DIY Composite Flatbed Camper Build

rruff

Explorer
sorry for such late question that send you back to page 1.... but i m getting ready to put the box together using the same way as you did! did you use any primer on the aluminum angle before applying sika flex or just straight on them? i reread and full thread and take notes but didnt see mention of primer?!
I'm definitely no expert, and I don't have enough experience to say that the way I do it is sound, but I've been bonding to raw 6061-T6 with epoxy.

Do this right before bonding: Clean (scrub) it first with vinegar. Sand it with a course flap disk on an angle grinder. Wipe with acetone.

But heck... if SikaFlex recommends a primer, it couldn't hurt to use it...
 

DzlToy

Explorer
There are thousands of products on the market, and the one that you choose, will indeed determine the prep work required. Even within the Sika brand, there are products that require a primer and those that can be used without one. I don't imagine that a 10 foot long awning bonded to clean, bare metal, is going to come off the roof because a primer wasn't used, but that is not my call to make. Imagine a 2" - 3" wide 'strip' of 252, or similar, 120" long. If the strength of the adhesive were 100 PSI, you have 24,000 pounds of "holding power". Properly bonded and cured, modern adhesives have hundreds, if not thousands of pounds of tensile and shear strength.
 

motorman

Active member
exactly, modern adhesives have replaced welding in many different fields and applications
even the hinges on my 2005 GMC van were glued on
they withstood countless child catapult launches over the 10 years of ownership with zero misalignment
 

Terra Ops

Adventurer
sorry for such late question that send you back to page 1.... but i m getting ready to put the box together using the same way as you did! did you use any primer on the aluminum angle before applying sika flex or just straight on them? i reread and full thread and take notes but didnt see mention of primer?!

No primer, just clean surface from aluminum to FRP. Has held up great.
Just curious if anybody has used these other adhesives like Teroson 939 or Bostik 70-03 or 05a?
Pros Cons?
 

Jonnyo

Observer
No primer, just clean surface from aluminum to FRP. Has held up great.
Just curious if anybody has used these other adhesives like Teroson 939 or Bostik 70-03 or 05a?
Pros Cons?

so far...only know of Everlander as having used primer 205 for sikaflex. I m doing the same build technic as Ambition Strikes and like you.... they wire brush the aluminum and whipe clean with alchool right before the vhb tape and sikaflex.
 

MLu

Adventurer
so far...only know of Everlander as having used primer 205 for sikaflex. I m doing the same build technic as Ambition Strikes and like you.... they wire brush the aluminum and whipe clean with alchool right before the vhb tape and sikaflex.

I'm using Sika 221 with 207 primer to attach the anodized aluminium profiles to the FRP panels. I called Sika and had a nice chat with one of their product managers. They sent over the charts for prep and primers and a bunch of other technical stuff. According to them, the key to proper performance is prep (light scuffing, IPA), correct primer (in this case I chose 221 and 207 because I can use the same primer for both pieces), and managing the thickness of the glue seam by adding washers to the rivets to leave enough space for the adhesive to stay thick enough to allow for the difference in thermal expansion between the aluminium and the FRP as apparently the glue loses its properties if it moves laterally more than 50% of the thickness. Granted, that's for industrial operations, but hey why not over-engineer the hell out of it if you can.
 

Jonnyo

Observer
I'm using Sika 221 with 207 primer to attach the anodized aluminium profiles to the FRP panels. I called Sika and had a nice chat with one of their product managers. They sent over the charts for prep and primers and a bunch of other technical stuff. According to them, the key to proper performance is prep (light scuffing, IPA), correct primer (in this case I chose 221 and 207 because I can use the same primer for both pieces), and managing the thickness of the glue seam by adding washers to the rivets to leave enough space for the adhesive to stay thick enough to allow for the difference in thermal expansion between the aluminium and the FRP as apparently the glue loses its properties if it moves laterally more than 50% of the thickness. Granted, that's for industrial operations, but hey why not over-engineer the hell out of it if you can.

did they tell you why 221 over 252? i see those 2 seems very close and interchangable. but i m hearing the same from many..spacer so the glue tickness is good..
 

rruff

Explorer
Aren't you gluing aluminum to aluminum though? Maybe you still want a good gap... but I wonder if epoxy wouldn't be better since the materials are the same.
 

Jonnyo

Observer
Aren't you gluing aluminum to aluminum though? Maybe you still want a good gap... but I wonder if epoxy wouldn't be better since the materials are the same.

yes aluminum to aluminum. i wonder if epoxy would be better? i always though that aluminum and epoxy were not a good idea together. but not sure where i heard that.

i send a message to Reily and courtney at 'Ambition strikes'' to confirm there process, i m doing exactly the same build technic so

-scuff aluminum
-clearn it
-vhb tape 4941 as spacer
-sikaflex 252, no primer
-aluminum to aluminim.

so far so good for them.
 

Terra Ops

Adventurer
Well its been awhile since I last posted. Looks like most of the discussion has been panel construction.
I think the last upgrade was to the suspension. I now have the Icon adjustable shocks on the front and back and has made a huge difference.

Finally decided to start another composite flatbed build. This time I will be buying the box instead of building it. This camper is manufactured and assembled by Composite Panel Technologies in Kelowna, BC. Very impressed with their product and service. Delivery is expected in 7 to 8 weeks. If anyone is interested in a composite camper and wants to share shipping expense to Spartanburg SC, please PM me.

Price range is from $11,585 for small Tacoma type truck to $13,890 for large 8 ft. bed truck. Custom is also available, which I opted for. It came in at $15,665. Weight ranges from 550 lbs. to 775 lbs. for just the shell and door. Prices include assembly, shell, and door. See our website for current pricing. https://www.terralitecampers.com

This new build has led to the decision to start a new business as a dealer for Composite Panel Technologies selling and upfitting composite campers under the name TerraLite Composite Campers LLC. While we are located in Spartanburg SC, we can assist with purchases nationwide. Upfitting will begin early next year. Please PM with questions. Thanks, Jeff.
 

Attachments

  • CPTFlatbed.jpg
    CPTFlatbed.jpg
    949.5 KB · Views: 62
  • TerraLiteCustomFlatbed.pdf
    192.2 KB · Views: 14
  • TerraLiteCustFlatbedjpg.jpg
    TerraLiteCustFlatbedjpg.jpg
    194 KB · Views: 57
Last edited:

ITTOG

Well-known member
That is a great price on that. I look forward to watching the build out.

Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk
 

Jonnyo

Observer
Well its been awhile since I last posted. Looks like most of the discussion has been panel construction.
I think the last upgrade was to the suspension. I now have the Icon adjustable shocks on the front and back and has made a huge difference.

Finally decided to start another composite flatbed build. This time I will be buying the box instead of building it. This camper is manufactured and assembled by Composite Panel Technologies in Kelowna, BC. Very impressed with their product and service. Delivery is expected in 7 to 8 weeks. If anyone is interested in a composite camper and wants to share shipping expense to Spartanburg SC, please PM me.

Price range is from $11,585 for small Tacoma type truck to $13,890 for large 8 ft. bed truck. Custom is also available, which I opted for. It came in at $15,665. Weight ranges from 550 lbs. to 775 lbs. for just the shell and door. Prices include assembly, shell, and door.

This new build has led to the decision to start a new business as a dealer for Composite Panel Technologies selling and upfitting composite campers under the name TerraLite Composite Campers LLC. While we are located in Spartanburg SC, we can assist with purchases nationwide. Upfitting will begin early next year. Please PM with questions. Thanks, Jeff.

One element i can vouch for having seen so many of those around….they are STRONG. That company produce so many medical mobile unit for the oil field and construction company in northern BC and Alberta. Those unit see the roughness condition there is on forestery and gravel road and harsh winter. They resist the test of time….quality construction.
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
Technically aluminum should be primed prior to any paint, sealant, or adhesive.

In my experience, Acid#8 by Upol does a great job. Have yet to have a failure of any kind since using it.
Sand out aluminum, prime, then proceed.

 

Forum statistics

Threads
186,368
Messages
2,885,056
Members
226,303
Latest member
guapstyle
Top