241OR Ruby Tcase conversion, input needed

['round n' back again]

Seems like it would be less headache to just sell that transfer case and get the marks gears


I'm giving it serious thought, but will then go after a stax
my sole reservation is the thunderin' body mods. I'm allergic to hacking, I'm also allergic to body lifts and anything that smells like labor

are the hyundai 5.29s still avail? if so, couple those with 2.85s from marks. straightforward, simple, and a killer combo for Gen 1.

Hyundai 5.29???
2.85 gears for the gen one case?
the gen 1 has a fatal flaw- no neutral gear space, but do have a pto cover or appears to be a pto cover.

 

[sledhooligan]

There was a complete set of gen 2 axles with 5.29 hyundai gears for sale on here this summer. Not sure if they sold or not. But they'd fit in a gen 1 pretty easily. I wanted to buy them for my swb but put the money towards my SAS LWB. The Mark gears are nice in my SWB , just wish the case was bigger to fit the 3.15s.
Not sure about 1st gen autos but manuals have a neutral in the tcase.

 

['round n' back again]

thank u for this.
today there will be a visit from mr. Mitsu, the fellow who in another post I introduced through his fantastic car collection.
I check with him on the manual trans thing.
he may have one in his she'd somewhere

 

[Toasty]

dam clever.
and how did u deal with 4th o.d. solenoid?

You just bypass it, possibly even just works unplugged. I can't recall because it was so easy. The Hyundai 5.29 gears are actually for the Gen 1, the ones for sale were PA_JERO's and they were custom installed into his 9.5 rear diff and he fit the Gen 1 front diff in his Gen 2 to make it work. The Hyundai gears are just licensed copies of the Mitsu 5.29's with the difference being that they upgraded the gearset to use Gen 2 hardware so depending on your combination of axles you may have to drill your carrier flange.
As for a neutral position, the overseas Pajero manual trans had the PTO option and although the auto T-case has the cover it lacks the internals to power a PTO. It can however be modified to have a neutral position by machining a detent between hi and low range catching it in neutral.

 

['round n' back again]

this is very helpful information , thank u.

 

[Pdivizzle0112]

Any more updates? A ruby 2 case in my 95 SR would be awesome. Need a parts list

 

[Toasty]

Any more updates? A ruby 2 case in my 95 SR would be awesome. Need a parts list

This isn't the thread for that, a 241 into a Gen 1 is a much different affair than into a Gen 2. I'd say read through my build thread but i doubt it's that helpful, probably "I'm installing a Rubicon case... BAM it's in". If you're serious, i can detail a parts list for you and tell you what to do but keep in mind it's about a $2000 swap and the prerequisite is a minimum 2" body lift.

 

[Pdivizzle0112]

This isn't the thread for that, a 241 into a Gen 1 is a much different affair than into a Gen 2. I'd say read through my build thread but i doubt it's that helpful, probably "I'm installing a Rubicon case... BAM it's in". If you're serious, i can detail a parts list for you and tell you what to do but keep in mind it's about a $2000 swap and the prerequisite is a minimum 2" body lift.

I’m which area of the Tcase is the 2” lift needed most? Is it something that can be done if a section of the floor is cut and modified or would it get in the way of the seat frames and such? I don’t have any back seats in mine

 

[Toasty]

The front output will be in the driver seat frame, i have a 2" bodylift AND my floor is hammered into the seat base. I always tell people the 3.15's are cheaper, easier and typically more than enough gear for most people's uses. I'm still not sure 4:1 was worth it, the NP241 isn't as good of a transfer case as the Mitsu T-case with 3.15's i took out but i wanted a little better low range for 37's. Don't get me wrong 4:1 is ************** but the NP241 is kinda clunky and noisy compared to the Mitsu case, Jeep guys don't notice it because it's all they know. Anyway the i'm going to upgrade to a Dana 20 case with a Blackbox-i underdrive in the next year or two.

 

[Toasty]

...don't let me discourage you i'm just trying to give honest input on the swap, it's not easy but if being ************ were easy everyone would be doing it.

 

[Pdivizzle0112]

...don't let me discourage you i'm just trying to give honest input on the swap, it's not easy but if being ************ were easy everyone would be doing it.

I really appreciate your input, I figured I’d ask since you’re the man when it comes to this sort of thing. The 3.15’s aren’t cheap, but I think for ease of installation, and the fact that I can retain the Mitsubishi T-box, the plusses outweigh the negatives. Thanks!

 

[Toasty]

I've had a few sets of Mark's gears, the quality is tops. I'll be getting a set for my '98 Montero V8 project. I just need to do the math on what ratio i should get, with the 5 speed auto I'll have a lower first gear and I'm only running 33's so the 2.72 gearset is probably the one BUT would 3.15's be too much or really awesome? Stuff to think about because a low range that is too low isn't real useful on a trail truck, heck the 2.72 might be too low. This truck might just be great for ********************** in 1.90 4lo.

 

['round n' back again]

the idea of forcefully modifying the underside of montee gives me pause.
clocking is likely out, due to front driveline angles, and body lifts are going in the opposite direction than is good for me, so the ruby in my gen 1 is on hold. and that is assuming I can fine an appropriate input shaft to mate my t case to my automatic; which is the first hurdle.
5.29 is out, as I am content with my road gears which are now 4.56? something like that. 5.29 is wearisome on the long desert highways I travel.

one option, is to leave everything as is and boost power...dramatically.
with 31's, 4.56 and the paltry reduction ratio, more power might be the cheapest best solution.
so get past 200 rwhp, with boost might make the grade, and make a better man of me., it sure would be fun , a 2.4, boosted, but the 2.6 turbo, makes the torque where I need it most...

 

[Pdivizzle0112]

the idea of forcefully modifying the underside of montee gives me pause.
clocking is likely out, due to front driveline angles, and body lifts are going in the opposite direction than is good for me, so the ruby in my gen 1 is on hold. and that is assuming I can fine an appropriate input shaft to mate my t case to my automatic; which is the first hurdle.
5.29 is out, as I am content with my road gears which are now 4.56? something like that. 5.29 is wearisome on the long desert highways I travel.

one option, is to leave everything as is and boost power...dramatically.
with 31's, 4.56 and the paltry reduction ratio, more power might be the cheapest best solution.
so get past 200 rwhp, with boost might make the grade, and make a better man of me., it sure would be fun , a 2.4, boosted, but the 2.6 turbo, makes the torque where I need it most...

I would highly recommend against modifying the engine. Not that it’s a bad thing, but for simplifying things when something goes bad in the middle of nowhere. It’s much easier to find factory parts than anything custom.

 

['round n' back again]

custom did you say!!??
well here is custom for you , if i keep the v6 in there which is tempting.
how about a remote turbo, edis 6 ignition and run the mess off of MS v.2 ?!

As it is, there are scarcely parts immediately available for the mitsu in original form, for my year. Ihave to carry the parts store with me (starter, cap rotor, igniter coil, spare belts etc.

the factory engine has left me stranded 3 times to date. No love lost. but i believe the 3.0 v6 could be a tire roaster in boost.

My new mitsu friend has a 2.6 turbo in a raider, that is smokin, he also has a 2.4 in a mad max...
there are options. the 2.4 is best supported in terms of parts,
but if i build it rightly as im prone to do, there will be no breakage.


but suspension forst. i went thru the front end last year and hate it very unhappy with result. so that gets top billing this winter.