bought our truck, starting a huge new build!

[Jfet]

We test drove a 2006 Isuzu NRR 19,500 GVW flatbed (20 foot flatbed) and loved it. It drives like a friggen car...I was amazed.

First thing we will do is model the truck down to the last bolt using Rhino CAD so we can draw up engineering diagrams for our pod system.

We plan on doing this in stages, having the first living quarters pod constructed to our drawings by a fabricator, then later having the garage pod. Probably a 10 foot living pod with a 5 foot cab overhang and an 11 foot garage pod mounted behind it. Both pods removeable with jacks similar to a truck slide in camper. The garage pod will hold 2 snowmobiles and 2 dual sport dirt bikes. We will mount a sturdy hitch to pull our 17 foot Montgomery sailboat. This is going to be one bad *** setup...have to think of a catchy name

I will get pics of the truck and get a build thread going soon.

 

[washington taco]

Cool, looking forward to the build.

 

[Jfet]

I forgot to mention, it does need new front tires (like, right now!) but I would want to get the final tires instead of buying the wrong thing then having to replace them in a year after we have the pods built. I would like to keep most of the 23,000lb rating but also have as much of a mud/snow tire as possible. Any initial recommedations? I think we will keep the dual rear setup since this is a bigger truck than an FG (but has the small rims).

 

[Overland Hadley]

Sounds like this is going to be a great build to watch!

 

[Jfet]

Thanks. I am thinking of going with the Toyo M608Z 245/70R19,5 14 ply G load rating traction tire all around. $500 bucks a pop, but sounds like a good tire.

 

[1Engine]

Thanks. I am thinking of going with the Toyo M608Z 245/70R19,5 14 ply G load rating traction tire all around. $500 bucks a pop, but sounds like a good tire.

I have been running the 285/7019.5 for almost 50000 kms so far.
I rotate them every 15000 kms - left to right not front to back
The work load has been 75% hiway & 25% dirt.
No problems so far

 

[Jfet]

I have the truck at home now!

We ended up going with the Toyo 225/70R19.5 M-608Z tires on all six wheels. I also had the front brakes done and new ebrake shoes and drum. Once I get the oil and fuel filters changed, it should be good to go. It seems to run great even though it has 144,000 miles.

I stopped at certified truck scales and got a dry weight of 8760 including me. This was a pleasant suprise as I had feared the 20 foot steel frame wood bed would be very heavy. With a GVWR of 19,500 this means we have almost 11,000 pounds of cargo capacity. Of course we will need to keep an eye on axle distribution, but I should easily be able to come up with a camper/garage combo that falls well under that.

Still considering the S&S 11FBSC camper as a backup plan if having our own custom shell built turns out to be too expensive. We would still build the rear garage but it is much simpler...just a non insulated box with a big ramp door.

 

[Jfet]

So this is the company we are getting quotes from to build the first pod (the living quarters).

They are located in our state which is nice, and seem to use quality components (well, mostly aluminum heh).

The skin is almost 1/8" thick painted aluminum :Wow1:

Here is hoping a basic 11 foot by 8 foot box with 6 foot cab overhang comes in at something we can afford.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtx-n4tJdns

 

[Jfet]

Here is a picture of our truck with some important dimensions. Still trying to decide build or buy on the slide in camper.

 

[Jfet]

Have been tossing around ideas for construction and we are really leaning toward steel frame with a wall sandwich like this:

Filon -> Azdel -> 1x1 steel studs -> 1 inch rigid foam sheet inbetween studs -> 1/2 inch foam thermal barrier -> luan -> Kemlite

sikaflex glue to bond it all, steel frame would be welded.

Not sure what to do about the roof...would like it walkonable.

 

[SkiFreak]

Not sure what to do about the roof...would like it walkonable.

No matter what material you use for the roof, if you make it with a bit of an arch it will be considerably stronger than if it were flat.
A slight arch will also help to avoid water puddling on the roof.

 

[Jfet]

I did a quick CAD drawing of what a steel frame might look like for our dimensions. I used 1x1 and 1x2 steel tube (with a little bit of cnc work on the curve section and a little bit of pipe). I have arranged things such that 2 inch R5 foam can be installed everywhere and there will be no place inside where there is not at least 1 inch of foam between the steel and the inner wall. This should help with thermal isolation. (note, have not CAD'ed doors and windows yet, obviously)

Most of the steel is 0.065 gauge but I used 0.120 for the corner vertical 1x2

The total weight as drawn is 580.8 lbs

3749" of 1x1 1/16" 258.3 lbs
2067" of 1x2 1/16" 218.7 lbs
426" of 1x2 1/8" 80 lbs
197.25" of 1" round 1/8" 18.5 lbs
75" of 2" wide 1/8" plate 5.3 lbs

 

[AeroNautiCal]

Don't you have to leave clearance to enable the cab to tilt forward for engine access?

 

[Jfet]

Don't you have to leave clearance to enable the cab to tilt forward for engine access?

No, the camper will lift when the cab needs to tilt

 

[Jfet]

Picked up a Miller 211 MIG welder and some 75/25 gas the other day.

Today I bought 300 pounds of steel to get started and have some for practice. Four 2x1 11 gauge 20 foot sections and Five 2x1 16 gauge 20 foot sections. Let me tell you right now how nice it is to already have my Isuzu NRR with a 20 foot flatbed....made loading so easy....I just backed into the steel mill warehouse under their bazillion ton crane and they plopped the steel right on and I drove away (after ratcheting it down of course).

Being able to go from camper/garage expedition type vehicle to a general purpose 20 foot flatbed truck in just a few minutes is going to be great!

Here are some pics of the the first steel. I thought I was getting A513, but it looks like the 16 gauge is A500 (higher tensile strength). I actually haven't looked for writing on the 11 gauge, should check.