Yes, it's a basket case. No, I was not on drugs when I built it... (2001 Toyota Tundra 2->4WD Build)

[smokeysevin]

Bad Decisions 13

Fuel filter and flex fuel sensor install

I stole the stock fuel pump bulkhead fitting out of the sending unit and adapted it to my new harness so I could plug into the stock harness for the fuel level sending unit without cutting/splicing.

The flex fuel sensor and fuel filter were mounted to a plate and the plate was mounted to the stock crossmember. I had intended to use the stock tank connection on the send side and install the new filter inline but toyota uses a weird non-standard quick connect on the sending unit connection so I opted to instead remove the first half of the stock line and use an lines from the tank to the second half of the stock sending line.

Sean

 

[smokeysevin]

Bad Decisions 14

Vacuum/boost Block, Fuel Pressure Regulator Mount, Throttle fitup.

The rear portion of the block is boost referenced for the map sensor, fpr, and boost gauge if needed. The front half is vac referenced for the bypass valve and charcoal evap canister.

I changed the orientation of the front crossover line for the manifold so it goes behind the snout now but this is the gist of it.

Sean

 

[smokeysevin]

Bad decisions 15

I made a washer fluid reservoir/power steering reservoir holder, an intercooler reservoir holder, and intercooler pump bracker.

I need to trim the power steering lines a bit and get a real 90 for the intercooler res to pump line. The intercooler res could have been done better but I didn't want to remake it so I scabbed on some scrap. You can't see it when it is installed so I don't really care too much.

I wanted to mount the intercooler pump lower to get more head into the pump suction side but I was worried it is less than waterproof so I stuck it where it is. Hopefully it won't cavitate too much.

Plenty of room for a proper intake setup once I figure out how I want to do it.

Sean

 

[smokeysevin]

Bad decisions 16

Intercooler bracket fab.

Still have to make the straps to hold the cooler and trim the grille on the upper drovers side corner but the hard part is done. Plumbing is next.

Sean

 

[smokeysevin]

Bad Decisions 17

Hood latch, intercooler straps, and transmission cooler pre-install

I spent yesterday evening making sure the hood would close after some genious threw a giant intercooler heat exchanger in front of the radiator.

The hood latch fouled on the top of the intercooler, I had originally trimmed just the edge down but the hood was not closing properly so I had to shorten it by about 3/8". I then added a little tab to the latch so I could actually unlatch the hood. All done, its easier than stock imo.

While I was working on that, I cut the straps out to complete the intercooler hx mount. These just go across the front of the hx to keep it in place and keep it from sliding towards the passengers side. Overall, they came out decent.

I did have to cut/grind about an inch or so off the grille upper corner so the hood would actually be able to close all the way. A quick zip with an oscillating multitool and some die grinder butchery got it to close.

Last up, I built half of the new transmission cooler mount. This bolts in via 2 existing holes in the frame on the top of the passengers side frame rail. The bottom mount will require some drilling but as you can see, she ain't pristine. Eventually the frame will get replaced or fabbed from scratch but thats a problem for future Sean. This cooler will get 2 or 3 fans and a filter on the inlet. I am also planning to run a temp sensor either on the pan (I don't really want to drop it and weld it but that may be the best option) or on the send line directly behind the stock sensor on the feed to the new filter (nice and easy install) I will also be adding an exhaust heat shield and some firesleeve for the lines even though the fans should blow towards the exhaust.

Yes, the wires and air line are getting re-bundled and secured before the cooler gets bolted on for good...

Sean

 

[smokeysevin]

Bad decisions 18

Had to pull the blower back off again, I noticed it wasn't sitting flush on the gaskets and found that no matter what fitting I tried on the passengers side under manifold port, they all fouled on the water tube. So I plugged both ports and drilled two new 1/8npt ports on the drivers side of the manifold just before/above the intake ports, one for boost/map and the other for my IAT sensor. Its not an ideal location for either but at least the manifold fits.

I also finally found the pcv fitting for the stock sai port in the range rover tvs1900 blower inlet. Even better, its available as a 90. Its a dorman 15mm elbow. Pn 800-033.

Catch cans, trans cooler, and intercooler tubes are next.

Sean

 

[smokeysevin]

Bad decisions 19

Intercooler heat exchanger plumbing.

All 3/4" stainless tube and hps silicone piping. I need to fab the mounts for the tubes but I am pretty happy with how it has tuned out considering the bender I used was cheap and broke in the proceess.

I still need to fab the mounts for it and do end prep for the hoses.

Sean

 

[smokeysevin]

Bad decisions 20

Gauge fab and hardware

8gb rpi 4b+
Waveshare 12.3" display
13 channels of optoisolated level shift to pull factory io from the dash and a 4 channel relay to control extra io

Running ts dash it will pull info straight from the ms3 and let me tune if I want. Im working on the gauge display now but its not ready yet.

Sean

 

[VanIsle_Greg]

Your bad decisions > My bad decisions.

That will be pretty rad when done.

 

[smokeysevin]

Your bad decisions > My bad decisions.

That will be pretty rad when done.

If it ever gets done lol. Its been too long since I have gotten to drive it.

Most of my remaining electrical parts are scheduled to arrive today. I am hoping to clear most of that out in a few weeks. Then I have to do leak checks on everything, swap motor mounts, valve cover gaskets, alternator, and build an exhaust. All before I can tune it.

Sean

 

[smokeysevin]

Bad Decisions 21

Bulkhead mount to connect my hd30 connectors for power/sensors.

Sean

 

[smokeysevin]

Bad-er Decisions 22 redoing work because I can't count pins correctly.

I had used the 18 series hd30 connectors because I thought I had enough contacts but my list was incomplete. So for my hubris, I had to cut a big chunk out and poorly weld in a band, and plate, then replace the connectors with the 24 series hd30 connectors. Its ugly but no one will see it once installed. I'll own up to my shame here though.

Sean

 

[smokeysevin]

Bad Decisions 23

I had some bussed contacts cut from 0.040 copper so I can avoid splices on the power feeds to the internal fuse box. I have one power from each relay coming to the main buss bars, then jumpers to one side of the fuse, then wires out to the devices.

I messed up the spacing on negative bus bar for the interior fuse box and now I have to reorder it.

These little gep relay/fuse boxes are nice and compact and reasonably cheap. The relay one will go under the hood next to the battery and has a positive and negative bus bar for the relay triggers so it can work with high side or ground switching on each relay depending on source.

All these will get coated with conformal coating or similar on the non-contact surfaces so if they ever bounce around in the case, they don't immediately set my ******** on fire.

Sean

 

[smokeysevin]

Bad decisions 24

Wideband stealth mount.

Sean