4M40 2.8TD and solid front axle into GEN1 Montero

[roaming knome]

Front axle service and cleanup

I could have used the stock front LC80 radius arms, but I didn't. It is very debatable how the stock front radius arms perform off-road and I'm sure they would have been perfectly fine for my intended use, buuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuut.................... well lets just say that there is room for improvement. The front is going to be linked, 4 link with trackbar to be exact. The stock mounts have already been chopped so no going back now.

 

[roaming knome]

more work on the front axle.

Link brackets welded on

The knuckle balls were pitted just a little so I cleaned them up a bit. They still have some pitting but much better in my opinion and nothing much I can do about it. I will just keep an eye on the seals do the necessary routine maintenance. If the pitting is too severe for the seal I might think about getting the CV looking boots for them which you can see here http://gearingdynamics.com.au/Split-CV-Boots-For-Toyota-LandCruiser-78/-79/-70/-80-Series

 

[roaming knome]

Front differential service

While the front differential was I serviced it as well. cleaned it up really well. There was some rust externally so I patiently masked off the inside parts blasted the outer casting. Washed it very well rinsing it out and scrubbing multiple times to make sure there was absolutely no grit or dust inside the oil passages, then it got a few coats of paint.
The ring and pinion were inspected for wear and chips. It passed my QC, I then proceeded to installed new pinion and carrier bearings. Finally set bearing carrier preload and set backlash to factory specs.

 

[roaming knome]

Front axle almost finished, just need to finish welding the trackbar mount and steering knuckle stops and then a few coats of paint. I reassembled with new hardware, new drilled and slotted brake rotors, new rebuilt calipers, and steel braided brake lines.

 

[roaming knome]

I just rolled over to 210,000km. It uses a slight bit of oil and leaks a little out of the cap. Maybe a half litre between changes, maybe. I've blanked the EGR, 2" straight pipe (slight baffle) right from the turbo, and have turbo timer, EGT gauge, oil pressure and boost gauges. Starting in the winter can be rough obviously but other than that she purrs like a kitten. I get average 12L/100km mixed driving with 31" tires and NO roof basket!

I know you didn't ask, but there's my input on the 4m40!

How is it going to be geared? I can cruise at 110kph comfortably, but any more than that it starts to suck down fuel.

Thanks for posting! I always like to hear about other peoples experiences with these engines and vehicles. I think they are great engines but like anything else you just have to take care of them and keep them up maintenance wise.
I plan on keeping the gearing stock and as of now plan to use 33" tires in the 255/80R17 or I might trade my current wheels (17") for some 16" and run 255/85R16 or 285/75/R16. I figure with added torque of this engine it should not have trouble turning that size rubber with 4:10 gears. I do want to keep my cruising speed at 70-75mph while still maintaining decent mpg. At this point I'm still dreaming and hopefully not too far from reality.

 

[roaming knome]

The output shaft that connects to your T-case was what I was referring to, the toy 23 spline and mitsu 23 spline are different. There's a good writeup on swapping those parts on the TLC forum somewhere about swapping a Mitsu 4D34 into an 80 series.

Thanks for the info, I appreciate it! I don't think that will be a problem since I am using the complete Toyota trans, t-case, driveshafts (front+rear), and axles. Or I may just not understand or am not piecing what you say correctly. If and when I come that roadblock I will search for that.

 

[jeep-N-montero]

Holy cow you work fast, and you set up your own gears, very impressed. Are you just using the stock upper spring mounts from the LC?

 

[roaming knome]

Holy cow you work fast, and you set up your own gears, very impressed. Are you just using the stock upper spring mounts from the LC?

HA! I wish I could work that fast. This project is going on 2yrs now, I have only decided to start a thread here on the portal now. I know how it goes when I follow a build from someone else and then there is no update for months on end or even a year! I then feel like fiending crackhead waiting for my next fix and I just couldn't do that to you guys. I felt that I am far enough along, done a lot of work and accumulated enough parts that I could keep my momentum up.
I have done a couple other builds mainly toyota trucks but I mainly enjoy doing my own work. If I don't know how to do I learn, But I have done ring and pinions before and even made my own tools to do them. I will post some photos so if you decide to do your own ring and pinion they might help you. Having the right tool for the job is imperative, the rest is common sense and tools. If you cant afford the tools then make them, that is exactly what I did.

I am actually using upper coil spring brackets from a Land Rover Defender. I am also using Land Rover coils. the lower spring mounts are ballistic fabrications mounts and I am bolting the Land Rover lower coil spring plates to them. I chose to go this route because the stock Land cruiser coil spring mounts are unobtainium if you dont have a connection with a body shop. I tried calling wrecking yards in my area to see if they would cut them off of a wrecked vehicle and they though I was crazy for requesting such a part. I think that required "work" to cut them off and they were unwilling to do so. By the way the Land Rover units are good quality and if you buy or fab your own shock towers you can have a compact suspension package that is easily serviceable and parts readily available. Others may disagree with me but it works for me. I will be using 10" travel smooth body 2.0" fox dampers.

 

[jeep-N-montero]

HA! I wish I could work that fast. This project is going on 2yrs now, I have only decided to start a thread here on the portal now. I know how it goes when I follow a build from someone else and then there is no update for months on end or even a year! I then feel like fiending crackhead waiting for my next fix and I just couldn't do that to you guys. I felt that I am far enough along, done a lot of work and accumulated enough parts that I could keep my momentum up.
I have done a couple other builds mainly toyota trucks but I mainly enjoy doing my own work. If I don't know how to do I learn, But I have done ring and pinions before and even made my own tools to do them. I will post some photos so if you decide to do your own ring and pinion they might help you. Having the right tool for the job is imperative, the rest is common sense and tools. If you cant afford the tools then make them, that is exactly what I did.

I am actually using upper coil spring brackets from a Land Rover Defender. I am also using Land Rover coils. the lower spring mounts are ballistic fabrications mounts and I am bolting the Land Rover lower coil spring plates to them. I chose to go this route because the stock Land cruiser coil spring mounts are unobtainium if you dont have a connection with a body shop. I tried calling wrecking yards in my area to see if they would cut them off of a wrecked vehicle and they though I was crazy for requesting such a part. I think that required "work" to cut them off and they were unwilling to do so. By the way the Land Rover units are good quality and if you buy or fab your own shock towers you can have a compact suspension package that is easily serviceable and parts readily available. Others may disagree with me but it works for me. I will be using 10" travel smooth body 2.0" fox dampers.

Too bad you aren't closer, I can do anything on my rigs but haven't ever messed with gears, most local guys will not touch used gears except for in Jeep axles. Are the LR brackets bolt on or did you have to cut them off?

 

[JamesW]

Thanks for posting! I always like to hear about other peoples experiences with these engines and vehicles. I think they are great engines but like anything else you just have to take care of them and keep them up maintenance wise.
I plan on keeping the gearing stock and as of now plan to use 33" tires in the 255/80R17 or I might trade my current wheels (17") for some 16" and run 255/85R16 or 285/75/R16. I figure with added torque of this engine it should not have trouble turning that size rubber with 4:10 gears. I do want to keep my cruising speed at 70-75mph while still maintaining decent mpg. At this point I'm still dreaming and hopefully not too far from reality.

You'll be bankrupted if you drive at 75mph with a 2.8td,mine will cruise at that speed,but the fuel gauge moves even faster,at 50mph I can get about 26 - 30 UK MPG which isn't awful really. Mine has been ever so slightly tweaked with the boost and fuelling turned up,EGR blanked, 2.5" stainless exhaust and a more breathy intake,absolutely craps all over a standard one,wouldn't mind hard pipes for the intercooler,and maybe an alisport intercooler,but the money:horsepower ratio is pretty poor there. It drives ok with 4.875 diffs and 35x11.5 bias ply tyres,though it refuses to go beyond 55mph.

Intercooler is very important,had mine bypassed for a test drive and it felt like it had only 50bhp. Mine cracked the head last year and I picked up a new engine and swapped it in,the old engine was burning a serious amount of oil because the rocker cover bung fell out and it ran low on oil,it was never the same since. I'm meaning to rebuild it with new rings and bearings,but at the same time I half can't be bothered.

It's a good engine,but the head will crack if it gets anywhere close to warm,same with quite a few diesels from that era. Personally I wouldn't transplant a perfectly good petrol one for it,but I can appreciate the desire to do it as a project

 

[roaming knome]

Too bad you aren't closer, I can do anything on my rigs but haven't ever messed with gears, most local guys will not touch used gears except for in Jeep axles. Are the LR brackets bolt on or did you have to cut them off?

Stock gears are not too bad to work on or with. If the ring gear runout is within tolerance and not warped it is very easy. same goes for pinion bearing press fit surfaces, if they are ok and within spec they are usually good.
The LR coil brackets are new weld-on units. they are sold as a stock shelf item as is any other body mount, tab or suspension bracket that is welded to LR frames. I suppose it is due to the LR frames rusting so quickly? There are a couple suppliers here in the US and a ton of suppliers in the UK. I bought mine from Rovers North and I think they were right around $45-50 each?

 

[roaming knome]

You'll be bankrupted if you drive at 75mph with a 2.8td,mine will cruise at that speed,but the fuel gauge moves even faster,at 50mph I can get about 26 - 30 UK MPG which isn't awful really. Mine has been ever so slightly tweaked with the boost and fuelling turned up,EGR blanked, 2.5" stainless exhaust and a more breathy intake,absolutely craps all over a standard one,wouldn't mind hard pipes for the intercooler,and maybe an alisport intercooler,but the money:horsepower ratio is pretty poor there. It drives ok with 4.875 diffs and 35x11.5 bias ply tyres,though it refuses to go beyond 55mph.

Intercooler is very important,had mine bypassed for a test drive and it felt like it had only 50bhp. Mine cracked the head last year and I picked up a new engine and swapped it in,the old engine was burning a serious amount of oil because the rocker cover bung fell out and it ran low on oil,it was never the same since. I'm meaning to rebuild it with new rings and bearings,but at the same time I half can't be bothered.

It's a good engine,but the head will crack if it gets anywhere close to warm,same with quite a few diesels from that era. Personally I wouldn't transplant a perfectly good petrol one for it,but I can appreciate the desire to do it as a project

With this project I am already bankrupt and I have not even hit the gas pedal once or moved a US or UK mile! Thanks for the info,always appreciated. I know all about the issue with cracking heads on these engines. I will of course get a pyro meter and keep a close eye on the EGT's.
I do plan on keeping the intercooler and doing everything I can to keep the engine running as efficient as possible, possible EGR blank and maybe some pump tuning. I am first just going to focus on getting it in and finished.

When I first bought my Montero I purchased it for $800 with rod knock so I already knew I was going to have to rebuild/replace the engine. I replaced the engine (same 3.0L v6 6G72) and it ran very well for a good while. I agree it is a good engine as well but lacks on power and efficiency/economy. I would not call it a perfectly good petrol engine. It now burns oil, has a couple small leaks, and hydraulic lifter clicking which all things are not really a big deal at all and there is plenty of info on these forums to do all the repairs yourself, or in this case myself. but I didn't want to mess with the 6G72 engine anymore. I wanted to move on but not from the Montero. I really love everything about this midsized Japanese SUV, and compared to American SUV's I consider it midsized or even small. I guess everyones opinions are and will be different. I researched engine options and didn't want to do the ever so common 4BT, there were 2 options the 4D56 or 4M40. Everyplace I read said that the 4M40 had much more power than the 4D56 counterpart so I opted for the 4M40 mechanical pump version of course. I just love how simple it is and I didn't want to get into the electrical logistical nightmare with trying to wire in the ECU. I already will have my hands full with the electronic controlled trans if my plan blows up in my face. I will get it to work but it may just take me much longer to figure it out compared to others as electrical is not one of my strengths. For now I will just keep thinking that I'm making the right choices and everything will bolt right up and plug in perfectly. :sombrero: :smiley_drive:

 

[roaming knome]

Update 10/12/14: Front end disassembly

Today I disassembled the front end. The front axle and suspension are out. This week I will have the engine and trans out. I will then test mount the 4M40 to see if I will have to cut and move the engine mounts forward. I will most likely have to put in a 1-2" bodylift to clear the A343F transmission the Mitsubishi KM148 is tiny compared to it!
List of things to do this week:

1) Remove engine and transmission
2) Cut IFS mounts/brackets and clean up frame
3) Test mount 4M40 engine
4) If I have time this week, modify the existing transmission cross member or start to design a new one.

I will post up some photos in the next couple of days.

If anyone is interested or needs any stock Gen1 Montero front suspension parts, engine (3.0L v6 6g72), or axles let me know. If not they will go up in the classifieds.

 

[jeep-N-montero]

Are you going to run a radius or linked setup?

 

[roaming knome]

Are you going to run a radius or linked setup?

it is going to be linked, front and rear 4 link with trackbar.