First Fuso FM from RUF Inc

[charlieaarons]

I would get a relatively inexpensive 5 foot torque wrench. It (3/4" drive, 1-1/4" socket ~ 32mm) works fine on my U500's lug nuts (450 ft-lb). I carry it in the storage compartment in the back of the camper. Along with a few other things.

Charlie

 

[dhackney]

I would get a relatively inexpensive 5 foot torque wrench.

Which would HAVE to be less expensive than this 1" SnapOn ratchet...

(BTW, please don't let my wife know there was a less expensive alternative.)

Actually, we really need the ratchet since we've got limited swing arc on the rears. Unless the torque wrench had a ratchet head on it I don't think we could use it in our application.

 

[kerry]

If you can get yours tight with your leg with that length of ratchet they must be less tight than mine because even with a torque multiplier mine were not budging with a similar length breaker bar.
I noticed that Northern Tool sells an adjustable height extension holder so that the end of the tool is held at the proper level for the lug nut without a tendency to twist off the lug nut. With a tool like that you could probably use a longer extension, getting outside your boxes. It serves the purpose for which Charterboat uses a jackstand.

 

[Steve_in_29]

I would get a relatively inexpensive 5 foot torque wrench. It (3/4" drive, 1-1/4" socket ~ 32mm) works fine on my U500's lug nuts (450 ft-lb). I carry it in the storage compartment in the back of the camper. Along with a few other things.

Charlie

A torque wrench should never be used to loosen nuts. The force needed to do so will easily throw its calibration off. Thus making it impossible to get accurate readings when using it for tightening.

 

[dhackney]

If you can get yours tight with your leg with that length of ratchet they must be less tight than mine because even with a torque multiplier mine were not budging with a similar length breaker bar.
I noticed that Northern Tool sells an adjustable height extension holder so that the end of the tool is held at the proper level for the lug nut without a tendency to twist off the lug nut. With a tool like that you could probably use a longer extension, getting outside your boxes. It serves the purpose for which Charterboat uses a jackstand.

I like the idea of the adjustable stand. I may try to get one of those. Can you please post the part number?

We have now used that SnapOn ratchet on every nut and stud on the truck, including ones that had never been touched since the factory installed them. It took both feet to get those loose, but I was able to do it. (BTW, we tested the ratchet on factory nuts before we left to be sure it would be enough to break them loose.)

The impact wrench had zero effect on the factory nuts even when I had max pressure (150 lbs.) in the tank. Consequently, I always do a final tighten with the ratchet when I do a tire change.

The impact wrench is a time saver, plus it draws and entertains large crowds in Peru, where I don't think there is a single impact wrench in the entire country, at least outside of Lima.

I brought an otherwise very, very well equipped Goodyear store to a complete standstill when I fired it up. The mechanics gathered round and fondled it like a treasure from an alien world. People filled the sidewalk outside and waited more than half an hour until I used it again just so they could hear the sound. And this was in a fully developed city of about 150k people.

 

[kerry]

For some reason I can't access the NorthernTool website right now or I'd post a link.
The part number for the adjustable wrench support stand is 13493-1901 It adjusts from 14 1/2" to 22 1'2" and weighs 6 lbs. Cost $39.99

 

[kerry]

My 3/4" x 40" breaker bar from Northern Tool came in yesterday. I tried loosening the lug nuts using the bar and a 36" cheater for a total of 6' of leverage. None of the lug nuts I tried would budge. Looks like it's going to take a high torque 1" impact to loosen those nuts. Don't know who tightened them, but it seems it was overkill.
I have a 1" impact but after looking at the required CFM, I don't think my little compressor can run it.

 

[charlieaarons]

A torque wrench should never be used to loosen nuts. The force needed to do so will easily throw its calibration off. Thus making it impossible to get accurate readings when using it for tightening.

This torque wrench seems to be designed for loosening since it's reversible with a toggle switch: and it doesn't click when loosening. Although I'll admit that it's set at 450 and perhaps it doesn't reach that limit when loosening. But it would seem with environmental effects (corrosion, dust) that it would take a bit of extra torque to loosen a nut on for 1-2 years?
Maybe I should find a 5' pipe extension for my 3/4" ratchet or breaker bar.
With a reversible torque wrench, what's the difference between loosening a right hand thread at 450 and tightening a left hand at 450? It is precisely the same motion and stress on the tool.

Charlie

 

[Steve_in_29]

This torque wrench seems to be designed for loosening since it's reversible with a toggle switch: and it doesn't click when loosening. Although I'll admit that it's set at 450 and perhaps it doesn't reach that limit when loosening. But it would seem with environmental effects (corrosion, dust) that it would take a bit of extra torque to loosen a nut on for 1-2 years?
Maybe I should find a 5' pipe extension for my 3/4" ratchet or breaker bar.
With a reversible torque wrench, what's the difference between loosening a right hand thread at 450 and tightening a left hand at 450? It is precisely the same motion and stress on the tool.

Charlie

While you are correct that the "direction of motion" is the same whether tightening a left hand nut or loosening a right hand one, the forces involved with doing either are not the same.

Tightening a left hander would obviously stay within the wrenches capacity while the force needed to loosen a (very tight) right hand nut can easily exceed the wrenches capacity and places strain it wasn't designed for on the mechanism.

A torque wrench is a precision measuring instrument and NOT a breaker bar. The instructions for every wrench I have seen contained specific warnings about this.

 

[charlieaarons]

Um, not trying to be nitpicky, but...
My torque wrench is reversible.
The torque limit is set at 450 ft-lb. The wrench is rated up to 600.
When I loosen lug nuts it doesn't click or snap or pop. I maintain good hand control because the tool is 5' long.
In this configuration it is designed to tighten left handed nuts up to 450 ft-lb.
Obviously loosening lug nuts I'm not exceeding 450.
So how is that abusing this tool?

Charlie

 

[Steve_in_29]

If you are in fact not exceeding the tools rating when using it to remove your lugs then it would appear that in this particular instance it would work. But the same might not be true when the nuts get corroded or rusty.

If you don't want to take my word for it give the wrench's manufacturer a call. Also try asking any real mechanic (not the minimum wage monkeys at the local tire shop) what he thinks about the practice.

Right-tool-for-the-right-job is a valid credo.

 

[kerry]

I tried loosening the lug nuts with my 1" impact wrench (1400 ft lbs) on my small pancake compressor. I could get about 5-8 seconds of power out of the compressor. It took about 5 attempts on each lug nut. One took 10-12 attempts but all evenutally loosened. I retightened with my 40" breaker bar. I'll try the rest of the lug nuts later.

 

[whatcharterboat]

Nuts

If I'm without an impact driver, I use the factory socket with a slightly longer bar and support the end of the socket. I carry a folding axle stand for this so you can put more weight on the bar safely. Then the axle stand goes under the truck during the wheel change for extra safety.

This is the axle stand that works for me. If you get one and the spacing holes are too far apart to get the correct adjustment use a couple of pieces of thin plywood as a pad to get the right height for the stand.

This one folds up.

If there is a proper tool for this as was mentioned that sounds great but this works really well and the correct rotational force can be applied to the nut without trying to twist off and damage something.

I can't comment on the dramas you guys are having in freeing these wheel nuts as I have rarely had to use anything longer than 4' and usually the standard bar is OK. One thing I do however is always use some anti-sieze on the nuts. Not normal grease but anti-sieze, never-sieze, kopr-kote, etc,etc. and not just on the threads but make sure it goes on the beveled face that makes contact with the wheel. This is normally why they freeze. Also everything tightens so much easier this way. Then go ever the nuts again after the wheels have settled in (maybe a 100kms or so) and nip them up AGAIN. This last step is really important.

IMO correct torque even with a Tension Wrench cannot be achieved when the beveled surface is dry and friction comes into play.

I only use a rattle gun to spin the nuts on cause it's easy then do the final tighten with a bar maybe a little longer than standard. Don't push the socket on all the way and scratch the paint. Last tip. When you have rolled your wheel over to the axle, how do you lift it up to get it on? Use your slightly longer bar and the standard bar. Put each bar a couple of inches under the tyre, on either side , and use as a lever to lift the wheel straight up. There is a knack to it but no muscle is really required. When you get it you can do the lift and rotate to line the studs up all in one smooth movement.

The anti-seize is something I was shown so long back I can't remember but I've never read anything to the contrary. I stress this is my opinion and please someone set me straight if it's not best practice.

 

[dhackney]

RE: standard bar, factory socket

Our 2007 U.S.A. market FG did not come with any tire changing tools at all. No bar, no socket, no nothing.

 

[kerry]

I haven't found any tire changing tools on my 99 either. Of course they could have been removed but I don't see any place where they were stored.

Here's a long thread on anti-seize and lug bolts.

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tires-and-wheels/44792-anti-seize-lug-nut-studs-why/

I think I'm going to use your experience with FG's as the relevant data and use some. It would have been EXTREMELY difficult to remove my wheels without the large and heavy 1" impact wrench, leaving me stranded if I had no access to the tool and air. So I prefer taking some steps to make the lug nuts more easily removable.

Why is the lug torque so high? I've owned a couple of Dodge motorhomes built on truck chassis of comparable weight with comparable sized wheels and the lug bolts were not nearly as tight.