and AcroYoga sounded way too circusy for me. But one weekend, I relented...

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I was right. This AcroYoga stuff was totally sideshow...

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I was not enjoying myself. Not. One. Bit.

So the whole point of AcroYoga is to combine Acrobatics with static Yoga poses. I quickly learned why they practiced in the park because if you're a novice, the poses involve a lot of falling down, hopefully on a soft surface like grass. If you get a face full of dirt, then you're doing a variant called AgroYoga.

Hint: if you see participants practicing on hard surfaces or on top of a really high platform, it means that they're really good and they're showing off.

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More advanced stuff... kinda hot too...

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A different kind of showing-off

We've made some friends in Medellin and created a semblance of a life with some routine, so when our lease on the apartment came up, we knew we wanted to extend our stay, but for how long was up for debate. In a strange turn of events, it was Neda who wanted to stay longer, perhaps to renew the lease for another month. I didn't want to leave immediately, but a month seemed too long. So we compromised and we're set to depart Medellin in two weeks time.

Before our trip, I never would have thought we'd stay put in one place for over 6 weeks! It's been really awesome here, but I'm starting to get itchy wheels syndrome!

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Medellin Transit involves trains, gondolas, blimps, hovercrafts, submarines...

One morning, we headed out on the Medellin transit system, which is called Metro, up into the mountains. The trains transfer to a cable-car that takes commuters up to the residences and buildings that carpet the mountainside. These gondolas are actually a necessity, as they make the barrios up here accessible to public transit, since buses have great difficulty traversing the narrow streets that wind through these steep hills. There are currently three different MetroCable lines that go up into the mountains.

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Catching the "L" MetroCable line at the Santo Domingo station

We're taking the "L" line, which travels deep into Arvi Park, a nature preserve set up by the Medellin government at the peak of the eastern mountain range. The introduction of the Metro Cable has made it very accessible to locals and tourists alike, and the park boasts lots of hiking trails, flora and fauna.

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Surprisingly, this is *not* part of the Metro system...

At Arvi Park, the government has set up a free bicycle rental. How nice! So we fill out some forms and now we're roaming the park on two wheels again!

It was here that we experienced our first run-in with the law. Although Neda is pro-helmet when it comes to motorcycling, this belief stops when it comes to bicycles... As part of the rental agreement that we signed, it stipulated that we would wear our helmet at all times. So when Neda coasted to a halt at one of the bicycle rental stations sans helmet, the official on duty pulled her aside and confiscated her bicycle. It was then that we were introduced to a new Spanish word: "Multa" which means fine.

We were going to get fined for a free service?!? That's a great way to make money for the city...

We surreptitiously walked away from the bicycle station and talked to a tour guide who was leading a group up to the viewpoint where you could see the whole of Medellin from up top. The bicycle official seemed to forget about us, so we thought we'd avoided the "multa"...

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Hey, it's the Medellin Epcot Centre on Nutbar Hill! We're a lot higher up now...

After a 15-minute hike, we got to the viewpoint and while it was true you could see the entire city, it was less than impressive because a thick cloud of smog and pollution blocked our view. I had to do a bit of Photoshopping in the picture above so you could actually make out any detail.

We made some friends with some local guys who were also on the tour, they were asking a million questions about our trip and our motorcycles. When we got back to the bicycle station, we decided to pay our "multa" and ride the bikes back to the MetroCable. The official wagged his finger at us: the "multa" wasn't monetary - it was "Bicycle Rental Privileges Revoked for Five Days!" LOL!

We walked sheepishly back to the MetroCable station and caught up to the locals who we had met earlier. When we told them about our "multa" they laughed at us and made fun of us the whole walk back. Good times!

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Our tour buddies, Lenin, Julian and Frank at Arvi Park
On the walk back, they taught us Colombian swear words and we taught them English ones! :)


These guys were hilarious. While we were on the long cable car ride back, we tried to help them pick up these very pretty Japanese tourists. No joy for them, but it was funny as hell!

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Back at ground zero

We heard something amusing from an American who was also traveling south on the Stahlratte with us. He swore that every Latin American beer was made from the same company but they just slapped a different label and shipped their weak-tasting beer to all the countries in Central and South America. Anyone who's sampled every weak, thin-tasting beer from Mexico all the way down south has to laugh, because it's so true!

However in Taganga, we were introduced to an amazing brew called Apostol. We especially like their darker beers, they reminded us of the English ales that we just can't seem to find anywhere down here. So when Neda found out they offered a tour of their brewery here in Medellin, we totally jumped at the chance to get some yummy beer-tasting in our last days in the city!

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Yeah yeah, enough of the history of the company, when do we start drinking?!?

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Different beers have to be poured at different angles to bring out the taste.
Yeah yeah, when do we start drinking?!?


The tour was actually quite interesting. The reason why ales are not that common in Latin America is that the grains required to make the darker, fuller-tasting brews require four seasons to harvest. We did not know that. Apostol imports all the grains and the ingredients from Germany, and their brewing equipment is German-made as well.

Even our tour guide's name is Hans. Hans Rodriguez-Gonzalez...

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Pretty, pretty colours

Speaking of equipment, I was entranced by the deep copper colours of these tanks, so as the tour went on, I stayed behind taking a million pictures. I think the security guard that stayed with me got a bit weirded out because I was acting very Smeagol-ly towards the pretty, precious kettles.

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My Precious...

Anyway, enough of all this non-motorcycle stuff... our time in Medellin is winding down. Wheels up, next blog entry!
 

Wainiha

Explorer
you are funny Gene. The pic with the guitar....Ha. Everyone should take a page from your book on how to write threads.
 

joeyabisa

Adventurer
Hey Gene, glad to hear you guys are having a blast. You should try and hook up with my friend Charlie. He's coming up from Argentina on his bike. I guess today he was in Jama pass & san pedro de Atacama. If you're on facebook, look him up- https://www.facebook.com/chazmdc?fref=ts . Send him a message and tell him I thought you guys would hit it off. He's from DC but has been on his bike for some time traveling.
 
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