Edgestar Fridge Low Battery Cut Off Issues

scottma

Observer
I apologize in advance, as I know this question has nothing to do with your thread except that it is related to the Edgestar refrigerator. However you are obviously talented and are not afraid to make mods to get the results you need. I am trying to figure out how I can lock my 63Qt Edgestar into my slide out tray so I can easily open the lid. As it is now I use tie down straps over the lid. I got the idea to try and fabricate a locking base of some sort after seeing that Engel sell one for their units. Any ideas would be appreciated.
 

kuh

New member
How is the LBCO modification holding up?

I am having the same issue with my 86Q unit.

My low battery starts to blink with either 12V or AC plugged in.
 

kuh

New member
took apart the control panel and tightened all the screws and checked and tightened all the plug connections. replaced the original AC cord and plug. Replaced the 12V cord with a better quality cord. I connected it directly to the auxillary battery with a 20 amp inline fuse.

works great and has not had the low battery light come on since.
 
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Strizzo

Explorer
I apologize in advance, as I know this question has nothing to do with your thread except that it is related to the Edgestar refrigerator. However you are obviously talented and are not afraid to make mods to get the results you need. I am trying to figure out how I can lock my 63Qt Edgestar into my slide out tray so I can easily open the lid. As it is now I use tie down straps over the lid. I got the idea to try and fabricate a locking base of some sort after seeing that Engel sell one for their units. Any ideas would be appreciated.

while on a trip to colorado, i tied my 43qt down by running a ratchet strap from the hook on one side, up to the handle, down under the bottom of the fridge, then up to the handle on the other side, then down to the tie down point on that side. this kept the fridge held down while allowing us to get in & out of it during the day. i did it this way because i couldn't get the ratchet straps short enought do run one on each side.
 

kuh

New member
started acting up again.
I'll recheck the spade connector that I suspect is loose.
Hopefully this will fix it finally.
 

kuh

New member
My fridge is still acting up, I need to do the mod that Rando did.

Does anyone know if the 500k resistor is the one above R8?
was this just added to a blank space or is there another resistor underneath the top one?

also is the silver thing next to U1 is that new part or was that just solder that spilled onto it?

I forgot to mention that the Low battery indicator light also comes on when plugged into AC power,

Don't know if this is part of the same problem or a different issue?
 
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mohamjordan

New member
I just bought my edgestar 43 and it works fine on 110 and also 12volts with engine off for 24 hours with out issues. I get this stupid yellow blinking light when the engine is on. As soon as the voltage goes above 13.8 at the socket with the fridge on and recycling it starts blinking yellow light.

????? Any Ideas
 

kuh

New member
Update, Did some more research and seems that the two power cord provided by edgestar sucks. Literally they have problem from the get go.

I installed 12v directly to the power panel inside the edgestar and bypassed the supplied 12v cord. Ran the 12v wires directly to the second battery with a fuse.

Not had a problem with the blinking yellow low battery light since.

Now it maintains the temperature and keeps everything cold or frozen without having to worry about temperature spikes.

I will now install a Anderson power plug so I can disconnect it when necessary.

Hopefully this takes care of the problem.
 

kuh

New member
update

Hard wiring directly to the battery has fixed the problem.

Temp is maybe 2or 3 degrees + - from the set temp.

No more low battery light at all.

Now I can proceed to build a fridge slide for my Honda odyssey.
 

kuh

New member
Update:

Finished making a crude slide for the Odyssey. It works but not very pretty.

Fridge acted up a few times and checked all the wiring and installed new connectors.

Finally decided to get a new Energizer HM29 HD marine battery. Since the old one did not charge fully.

Have had it for a few days and the LBCO has not come on.

Try to keep this battery fully charged with a external battery charger.

Hope fully the new battery makes the difference, the old battery was over two years old.
 

kuh

New member
Fridge acted up again LBCO blinking.

Decided to do Rondos mod with soldering a resistor to the temp control.

Cost $1.19 plus tax at Radio Shack for a pack of five.(560k 1/2 watt resistor)

Got lucky and did a pretty clean solder to the existing resistor.

Fridge runs now when it would usually display the LBCO light.

Hopefully this is the cure for the problem and sure a lot cheaper than buying a

new temp controller.
 
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mohamjordan

New member
Kuh and Rando ,Just wondering how are the edgestar working for you after the resistor mode? Just wanted to know if it fixed the blinking problem as mine have that issue only when voltage is above 13.4 with engine on. But I don't have that issue when I turn off the engine it seams to works ok at lower voltage like 12.7 and down.
 

Rando

Explorer
I am under the impression that there is both a high voltage cut-off and a low voltage cut off. I haven't noticed my light coming on while the engine is running and the voltage is > 14V, but that doesn't mean it is not happening as I generally don't look at the fridge while I am driving! In reagards to low voltage, it has been working fine since I made the modification. Another approach I considered when modifying mine was to connect the low voltage sense circuit to the 5V regulator inside the thermostat in order to totally defeat the low voltage and high voltage cut offs.
 

mohamjordan

New member
I am under the impression that there is both a high voltage cut-off and a low voltage cut off. I haven't noticed my light coming on while the engine is running and the voltage is > 14V, but that doesn't mean it is not happening as I generally don't look at the fridge while I am driving! In reagards to low voltage, it has been working fine since I made the modification. Another approach I considered when modifying mine was to connect the low voltage sense circuit to the 5V regulator inside the thermostat in order to totally defeat the low voltage and high voltage cut offs.

I am glade you fixed your blinking issue. I would love to remove the whole voltage cutout Hi and Low on mine because the compressor controller will not engage the compressor if the voltage is too low anyway. Reading your post you mentioned r7 and r8 factoring the low voltage cut out. So where is the Hi voltage cut out factored at. Just thinking out loud by connecting the low voltage sense circuit to the the 5V regulator inside the thermostat how would that fool the circuit?
 

mohamjordan

New member
I am glade you fixed your blinking issue. I would love to remove the whole voltage cutout Hi and Low on mine because the compressor controller will not engage the compressor if the voltage is too low anyway. Reading your post you mentioned r7 and r8 factoring the low voltage cut out. So where is the Hi voltage cut out factored at. Just thinking out loud by connecting the low voltage sense circuit to the the 5V regulator inside the thermostat how would that fool the circuit?


Rando , you'r the man. Mater of fact Edgestar should pay you for all those fridges that will be fixed because of this post. I just went ahead and added a 50k resistor to R8 and I tested it for 5 hours with engine on and off and it works with out any blinking light. I also tested it on 110 ac and it works fine . The only thing i have to test is at what voltage will the low cut out comes on if it ever comes on. I'll post again when i get the results
 

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