1st Gen 4x4 Trekker build *opinions needed*

[Magnum Johnson]

Thanks for all the positive info guys, im super happy that I stumbled across something as rare as a Trekker while searching for a new truck.

I have been reading over there at Pirate too, but your rite, I don't dare ask noob questions over there. I found expedition portal about a year ago and have loved reading it ever since. You guys all seem very helpful and knowledgeable. Plus im not a hard core off road guy just someone who's willing to venture off the beaten path.

I agree 100% that this thing must have been the coolest truck in town in 1982 but times have changed and I don't like having 1 ton-ish suspension on my Yota. I think I would like to maintain a bit of lift on the truck but I want to lose the duals for sure. Anyone have any experience with the universal shock hoop kit? http://www.trail-gear.com/shock-hoops. I also assume that the front springs, although flat, are about +3"? So if I were to swap out the duals in favor of the hoop for the 12-14" shocks add in new front 3" springs, lose the rear lift blocks add some 3" springs in the rear that I would likely be setup correctly?

Im thinking that if I were to go with a gasoline engine I would go 2rz or 3rz for sure. Big power is in my blood, but im willing to slow it way down for this truck. Although yesterday I did take out the Supra (2jzgte) and ill admit the power difference between the 90hp 4300lb truck and my 500hp 2900lb car is more more than night and day can describe. Almost makes me think a 1uz could work nicely.

Im also thinking that I may build some sort of slide out boxes for the rear area. I have seen several designs here that would work out well for my truck. Has anyone experimented with any sort of roof net for a camper? I was thinking it would work out well for soft items but maybe its a bad idea.

Again thanks for all the feedback and suggestions!! Im very excited to finally have something unique to build up.

Almost forgot is there one front knuckle service kit that is better than others? I notice that Marlin charges more than TrialGear and says they use Japanese barrings. Any preference?

 

[refried]

I think some new 3" springs all around and a set of KYBs will really help. Add some greaseable shackles, pins and bushings and it really helps keeping things free and clean. you can loose one of the steering stabilizers (keep the top, the bottom will get smashed sooner or later), no need for two, they only hide front end problems. I replaced the tie rod on mine with one thats much heavier, I think it really helped with the 35s. I've never had a problem with brake fade, even with 35" tires, use good quality pads and shoes and you'll be fine.
Have you thought about a 4.3 swap? If I didn't have a Buick in mine It would have a 4.3 (there were few options when I built mine), they're cheap, plentiful, and have good power stock.
I have a bungi cord spider web thing that I keep in the truck, nothing gets out from under it, I think that along with a Con-Fer type rack would work out real well.

 

[Owyhee H]

Nice truck. I think you will love it. I think you were saying this but I would stick with the 22r until you figure out everything else. For suspension, the springs were even flatter from the factory if you can believe that, go with OME. The OME springs and shocks should work great with your rig. Rebuilding the knuckles isn't hard, just take your time to get the drag set correct if you using new bearings. Use Marlins kit for the rebuild, they have the OE bearings and good quality wipes and gaskets.

Gearing wise, you have toyota 8 inch front and rear, really easy to change out. There are lots of options for gearing and if you search you can probably get used thirds for ~100, which is the cheapest and best option. I have 31's and run 4.30(stock was 4.10) gears but could run 4.56 or 4.10 just as well. If you dont like the auto locker and want selectable the first gen TRD tacomas and some 4runners of the same era have an electric locker in the rear that can be fit into your rear (or front) axle quite easily. The electric lockers are more expensive thirds but can be easily found with 4.10 and 4.30 stock gears, I hear 4.56 but have not ever found one.
If your going to change gearing I would suggest doing it when you rebuild your front axle, pulling the axles already.

Well you have lots of work to do but the truck should be worth it.

Good luck.

 

[PirateMcGee]

pirate4x4 is for lurking.........not for posting lol

 

[tanglefoot]

Wow--amazing rig!

I'm running the OME-light front spring packs with OME shocks and they have really transformed the ride. I used to have to slow to almost a stop for curbs and culverts--it felt like sitting on a skateboard. Now it just rolls right over and soaks everything up.

Can you just remove a front shock from each side and see how it rides? I'm always trying for the simpler solutions. These trucks don't really need much shock damping, I've found.

Be really cautious with the front axle rebuild. I think I probably nicked my new front axle tube seals as I was putting the shafts back in--they started weeping again about a month after putting it back together. I've just left it for the last 10 years--it hasn't gotten any worse. It's not even enough to lower the fluid level--it just leaves a few drops on the tires and the street.

If you want a budget-minded winch, I like the Chicago-Electric from Harbor Freight. It's practically an identical product to the other 8000 lb cap permanent-magnet winches but the cost is quite a bit lower. I've had it about 6 years without a problem. I haven't used it a lot, but it always works. It comes with 100 ft of cable, a wired remote that plugs in and a hawse fairlead. *update* It looks like they're selling this one now: http://www.harborfreight.com/8000-lb-electric-winch-with-automatic-brake-67576.html I think it's the same winch with a different name on it--it's identical except for the remote. It's a little more now--it was $299 when I got it.

I have an auto-locker in the back too and really like it. I usually forget it's there. After a while, you just automatically learn how to feather the clutch around corners to keep it from bucking, or just shove the clutch in real quick when it starts and then get back on it real easy.

Eric

 

[Dave Bennett]

Bring that Trekker to the Rendezvous!

Thanks for all the positive info guys, im super happy that I stumbled across something as rare as a Trekker while searching for a new truck.

I have been reading over there at Pirate too, but your rite, I don't dare ask noob questions over there. I found expedition portal about a year ago and have loved reading it ever since. You guys all seem very helpful and knowledgeable. Plus im not a hard core off road guy just someone who's willing to venture off the beaten path.

You're more than welcome to bring that baby out the Rendezvous and meet some of the cool folks here, it's right in your back yard! Guaranteed to be more Toyota Gearheads in one spot than anywhere else, we'd love to see that thing.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=54407

 

[Magnum Johnson]

I think ill try removing a shock for all 4 corners, I though about it but it honestly seemed too simple to possibly work. I guess the worst that happens is I put them back on.

Thanks for the info on the knuckle rebuild and diffs!

I would love to venture out to a local event, but idk if my little turd is ready for a trip yet, im still happy it hasn't broken on my way to and from work yet. Once I get some more maintenance stuff taken care of ill head out for sure.

 

[Unorthodox]

That is a sexy truck,

I to have looked at the TDI v 617 swap but have been leaning towards the 1.9 TDI myself. The volkswagen engine is about the same weight as the 4 cylinder Toyota that is already in there, has a provision for a mechanical fuel pump and throttle linkage (mTDI), gets better MPG, and in places like Mexico, there is a good body of VW support if you brake something. There is also the ACME Adapter kit for the conversion which smooths things along, whereas the 617 you will have to do your own plate. Also you would rather have the 1.9TDI than the 2.0 because the 2.0 needs that extra low sulfur diesel, and if you plan on driving anywhere ****ty, that might be hard to find. Just my $0.02

I have a 79 Pickup right now that I would like to replace the carb with one of these: Sonex AeroInjector which is the American version of the Rotec TBI that has allegedly been used on a handful of other applications other than aircraft. I emailed the sales people at AeroConversions about trying to find used or out of production AeroInjectors or AeroCarbs that they need to get rid of. I think a totally mechanical TBI option on the 20r or 22r would breathe allot of life back into a solid engine.

That is a beautiful Trekker though, my buddy has one but the fiberglass body split down the middle because it was stored with a bunch of junk in the bed.

 

[alextreme76]

if you are swapping the engine, adding a winch, and changing the rear bumper. you'll have to play with you suspension again after all that. i would stick with a 22re since it wont shift the weight up front, and our family's 87 4Runner had 318k miles on it when we sold it.

 

[Magnum Johnson]

Ya I really don't have much of an issue with the 22r, so a 22re would be a welcome upgrade. Idk if its just me or a problem with the sender but it seems that my truck runs very cool, unless I pull a grade the temp gauge sits at about the 1/8 position and will go up to 1/2 way up a grade. That's also with a new heater control valve, a decent flush, and distilled water and new coolant.

 

[tanglefoot]

The '85 always hovers around 1/4 on the temp gauge once it's warmed up. The work load doesn't change the gauge setting at all. The only time it's different is with the climate control slider on the "hot" side. I'm not sure if the Supra or the Trekker has it, but the cold water dump on the thermostat from the heater core is pretty common. My parents' '88 runs around 1/2 to 3/4 on the gauge--it makes me a little nervous, but has never been a problem. These temp gauges are sort of guess indicators--they're not very precise. If you're very concerned about water temperature, you might go for an aftermarket gauge and possibly a different sender. You can also mess around with a hand-held, IR gauge to get some good numbers from the rad, block or hoses.

 

[Dave Bennett]

That truck would be smokin' with a 22RE or even the newer 2.7... :drool:

 

[squatch]

very nice trekker you got there! I see a nice one driving round up here. all ways makes me SMILE! ENJOY!!

 

[john101477]

Oh these are cool man!!! the first 4runner so to speak. if your gonna swap motors the 2.7 is cool. Few guys building these over on yotatech.com

Looking forward to seeing what you do with it.

 

[Nwtrekker]

Trekker

I'm interested in your rear bumper if you change it out. I have an 81 trekker and would like to have the stock bumper. I also have dual shocks on all corners. I have the aux fuel tank above the spare and it rocks. I was told it was raced in the Baja 500 in 84-85 but I'm not sure if that's true. It had a 4pt rollcage in the cab and 4pt harnesses for the driver and passenger seats.