Okay so the other day (well about a week ago) I was driving home from dropping my son off at Pre-K, when I lost PS, A/C, and alt. So what happened is the Crank bolt (old style) backed out, and the pulley is now loose. The Woodruff Key looks fine and the bolt came out in one piece! (yay!!!) But the roll pin is gone. So I am thinking of drilling it out and getting a new one to tap in there so that my Pulley will go back on and I can get it on the road. Any suggestions?
Crankshaft bolt and roll pin...
- Thread starter Mudrunner
- Start date
nckwltn
Explorer
I'm pretty sure that my crank sprocket came off with the pulley when I was wiggling everything off. Just so as long as you get the sprocket and crank pulley lined up how they need to be, I don't think it matters too much how you get them fixed together. Just as long as they are together tightly.
nckwltn
Explorer
The timing belt wasn't shot, but the bearings from the two pulleys, and the seized water pump were
I used a chain wrench around the harmonic balancer/crank pulley. That held the crank pulley in place while I put the proper torque on the bolt that holds it all together. I'm not really sure what this "roll pin" is that you're talking about, do you have a picture or three?
wonderingsol
New member
Wow! U got lucky with the bolt coming out. Make sure the locating pins on the rear of the timing sprocket did not shear off. They hold the Crank postion sensor blade and spacer in place.
nckwltn
Explorer
not really sure it was luck... I just followed the instructions in the FSM (I think). The only difference was I didn't have the special tool to hold the crank pulley, so I used the chain wrench. It put a small little nick into the pulley grooves, but I fixed it with a screwdriver, good as new!
But I can see how something could come apart or break that would allow the pulley to spin free.
There is a roll pin located on the front of the timing gear that goes through a little hole in the vibration dampner. I know my timing is safe because I continued to drive it home after bolt backed out. And no check engine light plus it was still driving and bits and pieces of engine on the road
I was looking over the FSM and is shows on the 3.5L that there is a plate that looks like it hold the belt tensioners for the accessory drives, you know PS alt stuff like that. I didn't know if it has to come off or not. I looks like a giant plate with stuff attached to it.
nckwltn
Explorer
oh yeah... that thing!
Yes, it has to come off. it really isn't a problem, except for the AC compressor. There are 4 bolts that hold it in place that are pretty cumbersome to get to.
check out this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vunvsjph9Yk (turn your sound down, the music is quite loud). It is a sped up version of someone changing the tbelt on a 3.5l montero sport.
Yes, it has to come off. it really isn't a problem, except for the AC compressor. There are 4 bolts that hold it in place that are pretty cumbersome to get to.
check out this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vunvsjph9Yk (turn your sound down, the music is quite loud). It is a sped up version of someone changing the tbelt on a 3.5l montero sport.
Okay no AC compressor has to come, just one long bolt above it. But it was pretty simple to pull out only took me about 30 min. to get it out of there. I will be pondering my choices at this time as to how I want to proceed. Since I am not doing my timing belt simply pulling it off and putting it back on. I can either make sure all is good TDC and all that stuff or since my timing marks are all lined up just pull and don't move the crank. Hmmm quick and dirty or prim and proper...
off-roader
Expedition Leader
I'm sure before you fire it back up you'll do a couple of full engine rotations by hand right?
Of course I will. I will do all the needed checks, and make sure there will be no binding.