37s and Sway Bar Rubbing – Thoughts?

Jack90

Member
Hi everyone, I have a…

2021, Ram 3500, diesel, single wheel, leaf springs, stock suspension, with a 2,500 wet weight slide into the bed fourwheel pop up style camper. At times, with the camper on, I haul a rented boat or a jeep behind as well.

I love big tires :), so I decided to put the theory to test of fitting 37 inch tires with this combination

Wheels = +19 mm offset
Tires = Nitto Trail Grapplers - 37x13.50R17LT E
Load Rating = E to handle the slide in camper and towing weight

Sure enough I am getting some major rub on the sway bar. From Just a hard turn into a gas station I can start feeling the treads grab the sway bar.

I am not disappointed, I figured this might happen :)

So far I have come up with up with these options to fix -

1 – Go down to a 35 inch tire - 35x12.50R17LT E 121Q, so can keep the Load E rating.

2 – Go from a 37 x 13.5 to a 37 x 12.5, but would have to go from a Load E to a Load D rating. My concern here is safety and handling going down to a Load D.

3 – Buy a sway bar that gives more room, but far as I could find that means the sway bar will have a softer rating and would be less stable.


From these three options which one would you go with? Any other ideas?
 

nater

Adventurer
I am surprised you are rubbing on the swaybar with a +19mm offset wheel and 37x13.5 tires... I am running 37x12.5's on my power wagon (2019), and no where close to the swaybar!

Do you have a picture of where you are rubbing?
 

Jack90

Member
Here are a some pics...
 

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nater

Adventurer
Interesting - a swaybar like Thuren's may give you more clearance there. Unless you are putting weight up high (ie, above the bed rails), I doubt you will experience any downsides other than a more comfy ride.
 

Regcabguy

Oil eater.
35's will be much easier on your drivetrain. Stay with an E anything. Keep the stock swaybar for your application. The stock shocks are junk. Upgrade them to Bilsteins at the least.
 

bajaphile

Member
I don't see it on your list, but if it were me, I'd probably just run 1" wheel adapters in the front, see if that fixed it without causing interference in the wheel well, then ordering a set of wheels with 0 offset?
 

billiebob

Well-known member
Plenty of offset already but if you add offset will the fenders still cover the tire?
If you have a rub on pavement turning into a driveway you'll have even more rub on mountain swithchbacks.
The common cure on Jeeps is to add a washer or two on the steering stops. Virtually free and zero safety concerns.

steer-stops01-1.jpg
 
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roving1

Well-known member
Plenty of offset already but if you add offset will the fenders still cover the tire?
If you have a rub on pavement turning into a driveway you'll have even more rub on mountain swithchbacks.
The common cure on Jeeps is to add a washer or two on the steering stops. Virtually free and zero safety concerns.

View attachment 653843

Yeah, I would gladly rather give up 2 degrees of steering than mess around with wheel spacers.
 

greengreer

Adventurer
You could always try ditching the sway bar. Easy enough to put back on if you feel you need it and then explore other more expensive options.

Also check out a tire load table. That 12.50 has a higher load rating at 50 psi (3525lbs) than the 13.50 has at 80 psi (3195lbs)
 
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Jack90

Member
Thank you everyone for the replies. I got the truck out into the mountains this weekend and came back with the feeling that all is good. Not once did I have a hard time turning on the switchbacks or tight turn around spots. Knowing that the rub will happen at full lock, I would simply just cut all the way to full lock and then back off the steering a couple degrees. Didn't bother me at all.

Was really happy to find there wasn't rubbing anywhere else as well.
IMG_0930.jpg
 

RCP

Member
My vote is you go to a 35x12.50R17LT E 121Q Nitto Ridge Grappler, but that's because I've got a set on my truck and I would happily trade you plus some cash on my end!
 

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