Drive shaft?

[Christophe Noel]

I'll preface this by stating - I've parked the DII for good until this is resolved.

On my way to work today, I accellerated up to about 35 mph and noticed a very mild, but noticeable vibration. As soon as I eased off the accellerator, it subsided. Drive shaft? I've got 94,000 miles on the factory shafts.

Tires were recently rotated and balanced and have been smooth as silk for two weeks.

How do I inspect the shafts? Grab and shake?

 

[BigAl]

How do I inspect the shafts? Grab and shake?

Yep, there should not be much side to side play at the u joint

 

[Paladin]

That's what mine felt like, mild vibration, got stronger with more load. I coudn't really feel anything on the shaft axially, but you could wiggle it radially (up and down). I could see it looked like the joints had started to fail. You could see fresh metal stick out around the yokes where the bearings were coming apart. That was the front shaft of course.

 

[Antichrist]

You can't tell if a propshaft is bad by grabbing it and shaking it. Or at least that won't tell you if you have a seized u-joint. You have to disconnect at least one end to tell if that's the case.

But with that mileage on an OE DII front propshaft you're living on borrowed time. When was the last time you greased the u-joint at the front diff and at the parking brake end of the rear propshaft?

 

[Dave Legacy]

You can't tell if a propshaft is bad by grabbing it and shaking it. Or at least that won't tell you if you have a seized u-joint. You have to disconnect at least one end to tell if that's the case.

But with that mileage on an OE DII front propshaft you're living on borrowed time. When was the last time you greased the u-joint at the front diff and at the parking brake end of the rear propshaft?

This is true. I checked mine for play and it didn't move at all... Then it blew up 2 days later. Change it out or rebuilt it. I really liked my Tom Wood's DC driveshaft and I greased it at every oil change.

 

[Christophe Noel]

When was the last time you greased the u-joint at the front diff and at the parking brake end of the rear propshaft?

Uh........

Okay, so new drive shaft(s) are in order.

 

[Christophe Noel]

So, what are the arguments for rebuild vs. replace. This truck doesn't get used offroad with much abuse. I assume a replacement shaft is $400. What about rebuild?

 

[Chazz Layne]

So, what are the arguments for rebuild vs. replace. This truck doesn't get used offroad with much abuse. I assume a replacement shaft is $400. What about rebuild?

A replacement Tom Woods will be right around there, delivered. I believe I paid $350.



As for rebuilt factory shafts, it isn't worth it unless you have no money and plenty of time (it is a PITA). If you do decide to go this route, the parts will cost you about $120, labor usually $100+. FYI - any Volvo shop can handle it, the same parts are used in their driveshafts. Take it there and don't tell them it's a Rover, it might save you a little cash.

Alternately, can buy the whole thing already done for $220 (after $60 core refund) from Toddco if you really want to go that route. Still, add in shipping both ways and now you're pretty close to having a brand-spanking-new Woody. :smiley_drive:

Also, if you buy a new Tom Woods, you can keep the old shaft as a spare or sell it.

 

[Paladin]

So, what are the arguments for rebuild vs. replace. This truck doesn't get used offroad with much abuse. I assume a replacement shaft is $400. What about rebuild?

Some have complained about a vibration from the TW shafts. Mine has been fine.

For light use, I'd just rebuild the stock one. Make sure you change the Rotoflex as it's probably due too.

 

[Brian McVickers]

If you have a locking center differential remove the front drive shaft and you can use the truck in 2WD with no issues.

As for the drive shaft there are really four options:
1- Land Rover Genuine replacement $~400
2- Tom Woods or other replacement, as stated here ~ $250-$350
3- Take the original to a driveline shop and ask them to rebuild it ~$120
4- Buy replacement U-Joints at NAPA and rebuild it yourself using the PDF of step-by-step instructions that is available out there on the web. ~$50
If you do it yourself you will need to take it into a driveline shop and have them balance it for you.

I have had three go out on me.
Warning signs:
- Physical = Shuddering in the steering wheel, vibration when accellerating and slack in the driveline which is like a delay or clunk between accellerator and moving.
- Audible = You will likely hear a chirping, the sound of metal on metal especially during acceleration.
- Visual = Take a flashlight, even if it day, and inspect the back end of the front drive shaft. Look for bright new shiny metal within the joints and also look for chunked or metal strips hanging off the same area.

IMHO - Considering how you use it I think the original shaft rebuilt with greasable joints will be just fine.

Regards,
Brian

 

[MatthewThompson]

IMHO - Considering how you use it I think the original shaft rebuilt with greasable joints will be just fine.

If you're driving like an adult, 95% of the time this is the case. Just hit it with the grease-gun every other oil change. $140 for new universals here, $50 to have it reassembled (should have just put it together myself), no problems in a year.

 

[Antichrist]

Read this thread:
http://www.landroverforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29302

To rebuild your front yourself with USA made parts will run you $70 in parts (3 u-joints and center ball kit), not $120. If your rear one has two u-joints another $26 for the rear.

The above link also covers proper greasing. There's more to it than just hitting it with a grease gun.

The stock propshafts are fine for 95% of disco owners. I've had an OEM DII propshaft in my '95 for 165k miles (with one rebuild) and I'm not gentle on my Discovery off-road.
I do have a GBR rear propshaft.

 

[dwh]

What I haven't seen mentioned is that driveshafts...uh..wait...it's a limey...PROPshafts need to be balanced.

I can do my own u-joint replacement, but I prefer to just pull the shaft and drop it at a drive shaft shop and let them rebuild it. I do that because they have the equipment to A) make certain it's true (straight) and B) make certain it's balanced.

 

[Antichrist]

What I haven't seen mentioned is that driveshafts...uh..wait...it's a limey...PROPshafts need to be balanced.

I can do my own u-joint replacement, but I prefer to just pull the shaft and drop it at a drive shaft shop and let them rebuild it. I do that because they have the equipment to A) make certain it's true (straight) and B) make certain it's balanced.

Certainly an option. For me I just have them balance them, after I do the rebuild, for $30.
Doing that saves me about $80 in parts.

 

[Colorado David]

I installed the Tom Woods front prop shaft. I kept my old LR original prop shaft and will rebuild it as time allows and then have it balanced at a drive line shop and hold it as a swap in replacement.