Aluminum wheels stronger than steelies..

adventureduo

Dave Druck [KI6LBB]
I've been wheel shopping for our 10,000 lbs Sportsmobile. I never knew this... but while shopping i noticed that all the steelies are good to say 2200lbs vs the Aluminum wheels rated same size for 3200 lbs.

I always thought it was the other way around. :confused:

Engineer experts.... why is this? (in Layman's terms please :elkgrin: )
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Dave

It's my understanding that steel rims are stronger than aluminum if your looking at the same design only different materials.

The aluminum rims may be stronger in the sense that they can support more weight because of the fact they can be cast into stronger CAD designed shapes, or the fact that the aluminum rims can be thicker than the steel rims offering greater strength at the same or less weight than steel rims.
 

Atticus_1354

Adventurer
One thing to consider when wheel shopping is how likely you are to hit your wheel hard on a rock. I have seen steel wheels banged back in to and hold until off the trail. But if you come down hard on an aluminum wheel it will break and not bend. Of course you should have a fullsize spare, but it is something to consider before choosing.
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
That has come up in the past and I'd like to point out that as a blanket statement that it is in error. Not all aluminum wheels are cast, and not all cast aluminum wheels are brittle. A brittle condition is required for the catastrophic failure that this myth predicts.
It might have been true perhaps back in the 1960's, but I have been part of straightening an aluminum wheel in the field. It can be done and it works. I know of one set of American Racing Outlaw II's that saw over 10 years of hard core desert pre-running combined with occasional camping trip and DD use. Age (fatigue life) finally got them replaced, not catastrophic failure.

To answer the question, I think Martyn has it nailed. Geometry, the shape of the part has so much to do with the basic strength of the design. I think that lateral loading would be the aspect that is the most limiting in terms of establishing a wheel's weight rating. It is hard to economically form a steel wheel to have a high lateral stiffness, but pretty easy to forge or cast an aluminum wheel to have it.
 

Atticus_1354

Adventurer
Consider me educated. I was just going off of what I have seen. I helped bang on a steel wheel to reshape it and have seen an aluminum wheel break after going sideways in to a curb. So I guess I should say avoid crappy cast aluminum wheels.

ntsqd said:
That has come up in the past and I'd like to point out that as a blanket statement that it is in error.
 

7wt

Expedition Leader
I always thought that aluminum wheels were stronger but more brittle. The only advantage I see in steelies is their ability to be hammered out if dented.
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
I wouldn't go so far as to say that it can't happen to aluminum wheels, just that it isn't going to happen every time one hits something. A fair number of OE wheels are now castings. I believe that they are "high pressure" castings, but I've no knowledge that they are. Early cast wheels probably earned their reputation, but it just isn't true any more.
I have hammered bent aluminum wheels back into shape. I've seen an Alcoa forged M/T Classic bent so badly that it could not be balanced yet you could not tell from looking at it unless it was moving.
I've also seen Centerlines bend so far as to loose their tire, only to be straightened back into racing service.

I probably wouldn't put aluminum on a dedicated rock crawler, but I wouldn't drive an Overlander very far on steels.
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
ntsqd said:
To answer the question, I think Martyn has it nailed. Geometry, the shape of the part has so much to do with the basic strength of the design. I think that lateral loading would be the aspect that is the most limiting in terms of establishing a wheel's weight rating. It is hard to economically form a steel wheel to have a high lateral stiffness, but pretty easy to forge or cast an aluminum wheel to have it.

I'd like to buy a vowel :victory:
 

madizell

Explorer
Steel is an alloy that can also be cast and forged, just as aluminum alloy can be cast and forged, into shapes that would do a better job of suffering lateral loads. But I don't know of anyone making cast steel wheels for cars. It is simply cheaper and easier to make them from stampings.

Steel can also be quite brittle, depending on how it is alloyed. Comparing "steel" wheels to "aluminum" wheels is an apples/oranges comparison because you are not comparing metals of known alloy.

I have also had aluminum wheels straightened after being bent, and I have had one bent sharply enough to crack the rim, but it, too, was repairable. On the other hand, I have had steel wheels bent sufficiently that they could not be straightened.

Hot rolled mild steel is more malleable than cast aluminum, which supports the general notion that steel wheels can be field repaired, and so they can for the most part. However, a sharply bent steel wheel, even if hammered back into round enough to hold air, will have been structurally compromised to some degree. Just hammering on the metal will change its molecular structure, and will usually make it more brittle. I would make no assumptions about the usefulness of a field repaired steel wheel based only on the fact that it is made of steel.

I believe it is a matter of personal preference which type wheel you use, but I would suggest that whatever you choose, choose one that is rated to carry the load you have, and then some, if you take your vehicle off road, and stay away from bling-oriented street wheels, as these are usually not made to take the side loads and stress that off roading produces. Consider that we often spend a great deal of time looking for tires that have load ratings of 3,000 pounds or more each (D and E rated), then mount them on wheels that are rated for half or two thirds of that load. There is no sense in this.
 

adventureduo

Dave Druck [KI6LBB]
Yeah i've already chose a wheel that supports 3200 lbs and a tire that supports 3195 lbs also. Mogas, just about man.. there's some guys that are up to almost 12,000 lbs. They're not light weight thats for sure!
 

boblynch

Adventurer
What tire are you looking to run on the SB? Also, what wheel size and bolt pattern does that year SB use? I'm sure we can track down suitable wheel options.
 

Guinness44

Adventurer
Hummerproducts.com.
Cepek wheels, 4500 lbs load cap. and he makes them for other brands. Just call, you will get good service.
 

soonenough

Explorer
madizell said:
I believe it is a matter of personal preference which type wheel you use, but I would suggest that whatever you choose, choose one that is rated to carry the load you have, and then some, if you take your vehicle off road...Consider that we often spend a great deal of time looking for tires that have load ratings of 3,000 pounds or more each (D and E rated), then mount them on wheels that are rated for half or two thirds of that load. There is no sense in this.
Somewhat off topic, but does anyone know where the weight rating information for a wheel can be found? Is it stamped somewhere on the wheel like it is on a tire? I've never looked that closely at any of the markings on the inside of my stock wheels, but I would like to know their weight rating.
 

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