Yes, it's a basket case. No, I was not on drugs when I built it... (2001 Toyota Tundra 2->4WD Build)

[smokeysevin]

2001 Toyota Tundra SR5 Access Cab V8 2WD 4WD

This "build" will be tame by most measures but will (hopefully) end up where I always wanted it to. It is also not going to have lots of cool travel pictures, its pretty much a home depot runner and occasional beach truck/jetski tow rig. The only reason its getting worked on at all is because I finally managed to cobble together all the parts I needed to finish the 4wd swap and thought "if I am going to do the work, I may as well do it how I wanted"

The truck as it sits now is a mutant hodgepodge of miss matched parts, 16-28 year old Sean was a real idiot. Lots of loose ends to tie up.

Recent maintenance has been:

2023
2007 Sequoia rear brake conversion and parking brake install
Motor and trans mounts
Rear axle rebuild
Pressure washed underbody and engine bay
Spark plugs
Starter motor
Fan and fan clutch
Heater hoses and valve replacement
Winch ground wire replacement
Reman'd front brake calipers and fluid flush
Front Brake pads
Driver's side outer cv boot
Double cardan center driveshaft joint rebuild


2022
Lower control arms
Lower ball joints
Upper uniballs
Upper control arm bushings
Inner and outer tie rods ends
Lower control arm pivots
Rear leaf spring rebuilt
Transmission service
Transfer case service and shifter lockout removal
Radiator and coolant

Current maintenance required:
Valve cover gasket replacement
Coolant/Heater valve replacement
Heater hose replacement
Charcoal canister/evap system repair
Seatbelt tensioner replacement

Spec overview: 2001 Toyota Tundra SR5 2WD 4WD

Engine
ASP Underdrive Pulley: (https://www.autospecialties.com)
Ported Upper and Lower Intake Manifold: (DIY)
Throttle Body Coolant Reroute: (DIY)
05-06 Intake manifold swap: (DIY)
SSAutochrome Shorty Headers and Y Pipe: (http://ssautochrome.com/level.itml/icOid/1430)
Magnaflow 2.5” Center In, Side Exit Muffler (Dumped Before Axle):
Magnaflow 2.25” “Spun Cat” Catalytic Converter:
Champion Cooling Aluminum Radiator: (https://shop.championcooling.com/2000-2001-2002-2003-2004-2005-2006-Toyota-Tundra)
HPS Silicone Radiator Hoses: (https://hpsperformanceproducts.com/...a-99-03-tundra-v8?_pos=3&_sid=8d6ce3a24&_ss=r)
URD Maf Calibrator (Untuned) : (https://www.urdusa.com/urd-maf-sensor-calibrator/)
URD Rear O2 Sensor Simulator (high flow cats kept tripping the CEL)
Ebay Air Intake
Volant Donaldson Power Core Air Filter

Drivetrain

Transmission/Transfer Case/Driveline
2004 A340F 4wd Transmission
Radesigns Winters Shifter with electronic control system (http://www.radesignsproducts.com/winters-elec.-control-kits.html)
2000 J Shift Manual Transfer Case
Radesigns Twin Stick Shifter (http://www.radesignsproducts.com/triple---twin-sticks.html)
Hendrix Motorsports Billet Aluminum Carrier Bearing: (https://www.polyperformance.com/hen...um-carrier-bearing-support-for-toyota-cbs-001)

Front End
2000 7.5” Clamshell Front Differential
4.56 Yukon Gears
Toyota Supra Limited Slip
ECGS Solid Bearing Spacer
Locked ADD Actuator
94.5 Tacoma Manual Locking Hub Swap
Aftermarket Spindle Hubs
OEM Wheel Bearings and Seals
OEM Manual Lockout Hubs
DTA Tacoma Outer Axles
OEM Tundra Inner Axles

Rear End
GM 12 Bolt Truck Rear Axle
Yukon Heat Treated Axle Shafts
Mark Williams Enterprises Steel Bearing Cap
Mark Williams Enterprises 1310 Yoke
Low Range Offroad Toyota to 1310 U Joint: (https://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/131...t-u-joint-universal-joint-tdi-1310-toyuj.html)
Detroit Tru-Trac Differential
Yukon Gear 4.56 Gears
Moser Bearing Support Diff Cover

Brakes
Brake Hydraulics
Toyota 4runner Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster
T100 1-Ton Master Cylinder
Wilwood Adjustable Proportioning Valve (https://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/260-12627/10002/-1)
LSPV Delete
Wheelers Offroad Extended Rear Brake Line (https://wheelersoffroad.com/shopbyv...eight-to-2-lift-tf-bline-05-red-or-black.html) Currently too short

Front Brakes
2006 Tundra Brake Update

Rear Brakes
Custom Brake Caliper Mounts
GMT 1500 Front Brake Rotors
GM LT1 Camaro Rear Brake Calipers

Suspension

Front Suspension
Donahoe Racing (Icon) Extended Travel Coilovers (http://iconvehicledynamics.com/shop...dra-ext-travel-front-coil-over-shock-kit.html)
Camburg Uni-Ball Upper Control Arms (https://camburg.com/shop/suspension...wd-00-06-performance-1-00-uniball-upper-arms/)
Sway Bar Delete
Total Chaos Fab Steering Rack Bushings (https://www.chaosfab.com/accessories/2000-2006-Tundra-Urethane-Rack-Bushings-97701)
Total Chaos Fab Double Shear Plates
Total Chaos Fab Spindle Brace
Total Chaos Fab Uniball Adapters and Misalignment Spacers

Rear Suspension
Deaver G57 Spring Over Leaf Springs (https://deaverspring.com/product/tundra-2wd-4wd-1999-2006-10-leaf-spring-1-inch-lift-rear/)
SOS Custom Rear Cantilever Suspension
FOA 10” Travel Remote Reservoir Shocks (https://f-o-a.com/shop/f-o-a-2-5-inch-id-reservoir-shock-10-inch-travel/)
Airlift Dominator 2600 Airbags (https://www.airliftperformance.com/product/58616/)
Daystar Air Bag Cradles (https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/daystar-air-bag-cradle-ku09140bk/_/R-BKCG-KU09140BK)
G2 1.5” Wheel Spacers





Utility
SOS Custom Bedcage
TT Motorsports “Harbor Freight” Jack Skid (https://www.tt-motorsports.com/prod...floor-jack-skid-plate-and-quick-release-mount)
SOS Quick Release Fire Extinguisher Mount
US Cargo Control "Airline" L-Track (https://www.uscargocontrol.com/Aircraft-style-seat-track-6-ft)
Viair 5 Gallon Air tank (https://www.viaircorp.com/air-tanks/5gallon)
MF1050 Air Compressor (https://masterflowair.com/products/mf-1050)
Jim's Machineworx Battery Terminals
1000W Renogy pure sine wave power inverter
40MM Ammo Cans




Tools
Required for service/repair

Recovery Gear
Straps
Shop Towels
Solar Charger
First Aid
Air Hose
12k Winch

Fluids
Oil
Trans Fluid
Diff Fluid
Brake Fluid
40MM Ammo Can Locks

Lighting
Aftermarket “Black” Headlight Housings (http://www.ajpdistributors.com/0001020304to3.html)
TRS Morimoto BI-LED Projector Retrofit (https://www.theretrofitsource.com/bi-led-morimoto-m-led-headlight-projectors-kit.html?preselect=52976,54340,49863)
Nilight 7” LED Spot Pattern Lights
Clear Laminx
Amber Laminx
Orange Laminx
Nilight 2X3 18W Dust Lights
Nilight 2X3 18W Reverse Lights
KC Hilights Cyclone Amber Rock/Service Lights (https://www.kchilites.com/light-type/led/cyclone.html)

Interior
Alpine Android Auto Head Unit (https://www.alpine-usa.com/product/ilxw650_kta450_power-duo_package)
Firestick Antenna (http://www.firestik.com/CatalogFrame.htm)
Sony Xplod 800w Amp
Kicker S8L5 Subs under rear seat
Infinity Reference Speakers
Raamat Sound Deadner
Switchpros SP9100 (https://store.switchpros.com/sp-9100-switch-panel-power-system/)

On Hold
Raspberry Pi 3B+ with Display
Microsquirt for logging/temp monitoring (may run engine at some point or may just leave passive) (https://www.diyautotune.com/product/microsquirt-engine-management-system-w-30-wiring-harness/)
Trans Temp
Oil Temp
Oil Pressure
Water Temp
AFR
RPM
MAP
TPS

Exterior
Roadrunner Fiberglass Front Fenders
Chopped and Pulled Rear Fenders
Rear Bumper Delete
SOS Custom Rear Hitch
2006 Tundra Grille

Long term goals are for long travel front end while retaining 4wd, rear glass, full paint, new seats (probably prp) 4.88's and 35s all around (which will involve a swap to a 9" FF Rear), a winch and custom front bumper.

Sean

 

[smokeysevin]

Headlight Retrofit Details

Aftermarket “Black” Headlight Housings (http://www.ajpdistributors.com/0001020304to3.html)
TRS Morimoto BI-LED Projector Retrofit (https://www.theretrofitsource.com/bi-led-morimoto-m-led-headlight-projectors-kit.html?preselect=52976,54340,49863)

The install is very easy to do, no cutting was required and only 2 holes need to be drilled for the wiring to come out of the light. The retrofit lights installed super easily and the beam pattern is loads better than stock.

It is unnerving to bake your headlights but it went off without a hitch.

After the retrofit was done I wrapped the lenses in clear laminx to hopefully keep the wear/pitting/haze at bay. There is not a kit (that I could find) but I got 2 sheets of 12*36 or 48 and it was more than enough to do all the lights probably twice. The corners were really hard to do, the amber reflector on mine looks pretty bad but I figure id rather have it covered than broken again.

Just a fyi, the bi-led projectors require 9006-h4 adapters and also require modifying the headlight circuit to keep the low beams on while the high beams are on. I ended up just taking the ground wire from the headlight ballast and tagging it directly to the body. This keeps the low beam circuit lit and still allows the headlights to be turned off by the factory relay and switch, the fog lights also function as normal.

Additionally the high beam shroud sticks from time to time, cycling the light off then resets this for some reason, as does hitting a bump.

The shrouds (panamera 1.0) required breaking the tabs off and using plastic epoxy to fit and also required trimming. On the rear of the housing I stretched the stock bulb seal over the retrofit mount to seal.

I used one roll of retrorubber to seal the housing after splitting them and once reassembled I sealed the edge with clear silicone.

I thought the red shrouds would look cool when I was doing the install, if I did it again, I would probably go with a different color or something more muted.


Sean

 

[smokeysevin]

Winch Install

0.25" thick plate frame rail caps fully welded around the ends of the stock frame rails
Basic structure is 2.5" square tubing with 0.25" wall thickness (formerly the trailer hitch on the rear: 38.5" long outer edge to outer edge)
0.120" thick doubler plates on the inside corners of the frame rails (3" square fully welded)
2.0" with 0.25" wall thickness square tubing gussets on the interior corners
0.25" outer edge doublers that tie the open end caps into the frame.
2.0" * 3.0" * 0.120" wall front gussets under the extended lip of the winch plate
0.25" Ballistic Fab 24" long winch plate welded along all bottom edges with (qty 3) 0.75" plug welds spaced evenly between bolt holes and perimeter along top plate. (https://www.ballisticfabrication.com/products/generic-winch-plate)

Sean

 

[smokeysevin]

Manual Hub Information, Swap, and Axle Assembly

Here is a good reference for manual hub part numbers and whatnot: https://www.sonoransteel.com/junk_yard_manual_hubs.html

Parts
I went with these hubs as the OEM ones I had were damaged
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-WHEEL-HUB-BEARING-FOR-1995-2004-TOYOTA-TACOMA-4WD-1-SIDE-MANUAL-LOCK/292916701945?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I went with the high angle inner cv boots from trailgear.
I ended up buying aftermarket hubs but new oe bearings, seals, and hardware.
I am using used oe Aisan lockouts, and aftermarket axles from DTA

Front Axle Modification
I can happily report that the driveshaft splines on the aftermarket dta tacoma manual hub axle outer cv joints fit on the stock tundra inners.
I had to cut the stock tundra outer cv joint to free the balls, then you can remove the outer retainer clip, once the cage is removed.
On the Tacoma outers, you want to cut the axle as close to the cv as possible. Then remove the balls and cage. Finally, grind the outer splines off the axle stub and remove it from the inner cv race. Clean everything to remove any metal shavings or grinder dust.

Stock Tundra 4wd Outer

Unmolested DTA Tacoma Axle

DTA CV with Dust Boot removed, notice the shoulder where the inner cv race is connected to the shaft. This area on the tundra axle has a c-clip while this is a hard shoulder on the taco axle. You want to cut the axle close to this shoulder to allow the CV to spin for ball removal.

Cut DTA Tacoma Manual Hub Outer

DTA Stub End cut and splines ground down to allow for removal of CV Inner Race. There is a small retaining ring that locks the inner cv race in place on the shaft. One side of the cv race is tapered while the other is a flat shoulder. The shoulder prevents you from pressing or using a puller to remove the inner race. I broke a 3 jaw puller to find this out so you didn't have to. Grind down the splines on the taco shaft and then use a puller or a hammer and punch to pop the remains of the once proud tacoma shaft out.

This picture needs to be updated, this is the tundra stock inner on the tundra shaft. Of course it fits.

Reassembly
This was a huge pain to do, the aftermarket outer cages needed to be clearanced slightly from the factory for the balls to fit properly. I also ended up tearing one of the provided boots and have since replaced it with a more quality version from Trail Gear, the other will get replaced if/when it tears.

The inner stock tundra cv joints joints were trimmed down for clearance based on total chaos' instructions.
I tried using the jerk-press method on the stock tundra outer and apparently just have ********** arms because I couldn't the clip to pop off. I ended up just hacking up the stock cage and forcing the balls out, you might have better luck than I did. Treat this as a last resort.

Trimmed vs Untrimmed

Stock vs cut

Always clean your balls

Assembled but not-clamped.

Spindles and Hubs
Prior to installing the new wheel bearings, seals, and hubs I tossed the spindles into the blast cabinet to try and clean up my ************ welding (it didn't work). At least the seymore (butts) stainless paint stuck well.

I cleaned up the inside races of the spindles and installed new oe bearings and seals, then pressed in the new (aftermarket) manual hubs flanges.

The drivers side turned out great and went in fine, the passengers side did not. I had to replace on of the roller bearings in the passengers side hub because it was way too tight on the axle. Even after swapping it out, its still tighter than I would like. I may see if I can get a new oe hub to replace this one.

New total chaos uniball adapters, bolts, and misalignment spacers completed the spindle swap and bolted on to the camburg arms I had on the truck.

Sean

Spindles (Don't zoom in)

Wheelwell Shot

Fender Shot

Money Shot

Sean

 

[smokeysevin]

Champion radiator install

I bought this a few months ago when my second oem radiator (truck has 275k miles on it) started leaking around the end tanks where the crimped on section attaches to the core. They come available from time to time and are sold as an improved version with oe fit.

At first glance it appered to be well made with a few caveats.

Radiator as shipped

OE bracket overlaid with new radiator, note the mis-positioned tabs

Mounting Ears and Rivnuts; I am not a huge fan of these, the distance to the edge was smaller than I liked and I will probably add an additional lower support along the bottom.

I ended up removing the mounting ears to fit the radiator into the proper spot for the mounts. This made installing it precarious since it did not hook into place. Upon install, I had to remove it to adjust the spacing from the front of the core to the core support because it was rubbing on the top tank.

I drove around for a bit to make sure all was well and was greeted with puddle when I got home. There was a small groove on the underside of the upper radiator hose that allowed fluid to leak out. I cleaned it up with an emory cloth and green scotch brite pad and it has been fine since.

End impressions; For ~$300 for an all aluminum radiator that was "direct fit" I am not super happy. It works now after modifying it and fixing a leak. If it lasts another 200k and 10 years I will feel less bad about it.

Sean

 

[smokeysevin]

Microsquirt / Raspberry Pi Gauge

I wanted to be able to monitor lots of parameters without spending $600+ on gauges and logging equipment. I had been working on this project as a means to run a Kawasaki Jetski a few years ago and already had the parts around for it so into the truck it goes. The side benefit is that I could run the truck off the microsquirt if I chose to, that may happen later. For now the build is as below.

Raspberry Pi V3B+
Microsquirt Preassembled (https://www.diyautotune.com/product/microsquirt-engine-management-system-w-30-wiring-harness/)
Pi Foundation 7" Display and Case
Mausberry Circuits Car Power Supply W/ Autoshutdown (https://mausberry-circuits.myshopify.com/collections/frontpage/products/4amp-car-supply-switch)
RS232 hat (https://www.pishop.us/product/serial-hat-rs232/ )
Temp Sensors (https://www.diyautotune.com/product/gm-closed-element-clt-iat-sensor-with-connector/)

One thing to be aware of, is that you should run a shutdown switch on the pi to keep the sd card from getting corrupted. The power supply above takes a key on and always on circuit and tells the pi to shut down when you turn the ignition switch off, then kills power to the circuit once the pi is shutdown.
I am using a microsquirt as my sensor interface and relay controller for my aux fans which uses an old style db9 port for communications so I installed a rs232 hat
The serial hat took a bit of fiddling to get working but its been stable since. Tunerstudio runs native in linux so the setup is pretty straightforward to get running. Basically you configure tunerstudio to load directly in gauge mode and setup the pi to load tunerstudio on boot.

I plan to monitor oil temp, coolant temp, and trans temp for now with AFR, rpm, and tps to be added.

I have a bezel designed to bolt the screen in place in the console that I will post later.

Sean

 

[trailscape]

This looks like fun. ?

 

[smokeysevin]

This looks like fun. ?

Its a well put together list of all the bad ideas you would like to try on your truck but instead you listened to the little voice in the back of your head saying "wow that's a terrible idea"

Sean

 

[trailscape]

Its a well put together list of all the bad ideas you would like to try on your truck but instead you listened to the little voice in the back of your head saying "wow that's a terrible idea"

Sean

I think that's what I always call a "Work in Progress".

 

[GoodEnoughforGabe]

Subscribed. I'm always interested in 4wd Longtravel... you got yourself a nice truck there and more importantly more motivation then me to get it done!

I just did both rear bearings in my truck... one of my axleshafts completely snapped so i replaced that and figured I'd do both sets while I'm at it. What's next for your build after the gauge? Cheers ?

 

[Mrmrswelch]

what improvements did you find in switching to the larger diameter master cylinder from the t-100?

 

[smokeysevin]

When I did the rear axle swap I installed rear disc brakes and in the process went through several different combinations of calipers, master cylinders, and boosters. The rear calipers I have installed now are pretty small but at one point I was using really large piston calipers in the rear. This made the pedal travel very long before the calipers started to work and gave a really mushy pedal. I swapped to the larger diameter master cylinder which drastically reduced the pedal throw.

I am now running camaro lt1 rear calipers which have really small pistons so the pedal is much more firm but I actually prefer it to the spongy pedal most Toyotas have. I picked up a set of sequoia rear calipers and rotors a few months ago with the intention of making a new bracket and setup but have not gotten around to it.

To do the swap from the tundra stock master cylinder to the t100 you have to swap to the dual diaphragm booster from a 4runner since the bolt pattern on the master cylinder is different. (2 bolt on the tundra vs 4 bolt on the t100) The booster will bolt up to the firewall without modification but it requires you to adjust the brake push rod on the pedal. The stick out is a little different between the two setups.

Sean

 

[tdferrero]

Welp. I absolutely love it.

 

[Mrmrswelch]

To do the swap from the tundra stock master cylinder to the t100 you have to swap to the dual diaphragm booster from a 4runner since the bolt pattern on the master cylinder is different. (2 bolt on the tundra vs 4 bolt on the t100) The booster will bolt up to the firewall without modification but it requires you to adjust the brake push rod on the pedal. The stick out is a little different between the two setups.

Sean

which model 4runner did you get the booster from?

what advantages did you see with eliminating the LSPV?

 

[smokeysevin]

which model 4runner did you get the booster from?

what advantages did you see with eliminating the LSPV?

I don't remember but I will try and find out.

Edit: check here, seems accurate from my memory. I will take some pictures tomorrow to confirm more information.

1st Gen Master Cylinder/Brake Booster Upgrade

www.tundrasolutions.com

Toyota 4x4 Brake Master Cylinder and Brake Booster Specs

Mushy brakes? Worn out brake master? Read here to find out about larger bores, dual diaphragm boosters, and better stopping for big tires on your Toyota.

www.roundforge.com

The lspv removal was really just to facilitate the disc setup, by removing it I was able to correct the front to rear brake bias with the manual wilwood valve. Additionally, the extra travel in the rear would mean that the brakes would change significantly even if the bed wasn't loaded. It was simpler to just remove it especially since my truck is an early non-abs model.

Plumbing wise, you remove the return line from the valve and just run the dedicated send line to the rear with the manual proportining valve in line. In the front you have to remove one of the lines and just tee the front left and right together. Much simpler than stock when its all said and done.

Sean