83 Suburban 6.2 Project

bfdiesel

Explorer
Here is my most recent project out on its first picnic(wife's b-day).
It is a 6.2 diesel that I am running on home made bio diesel. We are affectionately calling it the bacon mobile since I use waste lard to make the bio.
I have converted it from a 700R4 (blown front pump and no 3rd or 4th) np208 to a sm465 np205 with a custom hydro clutch.
My next plans are to build a rack and bumpers for it, also I have 33's I am going to put on it so I am thinking maybe a lift as well. Not sure between 2" or 4" I might wait and see what it looks like on the tires before I decide.
Any ideas on the rack or lifting are welcome.
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bftank

Explorer
glad to see you out enjoying it finally. tell the wife i said happy bday. you need to enter the running board removal program before you do bumpers and rack:sombrero:

for the rack are you wanting to build off of a stock one? mine could be up for grabs.

good to see you on here!

ps i vote no lift only cutty cutty:smiley_drive:
 

87burban

Observer
I love burbans , big, tuff and very agile for the size truck they are. I miss mine but i would have loved to have a 6.2 diesel under the hood. I would have kept it if it did. I did a lot of trails that other people thought my burb would never go threw lol Showed them up good.
 

bfdiesel

Explorer
I was thinking build the rack from scratch, but I am open to building off a stock one. I want to mount plates to the roof then bolt/pin the rack to the plates that way if it needs to be taken off for some reason it can easily.
I need to get the pass side ball joints replaced so I can get it aligned and put the 33's on and see how it sets.
I dragged the winch pulling into subway so I need to get the front bumper made so I can put it there and not drag it again.
The running boards will one way or another get removed. Yes rocks are one way.
 

bfdiesel

Explorer
That would be correct. I traded an air compressor I got for free for it and replace all the solenoids, put new cables on it and built the box it is in. My dad also has one that he has had since as far back as I can remember and he is not nice to equipment like that.
 

Dave Kay

Adventurer
Hey now, like the Suburbans alot, but what (if any) are it's limitations on the trail? Seen a few on here that are fairly moddified and they look capable. But I was thinking maybe a 'Burban body swap to an M1008 chassis would make it just about ideal, no?

Also, curious how many miles running biodiesel on that 6.2? Are you running B-100 mixture? (non diluted) Any issues/problems? I've got an 84-86 J-motor w/79K miles on it but haven't done much driving to report any issues. Also, I buy commercial grade B-20 and so far so good--- haven't changed the fuel filter in over 4000 miles, how about your 6.2?

Good luck!
 

bftank

Explorer
the frames on the suburban and the longbed one ton yours is based off of are very different. the subs frame is flat between the axles and the longbed frame kicks up right under the rear of the cab. you would be better off swapping your drivetrain into the suburban.

the burbs only limitations are there size.

i will let bf diesel answer the questions about the bio though. i don't think he's been running it very long. he just barely got it driveable. he has been using the biodiesel for a couple years in other rigs though.

ps: op i updated my sig just for you, geez.
 

bfdiesel

Explorer
I have had no issues so far on bio. The motor seems to run stronger now that it has run it for a couple hundred miles (cleaned everything out). I run b100 in the summer and we will see this winter what mix I end up using. I plugged the first set of filters really quick like 7 miles. The set I am on now (#2) have about 400 miles on them and are still doing good. I have been changing out the fuel lines to 30R9 rated especially down stream of the secondary filter. There is a chunk of 1/4" hose that if it starts to degrade will end up in the injection pump.

B20 shouldn't plug filters much more than regular ol #2 diesel. The bio is too diluted to clean the system like higher ratios of bio will.

My experience with bio is that HPCR don't like bio as much as older tech injection systems and my theory is that it polymerizes some of bio and then pushes it through the injector leading to premature wear. Polymerization happens when oxidized bio is squeezed >22kpsi. Older injection systems usually don't squeeze fuel to that kind of pressure.
 

Dave Kay

Adventurer
I am thinking of putting a lock right in the front axle. Does anyone have experience with these?

http://www.richmondgear.com/powertrax/lockright.html

Thanks for the B100 report, I'll probably stick with B20 for now until I'm ready to start replacing w/new fuel system components, e., g., the whole enchilada!:sombrero:

I figure you've probably read-up on this but to comment; these sound like reincarnation of the old Detroit Locker from early-late 1980's. Got one installed on rear-axle of my C-20 camper/desert/beater (years ago) and driving with it offroad--- it's fantastic. Got me through everything and anything that the open diffed Toyotle-Rover-Soccer-Mom-Mobiles had to go around. I can honestly say that if you know your rigs limitations these lockers will not let you down and leave you red-faced.

Street-wise they are another story; as it says in that description--- "While traveling straight the LOCK-RIGHT will lock the axles together similar to a spool." Which it actually does as long as you are accelerating. Once you let off the gas, and depending on if you are in a turn or a long curve in the road, one or BOTH axles may UNLOCK and as soon as you get into the throttle again both axles will lock right up. In the rear of a vehicle that's no big deal and even if it feels/sounds like a loud clunk, that's ok, it's just doing its job.

On pavement and installed on a FRONT AXLE though, this lock/unlock thing might be an issue. Some say it's downright dangerous in wet/icy road conditions. I'll leave that up to the beholder and also add that AGAIN, if you know your rig and it's limitations... yep!
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Generally any of the full time lockers behave about the same in a front application.

-With the hubs unlocked you won't notice
-With the hubs locked but NOT in 4wd you may have a VERY slight increase in steering pressure depending on drag in the system. All in all, in something heavy your not going to notice.
-While in 4wd you ARE going to notice. The steering will become heavier and you have to get a little better 'bumping' the throttle to disengage the locker sometimes. Also, in some slick conditions you may have to drive with a little more ( or less ) throttle to keep the front end doing what you want.
-You WILL generally increase your turning circle with a front locker

Bottom line...the extra traction is worth it. You will need to learn to drive with it.

Do you have anything in the rear yet? Are you planning on it?

Is an selectable locker worth it.....maybe. I just don't know if its worth the extra money. That is a personal choice for everyone.

One of my all time favorite combos is an auto-locker front AND rear combined with a transfer case that can be modified to allow independent control of the front and rear axle ( NP205, D300, D20, Atlas, etc ). This allows you to have really fun things like front wheel drive low, rear low only, etc. I think this generally makes up for a LOT of the short comings that may be present with auto lockers....
 

bfdiesel

Explorer
Nothing in the rear yet, but I am keeping an eye open for a stock AAM with an elocker and 4.10 gears. Hopefully I see one when I have money to do more than just stare at it. Even a 14 bolt ff with the g80 and discs would be nice though.

The extra money and set up is what has me thinking lock right. Selectable would be nice and hands down if cost and set up time was not an issue. Course if money was not the issue a lot of things would happen differently.

bftank mentioned modifying the 205 shift lever to levers when I picked it up from him.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
The shift rails in the NP205 need a little modification to allow the different selection options also. Then with the twin stick shifter setup you can do all kinda of fun things.
With the longer wheelbase front or rear low range 'dig' can be REALLY handy. Its also really nice to be able to take the bind out between the front and rear axles....

I agree on the cost for sure. A selectable locker is generally about twice the cost as an automatic locker.
 

bfdiesel

Explorer
Got my 255/85 tires on. Looks good and rides much better also drop the rpm on the highway a lot I can even hear that I have a radio now. The running boards will be coming off tonight if I get off work early enough also I will get some pictures either tonight or tomorrow
 

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