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If you think it's the slip yoke, it'll be faster to clean and relube it yourself than to go to the dealer and wait. It's very easy; quicker than an oil change. There is a lightweight Motorcraft Teflon lube the dealerships use, but I used brake grease and it's been working great. Transfer case...

You'll probably need to reset the sensors. You can enter a TPMS reset mode and go around with a speaker magnet or something similar to each wheel. If the procedure isn't in the manual, it's definitely published on the internet.

Here's another example of what you're trying to do: You may want to look into reinforcing the bedsides or transferring load to the floor, since that seems like a lot of weight shifting from side to side.

Those are the second wheel types of the first gen raptor... the second gen Raptor isn't even out yet, it's a 2017 model. There are three wheel types for the first gen, the almost all black/grey the Raptor debuted with, then the ones above, and finally the beadlock capable ones (they come with...

I was ghetto and just squeezed the crap out of my connections with pliers =( I guess it's just asking it to fail at some point.

It shouldnt be an issue, as the relay just opens/closes a connection based on the energy from a different circuit. It doesn't connect the two circuits.

Nice looking truck!

I just cut two holes in my F150 bumper last weekend. I had trimmed some plastic pieces here and there, but never took a grinder to one of my vehicles before :Wow1: I will wire flush mount lights this Friday.

Nice pictures. I haven't been camping or out at GWNF since December. Need to get back there soon...

There are a few options. You could connect a junction block, or they are a variety of battery post additions like http://www.waytekwire.com/item/78249/Battery-Busbar-Terminal-Mount/

Fox says waxing and polishing is necessary as well. Part of their recommended service: http://www.ridefox.com/service.php?m=truck&ref=topnavservice

If the Raptors and Power Wagons are $50k, I would think they would price the Tacomas just below that.

I don't think these have any dimming capabilities, but they fit the size you are looking for: http://www.bajadesigns.com/products/hid-lighting/fuego-hid-lights I've got some "wide cornering" LEDs mounted low and angled out slightly and it really helps me see around corners when driving down...

Another thought is if you recalibrated the truck when you added the bigger tires? If not then your speedometer is reading a slower speed than you are actually traveling. This means you would get worse mileage than you would expect at the speed you think you are going due to wind resistance, as...

A big factor is how fast you are driving. If I was to go 55mph, I'm sure I'd get 16 or 17 mpg... but if I'm going 80 then it drops down to about 13.

My stock pressure is 44psi. I'll go down to 30-35 depending on the road conditions. I'd rather be driving than airing up and down all the time and I wouldn't want to drive on the highway below 30psi. If it's just sand I'd start at 20psi and then air down further only if required.

That's cool; I like it

It sounds really silly but a leaf blower helps to clean out the dust once it has made it inside. I know this because my truck doesn't even have a cabin air filter =( My wife's 2002 base model Civic has one. My 2002 base model Impala has one. But the F-150 that's "made to work?" Nope... not...

RO is reverse osmosis. There are systems that would be compact enough you could mount in the jeep, but certainly not as portable as the Sawyers. Keep in mind those Sawyers are rated for 100,000 gallons and cost less than $20 each at Walmart. Anyway, RO systems will get you cleaner water, but...

If you already have the tank and pump, you could just buy a few Sawyer filters (https://sawyer.com/products/type/water-filtration/) and put them inline. They filter down to .1 micron, are inexpensive, and don't take up much room. They aren't as high flow as a big RO setup, but is fine for...