Yet another 109 build Thread

Snagger

Explorer
Those Toro overdrives are quite rare and very hard to find parts for. They're pretty similar to the Fairey, but don't have any common parts, I think. They're pretty good if in good condition, so hopefully you have a good one. It'll howl when engaged - that's normal. Just keep an eye on its oil level and replace that oil regularly.
 

aka rover

Adventurer
Those Toro overdrives are quite rare and very hard to find parts for. They're pretty similar to the Fairey, but don't have any common parts, I think. They're pretty good if in good condition, so hopefully you have a good one. It'll howl when engaged - that's normal. Just keep an eye on its oil level and replace that oil regularly.

Im hoping because mine is new and has no miles on it if I take care of it I should be good for quite awhile.

Will post more progress in a few days have the rear axle going in with my new springs we will see how it sits.
 

aka rover

Adventurer
Here is what I have been up to,I ended up going with custom national springs they are 3" over stock and I had them move the spring pin back 1" so its now a 110 haha.

The springs look great and appear to be well built and fit like a glove. I have the tank out and ready to go back in the doors are hung the drive lines are done and the rear installed the front is ready to go in. The brakes are blead and ready for the road, seats are in etc. I have been busy with life so haven't had as much time as I would have hoped.
 

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aka rover

Adventurer
Heres a few more pics! I found a Rover shift knob with the same shift pattern as the T176:smiley_drive:

Here is a pic of the axle moved back to center of the wheel well, I think it looks much better and I flexed it a bit and it will not get even close to rubbing. I installed defender door seals and wing top protectors since I will be needing to stand on them at times. I will be installing a pick and shovel on them in the future. Ikes bumper is installed and I found a nice old 8274 dated jan 79 to install on it.

The 235s are looking pretty small on the 109 and can't wait to try out the 255/85/16 BFG km2s .

My next steps on suspension will be to lower bump stops and install shocks OMEs.
 

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Gonzo

New member
Ed, those springs are just so purdy. I'm a big fan of National Spring and I'm so happy to see your rig sitting on proper quality leaf packs! Did you end up shipping them old springs or did they have the config on file as a starting point? Love the shift knob - slick!

Keep up the great work!

Brian
 

aka rover

Adventurer
Ed, those springs are just so purdy. I'm a big fan of National Spring and I'm so happy to see your rig sitting on proper quality leaf packs! Did you end up shipping them old springs or did they have the config on file as a starting point? Love the shift knob - slick!

Keep up the great work!

Brian

Brian, they didn't have anything on file so I worked with Ben at National and gave him all the measurements he needed to build the spring pack. I gave him all the specs and then modified them to my taste IE moved the axle pin back etc.

He now has the specs for a 109 rear spring and can build stock springs or a lift spring like I had done. mine are for constant load of about 2300 lbs total on the rear axle, I got these numbers from a friend who weighed the rear of his 109 full of camp gear and expo gear. so empty she sits a little butt up :Wow1: but the springs are pretty flexy and should sit nice with a load on them.

That looks great. Thanks for the updates.

Thanks
 

JSBriggs

Adventurer
LT95 shift knob! Nice touch.

What is that on the side of the seat box? Battery cut off? Winch control?

-Jeff
 

Jim K in PA

Adventurer
Great rig, build, and effort. Love the Series "110". Just a small concern - I see you hard piped your brake lines to the rear calipers. Just watch closely for cracking at the fitting where it enters the caliper. Just the mass of the loop of line is enough to vibrate the line, and the stress riser is at the double flare in the fitting. If you don't want to/can't use a rubber transition line, add a few pieces of rubber fuel line to the outside of the hard line to attenuate (maybe) the vibrations.

Keep the pictures coming!
 

aka rover

Adventurer
LT95 shift knob! Nice touch.

What is that on the side of the seat box? Battery cut off? Winch control?

-Jeff
I dig the knob as well

Yes its a battery switch for dual baterys, I have a webasto diesel fired heater and I wanted to be able to isolate a battery while camping for heater and electronics.
 

aka rover

Adventurer
Great rig, build, and effort. Love the Series "110". Just a small concern - I see you hard piped your brake lines to the rear calipers. Just watch closely for cracking at the fitting where it enters the caliper. Just the mass of the loop of line is enough to vibrate the line, and the stress riser is at the double flare in the fitting. If you don't want to/can't use a rubber transition line, add a few pieces of rubber fuel line to the outside of the hard line to attenuate (maybe) the vibrations.

Keep the pictures coming!

I thought about this as well but took a quick look under my Defender 90s rear brakes and just copyed the way the factory ran them on it. So I am thinking it will be ok, here's a pic of the rear lines on my 90.
 

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Gonzo

New member
Hi Ed,

Land Rover uses a fixed caliper and so running the hardline right directly into the caliper is the norm. Disco's, Range Rovers and, as you pointed out, Defenders came this way from the factory. Vehicles with floating calipers require the rubber jump hoses as the caliper moves each time the brakes are applied. This is not the case with your rig. You're solid.

Brian
 

Snagger

Explorer
Hard brake lines to the callipers are standard for LRs. I've never had any trouble with that on my RRC, 109 (drums or discs makes no difference to brake line vibration) or on the Lightweight. I've never heard of anyone else having such a problem either. The only problem other than rare instances of impact damage is corrosion, which sleeving with rubber hose is only going to exacerbate.
 

Mercedesrover

Explorer
Do yourself a favor and buy a roll of copper/nickle brake line and form and flair them yourself. Good stuff, easy to work with and it doesn't corrode like normal brake line.
 

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