2020 Ford F250 on 37s - Expedition Truck Camper Build!
- Thread starter montypower
- Start date
looks like that guy on Texas Metal got a hold of that one, he slams everything!
PirateMcGee
Expedition Leader
Bronco Raptor? Or Ranger Raptor?
rruff
Explorer
Maybe the Bronco, not the Ranger.
Todd n Natalie
OverCamper
Wider than a Super Duty? Guessing Bronco Raptor as well.
montypower
Adventure Time!
Winner!
I don't want to derail this thread too far... Continue conversation here: https://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/a-2022-bronco-raptor-named-dino.243838/
Todd n Natalie
OverCamper
Yay!! I won the kewpie doll! Congrats on the new ride!
montypower
Adventure Time!
Who else runs with no sway bars?
We've been running without sway bars on for over 4 years with the truck camper and towing. My experience has been with proper springs (designed for the loaded travel weight) and tuned shocks (larger diameter is helpful: 2.5"+ diameter) you'll be amazed at the control and stability.
Most people don't talk about the negative affects of sway bars. Essentially they are creating leverage to keep both wheels traveling together. This helps reduce lean while cornering (on road). But it works against you in nearly every other situation. Think pothole, sloped driveways or speed bump (when approached at an angle) and nearly all off road travel (limits suspension articulation). In these situations sway bars can induce sway (which isn't talked about).
I wouldn't remove sway bars on "soft" factory suspension (generally) as body lean while cornering can get excessive. However, I prefer driving vehicles with proper suspension in all conditions with sway bars removed. Yes, you can get more body lean while cornering but it is predictable and controllable; helps you feel what is going on. I've had no trouble cornering on road above any posted speed limit (with full control and confidence). And performance in every other condition is improved. Test it for yourself (with proper suspension).
We've been running without sway bars on for over 4 years with the truck camper and towing. My experience has been with proper springs (designed for the loaded travel weight) and tuned shocks (larger diameter is helpful: 2.5"+ diameter) you'll be amazed at the control and stability.
Most people don't talk about the negative affects of sway bars. Essentially they are creating leverage to keep both wheels traveling together. This helps reduce lean while cornering (on road). But it works against you in nearly every other situation. Think pothole, sloped driveways or speed bump (when approached at an angle) and nearly all off road travel (limits suspension articulation). In these situations sway bars can induce sway (which isn't talked about).
I wouldn't remove sway bars on "soft" factory suspension (generally) as body lean while cornering can get excessive. However, I prefer driving vehicles with proper suspension in all conditions with sway bars removed. Yes, you can get more body lean while cornering but it is predictable and controllable; helps you feel what is going on. I've had no trouble cornering on road above any posted speed limit (with full control and confidence). And performance in every other condition is improved. Test it for yourself (with proper suspension).
rruff
Explorer
I agree regarding stock suspension needing them, but Ironman FCPs work great without swaybars... even with a camper. Very controlled on mountain switchbacks, turns, onramps, sudden maneuvers, etc.I think high digressive damping is what you want. Designed to be firm at low speed (shock motion) while still responding to bumps.
Transit720
Member
I'm running WITHOUT rear swaybar (though I do have one on the front) on RAM3500 with flatbed camper (maybe 2,400 lbs of load, including the flatbed??). The truck has custom Alcan leaf pack and 2.5" diameter ADS shocks. I don't notice any unpleasant "lean" while road driving, and I value having the unresricted full flex of the suspension while off-road.
The only time that I notice slight movement is when I am at camp and moving around within the camper shell. If I move forcefully, I sometime notice a slight feeling of "being on a boat" but it's not a big deal. Maybe this would be eliminated with the addition of a rear sway bear, but it's definitely not worth the tradeoff of compromising off-road performance, especially since the on road driving manners are already excellent without.
The only time that I notice slight movement is when I am at camp and moving around within the camper shell. If I move forcefully, I sometime notice a slight feeling of "being on a boat" but it's not a big deal. Maybe this would be eliminated with the addition of a rear sway bear, but it's definitely not worth the tradeoff of compromising off-road performance, especially since the on road driving manners are already excellent without.
tacollie
Glamper
My truck came with front and rear sway bars. I'm running Carli coils, Alcan Springs, and Fox 2.5 shocks. Originally pulled the rear one because we had a more off-road oriented trip. The truck handled so much better on the highway I have to pull the front one after that trip. With the sway bars on uneven roads or bridge expansion gaps the truck would get thrown all over the road. It could be a downright unruly. Without them it just soaks it all up. My wife actually prefers driving our f250 without sway bars.
phsycle
Adventurer
Interesting. Having owned and driven a Jeep Rubicon extensively, swaybar disconnect is amazing offroad. Even with solid axles, it just soaks everything up.
It’d be cool to get rid of them in the F150. What’s the general rule of thumb when considering springs/suspension when planning to remove swaybars? How do you determine how stiff you go?
It’d be cool to get rid of them in the F150. What’s the general rule of thumb when considering springs/suspension when planning to remove swaybars? How do you determine how stiff you go?
montypower
Adventure Time!
My experience has been that most "performance" suspensions can mitigate sway bars (assuming sprung + valved properly for actual vehicle weight). On the cheaper end: OME & Bilstein products. And higher performance: Fox, King, Radflo, Icon, ADS...
You need to test handling (in safe manner) and drive within vehicle capability. It is surprising how good a heavy vehicle can perform (within its limits).
rruff
Explorer
I wouldn't advise higher spring rates; what you want is high digressive damping, especially if you are carrying a camper This will ride a bit rougher on "good" roads, but the control is a big step up IME. The digressive valving makes them firmer on slow speed motions like turns, but they will still respond to a bump (rock, pothole) which is a higher force/speed motion. Even with a camper and load, I never get the wallowing feeling I did with my stock truck even when it was unloaded and had a swaybar installed. There is some sway in sweeping turns, but I can exceed the speed limit with no problem.
