2nd Gen 4Runner

[Viggen]

I was originally going to pick up a 1st gen 4Runner but finding a good one (read: not rusted through) has been pretty tough. The good, clean ones are going for a ton of money so I decided to look elsewhere. I thought about a Land Cruiser but they are just too big for what I need so enter the 2nd Gen. Why the 2nd? Still simple with minimum electronics but comfortable and A/C (my gf will not ride in it without it...). Ive found a V6 with a new motor, 5MT and super super clean interior and exterior for cheap. It has about 150k total.

I love the size of it and look forward to building it up into my exped vehicle. Here is my first question: I am starting with some lift and would like to run something along the lines of 33's. What is my best lift option out there? Im trying to find something that wont involve a huge diff drop in the front that you usually see on lifted Toyotas. Total Chaos, etc... are out of the question as they are seriously expensive.

 

[Martinjmpr]

I don't know much about 2nd gens but I think the difficulty you are going to have is with the torsion bar suspension. It just doesn't lend itself to lifting more than a little bit, sad to say.

Do you need 33's, or do you just want 33s? I'll admit to being a fairly mild 'wheeler but I've never run anything bigger than a 32 (235/85/16) and they have proved more than adequate. My current 265/75/16's work out to about 31.5 and, again, they are perfectly adequate for anything up to about 4 or even 5 rated trails (on the 1-10 scale used by TrailDamage.com.)

When I had my Montero (also with a torsion bar front suspension), I was actually running 235/75/15's, which are about 29", and I was able to do most of Hole-in-the-rock (a 6 rated trail!) in 1999.

I think you also have to do a cost/benefit analysis here. Is the cost of lifting your 2nd gen high enough to clear 33's going to be worth the money and effort? Add to that that the 3.0 V-6 is not exactly noted as being a powerful engine (it's called the "three point slow" for a reason ) and I would imagine it wouldn't be that much fun to drive.

If you really have to have 33's, and money/effort are no object, then maybe an SAS conversion would be a better move. IIRC the 2nd gens have the passenger side drop like the 1st gens, which means you can use an LC front axle. Other than that, I don't know much about them.

Probably the folks at Yotatech have more info.

 

[4Rescue]

You can fit 35's on any T-bar equiped Toyota with ZERO lift... It's tire width and wheel back-spacing that cause issues... BJ spacers and some 80 series coils will give you a few inches of lift and clear more tire trhen you'll need for an IFS rig. As a plus, the T-bar suspension and frames of 1st and 2nd Gen runners is stronger then the later models. They're in general very tough trucks. Happy hunting mate, let us know what you find.

Cheers

Dave

 

[tacollie]

Having owned a 2nd and 3rd gen 4runner I wouldn't mess with a 2nd gen again. I had a lot of trouble with the 3.0 and it only got 16mpg on 31s stock. My buddys sister just bought a 97 with 134k miles for 5k. If I didn't go for the 3rd gen I would look at the 1st gens even if they are a bit steep. They have the cool factor that Toyota left behind in 1990 and the 22re is a great motor. A 2nd gen someone did a 3.4 swap with would be the only way I would consider one. Just my thoughts and experiences.

 

[gofalls]

I have a 4" Trail Master Lift currently on my 2nd Gen with 33"s. It came with it from the PO and I think the lift retailed for $1400 at one time.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34633

I will eventually swap stock front parts back in to lower it down and only go with 1.5" BJ spacers.

 

[RobD]

Love my 2nd gen, but I also swapped in a 3.4 almost 3 years ago. I'm running 33s on it now with no problems, but there's no way I can imagine trying to turn 33s with the 3.0. Just not a great motor.

 

[PAyota]

Here's my '91 with LC coils in the rear and torsion bars cranked. Waiting for ball joint spacers and tires before I attempt to wheel it though. It currently has 235/75's on it but I think 33's would fit with no problem. I'm gonna go with 31's because of the 3.slow w/ the auto tranny.

 

[Cheap4r]

I love mine... And you are right... cool factor is 1st Gen, Stock capability factor is 3rd Gen with Elocker... but if you are looking for a capable rig stock for CHEEEEEEEEP... 2nd gen all the way...

Aside from the obvious 3.0 problems This is what i have done or will do soon... (your questions are answered below along with other stuff i have researched/looked into thus far)

Gears:
4.88 swap... I have an A/T with Towing Package... so i have it already, but I do know you can find good G144 code (4.88 gears) front or rear chunks in pick n pull for about $125 a piece

Locker:
Lunchboxes for about 200 each
Elocker swap about 1k... (may be less in your case but for me i would have to Install 4.88s and the Elocker uses it own gear sets)

Tires:
33x10.5 will fit with no lift... just remember...

The Tire choice for me (picking up Friday) is the FJ Cruiser OEM Steel Rims with 265/70/17 A/T's pretty much a 32x10.5x17 (about $200-300 used)

Lift:
Kinda Optional in IMO... (especially with the 33x10.5 fitting with no lift)

I have picked up a bracket lift but did not install due to the fact that you need to cut mounting points off the truck just to install the lift... if i ever wanted to remove the lift it would require welding the mounting points back on to return to stock...

My suggestion for a lift would be:
Cheap:
bj spacers/ LC coils (Boy do the LC coils FLEX!!!)

-or-

My choice (within 6 months... hopefully)

Front www.blazeland.us
Rear LC Coils
Front Shocks: Blazeland suggested size shock size, Or Custom Coil Overs (blazeland Hoops)
Rear Shocks: FJ80 rear shock size... your choice of Name brand

This is a budget Long Travel system using the T100 CV's, Moded Stock LCA and a custom UCA bracket... (NOT for jumping!) If you are looking for REAL front clearance (2 - 3 inches from lift... no tire change), a very strong product that can be rebuild with stock components, and a much flexy IFS... for under 1500 this is it... Check the Pics on the website...

I don’t work for them, I don’t promote for them... just a NEUB here over from yotatech.com where i have lived for the past 2 years

Im just impressed by their product...

So in conclusion, 2nd Gens may be looked at as a stepchild 4Rnner compared to the 1st and 3rd gens... but in actuality for the price of either you COULD buy and build a locked, lifted, long travel, Fiberglassed fenderd, rust free, clean interior 2nd gen that will be PLEANTY capable... even for the Amazon...

If you buy on sale, and good used components you might even have enough money left over for cool toys like snorkel, armor, bumpers, etc... (actually... this should be first before the lift!) All for less than the comparable condition 1st or 3rd gen purchase price!


And that is why i have one :coffeedrink: