Newbie Montero SR Owner

[SoCalMonty]

What does it take to add a second trans cooler? What fluid would you use from Royal Purple? I have a '84 245 Volvo with the 2.1L turbo. What engine was in the 850? 2.3?

It doesn't take anything, really...source one and plumb it in series! With the Montero coolers, it's just a male barb coming off the coolers so that makes it easy. You can pop another one inline with the first. For some other cars, however, the plumbing is female metric threads that makes it difficult (expensive) to find barb adapters or compression fittings. I am using RX7 (13B) coolers on the 850 and the adapters weren't cheap...it was something like female M18x1.5 to AN8.

850 is a 2.3L 10V 5 cyl, yes. You would have loved my old 244 sedan...ran in the 12's and looked stock.



I either use this, or Amsoil Racing Synthetic...

 

[WorldTraveler]

It doesn't take anything, really...source one and plumb it in series! With the Montero coolers, it's just a male barb coming off the coolers so that makes it easy. You can pop another one inline with the first. For some other cars, however, the plumbing is female metric threads that makes it difficult (expensive) to find barb adapters or compression fittings. I am using RX7 (13B) coolers on the 850 and the adapters weren't cheap...it was something like female M18x1.5 to AN8.

850 is a 2.3L 10V 5 cyl, yes. You would have loved my old 244 sedan...ran in the 12's and looked stock.

View attachment 151350

I either use this, or Amsoil Racing Synthetic...

View attachment 151351

Nice Dude. Yeah. That 244 is sick. My buddy has a 242 that is insane. He has the 2.3L 4 cylinder with the 16valve head swap and bigger turbo. He has close to 380hp I'm pretty sure. Thanks for the input on the Trans cooler though. That's the only thing I've been weary on with the Montero, was the tranny. I'll definitely be looking into that.

 

[off-roader]

Nice Dude. Yeah. That 244 is sick. My buddy has a 242 that is insane. He has the 2.3L 4 cylinder with the 16valve head swap and bigger turbo. He has close to 380hp I'm pretty sure. Thanks for the input on the Trans cooler though. That's the only thing I've been weary on with the Montero, was the tranny. I'll definitely be looking into that.

The transmissions probably the strongest item in your entire drivetrain. I'm on my 5th Montero and all my rigs have had 200k miles plus without EVER requiring a transmission repair. My 96 SR has over 275k on the original transmission without as much a hiccup...

 

[WorldTraveler]

The transmissions probably the strongest item in your entire drivetrain. I'm on my 5th Montero and all my rigs have had 200k miles plus without EVER requiring a transmission repair. My 96 SR has over 275k on the original transmission without as much a hiccup...

Also good to know! Thanks.

 

[WorldTraveler]

Battery Update!

Okay, it's been a little while, but here's a little update.

I had bought a Yellow Top Optima through Interstate at my work (Toyota Dealer). Shortly after buying it (2-weeks) went to go start up, and it was dead beyond belief. I threw the trickle charger on it overnight, but it wasn't coming back, even with a fully charged 12V in-line with it. I figured I may have left a dome light on or something, but no. Come to find out by using my multimeter I had a parasitic draw of about 7 amps with ignition off, due to something with my door locks. So, I cut the circuit to the locks by pulling the fuse, so no more draw. Luckily, Interstate warrantied my Yellow top, and they ended up talking me into upgrading to their newest battery, basically their version of the Odyssey batteries. It's an Interstate MT-7 AGM. Comes with a 3-Year Free Replacement! I'm not real knowledgable with the Battery terminology, but the guy made it sound pretty ************. I haven't checked into exactly why the door locks were drawing power, but that's the next task. Anyone else ever run into this?



Here's the battery!

 

[nwoods]

That is a great battery. The door lock soleniod is probably bad. Mine is too, but it only wiggs out when I lock or unlock the doors (it REALLY likes to lock them). Those solenoids are very expensive at the dealer. A little cheaper online (ebay or RockAuto.com), but I have not bought one or replaced mine yet.

 

[off-roader]

One thing I'll caution you on with regards to your transmission.... Be safe. Just use Mitsu or Hyundai fluid. It's not worth the problems to go with a premium ATF like royal purple especially since flushes are done so infrequently. Someone on 4x4wire thought he could use Mobil 1 ATF on his gen 1 transmission. He was wrong and had to replace his transmission which was substantially cheaper than rebuilding it. Unless RP will warranty your transmission, I'd stay away from it. It's just not worth it.

 

[WorldTraveler]

One thing I'll caution you on with regards to your transmission.... Be safe. Just use Mitsu or Hyundai fluid. It's not worth the problems to go with a premium ATF like royal purple especially since flushes are done so infrequently. Someone on 4x4wire thought he could use Mobil 1 ATF on his gen 1 transmission. He was wrong and had to replace his transmission which was substantially cheaper than rebuilding it. Unless RP will warranty your transmission, I'd stay away from it. It's just not worth it.

For Sure. Thanks. I already bought the factory fluid, so I'm definietly going use it. I figure you can't go wrong there.

 

[hike2fish]

Just picked up a 95 SR newbie as well, 138k sitting in an OH farm yard, going to take some work to bring it back on the road.

 

[hike2fish]

 

[WorldTraveler]

Just picked up a 95 SR newbie as well, 138k sitting in an OH farm yard, going to take some work to bring it back on the road.

Nice, Man! Looks great. I wish I had white.

 

[nwoods]

Nice, Man! Looks great. I wish I had white.

x2

 

[WorldTraveler]

PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE!!!

TIMING BELT JOB & MORE!

Alright. So, I'm prepping myself to dig into this bad boy. Trying to get some peoples opinions on parts for doing this.
Here's my parts list so far.

Timing Belt
Water Pump
Timing Belt Pulleys
Tensioner
Updated Crank Bolt
Valve Cover Gaskets
Spark Plugs
Tube Seals
Cam Seals
Crank Seal
Valve Stem Seals
PCV Valve. Is there two?
Drive Belts
Any necessary pulleys for drive belts?

Probably missing some things.

Any additions/recommendations please.

What's the deal with the new lower intake plenum? I'm seeing talk about there being an updated part available. What's the difference?

 

[mapper]

I just went through all this on my gen 2.5, well actually I paid someone else to do it. Couple things:

-I'd add cleaning/re-bleeding or replacing the valve lash adjusters (VLA). This is a relatively inexpensive part that may be just fine. Mine made no noise before the job. After the job my motor was ticking badly. I was very unhappy as I'm not sure how long I want to keep this car and I, personally, would never buy a car that sounded like it did. The mechanic attempted to "bleed" them, but was unsuccessful. Ultimately he needed to go back and replace them. Maybe it isn't as prevalent an issue on the DOHC motors but on the SOHC motors I believe I read that an updated VLA with a larger bleed hole was implemented half way through the 98 model year. Mine is a 98 and I don't know if my original bits were the updated version or not.

-Double check with your mitsu dealer on the proper torque setting for the updated crank bolt. There are a lot of anecdotal stories about getting this wrong and damaging the crank position sensor as a result. For my Gen 2.5 dealer parts guy and mitsu tech said to torque to factory spec minus 2 ft/lbs. I left the work to my mechanic.

-Double check you have your crank properly positioned in regard to timing marks, the woodruff key and the locating pin. I forget the nitty gritty details but apparently it is easy to mess this up and then your crank pulley will not properly seat and will spin itself on the crank causing damage to crank and pulley. Do some research on this and you'll find the details.

-Finally, I believe your DOHC motor also has the "butterfly" valve on the lower intake plenum. This is what can fail and get "ingested" into those motors. I learned this when researching the purchase of a Montero. Someone else will have to chime in on the best way to update/fix/mitigate that hazard...or search for it, I know it is written about extensively.

Good luck. It's a lot of work but the motor will be very happy after it's all done. Taking the intake off involves a lot of small parts/brakets/bolts etc. Google for the you-tube videos on the intake removal, and label everything. I pulled my intake before taking my car to the mechanic and though it was time consuming to remove everything but with the labels reassembly went pretty quick.

 

[WorldTraveler]

I just went through all this on my gen 2.5, well actually I paid someone else to do it. Couple things:

-I'd add cleaning/re-bleeding or replacing the valve lash adjusters (VLA). This is a relatively inexpensive part that may be just fine. Mine made no noise before the job. After the job my motor was ticking badly. I was very unhappy as I'm not sure how long I want to keep this car and I, personally, would never buy a car that sounded like it did. The mechanic attempted to "bleed" them, but was unsuccessful. Ultimately he needed to go back and replace them. Maybe it isn't as prevalent an issue on the DOHC motors but on the SOHC motors I believe I read that an updated VLA with a larger bleed hole was implemented half way through the 98 model year. Mine is a 98 and I don't know if my original bits were the updated version or not.

-Double check with your mitsu dealer on the proper torque setting for the updated crank bolt. There are a lot of anecdotal stories about getting this wrong and damaging the crank position sensor as a result. For my Gen 2.5 dealer parts guy and mitsu tech said to torque to factory spec minus 2 ft/lbs. I left the work to my mechanic.

-Double check you have your crank properly positioned in regard to timing marks, the woodruff key and the locating pin. I forget the nitty gritty details but apparently it is easy to mess this up and then your crank pulley will not properly seat and will spin itself on the crank causing damage to crank and pulley. Do some research on this and you'll find the details.

-Finally, I believe your DOHC motor also has the "butterfly" valve on the lower intake plenum. This is what can fail and get "ingested" into those motors. I learned this when researching the purchase of a Montero. Someone else will have to chime in on the best way to update/fix/mitigate that hazard...or search for it, I know it is written about extensively.

Good luck. It's a lot of work but the motor will be very happy after it's all done. Taking the intake off involves a lot of small parts/brakets/bolts etc. Google for the you-tube videos on the intake removal, and label everything. I pulled my intake before taking my car to the mechanic and though it was time consuming to remove everything but with the labels reassembly went pretty quick.

Right on, Man! I appreciate your input. I'm going to price out new lifters. Hopefully not too outrageous as I am definitely having an intermittent ticking (start-up/1k-3.5k rpms).
Yeah. Of course my local Mitsu dealer just came under new ownership, so they're all very inexperienced with mistubishis. But, I'm trying to inform myself as best as possible before jumping in. I'd definitely like to address any advised issue with the intake plenum while I'm in there, so hopefully I can find something.

Thanks,