AMP-L-START compatible with Battleborn lithium batteries?

[jeegro]

Having an ML already in place that will last forever, and pulling it out because it will standup to higher amps than you currently use?

Setpoint already going to work too, so really?

And yes side discussions do not necessarily apply to the specifics of the OP.

Looking for good relays at a reasonable price myself, lots of junk out there, definitely avoid consumer-level junk though, Digi, Mouser, element14 are all trustworthy.

I took it out because it was between my two AGM starting batteries in the front. With a lithium house, didn't really see a need to separate the batteries in the front anymore, so I took it out and now parallel the two Odyssey's under the hood.

Have you re-routed alt output to House?

Curious what did you get for the ML? Rarely seen at much discount even used

Alt output is on the starting batteries. I don't want to charge the lithium directly with the alt, that's the BCDC's job.

I sold it here on the forum for $180 - model 7622 - including my harness cables I made for it. So yeah.. good resale value considering they sell for $190 new.

FWIW: BlueSea ACR: Combine - 13v, Separate - 12.75v

Yep, so wouldn't work for lithium.

 

[john61ct]

I took it out because it was between my two AGM starting batteries in the front.

Coulda been repurposed, but getting 90% back no worries.

Alt output is on the starting batteries. I don't want to charge the lithium directly with the alt, that's the BCDC's job.

So what do you need a VSR for?

 

[john61ct]

FWIW: BlueSea ACR: Combine - 13v, Separate - 12.75v

Pretty sure ML version has a higher setpoint

 

[DiploStrat]

Nope. Blue Sea: https://www.bluesea.com/products/76...rging_Relay_with_Manual_Control_-_12V_DC_500A

Relay Contact Position
Combine 30 sec	13.5V
Combine 90 sec	13.0V
Open 10 sec	12.35V
Open 30 sec	12.75V
Open High	16.2V

 

[john61ct]

Ah the 13.5V is for more transient, 30sec

 

[jeegro]

One last piece of the puzzle to solve.

I want to use a Blue Sea SPDT switch (same switch that ML-ACR's come with), to control the SBC.

ON = force connect batteries. AUTO = let SBC do its thing, but if engine is running, disable SBC. OFF = do not allow batteries to be connected.

No clue how to do this.

Here is the pinout of the switch.

I think I would have to employ the solenoid feature of the SBC... adding yet another component.

The SBC switches ground to control the solenoid, the ignition switches positive (no voltage = allow SBC to operate, positive voltage = disable SBC).


I'm basically doing a DIY ML-ACR with custom voltage setpoints...

 

[DiploStrat]

Dude, ya gotta take a break!

This is a trickle charge circuit, it is not a self jump circuit. If you want a self jump capacity, then, depending on the distance between your camper battery and the starter battery, you are back to wiring up with ultra heavy cable.

If you want to add a manual control of the diagram that I sent you, simply put a switch in the leg that connects to your ignition. Or use a crossover switch and connect to an independent 12v source.

If you want to completely override the SBC AND add the capacity to switch a couple of hundred amps, you can do this. (This is the circuit from my Tiger. And yes, it works.)

But what are you trying to do? Sort of feels like you are creating cures for which there are no diseases.

Methinks you need to consult with a qualified auto electrician, preferably the one who will actually do the work.

 

[jeegro]

I know.. I know.

Originally I wanted to add a simple switch to disable the SBC in case I want to do a controlled charge of the lithium battery, or if there was a problem with the SBC. So I started researching switches and didn't like any of them, so I decided the ML-ACR switch would look good, and have a bonus extra feature of FORCE ON mode. I don't need or want jumpstart capability, just trickle charge, but I couldn't think of any way to add manual override of the SBC without using an external solenoid, as shown in your picture above.

So before you posted, I had a moment of clarity and figured out how to do it (attached)


But I really don't want to add the solenoid, I like the idea of limiting the current to 25 amps and keeping things simpler. So I think I have to sacrifice the FORCE ON mode and instead use this switch: https://www.bluesea.com/products/2155/SPDT_Remote_Control_Contura_Switch_-_ON-ON

Which will let me force apply "ignition power" to open the relay, thus disconnecting the SBC.

 

[DiploStrat]

I know.. I know.

Originally I wanted to add a simple switch to disable the SBC in case I want to do a controlled charge of the lithium battery, or if there was a problem with the SBC. So I started researching switches and didn't like any of them, so I decided the ML-ACR switch would look good, and have a bonus extra feature of FORCE ON mode. I don't need or want jumpstart capability, just trickle charge, but I couldn't think of any way to add manual override of the SBC without using an external solenoid, as shown in your picture above.

So before you posted, I had a moment of clarity and figured out how to do it (attached)


But I really don't want to add the solenoid, I like the idea of limiting the current to 25 amps and keeping things simpler. So I think I have to sacrifice the FORCE ON mode and instead use this switch: https://www.bluesea.com/products/2155/SPDT_Remote_Control_Contura_Switch_-_ON-ON

Which will let me force apply "ignition power" to open the relay, thus disconnecting the SBC.

Again, you are creating cures for non-existent diseases.

-- "Controlled Charge"?? That is what the BCDC will do all by itself.
-- Problem with the SBC? It will stop working.
-- The switch with the ML-ACR has no mojo - it is just a switch. Any magic is in the ML-ACR.
-- The SBC doesn't limit anything. 25A is all it will pass. The limitation is caused by the size of the wire you use. (And the difference, or lack thereof, in voltage between the two batteries.)
-- Want to keep the SBC from working? Simply add 12v to the controlling relay. (Exactly what happens when you switch on the ignition.)
-- Want to force a trickle charge to the starter battery when the SBC won't do it? Just run a wire between the two batteries and put a switch on it. The size of the wire will determine how many amps you can pass.

None of this is hard, but again, what are you trying to do? (Any why?)

And with that snark I will step back and let others play!

EDITED TO ADD: Sorry if this came across as too snarky. It is your truck and you should set it up the way you want. (And besides, with my Twisted Sister (tm) set up, I am no one to complain about others being a bit obsessive!)

 

[jeegro]

All good, I just wanted the option to easily disable the SBC circuit because Redarc, Battleborn, and Magnum all told me it "should" work, but they weren't sure. Got a little carried away with trying to implement the ON/AUTO/OFF switch.

I'll go with a simple switch on the relay

I have most all the parts now, so the build will begin soon

 

[DiploStrat]

Remember, this beast works backwards. To kill it, you either have to provide 12v to the relay OR simply open one leg of the circuit through the SBC.

If you want a simple kill switch, put it on the actual load circuit though the SBC.

Free advice, worth what you paid for it.

 

[jeegro]

I have everything wired up, details in a separate thread if anyone is interested.

It looks like I need to break the alternator to BCDC connection whenever the SBC is on. Right now I have the alternator hardwired to the BCDC. When the magnum connects (truck off, solar on), the BCDC starts buzzing like a fly, with both alternator and solar lights on -meaning the BCDC is trying to charge from both starter battery and solar - don't want that. Any idea what the rapid buzzing is? Can't be good. The current as shown on my battery monitor keeps swinging negative to positive amps rapidly.


Current wiring diagram


I think what I need to do is use the solenoid trigger wire on the Magnum to trigger another relay to break the connection from the starter to the BCDC. Would this work? It's not what the magnum is designed for... it's designed to either use the built-in 25 amp connection, OR use an externally driven solenoid.

Starting to get a little hacky...

 

[DiploStrat]

Too easy, just use the same setup that I do. (See Post #38.) I have a relay between the BCDC 1240D that only MAKES the connection when the ignition is on. (You don't have to touch the SBC at all, trigger the relay from the ignition.

Basically, you want my "Twisted Sister™" wiring, only with the SMC where I have the BCDC 2420.

Not hard at all, and as I am on the road as I type this, I can attest that it works perfectly.

 

[jeegro]

Too easy, just use the same setup that I do. (See Post #38.) I have a relay between the BCDC 1240D that only MAKES the connection when the ignition is on. (You don't have to touch the SBC at all, trigger the relay from the ignition.

Basically, you want my "Twisted Sister™" wiring, only with the SMC where I have the BCDC 2420.

Not hard at all, and as I am on the road as I type this, I can attest that it works perfectly.

Ahh.. of course. Sometimes I miss the obvious solutions...

Seems to be working well so far!