CDN Chris's Pajero

D4782

Observer
As for roof racks... If you buy brand names, especially Rover of Toyota specific parts, you'll be paying more than you need to. I have and use a contractor Van aluminum rack. Our Paj's have rain gutters, and these racks are all meant to attach to rain gutters. I'd recommend getting the high rise ones to make sure you have clearance over the roof at the back (you'll notice the roof line gets higher in relation to the gutter near the back.)
http://www.haulerracks.com/html/hauler_racks__inc__-_van_racks.html
Thats what I have on my Paj and it fits beautifully. Mine have the "E" mounts. I found mine used for a steal... and as you see on their site its 800 lb capacity. All Aluminum too. I'm sure thats for a dead load, not a static load, obviously.
That being said, Thule and Yakima and Sportrack all make rain gutter feet that fit their cross bars. So, if you find rain gutter feet with a high enough rise they will likely fit. I just got lucky and happened upon the rack for $50. I'm sure you can buy it brand new for less than a lesser thule/yakima system would be though. Just a thought.

You can kind of see the rack here. I Later changed configurations and added a removable aluminum roof basket at one point alongside the two bike mounts.

photo.jpg
 

Idaholandho

The other white meat
Looks fantastic!
I would consider taking a close look at any maintenance prior to making any physical changes. Such as changing all fluids, filters, brakes/rotors, and general tune up items and getting familiar and getting comfortable with the new rig. This will enhance and guarantee a piece of mind while on the road. The best of luck and enjoy!
 

CDNChris

Observer
Hey Aaron, thanks for the rack info. I'll be happy to help with the ball joints, just let me know when. I'm looking forward to a trip out somewhere. I'm itching to get out.

Thanks Idaholandho! Maintenance is definitely the top priority. The previous owner was on top of everything but I'm still going to change all the fluids and filters just for peace of mind. I need to spend a good amount of time getting familiar with it, I agree there. I've never owned a diesel before so a lot of this is new to me.
 

CDNChris

Observer
I finally got the Pajero off the asphalt this past weekend. I went for an evening camp out with a buddy to test out some sleeping arrangements (separately lol). Tents made with tarps for a minimalist approach. I learned I'm buying a tent. +19 the night of, woke up to snow on the ground.... I didn't realize this until just the other day, but I guess the winter package Pajero's already have a body lift from factory? Cool.

Anyway, here are some pictures of the trip.

Beautiful, brisk morning
IMG_0495_zpsn2rtj9ds.jpg


Warming up by the fire
IMG_0497_zpsak5ha68l.jpg


Back in 2013 we got hit with a huge flood in Alberta. It completely changed the landscape in so many areas with some parks washed out entirely. Some spots look like barren waste lands of just rock
IMG_0500_zpsgsju3sxt.jpg


First river crossing evar!!!
IMG_0503_zpslombkgm8.jpg


Cool shot
IMG_0514_zps1k6igu6d.jpg


I'm really enjoying my Pajero. I even assaulted a steep embankment and made it up. Things are getting legit.
 

Eric M

Adventurer
It's not part of the winter package, the body mounts for all the diesel Pajeros are taller than the gas Pajeros.
 

Eric M

Adventurer
Just drivetrain clearance. I've seen mention that the 3.5L models also have increased body height, but I've never seen a non 3.5L Montero in real life to compare.
 

JamesW

Adventurer
Yup the 2.5 and 12v 3.0 have lower body mounts because they've a smaller gearbox bell housing. It isn't so much a body lift as it is that the body outriggers are higher than the others. Its only 50mm but it makes a fair difference when it comes to tyre clearabce
 

CDNChris

Observer
Thanks for the info.
Here's another question: Is the drivetrain the same on Montero/Pajero's between gas and diesels? Can I assume brake parts are interchangeable and suspension components?
 

96Delica

Adventurer
If it hasn't been mentioned, putting a pyrometer gauge is a good idea with those engines. Us Delica guys have good experience with the digital Auber gauges because they fit pretty much anywhere. I put mine in my gauge pod. The aluminum head in these 4M40 motors are prone to cracking, it's worth having a look through Delica.ca to see what people have to say.

Nice looking rig, have fun with it!!
 

96Delica

Adventurer
When I say prone to cracking, what I should say is that if you drive it like an animal and expect it to motor over the passes and haul trailers up and down the mountains with your foot to the floor you're gonna have a bad time.

The EGT gauge allows you to keep an eye on the exhaust temps so you can tell if you're pushing it too hard. They can do anything you ask, but I remember it taking a little bit to get used to the style of driving this little diesel. I treat my van like a tractor, never in a rush!
 

CDNChris

Observer
I'm not hard on it, I certainly didn't buy it for speed lol. For the EGT, do you recommend probing or just wiring it? Or are there even the two options?
 

JamesW

Adventurer
I've also cracked a head, I was towing, with a radiator half filled with mud. Rather than go for the EGT route I went for the coolant temp gauge, does a good job at letting you know how hot the coolant coming out of the engine is. Its advisable to give the cooling system a good flushing, and filling it with coolant if you haven't already, just for peace of mind, as these engines are a but soft.

I've a 98 petrol 3.0 24v which I use as a parts truck for my 95 2.8, and most parts fit between them, the brake calipers are the same. Its mainly the engine parts and ancillaries are different
 

96Delica

Adventurer
For an EGT gauge, you tap a probe into the exhaust somewhere. A popular spot is at the EGR valve location since people frequently remove them. It took me a couple years to finally get one, just nice for peace of mind I suppose.
 

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