Build Primer?

[RJ Howell]

I'm here to learn from you all on even where to start...

I have a 2004 Ford F150 4x4 that is stock as can be and has taken on the good old Nor'east rust.
As the first step I had my mechanic (that has worked on it for years) give me a once over on the mechanicals, basically "Worth Savin'?"
Second step has been dealing with the rust. Now that the frame and body are solid again, it's time to move to the next step.

Intent is to build up a overland camper on the back (bed removed and up from frame) so I think suspension can be next. Beefing it up a bit and lifting an inch or so (to allow a taller tire).

Has anyone here actually made up a primer for the process (steps) in doing a build?

 

[ExplorerTom]

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

The above video is awesome.

I think to a certain point get out there and see exactly how you want to do it. If wifey doesn't want to flop out of an RTT tent for a midnight bathroom run (mine is in that camp) you don't want to design your truck around that. OR if wifey doesn't like the tent getting flooded you don't want to have to change gears and redo the truck to take a RTT.

I think kinda take your time and let the truck evolve to how you want it to be, not everybody does it the same way.

Personally I am like two steps ahead of a connestoga with my plywood chuck box, Coleman white gas stove, ground tent and coolers.

 

[RJ Howell]

Very good video! Thank you!

Looks like I am proceeding correctly, whew... I get my truck back from the weld shop mid next week (frame repair/enforcing) and now can start researching suspension needs.
I'm mainly a '2 tracker' and crawl over protruding rocks in the trail/road. Thinking the 1" lift would be fine, then again enforcing existing suspension may do what I require. I need to consider the weight of the camper build as well.

So looks like I continue as am doing: Finish the frame repair. Continue the drive train inspection (repair if required). Finish my Camper design and determine weight. Suspension to match. Tires.

I am very curious about my existing rear differential and if I should look at swapping it out for a locking type. Pro's and Con's folks? I will be driving some Highway, mostly byways to reach an area (as much as a few 100 miles at times).

Sneak peek at the camper design:
Biggest change to happen is the topper needs to lift straight up, not tilt...

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

There is sticker on the doorjam, you can google the axle code and find what you have. If it is gone there is a steel tag on the rear diff also.

If you have it limited slip can get you thru a lot but it would probably needs new clutches by now. Pretty cheap to R&R and if you are not hanging tires in the air they do pretty good.

If you have an 8.8 with that kind of camper you might watch out for a 9.75. 8.8 is a good axle but the 9.75 is pretty much the same design scaled up. All 5.4 trucks and most Supercrews have the 9.75 from the factory.

 

[phsycle]

Biggest challenge with the 1/2 tons and campers is keeping within GVWR. Almost forces you to go ultralight.

ie, FWC Hawk dry weight is 1,100lbs. Maybe add 300lbs wet, at minimum. Then people, gear, etc puts you at or above payload. Which is why when I retire and we get a slide in camper (prob Alaskan), I’ll most likely go 1 ton.

 

[RJ Howell]

Well, that helps me! I found another site saying if I have 10 bolts on the rear diff, it's a 8.8, 12 bolts it's a 9.75. That sound right to you? I'm going to the weld shop Monday morning to see how they're coming along (and get a good look while its in the air).
The site seems to believe the 2004 F-150 came with LS rear.. Is there a code for this as well?

 

[RJ Howell]

Biggest challenge with the 1/2 tons and campers is keeping within GVWR. Almost forces you to go ultralight.

ie, FWC Hawk dry weight is 1,100lbs. Maybe add 300lbs wet, at minimum. Then people, gear, etc puts you at or above payload. Which is why when I retire and we get a slide in camper (prob Alaskan), I’ll most likely go 1 ton.

That's the issue with most commercial built campers... weight! Biggest reason I'm building mine and not going with a in-the-bed style. This cap is half the weight on my Leer fiberglass cap, and bigger.

 

[DzlToy]

Perusing various forums and sub-forums will expose you to many different schools of thought and projects. Look at $600,000 Unicat builds to see what they are doing, then look at a $10k budget build using fiberglass and plywood.

There was a build on here a few years ago, made by a guy who used a Leer/ARE type topper and made it into a Westfalia type pop-up tent. He didn't spend a ton of money, nor did he spend 3 years building it. Many people had questions and when he would pop in from time to time, he would answer quickly, say everything was good and that he was out enjoying his camper.

Living in the NE US, you have a lifetime of back roads and trails to explore. Because you do not have experience, you don't even know what you want or don't want, at this point. Consider renting or borrowing a rig, buying something used or joining an overland club to see what others are using. The only way to figure out what you like and what you don't like is through experience. No matter what you build, you will want to make changes as you use it, so don't worry about getting it "perfect" the first few times 'round.

 

[RJ Howell]

DzlToy... I think you mis-understand what I'm asking here.. I'm planning a step by step build to upgrade my truck to do what I want it to do. I'm almost done the engine and frame work. I felt suspension was next in line. Seems so far to be correct.

I showed my trailer build peek to give an idea of what I'm about to do. I appreciated the response of taking care of a commercial unit due to weight and how it pertains to the suspension.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Well, that helps me! I found another site saying if I have 10 bolts on the rear diff, it's a 8.8, 12 bolts it's a 9.75. That sound right to you? I'm going to the weld shop Monday morning to see how they're coming along (and get a good look while its in the air).
The site seems to believe the 2004 F-150 came with LS rear.. Is there a code for this as well?

limited slip is in the axle code. It was an option.

8.8 has more of a round cover, 9.75 is pointier and has braces around the center section. I have both but don’t care to crawl in the snow for pics...

 

[DzlToy]

There are many builds documented on this and other boards, but, as each build is somewhat unique, I do not believe that you can write a set of instructions, i.e. "How to Build a 12 foot long camper" for everyone to follow. Guiding principles and ideas, however, are present in nearly every build thread I have ever read (thousands over the last 20 years)

Maybe I am missing the point, but the web is full of build threads, comments, feedback, vendor links, ideas for improving "the next one" and so on. That is the beauty of the boards covering actual builds, as opposed to pictures of you bolting Fox shocks on your Jeep and then me doing the same thing to mine.

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with and apologies if I am being dense.

Cheers

 

[RJ Howell]

limited slip is in the axle code. It was an option.

8.8 has more of a round cover, 9.75 is pointier and has braces around the center section. I have both but don’t care to crawl in the snow for pics...

Thank you! I'm headed to the weld shop shortly and will check. Very anxious to see how they're coming along with the frame. Also want to get a price for the camper frame.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Thank you! I'm headed to the weld shop shortly and will check. Very anxious to see how they're coming along with the frame. Also want to get a price for the camper frame. View attachment 561105View attachment 561106

This might help:

Differential Identification - Ford | RANDYS Worldwide

www.randysworldwide.com

 

[RJ Howell]

This might help:

Differential Identification - Ford | RANDYS Worldwide

www.randysworldwide.com

By that, it looks like the 8.8 / 31.
My truck was in the air and in process of welding. Couldn't get close enough to check any code stamps. Both sides over the axle and mid-point were very weak.. They figure by mid day tomorrow they have it done. Out of the weld shop and over to my mechanic for inspection (again..). At that point I'll get deeper into this.