Yes, it's a basket case. No, I was not on drugs when I built it... (2001 Toyota Tundra 2->4WD Build)
- Thread starter smokeysevin
- Start date
smokeysevin
Re-redoing things the third time
Almost like a different color forum has the same thread?
Different perspectives are a good thing, overlanding and going slow in the woods vs desert stuff and going fast. I gotta get as much help as I can with this thing lol.
Sean
smokeysevin
Re-redoing things the third time
Not yet, the rub on the cab was fixed by trimming the pinch weld and hammering the wheelwell. The corner formed by removing the pinch weld is a little close for my taste so it will get chopped out just to be safe.
The bigger issue for me is that the inner edge of the tires rub on the front of the frame under full lock. I can notch the frame (not ideal) or run different wheels or spacers. Temporarily I will be tossing on a set of spacers until my wallet gets a break.
Sean
Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
Kpack
Adventurer
I put spacers on the front on mine to keep the tires off the frame at full lock. They work for that purpose, and are fine for around town and such. But at highway speeds there is a noticeable shake in the steering wheel now, even after having all tires road-force balanced again. It's a little annoying. I might take them back off to see if it goes away. They would be nice to have when wheeling so I'm not hitting the frame, but most of the truck's life is on the road and a steering wheel shake is a nuisance.
smokeysevin
Re-redoing things the third time
Sounds about right, mine is the same way. Really, the rub does not limit my steering much at all so its not a major issue, I just want to do things properly so any rub is bad.
I have been running spacers in the rear of my truck for the last 3ish years because the 12 bolt truck rear end is narrower than I would like and I have no issues with them. The vibration I had before was absolutely the double cardan joint in the driveshaft. Even with the solid carrier it is smooth to 90+ now.
Realistically, I need new wheels with a bigger negative offset but that is not in the budget right now.
Sean
smokeysevin
Re-redoing things the third time
I have been running the winters shifter on my truck for the last 3ish months without major issue. The mounting bracket that holds the cable onto the trans pan has incorrect bolt spacing so it took a little rework but I used the rest of the kit without much fuss.
When I went to install the front driveshaft I fount that this was clearly made for a different route than what the tundra uses. With the factory winters shift lever, the entire cable assembly was in the way of the front driveshaft. Initially, I bent the winters lever but it cracked even with a very minor bend. To fix that, I took the stock tundra shift lever on the transmission and cut the indexing plate off the back, then welded on a piece of 3/16" steel which I drilled for the winters shift pin. Once I was happy that the trans still shifted gears and lined up with the gates, I welded the pin on and ground the back side flush for clearance. I then bent the arm and set the spacing on the lever to clear the edge of the trans pan.
Sean
Shift lever in park
Clearance after modification
Cable route near driveshaft.
When I went to install the front driveshaft I fount that this was clearly made for a different route than what the tundra uses. With the factory winters shift lever, the entire cable assembly was in the way of the front driveshaft. Initially, I bent the winters lever but it cracked even with a very minor bend. To fix that, I took the stock tundra shift lever on the transmission and cut the indexing plate off the back, then welded on a piece of 3/16" steel which I drilled for the winters shift pin. Once I was happy that the trans still shifted gears and lined up with the gates, I welded the pin on and ground the back side flush for clearance. I then bent the arm and set the spacing on the lever to clear the edge of the trans pan.
Sean
Shift lever in park
Clearance after modification
Cable route near driveshaft.
smokeysevin
Re-redoing things the third time
Cargo Management Track Install
10ish years ago I installed 2 strips of low profile unistrut on the floor of the bed to hold a spare tire mount. It worked pretty well, but the eye bolts I could find that fit the rack were 1/4-20 and bent really easily if you applied any side load at all. I had been planning to swap them out to something stronger for a while and finally came across the airline style l-track on us cargo control so I pulled the trigger and got 4 x 6' sticks and a bunch of quick lock rings. I also saw that they have a cool, double spot bolt down adapter which would let me hard bolt things like gas can racks or coolers to the bed floor.
Sean
Old stuff
Profile and spacing
Old Vs New
Hardware
Installed Hardware
Alternate View
Spacing
Install
First Install was the L track in the bed to replace my "low profile" ghetto fabulous unistrut quick rails. This worked fine for many years and I am glad I had some form of track in the bed but I was never happy with how high it stuck up. I also could never get the eye bolt pieces I made tight enough with my fingers so they would slip around. I also had to replace the eye bolts because any good ratchet strap would bend them.
Once that was done, I popped 2: 1-3/16" holes into the rear vertical walls of the truck bed so I could install a pair of blue sea systems locking cigarette lighter sockets. I plan to use them as an on demand light socket for fishing/working/camping with the potential of using them as charge ports for solar panels down the road.
Finally, since my fire extinguisher mount used the unistrut and was not spaced correctly for the new L-Track, I popped 3 holes into the bed wall and stuck a set of M8x1.25 Rivnuts in to hold it in place. I had planned to put 4 inserts in but found out after I started drilling the bolt pattern that the floor of the bed stake pocket was directly in line with one of the holes. Eventually I will get around to cutting that out and adding the final hole... or not.
Parts used:
4: 6' Aircraft style L-Track
24: M6 x 1.0 x 20mm Torx Flat Head Screws SS
24: M6 x 18mm OD Washers
24: 1/4 SS Fender Washers
24: Class 10 M6 x 1.0 Nyloc Flange Nut
2: Blue Sea Systems Locking Cigarette Lighter Sockets (need to wire)
3: M8x1.25 Rivnuts
Tools Used:
Milwaukee M18 Metal Cutting Circular Saw
Klutch 4x3 Band Chop Saw
Milwaukee M18 Impact Driver
Milwaukee M18 Hammer Drill
Milwaukee M12 Electric Ratchet
Porter Cable Belt/Disc Sander
Drill Bits
Torx Drivers
Sockets and Ratchet
Assistant:
Wife
Time Spent:
6 Hours
New Holes in Jeans:
4
New Holes in Tundra:
33
Sean
It's Parallel, stop looking at it.
Side tie-down and outlet.
I am pretty sure that extinguisher is recalled, I need to replace it. For the love of god, cut the damn hose clamp tails you monster.
Team Green
3 Bolts on a 4 bolt flange, seems legit.
Reason why there are only 3 bolts.
10ish years ago I installed 2 strips of low profile unistrut on the floor of the bed to hold a spare tire mount. It worked pretty well, but the eye bolts I could find that fit the rack were 1/4-20 and bent really easily if you applied any side load at all. I had been planning to swap them out to something stronger for a while and finally came across the airline style l-track on us cargo control so I pulled the trigger and got 4 x 6' sticks and a bunch of quick lock rings. I also saw that they have a cool, double spot bolt down adapter which would let me hard bolt things like gas can racks or coolers to the bed floor.
Sean
Old stuff
Profile and spacing
Old Vs New
Hardware
Installed Hardware
Alternate View
Spacing
Install
First Install was the L track in the bed to replace my "low profile" ghetto fabulous unistrut quick rails. This worked fine for many years and I am glad I had some form of track in the bed but I was never happy with how high it stuck up. I also could never get the eye bolt pieces I made tight enough with my fingers so they would slip around. I also had to replace the eye bolts because any good ratchet strap would bend them.
Once that was done, I popped 2: 1-3/16" holes into the rear vertical walls of the truck bed so I could install a pair of blue sea systems locking cigarette lighter sockets. I plan to use them as an on demand light socket for fishing/working/camping with the potential of using them as charge ports for solar panels down the road.
Finally, since my fire extinguisher mount used the unistrut and was not spaced correctly for the new L-Track, I popped 3 holes into the bed wall and stuck a set of M8x1.25 Rivnuts in to hold it in place. I had planned to put 4 inserts in but found out after I started drilling the bolt pattern that the floor of the bed stake pocket was directly in line with one of the holes. Eventually I will get around to cutting that out and adding the final hole... or not.
Parts used:
4: 6' Aircraft style L-Track
24: M6 x 1.0 x 20mm Torx Flat Head Screws SS
24: M6 x 18mm OD Washers
24: 1/4 SS Fender Washers
24: Class 10 M6 x 1.0 Nyloc Flange Nut
2: Blue Sea Systems Locking Cigarette Lighter Sockets (need to wire)
3: M8x1.25 Rivnuts
Tools Used:
Milwaukee M18 Metal Cutting Circular Saw
Klutch 4x3 Band Chop Saw
Milwaukee M18 Impact Driver
Milwaukee M18 Hammer Drill
Milwaukee M12 Electric Ratchet
Porter Cable Belt/Disc Sander
Drill Bits
Torx Drivers
Sockets and Ratchet
Assistant:
Wife
Time Spent:
6 Hours
New Holes in Jeans:
4
New Holes in Tundra:
33
Sean
It's Parallel, stop looking at it.
Side tie-down and outlet.
I am pretty sure that extinguisher is recalled, I need to replace it. For the love of god, cut the damn hose clamp tails you monster.
Team Green
3 Bolts on a 4 bolt flange, seems legit.
Reason why there are only 3 bolts.
Last edited:
smokeysevin
Re-redoing things the third time
Yeah, this was 4 sticks of 6' for $50 each. I think it was close to $300 all in. Not cheap but I end up hauling lots of random stuff so the extra locations were important.
The unistrut is probably 75% as effective for 25% the price but its 200% as frustrating and 50% taller.
My theme for this is "do it right the second time"
Sean
smokeysevin
Re-redoing things the third time
DIY Cheap Awning
Made a cheap easy awning for camping or whatever. The tarp I think was a free coupon for harbor freight, the rest was $20ish from lowes.
1 6.5'x5.5' hazard frito tarp
5 5'x0.5" conduit
3 0.5" conduit connectors
2 m8 rivnuts
2 m8 bolts
2 3/8 unc nuts
2 3/8 unc bolts
2 corkscrew ground anchors
20ft 550 hidden fart paracord
Mounts:
Drill 2 holes into the bed rail 66.5 inches on center and install m8 rivnuts
Legs:
Cut one of the conduit pieces in half and stuff one 3/8 unc nuts into one end of each section. Put 2 tack welds on each nut and set aside.
Cross bars:
Take one 5' section of conduit and install a coupler onto the end, then add another section of conduit to the end. Mark total length of 67.5" and cut to length. Mark 1" at each end and flatten in a vise. Mark and drill 3/8" diameter hole 0.5" from end of tube on flat section on each end. Remove sharp edges.
Assembly:
Connect 5' section and 2.5' section with conduit coupler to form leg, tighten to notgonnafallout ft-lbs. Repeat for other leg.
Take crossbar assembly and connect tarp with 3/8" bolts on either corner. Screw legs onto crossbar. Leave approximately 0.5" of unthreaded length.
Connect the other end of the tarp to the mounting points of the truck bed.
Slip paracord over exposed bolts on the legs and pull tight. Place and tie to ground anchors.
Enjoy shade.
Sean
Made a cheap easy awning for camping or whatever. The tarp I think was a free coupon for harbor freight, the rest was $20ish from lowes.
1 6.5'x5.5' hazard frito tarp
5 5'x0.5" conduit
3 0.5" conduit connectors
2 m8 rivnuts
2 m8 bolts
2 3/8 unc nuts
2 3/8 unc bolts
2 corkscrew ground anchors
20ft 550 hidden fart paracord
Mounts:
Drill 2 holes into the bed rail 66.5 inches on center and install m8 rivnuts
Legs:
Cut one of the conduit pieces in half and stuff one 3/8 unc nuts into one end of each section. Put 2 tack welds on each nut and set aside.
Cross bars:
Take one 5' section of conduit and install a coupler onto the end, then add another section of conduit to the end. Mark total length of 67.5" and cut to length. Mark 1" at each end and flatten in a vise. Mark and drill 3/8" diameter hole 0.5" from end of tube on flat section on each end. Remove sharp edges.
Assembly:
Connect 5' section and 2.5' section with conduit coupler to form leg, tighten to notgonnafallout ft-lbs. Repeat for other leg.
Take crossbar assembly and connect tarp with 3/8" bolts on either corner. Screw legs onto crossbar. Leave approximately 0.5" of unthreaded length.
Connect the other end of the tarp to the mounting points of the truck bed.
Slip paracord over exposed bolts on the legs and pull tight. Place and tie to ground anchors.
Enjoy shade.
Sean
Last edited:
smokeysevin
Re-redoing things the third time
Thanks for the kind words, its a work in progress but its a labor of love.
It has already proven to be useful, the under hood lights have been particularly helpful when doing wiring.
Sean
VanIsle_Greg
I think I need a bigger truck!
Cool build!