Yes, it's a basket case. No, I was not on drugs when I built it... (2001 Toyota Tundra 2->4WD Build)

[smokeysevin]

EDIT: I have since gone back to the standard J-Shift pattern/shifter. I was never able to concretely say that it caused the issue, but I had a transfer case syncro go out because the case kept trying to shift into 4wd on the highway. I replaced the case and went back to the original shifter and have not had an issue since.

Manual transfer case shifter fab. The bracket bolts onto the rear of the stock t-case and should clear the floor better than what I am using now. Fingers crossed, I am going to try it on the truck tomorrow. At this point, it should work better than what I am using now as a stopgap.

Materials:

Bracket is 1.5" Wide 0.125" Thick mild steel

Tools:

Porter Cable 4x36 Belt and 8" Disc Sander
Milwaukee Portaband with Swag offroad table
Irwin Step Drill
Everlast I-mig 140e
Grizzly Vise Brake
Certiflat Welding Table

Parts:

Kartek 48" -04 Cable (2" Travel)
FK rod ends 1/4"-20 Rod ends
RadDesigns Twin Stick Shifter

PPE:

Miller Digital Infinity
Miller Blue Mig Gloves
Teva Flip-Flops

Sean

Had to revise the passengers side of the bracket to pull it in closer to the mounting hole. Apparently the center line of my transmission is not in the center of the tunnel.

The clearance on top of the mount is also a little less than I would like but the cables clear and line up pretty well.

Had to cut some holes in the floor and patch some others to make a cable pass through.

I picked up some firewall grommets from Jegs (https://www.jegs.com/i/Daystar/319/KU20040BK/10002/-1)

One cable is stock from winters for the transmission shifter

The transfer case shifter cables are 48" long 2" throw -4 cables from kartek.

Space is pretty tight under the floor and I have to work around the driveshaft, transfer case, exhaust, and floor.

 

[smokeysevin]

Lighting and Electrical 1

After spending close to $500 on wire sleeves to make sure I didn't create a tinder box. I finally got around to running wires for my service/rock lights, air compressor, and winch. I spent 3ish days cutting, routing, and then disassembling to sleeve the wires. The sleeving process was frustrating and I managed to wear through a pair of mechanics wear gloves while playing with the mesh sleeve. I still need to get a few wire clips to clean up the route a little more but I am fairly happy with how it has turned out. All the cables are routed and secured away from any moving or hot parts. I used marine grade tinned copper wire for everything.

Sean

Sleeved cables for the service lights, air compressor, and under hood service/running lights

Switchpros mounting position.

Terminal block for the switchpros, I still have some cleanup to do here but I am waiting on cable to do it properly. I am also planning to replace the stock battery hold down.

Sleeved winch wiring, I also need to hookup the front camera.

Terminal blocks for service lights mounted to existing holes in the C framerail

Forward engine/suspension service lights.

Drivers side engine service light

Rear axle, cantilever, air control service light. The air hose routing is also temporary.

Terminal blocks for the service lights inside the frame rail.

Driveshaft/exhaust service light

Front suspension service light

Swapped out my stock battery terminals for these multi port ones from jims machineworx.

They are made really well but felt loose/slippery to me. The terminals could be twisted a bit even after I have really tightened them up which makes me nervous. I ended up using a small carbide burr to cut a small notch midway along the taper parallel to the terminal axis and another one perpendicularly to that one so when the terminal is tightened, it squishes some of the terminal material into the grooves and holds in place. They have held up really well once modified.

I splurged and got myself a hydraulic crimper to do the dirty work, this one is good from 12-0/1. That plus some adhesive lined heat shrink made short work of the swap.

Crimper

Switchpros Mount

Battery Terminals

Sean

 

[trailscape]

Had my eye on that crimp tool for a while. Hope it works well for you as I think I might get one soon. I have the spring loaded one that you ********** with a hammer and it's not very convenient.

 

[smokeysevin]

Had my eye on that crimp tool for a while. Hope it works well for you as I think I might get one soon. I have the spring loaded one that you ********** with a hammer and it's not very convenient.

It works really well but its a little tricky to do by yourself. Holding the tool and crimping at the same time as pushing the terminal into the wire and holding them together really is a 3 or 4 hand maneuver.

Sean

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk

 

[trailscape]

It works really well but its a little tricky to do by yourself. Holding the tool and crimping at the same time as pushing the terminal into the wire and holding them together really is a 3 or 4 hand maneuver.

Sean

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk

Makes sense. Kind of the same deal with the little hammer one. I just stick the thing in my bench vise when I have more than a couple to do.

Need one that functions like a wire stripper where it grabs the cable at the same time it crimps.

 

[smokeysevin]

Onboard air install

Parts Used:
Viair 6-Port Block (modified with 4 extra 1/8 npt ports)

Viair 92820: 6-Port Billet Manifold and Bracket (6) 1/4" NPT Female Ports - JEGS

Get the Best Performance with Viair 6-Port Billet Manifold and Bracket (6) 1/4" NPT Female Ports 92820 parts at JEGS. Shop Now at the Guaranteed Lowest Price!

www.jegs.com

Viair Sealed Pressure Switch 110/145psi

Viair 90227: Sealed Pressure Switch 110 PSI On / 145 PSI Off - JEGS

Get the Best Performance with Viair Sealed Pressure Switch 110 PSI On / 145 PSI Off 90227 parts at JEGS. Shop Now at the Guaranteed Lowest Price!

www.jegs.com

Viair Gauge

Viair 90085: Air Pressure Gauge 1-1/2" Diameter - JEGS

Get the Best Performance with Viair Air Pressure Gauge 1-1/2" Diameter 90085 parts at JEGS. Shop Now at the Guaranteed Lowest Price!

www.jegs.com

Viair Check Valve

Viair 92831: Check Valve 1/4" NPT Female Thread to 1/4" NPT Male Thread - JEGS

Get the Best Performance with Viair Check Valve 1/4" NPT Female Thread to 1/4" NPT Male Thread 92831 parts at JEGS. Shop Now at the Guaranteed Lowest Price!

www.jegs.com

MasterFlow MF1050 Tsunami Pump

MasterFlowAir

masterflowair.com

1/4npt - 1/4 hose push lock adapters

https://dirtyworks-kc.com/t/air-fittings

Job:
Installed new manifold onto the compressor and wired compressor with pressure switch to switchpros POS 8.

I had a weird t-manifold with hoses and bs off it but since I am getting in the habit of trying to do things properly, I bought a manifold and redid it. The little tsunami pump is pretty well made for the price, the head casting is junk though. It comes with non-standard ports and the casting is really thin pot metal. The original outlet port was some weird non-standard 1/4ish nptish but it got a small stress crack in near the end of the threads. I don't think this is a huge deal since I am running a check valve on the system but I didn't want the main pressure port to be screwed into that spot.

Since I needed a new outlet port, I pulled the gauge off and drilled and tapped that for a 1/4 npt fitting. That got a 90 degree push lock fitting tossed on it which connected to the manifold. It worked out nicely for hose routing and I have a new gauge installed on the pressurized side of the check valve. If the crack on the other fitting leaks, it just means that the pump loses pressure while the check valve holds pressure in the tank/manifold/system. Eventually I will probably swap this pump out for a nice 100% DC Viair pump anyways.

Sean

2 1/8 npt ports added for pressure switch and gauge

4 1/8 npt ports added for pressure switch and gauge

Pressure switch

Assembled Manifold (not how I actually used it)

Now, we need a bracket to mount this onto the compressor. The stock Viair bracket is in black, the silver one is the one I made to mount the manifold to the compressor.

Who wants some head shots?

Pistons with valve relief, just like a LS, 2 valves. Its cute

Assembled compressor monstrosity, the shrader valves are temporary since I am missing my 1/8npt plugs.

Nestled in place on the fender, attached with 4, m8 rivnuts with vibration isolating grommets on the compressor. The open port will become another air chuck somewhere on the truck.

Tank line and sweet Power Core filter

Tank location

Tank and Bag solenoids

 

[Kevinm]

Im not sure the temperature rating on that line you used coming off the compressor but it gets mighty hot. Hope you considered that

 

[smokeysevin]

Im not sure the temperature rating on that line you used coming off the compressor but it gets mighty hot. Hope you considered that

I am going to test it the way it is now and swap to a metal line in the event I need to. As the compressor comes from the factory, they have it setup the same way with a poly line.

Its something I considered but I am using what I have for now.

Sean

 

[smokeysevin]

I took the truck out for a drive today after getting the front diff breather on and the front diff filled. It felt fine up until about 60mph when I started getting a pretty bad vibration that picked up with speed. The hubs were unlocked and the vibration didn't change in 2wd or 4wd so I don't think it is the front drive train. I also did not touch the rear at all.

From the last time I drove it to now the following has been changed/added from my 2wd Tundra parts.

OE Tacoma Manual hub Spindles
NEW OE KOYO Wheel Bearings/seals
Aftermarket Manual Hub Hubs w/ new wheel studs
OE Aisin Hub Selectors
Total Chaos uniball adapters and misalignment spacers
OE Tundra cut Inner CV and Axles
Trail Gear High Angle CV Boot
Aftermarket DTA Manual Hub Outer CV
4Runner front 7.5 Differential w/4.56 and Limited Slip
OE Tundra Front Driveshaft
1" Diff Drop

Things I have checked:

Lug TQ (no difference)
Hub Position (locked/unlocked = no difference)
Transfer Case Position (2wd/4wd no difference)

Observations:

The wear pattern on the tires was pretty bad to start with and needs to be replaced but the balance was reasonable up to about 80mph before it started to vibrate. With the extra weight over the front end, the sidewalls are noticeably more bulged. Tire pressure was fine.

Since I swapped spindles and misalignment spacers, the alignment could be off. I have not checked yet and I need to.

Is there anything I am missing that could be causing the vibration?

In better news, there are no new pops, groans, grinding sounds, or extra drag so while it may be slightly premature, I am calling this a victory.

Sean

 

[Mrmrswelch]

Tires generally vibrate the faster you go given that they're not separated. Especially, if braking/throttle make no difference, then alignment/tires will probably be the source. If the tires are cupped on the inside tread and you have negative camber it will only make the vibes worse as speed increases. I was having a high speed vibe early in the AM until I replaced the Suspension, rotated the tires and had a local shop align the truck, now it's as smooth as.... well... a truck with no vibrations. Haha

 

[smokeysevin]

What is interesting about the vibration is that it is not shaking the steering wheel like it has when I have had balance issues previously. This feels much more like its vibrating the truck as if a u-joint is going out. As a preventative measure I will probably swap the rear u-joints out just for good measure. I have the parts already anyways.

Sean

 

[tennesseewj]

Did you remove the rear driveshaft during all your work? I've heard of people replacing them "upside down" and leading to balance issues

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

[smokeysevin]

Did you remove the rear driveshaft during all your work? I've heard of people replacing them "upside down" and leading to balance issues

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Nope, I did not touch anything behind the transfer case. The only thing I did on the transfer case was shift it into neutral so I could spin the front side drive flange when I was fitting the front driveshaft.

Sean

 

[smokeysevin]

Well that was a disaster. My original tundra 2wd shaft used 1310 u joints, the couble cardan on the 4wd shaft uses some kind of oddball toyota-**** u joint that I had to order. I found that out by trying to install a 1310 joint only to find out that the width of the assembly prevents the snap rings from seating. Its not off by much but since I am chasing vibrations, I have no intention of doing a hack job.

Because I did not do my homework on that before I took the driveshaft apart, my originally rwd, 4wd converted tundra is currently fwd...

Parts should be here next week, good thing I am not depending on the truck to empy out my storage unit or anything.

The driveshaft appears to be in decent shape, it had a major coating of road dust and grime which could have been the issue. The oe joints felt reasonably tight but were on the dry side. All of them are getting replaced now.

Self inflicted headaches are the worst.

Sean

 

[smokeysevin]

Fitting 295/75/16

Swapped my busted old duratracs for some new bfgs and decided to go up a size in the process. 4wp had them on sale so I got them ordered (took 4 days to arrive) then I waited 45 minutes after my appointment time before they started on my truck. 2 hours after I arrived they told me one of the 5 tires I ordered was missing and I would have to come back next week to get my spare...

I went from 285/75/16 to 295/75/16 and now it rubs even only being minimally taller and wider. I trimmed out the pinch weld on the cab which helped a little bit but it still needs more work. Part of this was a bad alignment but even once corrected, it still rubbed on the frame and at the cab corner. At full lock and stuff, the tire was contacting the cab at the front which is unacceptable. I don't have pictures of it but I ended up cutting and patching the cab floor enough that it should clear 35s in the future.

It also rubbed in the rear on the front corner of the bedside wheel well. Weirdly, the deaver g57s I have on there now put the wheel/tire slightly closer to the front of the wheel well than the stock springs did. I took this opportunity to pull/flare the bedsides by ~2 inches. This gets the tires to tuck nicely at stuff and eliminated the rubbing out back.

Anyone who has worked on yota's knows that they really like to stuff the inner fenders and body mounts as close to the tires as possible. I have run 285/75/16 tires on 16x8 with 4.25" backspacing wheels for the last 15 years with no issues even at full lock and full compression nothing rubbed. I got ballsy and decided to see what it would take to fit 295/75/16 on the same wheels since they are only slightly larger.

Apparently I was only ever about 0.25" from rubbing on everything. As it sat after that trim, it was too close for comfort without taking into account full lock and stuff. The pictures below are of an intermediate step and are not adequate for running 295/75/16s.

Stock, unmolested pinch weld

Partially trimmed pinch weld

More lock showing clearance

Frame rub location

Pinch weld, wheel well clearance

Front Frame rub location

At full lock and stuff, the tire was contacting the cab at the front which is unacceptable for a properly built rig. I don't have pictures of it but I ended up cutting and patching the cab floor enough that it should clear 35s in the future.

With the new bigger tires, the stock location of the tundra washer fluid bottle was begging for a tire to get pushed into it. I picked up a Dorman 603001 universal bottle from autozone for less than $10 and hung it off the inner fender. I mounted the stock yota pump by drilling out the universal nipple on the bottom of the tank to 0.825"ish and fitting the stock yota grommet and pump to the bottom. From there, I just routed the stock hose and wires back into the engine bay and plugged it in. Works like stock but the capacity is only about half what the oe tank was.

Trimmed Stock inner fenders

Donaldson Power Core dry filter and volant prefilter with bottle in position.

Mounted on inner fender.

Sean