Yet another hard-sided popup build thread— (Alu-Cab ModCAP platform)

Alphamacaroon

New member
Thought I would start a build thread to document my latest project— a mid-size hard-sided popup camper inspired by the Sigma, Tago, and Hiatus campers.

Background
I've been overlanding since the early 90's back when we called it "going on an adventure in your car, finding the nearest campground, then driving as absolutely far away as you can from it to set up camp". My first real expedition was a 2 month trip from Colorado Springs, CO to Prudhoe Bay, AK shortly after graduating high school. Myself and two school buddies wanted to see how far north we could get in North America purely by road, and Prudhoe Bay was that place.

Our expedition truck was a heavily modified Nissan pickup truck. By heavily modified, I mean that we found a truck bed canopy and two rear seats from a Subaru Brat in a junkyard and bolted them to the pickup bed. Since there were three of us, someone always had to ride "Brat in the Back". There was no room for us to sleep in the pickup bed, so most camping was done cowboy style on the rough ground (we were still young and pliable then). That is until we hit a certain latitude and the mosquitoes found innovative ways of getting into our sleeping bags even when fully mummified— after that we pitched a tent every night. From that point on the mosquitos stopped bothering us when we slept, but still managed to find their way into everything we cooked, so we just considered them part of our diet.

Stories from that expedition could probably warrant its own series of posts, but it hopefully gives you a little background for why I'm taking on this build. I want to be able to do trips like I used to when I was younger, but my 40ish year old bones just aren't happy camping on the ground anymore.

Requirements
In order to get my wife to let me build this thing I had to convince her it'd be something she'd want live in for at least a couple days at a time. So my theme for this build is "Tacticool on the outside, resort spa on the inside". But let's be honest, it's not all her doing— I'm not a big fan of sparse tactical interiors with molle panels for wallpaper and axes and traction plates for pictures. When I'm outside the camper I can do all the "roughing it" I want. But when I'm inside, I want to feel pampered.

Beyond the tacticool spa theme, the most important things to me are reliability, strength, and above all else, minimal weight. Of course it's going to be almost impossible to accomplish all three, but I'm going to do my best.

In the spirit of reliability and strength, very early on I decided I wanted to have hard walls on my popup. Having never owned a canvas popup I don't have much first-hand knowledge of what it's like to own one, but I've just seen too many posts online with folks constantly dealing with rips and tears and water intrusion. I know many people will also swear by how great they are too, but it's just not for me.

When figuring out how I wanted to accomplish folding hard walls I knew origami would be the inspiration. Originally I was inspired by how cardboard milk cartons fold, and after a bunch of research I found that a number of people out there have come up a great solution (with minor variations) to the problem. As I mentioned above, Sigma, Tago, and Hiatus have the best overall approach in my opinion— I'll go into more detail why in later posts. I understand that Hiatus has a US patent (although likely not defensible if challenged) on the design, but I have no current plans to commercialize this, so hopefully they won't mind a one-off build with a similar (but not the same) design. Hiatus seems to have a great product, and I probably would have purchased one from them if it met some specific needs (most important one being budget).

The Alu-Cab Foundation
As I was planning out my build I decided that I wanted to do minimal metal fabrication, so that meant that I would probably have to start with a pre-existing truck bed canopy as a base to the popup. Unfortunately most canopies have fixed roofs, so it would mean that I would have to permanently maim and behead a beautiful canopy in order to build the popup walls on top of it. Preferably I'd still like to have a nice and usable truck canopy in the future if I decide that I no longer want to camp in it. The other reason I like this is that it will likely take me a few months to build this thing completely out, so at least I have a roof over my head if I decide I want to do a couple of small camping trips before the popup section is built.

So after a lot of searching for "modular truck canopies" I found the Alu-Cab ModCAP. This thing was literally made for this project. It has the ability to start with a hard roof, then take it off and bolt on a popup tent when you feel like it. Alu-Cab already makes two different sizes of beautiful tents you can mount on the base, but they are both canvas and so they don't fit my requirements.

The other thing that really set the ModCAP as a winner for me was the configuration of their rear door. Because it replaces the pickup tailgate with a fully sealing door, it minimizes dust intrusion— hard to feel pampered if you are coughing up dust. I also like the idea that the rear door can carry a full size spare (up to 33" I believe) which opens up some additional storage room in the spare tire bay.

Lastly, the ModCAP being aluminum and built by a reputable company felt like it fit the bill in terms of reliability, strength, and low weight.

Next post...
Alu-Cab ModCAP install and modifications.
 
Last edited:

Alphamacaroon

New member
Phase 1: Alu-Cab ModCAP Install
One of the other reasons I opted for the ModCAP was its lead-time— being measured in weeks, not months or years like most other folks in this industry. I ordered it through ok4wd and a short few weeks later it arrived at my local shipping terminal (they don't do residential delivery). From there I had a local moving company deliver it to my house. Because the ModCAP is so light, they didn't even need a liftgate, just a dolly and hand carry the parts down a ramp.

Here is the finished (phase 1) product:

IMG_3634-2.jpeg
IMG_3630-2.jpeg

Install Notes
Alu-Cab build quality seems pretty stellar in my opinion— especially for something that is produced in such quantity. There were a couple of small issues, but they shipped replacement parts extremely quickly with little or no questions asked. They seem to really stand behind their product.

The installation instructions are another story— they are horrible. But I honestly wasn't expecting much, because even though you can order a ModCAP directly from the main US distributor (ok4wd) they really prefer you to order it through a local reseller and have them install it. I have a lot of experience building and modifying vehicles, so I was able to struggle through it, but a novice DIYer would have some trouble.

Not only are the instructions extremely minimal, but in some cases they are just wrong. For example, they mention you should mount the canopy on your truck bed (the "bin" in South African parlance) first. Then later on there are instructions to install a filler plate near the back of the truck cab by drilling and riveting some holes. Seemed easy when I read through the instructions the first time, but you realize (much too late) that it's impossible to get a drill or a rivet gun into the tiny space when the canopy is on the bed. So I had to completely remove it, do the drilling and riveting, then mount it back on the bed— no small task.

Regardless of a few hiccups with the instructions, I was able to install it in about 5 evenings.

Stuff I don't like
There isn't much on this list, but I was not happy to discover that the ModCAP doesn't allow me to take up the full 6' of my Tacoma long-bed. The reason I bought a long-bed in the first place was that I wanted every ounce of space I could get for my camper. It turns out that all ModCAPs are essentially built for a short-bed, then there is a filler plate (see previous comments on that) which allows you to put it on long-bed and waterproof it. It feels a little bit like false advertising, but I understand why they do it that way (Mod means modular) and to be honest, the rest of the product is so good that I can overlook it. And while I do lose a little interior space above the pickup bed rails, I still have the full 6' in the bed and it'll be a good spot to put a water tank or batteries. It also allows for some exterior space for mounting some slim things (like rotopax cans) between the cab and canopy. Not all bad.

Water/dustproofing
There are lots of small and large spaces that will need to be sealed with the ModCAP– just like anything else. ModCAP calls for Sikaflex and a small amount of butyl tape, but I went the opposite direction— mostly butyl tape and very little Sika. I would love to be able to return the pickup to original condition if/when I decide I'm done overlanding, so I don't want anything to be a pain in the ass to remove in the future.

I'm somewhat new to modern overlanding building methods, but I have to admit I'm a little perplexed how SikaFlex has become the WD-40 of builds— just spray a little SikaFlex on it to fix any problem. I feel there must have been some influencer who chatted it up once, and ever since then it's been the "go to" for anything and everything waterproofing. I've done a lot of waterproofing in car building over the years and unless you are using the sealant as an adhesive as well, nothing beats butyl tape (in my experience at least) in terms of longevity and function when it comes to waterproofing. Would be curious to hear other similar and differing opinions on this. And don't get me wrong, SikaFlex is amazing stuff, but it's amazing stuff for a very small set of problems— when you want to seal and adhere in one shot. Which leads me to...

Interesting stuff
One thing that was really interesting and surprising to me was how they "welded" the aluminum in the canopy. I've been reading a lot about aluminum trailer and canopy builds and the consensus seems to be that welding every inch of every seam is not a good idea and will just lead to cracking down the road. So I was curious how Alu-Cab did it in theirs. In their case, the aluminum skin is only welded in a few small places, mostly just a small portion of a corner, and the rest of the seam is SikaFlexed. As in my previous comments above, this seems like one of those areas where SikaFlex shines— provides adhesion much like a weld, but because it's flexible it won't crack as easily over time. I suspect this also provides some additional weight savings.

Odds and Ends
Because I lost my tailgate, I also lost my rear view camera. And because the ModCAP doesn't have a cab portal window, your rearview mirror becomes relegated to a fuzzy dice hanger. So without any mods, your rear visibility with an installed ModCAP is effectively null. There are some nice aftermarket camera relocation mounts for the ModCAP but almost all of them assume you are putting one of their tents on the roof. Because of the way my popup walls are designed, I'm not going to have any room to mount it above the spare tire in the rear, so I'm stuck coming up with another solution.

The solution I came up was to relocate the camera to the inside of spare tire mount, much like the one on my FJ Cruiser. I looked at a bunch of aftermarket options out there, but they all seemed to be overly expensive, or designed for Jeeps and Broncos. So I knew I was probably going to have to DIY, but because I wanted to keep metal fabrication to a minimum, I had to get a little creative.

I ended up finding the perfect little aluminum food storage container on Amazon.

81H4D9TDX0L._AC_SX679_.jpg

I know you're probably giggling right now, but hopefully the results speak for themselves...

IMG_3645.jpeg
IMG_3648.jpeg

I just had to drill two holes— one to mount the container via the existing adjustment bolt through the center of the hub, and another for the camera wire and mount— and that was it. Minimal fabrication for a light and sturdy camera mount that doesn't look too shabby IMO.

Next post...
Building the hard-sided popup frame and walls.
 
Last edited:

Alphamacaroon

New member
Let's talk about the popup design. Here is a quick video of how it will (hopefully) eventually work:


While this design may be somewhat familiar to many of the hard sided popups I mentioned in my first post, I'll take a moment to highlight a few of the features that might be slightly different— although it's hard to say because I've never seen any of the other ones in real life.

Low Profile L-Channel Frame

I remember driving through a wind storm one time and seeing a pickup swerving dangerously down the road with a large camper shell. I realized I never wanted to have an experience like that, so it was then and there that I decided I wanted my truck bed camper to have the absolute minimum cross-sectional area.

Many of my early designs had big beefy t-slot extruded aluminum frames that were tall enough to fit a nice thick 4+ inch mattress when the walls were folded. But when you add that to the thickness of the folded walls and roof (my roof and walls will be 1" thick), you end up with roof section that is around 8" in height when folded down. While 8" of height on top of the existing canopy is not exactly chonky, I wanted to see if I could cut that down as much as possible. Not to mention, those big beefy t-slot beams weren't exactly cheap or lightweight. So in the end I decided on creating a very simple aluminum L-channel frame that I could bolt directly to the ModCAP top.

Here are a few pictures of the frame mounted to the top of the ModCAP:

IMG_3656.jpeg IMG_3665.jpeg

The frame will be bolted to the top of the ModCAP in much the same way their factory popup tents are, by utilizing the t-slot extrusion built into the canopy itself. Originally I had planned on bolting the frame to the canopy with roughly 10-15 bolts, but when I consulted the Alu-Cab fitment instructions for their popup tent I saw that they use 40-50 bolts!!! At first I thought they were crazy, but then quickly decided that they probably knew a hell of lot more than I did, so in the end I decided to go with 40 bolts (10 on each of the 4 sides). With all that holding power I now suspect the pickup bed would come off the truck frame long before the roof would 😂

You might also notice that the frame hangs out quite a ways over the pickup cab— the frame is almost exactly 10 foot long. The reason for this is that I still wanted to have a fair amount of standing room in the cabin even when the bed was fully open. Stay tuned for future posts to see how I will address strengthening the overhang.

So now we have a nice low-profile frame, but how the heck am I going to fit a 4" mattress up there?

Folding Bed Frame

If you watched the video, you'll see that I've devised a way to store the mattress in three different positions.

1. When the top is in the folded down/driving position, the bed will fold in half, and then rotated backwards into the roof of the canopy/cabin area.

Screenshot 2025-06-05 at 10.30.45 PM.png
2. When the top is opened up and you are hanging out in the cabin before sleeping, the bed will remain folded in half, but will be rotated towards the front overhang.
Screenshot 2025-06-05 at 10.33.59 PM.png

3. Then when you are ready to sleep, the bed frame will be completely unfolded. You should still have plenty of room to get out of the bed, then stand up in and exit the camper even when the bed is completely unfolded. Note that all of this is currently designed and dimensioned around a Hest dually RTT mattress at 94" inches long, so there should be plenty of room up there.

Screenshot 2025-06-05 at 10.35.17 PM.png
The following picture should give you a better idea of how the bed frame will be built. There will be one continuous piano hinge that attaches the entire bed frame to the canopy frame, then another offset hinge that will allow the mattress itself to be folded. The frame will be built out of aluminum and I'm still deciding how I want to support the mattress in the middle, but I'm leaning towards aluminum wire mesh at the moment (very light and breathable).
Screenshot 2025-06-05 at 10.36.30 PM.png

Overlapping Wall Sides

Another benefit to the low-profile L-channel frame is that it does double duty as a water gutter. While I do plan on utilizing waterproof hinges for the folding sections, I also want to use gravity for some help to prevent water ingress— like a shingle.

This is a view of the right hand folding wall as viewed from the back of the canopy with the front and back walls removed for clarity.

So in the off-chance that a waterproof hinge becomes compromised, you'll see that due to the way the walls overlap the L-channel, water should not be able to ingress into the interior (assuming the truck is shiny-side-up).

I noticed that this seems to be a feature incorporated into the Sigma design, but doesn't appear (at least from what I can tell) to be a feature in the Hiatus design.

That's all for now. The next posts will detail more of the building of the hard sided walls.
 
Last edited:

Shawn686

Observer
Looks great I am thinking of doing some thing similar

Out of curiosity what is the inside left to right width of the of the bed you are going to end up with? Sorry if I missed it

Shawn
 

Alphamacaroon

New member
Today I'm going to talk about wall panels, and hoping some others out there can give me feedback and advice.

Design Goals
The walls of this camper are going to be the most important feature so I want to make sure I do it right. Here are my basic design goals (most of them will be pretty obvious):
  1. Total cost to build or source the panels: less than $1,000.
  2. Lightweight
  3. Strong
  4. Waterproof
  5. 1" thick
  6. Good insulation properties
  7. Easy to source
Obvious Choices

FRP Panels

Seems to be almost impossible to source with any regularity, and super expensive. carbon-core.com seems like the most reliable source, but because of the length of my walls, I will need larger than 4x8 sheets and in order to do that I will need to order a minimum of 500 square feet. Plus I reached out to them with a few questions and their responses were completely unhelpful and made me think they are lacking in customer support.

If anyone has a source for 1" thick panels in lengths up to 10 feet, please let me know!

DIY XPS and Fiberglass/Canvas/Carbon Panels

I've done enough fiberglass prep work over the years on cars, and I just can't bring myself to do it anymore. Too many bad memories of sanding fiberglass in the the hot sun for days on end. Never say never, but I'm going to try to avoid this if I can.

Not so Obvious Choices

DIY Corrugated Plastic Composite Panels

I did some experiments a month or two ago laying up composites of corrugated plastic panels and the results are here https://forum.expeditionportal.com/...d-plastic-panel-composite-experiments.247688/. I think the idea is still relatively sound, but there are enough doubts about their long-term durability that I think I will probably not go this route.

GoBoard Waterproof Backer Board
I saved this one for last because, crazy enough, right now it seems to be the front-runner. https://www.jm.com/en/goboard/goboard-tile-backer-board/.

If you're not familiar with GoBoard, you can likely go check it out at your nearest Lowes store, but it is essentially used as backer board for tiled showers. Now at first I would have never considered using this because tile backer board is usually extremely heavy, but in one of my recent visits to the hardware store I stumbled upon it and was blown away by how light and strong it is.

GoBoard is made up of polyiso foam covered by a layer of fiberglass reinforced material (not 100% sure of exact composition of the skin), so in many ways it seems to be similar to FRP panels, except that it isn't gel coated and so the surface is relatively rough.

The main issue is that the thickest board available is 1/2" and it comes in 3x5" sheets, so I will have sandwich layers together to create larger 1" sheets. I did some initial testing by joining two sheets together with Titebond III wood glue and the results are super promising.

Here are the reasons I really like the idea:
  • My napkin calculations say the total weight of the panels will be slightly heavier than similar sized FRP panels, but not by much.
  • They are inherently waterproof
  • I can probably build all the walls in the camper for the price of a single 4x8 FRP panel.
  • I can easily source them from my local Lowes store
  • They are waterproof
  • Polyiso foam has 20-30% better insulation than XPS (at least in my limited research)
Here are some of my remaining concerns:
  • I'm not 100% sure how their strength compares to traditional RV FRP panels (because I don't have an FRP panel to compare it against), but I would venture to say that the GoBoard panels are probably stiffer and thus more prone to cracking. This is evidenced by the fact that they recommend you cut them by scoring with a utility blade and cracking it. But once two pieces are laminated together it seems to largely be a non-issue.
  • Because the surface is extremely rough, I'm going to have to figure out a way to finish it. Will this add a bunch of weight? The nice part about the rough finish is that it seems to hold paint very well.
  • Are there going to be any problems with UV light?
  • I've only laminated a very small 2x6 inch test piece and I can't break it in half even if I try with all my might, but will this strength scale up to larger pieces?
  • Titebond III is the glue I've chosen to bond the panels together because it's cheap, readily available, and extremely strong. But is this going to last over time? Maybe I should be looking for a glue that is more flexible and less stiff?
As it stands right now my plan is to do the lay up the panels like the following, starting from exterior layer to interior layer:
  1. Light coating of spray-on bed liner
  2. 1/2" thick GoBoard Panel
  3. Titebond III
  4. 1/2" thick GoBoard Panel
  5. RV interior paneling or wallpaper
The edges of the panels will then be covered in aluminum c-channel bonded with SikaFlex. Here are a few pictures of my 2x6" sample piece which weighs roughly 40 grams without the aluminum:

IMG_3668.jpeg
(I know it looks like the panel is delaminating on the right side, but that's just some paint that settled on my crappy knife cut)

IMG_3667.jpeg

I'm interested to hear what others think about this method. I'm sure many will recommend I go a more traditional route because it's tried and true, but unless you have solutions to the problems I mentioned earlier about those routes, I'd really like to understand more about the obvious (or not obvious) reasons this route could fail. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
189,455
Messages
2,917,158
Members
232,261
Latest member
ilciclista
Top