Here's some more info on the truck;
As far as the truck goes, I know that the RH rear wheel bearing was loose. It has been this way since I purchased the truck. I towed the truck 1200+ kms home from Montana before rebuilding the engine and getting it running on it's own steam again, since then I have probably put on about another 800-1000kms without touching the wheel bearing. I was originally debating swapping in a full floater axle but I did purchase a Toyota wheel bearing kit for it off of ebay just in case. The truck would probably drive to where ever it needed to get with it as is, but to be safe it should probably be changed. From what I remember, the canvas was in decent shape, but the bug screens were trashed. You would either have to sew in new bug screens in place or else remove the canvas to have it done. Before leaving for the winter I started the truck up and drove it to a friends farm (1 hour out of Calgary). It runs and drives fine but it's not without issues, here's everything I can think of off the top of my head;
-When I was driving it from Saskatchewan to Alberta a few years back the heater sucked up all of the leaves that were filling the air intake, the heater core is now full of little bits of leaves
-Windshield is cracked and not permanently mounted because the roof rack has to be bolted on first then the roof upholstery wraps around the windshield edge, then the windshield goes in... It won't go anywhere if you drive it though
-The truck has 6 military tires mounted on rims, I noticed last fall when I parked it that a one of the sidewalls had cracks in it
-The red-necks that owned the truck before me put a lift kit on it... I had planned on eventually putting heavier duty springs in the rear that wouldn't allow so much flex and eliminate their 'block lift'
-The front knuckles might leak a bit (honestly can't remember, most Toyota's that I've owned over the years have done so..)
-The U-joints and driveshaft splines are good, I remember checking those
-I brought the injectors to a diesel shop (this is before I had my own tester) and had them bench check them, one failed so they rebuilt it. The rednecks before also installed a 12V fuel lift pump, it doesn't need it so I'm not sure why they did this. I replaced all of the seals in the upper end of the injection pump. Glow plugs are new, alternator brushes still have a lot of life left in them. Engine head is new, rad is new, waterpump is new, hoses are new, belts are new, clutch and pilot bearing are new, fuel filter is new (I'd recommend replacing it with a RACOR at some point). Tranny and front diff are filled with synthetic, but rear should be done as I was debating with the whole full floater idea (with disk brakes of course) and didn't put much time into the rear axle. Has a new K+N filter. Truck is straight piped shortly after the turbo downpipe. It's actually not that loud believe it or not, but it does sound quite mean when you step on it with the windows open I wouldn't have it any other way!
-I was told by the previous owner that the fuel quantity indication didn't work right, I pulled the sending unit before installing the camper and it tested fine and I haven't ever run out of fuel...
-When I was building the extra instrument cluster my buddy tipped it upside down and the brand new EGT gauge fell out and hit the floor.. The thermocouple is mounted but the gauge didn't work after that point, should be replaced
-I installed a very cheap oil pressure indicator from Princess Auto (electrical sending unit), it only worked before I wired up the gauge cluster, now it's dead (don't worry the engine has good oil px)
-Wiring needs to be installed in the camper, I have lots of supplies. Wiring also needs to be installed for spot lights before closing in the roof upholstery.
-Interior needs to be finished to your liking, there is a designated spot for a fridge, but that's about it. In hind-sight I should have not gutted the interior so quickly, it would have been better to sell it with an ugly interior then nothing at all. One quick and easy option I suppose would be to find another Chinook and swap guts as I have long since thrown everything except for the fridge, stove (haven't tested them though), and water tank out. I also threw out the furnace as I was sketched out by the thought of trusting my life to a little 30 year old rusty tin can.
-A lot of the exterior guards and such are all painted flat desert tan and have been stored inside the camper, they need to be mounted before finishing the interior.
We painted the frame on the truck but it didn't actually have that much for surface rust in the first place, we put rubber diamond plate inside the cab of the truck, but I'm not convinced that it's the best way to go, I also have a few rhino-liner kits that could be used on the floor instead.
-Rear lights in bumper haven't been connected yet, the other brake and signal lights are connected but not permanently.
-There are heavy duty steel panels that replace the wimpy aluminum grilles on the side of the camper, they are lockable so nobody steels the propane or smashes their way into your camper
-The front doors have panels that can swing back and lock to prevent anyone from forcing them open, then there are bars that slip through to prevent entry though the front windows. There is an anti-theft system that won't allow vehicle to be started without another special key that mounts under driver seat, all in all the vehicle was designed not to be stolen or broken into
-My friend reclaimed the Warn 8274 and hi-lift that's in the one picture but the bumper and fairleads are still set up for it
-The batteries are not good anymore, they should be replaced I might have one kicking around that will suffice for the time being.
-I have all kinds of extras for this build including spot lights, rear backup lights, running lights all around, spare rad hoses, metal tubing for interior/counter/bed construction, rolls of auto wiring, fuse holders and terminal blocks, etc. etc. etc. I can't even think of all of the stuff right now.
Any more questions feel free to ask!
Tyler
