DI steering

jeff_wright

Adventurer
With some of my Christmas money I plan on addressing the sloppy steering of my DI. I realize the steering will never be great, but at highway speeds the play in the steering wheel can make the interstate an even more interesting place. Will the addition of new tie rod ends, a Rovertracks HD tie rod and OME steering stabilizer address this? Thanx
 

DiscoveryXD

Adventurer
Yes it could, just depends. It could be several reasons why the truck feels sloppy on the freeway. If you're still running stock then I would replace the steering rods with some after market ones anyways. Stock rover rods are pathetic....

What about your panhard rod? The bushings could be worn out in that too. If the truck is lifted, you may want to replace it with an after market one. That will bring the geometry of the panhard back to stock.

I would start with those, and if it still feels sloppy move on to things such as the steering box, swivel pin preload, etc...
 

SMD

Adventurer
Is your Disco lifted? If the answer is yes, then the sloppy (depending on how you define "sloppy" - situation could also be as XD mentions above) steering is usually a result of the change in castor. None of the things you mentioned will address the castor.

When I was running OME 751/781 springs I also did not enjoy driving on the interstate. RTE castor-corrected radius arms and a front TrueTrac made a significant difference. You will get a few different opinions regarding this approach, though.

If your truck is not lifted, then you might also want check out the u-joints in the steering shaft.
 

tinker trek

Observer
Before you spend a bunch of money on parts...
If all you have is "slop" free play in the steering have you tried tightening
up the nut on top of the steering box there is a lock nut loosen it & adjust
(turn) the lower to tighten your free play up in your steering.

I'm sure you may be able to find the exact procedure in the workshop manual.
 

jeff_wright

Adventurer
Right now I'm running the genuine Land Rover HD springs (wouldn't recommend) with spacers in the rear.
tinker trek said:
Before you spend a bunch of money on parts...
If all you have is "slop" free play in the steering have you tried tightening
up the nut on top of the steering box there is a lock nut loosen it & adjust
(turn) the lower to tighten your free play up in your steering.

I'm sure you may be able to find the exact procedure in the workshop manual.

I'll have to check that nut on the steering box and see if it does anything. Otherwise, I will go ahead and see if the installation of new bushings and tie rod ends will help on the new, beefier components. How does the caster affect steering?
 

michaels

Explorer
jeff_wright said:
Right now I'm running the genuine Land Rover HD springs (wouldn't recommend) with spacers in the rear.

jeff, i always thought you were running a small OME lift. what shocks do you have?

and will you have the steering stuff on our trip? that's the nexthing i'll adjust after i get a winch (i found a buyer for my tires, so i'm only a couple hundred away!)
 

Scott Brady

Founder
You are on the right track. I chose to replace all of the necessary components at one time, including the tie rod, drag link and all ends. I also upgraded and relocated the steering damper and adjusted the caster with the Inland Rovers Arms. The Rover now drives better than new, with an accurate on-center feel and no wobble.
 

benlittle

Adventurer
DiscoveryXD said:
Yes it could, just depends. It could be several reasons why the truck feels sloppy on the freeway. If you're still running stock then I would replace the steering rods with some after market ones anyways. Stock rover rods are pathetic....

What about your panhard rod? The bushings could be worn out in that too. If the truck is lifted, you may want to replace it with an after market one. That will bring the geometry of the panhard back to stock.

I would start with those, and if it still feels sloppy move on to things such as the steering box, swivel pin preload, etc...

X2.

Before you start dropping cash... tighten up everything, check the condition of your bushings as Matt suggested and check the condition of your tie rod ends.

I run Olivares style HD DOM steering components with a relocated OME damper and a TT up front. I also have castor corrected RTE arms and a lengthened pan hard. All of these make my steering SCHWEET. :bike_rider:
 
H

Hank

Guest
jeff_wright said:
How does the caster affect steering?

First, research what caster is.

Then, address the caster as the caster is almost most certainly your problem. If you lifted your truck and never addressed the caster, then this is your problem.

You can drop $250.00 on new caster corrected radius arms, or you can get a little more involved and spend $300.00 on a better solution from Rovertym and get the caster corrected swivel balls.

The swivel balls are a bit more complex to install, but overall, it's a better option.

Depending on your lift and how tall it is, you may need both the swivel balls and radius arms to get your steering and pinion angle back the way it should be. A 2" lift, typically, does not "require" re-worked radius arms - the pinion angle is not all that far out of wack. But, even with a small 2" lift, the axle is rotating (pinion up) and your caster is being thrown off. The caster is what affects your steering.

One last option is the Detroit Truetrac carrier. The truetrac, too, has it's pro's and con's. For you, this may kill two birds with one stone.
1) It will correct your caster problem. The truetrac has a return-to-center characteristic, meaning, it likes to track straight. The truetrac is not "correcting" the caster problem, rather, it's putting a band-aid on it. The band-aid is not a bad thing in this circumstance.
2) It allows you to get rid of the weak Rover front carrier. The truetrac is wicked strong, whereas the stock rover carrier is junk, basically. If you have not broken a stock Rover carrier, don't worry, you will. You also gain a bit more traction up front, but this is not a locker.

Upgrading the steering linkage is all fine and dandy, and its almost a must at some point. But it's not going to correct your steering problem. If it were my truck, I'd first get the Rovertym swivel balls. I'd still replace the front carrier, too, when monies allowed it - but I like the ARB (although word on the street is Eaton is making an E-locker for the Rover, so that sounds interesting)
 

jeff_wright

Adventurer
benlittle said:
I run Olivares style HD DOM steering components with a relocated OME damper and a TT up front. I also have castor corrected RTE arms and a lengthened pan hard. All of these make my steering SCHWEET. :bike_rider:

This advise is great! Thanks. Are these "Olivares" style HD DOM" components custom or what makes them different from say......Rovertracks?
 

SMD

Adventurer
Jeff, I think you need to help us understand what you mean by "sloppy" steering. Are you turning the wheel while parked and not seeing/feeling much movement in the wheels, or possibly delayed? Feel anything similar to ratcheting, or like something in the linkage is playing catch-up? Maybe delayed response during low-speed driving? Or are you feeling a vagueness when cruising at highway speeds? Does it seem like you need constant corrections to your steering to stay on the same track?

If it's the latter few questions, then re-read and heed Hank's post. A HD drag link and tie rod aren't going to affect your steering. They're just beefier components that will take more abuse when you hit something (or stay out of the way better if "offset".) Re-locating the damper also shouldn't affect steering - you're only moving a component to a new location to once again be further away from rocks and damage. New tie-rod ends and other bushings are always a good idea and may help with some cases of steering trouble, but I'm sticking with the castor suggestion since you have a bit of lift. Like I said before, I had the same issues when I was running about 2" of lift. A castor adjustment made a world of difference. Later, after replacing my very old TREs, I really couldn't feel any difference but enjoyed some peace of mind.

YMMV.
 

michaels

Explorer
jeff, i have about a half inch to inch play in my steering at speed on the hwy. it's never really bothered me that much, but when you figure this out let me know what you did. see you out on the trail in a few hours. :rally_guys:
 

EricWS

Observer
jeff_wright said:
This advise is great! Thanks. Are these "Olivares" style HD DOM" components custom or what makes them different from say......Rovertracks?

Custom made by a fellow enthusiast. Rumor has it Marc has retired from fabrication.

His rear door table is now being copied by many, but no one has surpassed it his original work to date.
 

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
jeff_wright said:
and OME steering stabilizer address this?
No. You should have good steering without a stabilizer. Putting on a stabilizer to correct sloppy steering is merely masking the symptoms.
 

jeff_wright

Adventurer
SMD said:
Jeff, I think you need to help us understand what you mean by "sloppy" steering. Are you turning the wheel while parked and not seeing/feeling much movement in the wheels, or possibly delayed? Feel anything similar to ratcheting, or like something in the linkage is playing catch-up? Maybe delayed response during low-speed driving? Or are you feeling a vagueness when cruising at highway speeds? Does it seem like you need constant corrections to your steering to stay on the same track?
The steering is very vague at highway speeds and while it tracks straight any correction with the steering wheel seems more drastic than it should be.

SMD said:
If it's the latter few questions, then re-read and heed Hank's post. A HD drag link and tie rod aren't going to affect your steering. They're just beefier components that will take more abuse when you hit something (or stay out of the way better if "offset".) Re-locating the damper also shouldn't affect steering - you're only moving a component to a new location to once again be further away from rocks and damage. New tie-rod ends and other bushings are always a good idea and may help with some cases of steering trouble, but I'm sticking with the castor suggestion since you have a bit of lift. Like I said before, I had the same issues when I was running about 2" of lift. A castor adjustment made a world of difference. Later, after replacing my very old TREs, I really couldn't feel any difference but enjoyed some peace of mind.

YMMV.
So for adjusting the castor I should check into new control arms then?
 

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