Full size trailer build.

klmore

Adventurer
Perhaps under the bed between the frame rails centered over the axle, and with a remote filler?

I really prefer that exact spot. It would require cutting down the new tank to 42" wide and having it welded together. I could even use a boat style gas filler next to one of the boxes out of the way.
 

Poorboyota26

Adventurer
nah. you should just scrap the tank and weld up your own out of stainless, then after you've realized that you forgot to put baffles in it, scrap that and redo it. Or you could just ship the scrap to me and I'll somehow some way figure out how to put them to good use:sombrero:
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Boat style filler used with the typical fuel station nozzle is usually a pain. I'd recommend a JY sourced later model filler neck modified to fit. If you want the nozzle to work normally then copy the installed angle of the filler neck and hook the vent hose barb to near the top of the tank. Not at the top as you'll want some room for thermal expansion.
 

Curtis in Texas

Adventurer
I really like the boxes through the wall idea.
Cleaver! Sure beats the heck out of having to fabricate boxes and doors and latches and …… well you know what I mean.
As for the tank! Why not turn it 180 degrees and put the filler neck through the front bulkhead? That would free up your bed space. And negate any spilling of fuel into or onto your camping gear packed in the trailer. And allow you to fill the fuel tank without having to unload half the trailer to put gas in it.

You could add a front battery box on the tongue just inside the filler neck to give it some protection, or mount a spare tire next to it.

And I just realized if your truck filler neck is on the drivers’ side you could still put gas in the tank without having to cross the trailer tongue.

You may have mentioned this already but, let me expound on this idea a bit just in case you didn’t.
If you use an outboard motor boat fuel fittings and tap on end into your filler neck on the truck you could transfer fuel to the trucks main tank with a small electric fuel pump mounted either on the trailer or truck. (Something to consider though, electric fuel pumps push better than suck. but for fuel transfer will work well enough for this application.) And, in case some of the readers don’t know, the boat lines have valves in them that will close off the hoses when not plugged in. But, on the plus side! If the pump is on the trailer then you can transfer fuel to any vehicle with a simple fuel connector and spare hose. Just have enough hose from the trailer to the truck with the boat fitting at the rear bumper so it can be tucked away safely.


I this set up on my Dodge bed tank with a pump on a 15 minute timer mounted under the dash to prevent over filling. There is a restrictor nozzle in the transfer fuel line so it only pumps 25 gallons in 15 minutes. Just give the timer a full turn when the low fuel light goes on and it will get just over ¾ tank of fuel in 15 minutes.


Uh, I think that’s all I have to add.
My 2 cents + :)
 

Titanpat57

Expedition Leader
Great concept..you never have enough closed dry storage. Is it possible to cut a hole on the outside of the box to slip the filler neck from the gas tank into? Just a thought, good job!
 

klmore

Adventurer
I this set up on my Dodge bed tank with a pump on a 15 minute timer mounted under the dash to prevent over filling. There is a restrictor nozzle in the transfer fuel line so it only pumps 25 gallons in 15 minutes. Just give the timer a full turn when the low fuel light goes on and it will get just over ¾ tank of fuel in 15 minutes.

That's not a bad idea. I'm going to have to figure a way to get the fuel out of the tank.

I have thought about cutting a hole for the filler neck to stick out of in the front. It would be much easier to fill in that position. As of now I'm mainly trying to fit the boxes. I"m thinking it is simple to put the tank up front, but is it the best placement?
 

Curtis in Texas

Adventurer
Curtis, What did you use for the timer and where did you get it?

The timer I bought at Home Depot for about $16.00.
It's nothing more than a 120 volt porch light rotary timer.
I mounted it behind the panel under the steering columnm.

It would be real easy to run a wire from the timer under the dash to a plug in connector at the bumper to turn on a pump in the trailer. Radio Shack has 2 conductors connectors like the 4 conductor flat plug trailer connectors. With the boat hose hooked up to transfer the fuel to the truck would be a snap. (EDIT NOTE: Those hose coupler parts are now in Sporting Goods/ Boat Parts. I went to Wally World today and thought,"I'll check to see if they still carry them!" THey do.

If ya'll would like some pictures I can take some tomorrow to show you what I'm talking about.



Oh and just in case anyone is curious, you can get the quick disconnect boat fuel lines at Wally World in the boat lights and trailer stuff area of the Automotive department.

It's not always Rocket Science is it???? :)
 
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Curtis in Texas

Adventurer
That's not a bad idea. I'm going to have to figure a way to get the fuel out of the tank.

I have thought about cutting a hole for the filler neck to stick out of in the front. It would be much easier to fill in that position. As of now I'm mainly trying to fit the boxes. I"m thinking it is simple to put the tank up front, but is it the best placement?

You can cut the pipe at an angle and rotate the fill pipe to change the angle.
Then use a rubber hose and clamps to seal it back.
Or get someone to reweld the tube at the angle you want.

I headed for the shower, but wanted to say you can get the larger fuel hose at Stuart Supply. They will sell you what ever you need in any length. I may even have some scrap 3" if you'd like me to look for them tomorrow.
 
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Outback

Explorer
On my 101 build I have discovered the benifits of a hi lift jack to get my trailers tongue off the hitch. I plan on either swapping in the military 101a3 tongue jack or welding on a hi lift trailer jack. Other than that I wouldnt worry about the tongue weight. Most people tend to add to much weight on the back which creates a hazard when towing. Its always better to be tongue heavy than it is to be trailer *** end heavy! As far as Linex you cant go wrong! That will happen on mine in a few months. LOVE the build! I will copy you under bed truck boxes for my battery storage
 

klmore

Adventurer
Update

I know it has been a while, but I'm still working on this trailer project. I got bogged down in a Jeep restoration that took up all of my spare time and funds.

I also had a major problem with a improper LineX install that had to be completely removed and redone. The LineX prep work was poor, to say the least, and I opted to prep it at my shop the second time. In the end I did not go with the LineX and choose a cheaper Gator Guard.

As of now all of the tool boxes are welded in and seam sealed. I have the Gator Guard and fuel tank installed. (I'm still working on the fuel tank plumbing and a transfer pump). The lights and wiring have all been redone and finally the trailer was painted to match my Suburban.

Today I had a fab shop out to measure for the overhead rack. It will be hinged in the front to allow for the four wheeler to be loaded. It should be done next week.:)

I will post pictures tomorrow, here are some Jeep pics to hold everyone over.







Sorry the pictures are not great.
 

klmore

Adventurer
The Jeep decals are from Collins Brothers.

My little shop is carpeted. It was a retail space that use to be rented, but when it opened up I had a garage door installed to work on projects. It is a little bigger than a regular two car garage.
 

klmore

Adventurer
Updated pictures

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I'm thinking the kitchen is going to be tight, but I haven't given up on it yet. For extended trips, without the four wheeler, I will have more than enough room for gear in the back.

I am open to all opinions and help. I still have a long way to go.
 

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