A little overwhelming...

Jwestpro

Explorer
Also, this is more in line with the mods stuff, but have any of you replaced your interior and/or exterior lights with LED bulbs for energy conservation? Is it that simple of changing bulbs or would these mods require soldering/tinkering, etc? Is this even a "safe" idea given the LR3's finicky electrical nature? Thought I read on another blog about only using OEM bulbs for rear taillights, or it could/would throw a fault?

I have heard something about the exterior bulbs too but can't remember. You first need to say WHY you want to change any bulbs. If they all work, then why "fix" what isn't "broken"?

My reasons may differ vastly from yours but I can assure you that my situation is different to start with even if you have the same goals, because of the electrical mods on mine:

1st, before the LED craze, I found no reason to change out lamps. It was all new after all and they should last for years, and they did.
2-During the first month of ownership, as part of extensive modifications, I had a 2nd battery installed and at the same time, re-powered all of the "outboard" dome lamps to the 2nd battery. (this means that in the front row, 2nd row where you see 3 buttons for 3 lamps, left, middle, right, I had the left and right lamps run off the 2nd battery.)

Why? When you open the doors, the center dome lights come on, or all, I don't remember. BUT, you can hold the front center button for a few seconds to keep anything from coming on when doors open/close. (it's in the manual). Sometimes I like the auto on to work, sometimes not. Next, for actual camping, I wanted to know that what I turn on, only draws from the house battery. Hence, the outboard lights only. Press on, they stay on until battery dead, period ;) But they won't because it's a 200 AH Odyssey 2150 that never goes dead, ever. ;)

This worked flawlessly for several years. Then while looking at ways I could also reduce the draw on my starter battery and the auto-on interior lights, like footwell, door bottoms, etc, I figured LED all around would be a great benefit.

So with the LED sickness infecting me now...I changed all of the interior lamps to LED except the 3rd row side reading rocker switch lamp. It only comes on when you press it and I only use it when interior "camping" so there's no concern over its amp draw when doors open, etc. Also, I really prefer the soft warm glow of incandescent over LED for actual reading if I'm hanging out back there.

There are "puddle" lamps in each door, the tailgate lamp, front footwell, and domes. It's brighter too I think so that's not so bad seeing as only one on does the job of previous 2 and the amp draw is still a fraction.

I also have 3 additional 12v sockets and the left one up front run from the house battery. This way there "always hot" 12v one left of "ash tray", 1 at 3rd row cup holder and 1 each side at very end of cargo cubby shelf. These are so convenient for things like recharging a headlamp, phone, camp lamp, 12v fridge, etc.

A 120v inverter is a nice idea too for powering bigger things like a large laptop or ski boot dryer... ;)

Overall though, knowing how to use the "hunting" feature of turning off the auto interior lights is the first thing to do. Leaving the radio on multiple times while loading for a trip all day is one sure way to find your battery dead the moment you try to leave....so, keep that in mind. Having a battery charger on it is not a bad routine.
 

A.J.M

Explorer
I would echo Nwoods.

Check the battery, the date of build will likely be on the - terminal. Anything over 4 years, i would change. D3s LOVE good power supply, a dying but still working battery can throw up all sorts of error codes, faults etc. When mine was dying, it would say on start up that i had no special programmes, hdc fault, transmission faults etc.

Also make sure the alternator is good. Same as above for what can happen when they fail.

Otherwise. Usual wear points are, front lowers, steering arms and track rod ends, arb bushes and the steering lower joint. If it knocks or clunks over bumps or braking from the front. Some of the parts mentioned have wear.

Rears have rear arb bushes, rear uppers and the hub bushes x4.

Please note, for the front lowers, the mk1 RRS arms are a good upgrade, the bush design is better and the ball joint is slightly larger, 37mm instead of 35mm. They are what the armoured D3 models are fitted with and what D4 models have.
The RRS rear upper arms are also a good upgrade, better bush design again for better life span.

They do make the ride a touch harder, but tbh, over 25k with them fitted, i've not bothered with it.

Also, wheel alignment. Get a good shop that can do it properly, you may find the rear arm bolts are seized so they can't do a full alignment. That will likely depend on where the car's lived. Here in Scotland, bolts go rusty and seize making jobs hard to do.
I've renewed all the arms on mine so it aligns properly on a "Hunter" alignment machine.

All this can get checked at the shop.

Please. PLEASE. Don;t scimp on parts, don't fit cheap parts to it, get good parts or OEM if possible. Trust me.
 

StreetsofCompton

Adventurer
Don, JWest and AJM, thanks for sharing your experiences and thoughts on this stuff. Super valuable information!

Having just got home from an overnight shift, I'm about 90 minutes from driving the new (unnamed toy) home. Pics coming soon!
 
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StreetsofCompton

Adventurer
My nephew took me to pick up the black LR3 today. Took him to bfast in Inman Park afterwards and stumbled on seeing these other two in the parking lot. Family Reunion, haha! Great first outing in the truck. I've seen the green one around town at various places, rollin on Cooper Zeons.
http://imgur.com/1ZwOjAS
 

StreetsofCompton

Adventurer
Well thats quite a name for the running boards...unfortunately, mine have them too. Didn't realize how unnecessary they are when using "Access" height.
 

Jwestpro

Explorer
Well thats quite a name for the running boards...unfortunately, mine have them too. Didn't realize how unnecessary they are when using "Access" height.

They can be easily removed if you choose to and likely would sell for decent amount on ebay or a forum with some owners who are less into 4x4 and more into access for family.
 

Ray_G

Explorer
Throw them on eBay, someone will buy them in a heartbeat. Shame shipping overseas costs so much-the guys on D3.uk are always adding them on. Funny how I always look at them as a good sign the truck has never been wheeled and take them off immediately.
 

A.J.M

Explorer
The factory side steps are pretty tough.

I used mine as rock sliders for a while before I got a proper set bought. Just had to get a few fat mates to jump on them to bend them back into shape at the end of the day.

I do miss mine for getting in/out the car. Short ******** problems I know.
 

LR Max

Local Oaf
Nice. Congrats!

Yeah ditch the running boards. They'll just get torn up.

Nwoods is right on the dot with everything he said.
 

StreetsofCompton

Adventurer
Good news people! I found a local dealer on Craigslist who had two LR3 SE's for sale. I emailed him about swapping my 19's for his 18's and explained why I wanted to do so. He agreed:wings: Got them swapped on Wednesday, and ever since I've been pondering all of my tire options. I've settled on using Kauffman Tire, because of a promo they are running during football season. I'm assuming they're doing this in most NFL markets, but here in Atlanta, they will give a $40 discount for each quarter the Falcons score in a game. i.e. ATL scored in the 1st, 2nd and 4th quarters Monday night. That would have been a $120 discount, valid only the following day. Can be applied in conjunction with manufacturers rebates as well. Pretty sweet, basically equating to a free tire when its said and done. With that said, was hoping to get some feedback on what you guys would recommend. Here are my options after narrowing them down...

285/60/18
BFG KO2
Cooper Zeon LTZ
Toyo OC A/T II

265/65/18
Michelin LTX A/T2
Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs
Cooper Discoverer AT3
Toyo OC A/T II
BFG KO2

Again, the majority of our LR3 miles will come on pavement but I'm looking for overall capability off-road (including potential mud here in the South), strong sidewalls, on the lighter weight scale. I ruled out the General Grabber's based on a 20lb difference from the KO2's.
 

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