GatorDoc’s 3rd gen Cummins Dodge
- Thread starter Gatordoc
- Start date
Regcabguy
Oil eater.
The Mag-Hytec will clear 35"s in the rear if you pull the spare back to the hitch and secure with a ratchet strap. My 34"s clear easily along with the Helllwig swaybar.
Master-Pull
Supporting Sponsor
A couple of suggestions from reading this:
1. Fuel filter, get an aftermarket one that filters very well, FASS, Airdog etc.
2. I have an ARB bull bar on mine, it's pretty big but I also like it, it will definitely keep my truck safe during an accident and the install only took a few hours with one of my friends helping me out.
3. Tires, I would suggest going with something besides the Toyo M/T as was previously suggested, they don't wear very well (read they are easily worn down), they are loud, and they are heavy! I think an aggressive A/T such as the Goodyear Duratrac A/T or the BFG KM2 would be a better choice. Or if you want a budget M/T check out treadwright retread tires: https://www.treadwright.com/
4. Sway control, I love what I have from Hellwig, my truck is primarily a DD/Tow rig and the dirt that it sees is usually while pulling a trailer. With that said their airbags are great and easy to install and the same goes for the swaybar.
5. Gauges, I would seriously consider adding some gauges (boost, egt, trans temp) just so you know what is going on with the truck.
6. 47RE, since you have that I am guessing either you have a low output or California version of truck, it's not as good as the 48RE (the 4 is the number of forward gears and the 8 is the torque holding capacity, meaning a trans rated with an 8 holds more torque then a 7). With this I would suggest a mag hytec double deep trans pan, it will hang just about even with the bottom of the transmission crossmember and holds 4 more quarts then stock IIRC.
7. Suspension, the Carli stuff is very nice I would have that if my truck saw more dirt. If you get one of their kits you will not go wrong.
HTH.
-Alex
1. Fuel filter, get an aftermarket one that filters very well, FASS, Airdog etc.
2. I have an ARB bull bar on mine, it's pretty big but I also like it, it will definitely keep my truck safe during an accident and the install only took a few hours with one of my friends helping me out.
3. Tires, I would suggest going with something besides the Toyo M/T as was previously suggested, they don't wear very well (read they are easily worn down), they are loud, and they are heavy! I think an aggressive A/T such as the Goodyear Duratrac A/T or the BFG KM2 would be a better choice. Or if you want a budget M/T check out treadwright retread tires: https://www.treadwright.com/
4. Sway control, I love what I have from Hellwig, my truck is primarily a DD/Tow rig and the dirt that it sees is usually while pulling a trailer. With that said their airbags are great and easy to install and the same goes for the swaybar.
5. Gauges, I would seriously consider adding some gauges (boost, egt, trans temp) just so you know what is going on with the truck.
6. 47RE, since you have that I am guessing either you have a low output or California version of truck, it's not as good as the 48RE (the 4 is the number of forward gears and the 8 is the torque holding capacity, meaning a trans rated with an 8 holds more torque then a 7). With this I would suggest a mag hytec double deep trans pan, it will hang just about even with the bottom of the transmission crossmember and holds 4 more quarts then stock IIRC.
7. Suspension, the Carli stuff is very nice I would have that if my truck saw more dirt. If you get one of their kits you will not go wrong.
HTH.
-Alex
bftank
Explorer
i would suggest instead of an aluminum maghytec going with a thicker iron diff cover that also has more capacity like from ruffstuff or great lakes offroad or ballistic fab. more protection, more capacity. the cooling effect of aluminum in my opinion isn't needed as much as the diff protection is. unless you plan on towing at max capacity frequently.
Gatordoc
Adventurer
This is my thought as well since I don't tow much other than occasional trips pulling a relatively light travel trailer. I don't suppose you have a link or source for any of these? I looked a while back and didn't find much, though I haven't done much checking recently.
Gatordoc
Adventurer
Pics
As promised I am finally posting pics. Definitely safe for work, I'm afraid, as I want to get the drivetrain sorted before taking it anywhere in the dirt.
Yeah, the parking lot at work. If it earns me any points I am parked about 200 yards from the Pacific in those photos!:suning:
Just for giggles here are my other wheels, 2011 Triumph Tiger 800:
Loaded up for camping the weekend I bought it:
As promised I am finally posting pics. Definitely safe for work, I'm afraid, as I want to get the drivetrain sorted before taking it anywhere in the dirt.
Yeah, the parking lot at work. If it earns me any points I am parked about 200 yards from the Pacific in those photos!:suning:
Just for giggles here are my other wheels, 2011 Triumph Tiger 800:
Loaded up for camping the weekend I bought it:
Regcabguy
Oil eater.
ARB bumper
I've seen the ARB's up first hand and they while being well built,leave the power steering cooler,lines,condensor and radiator exposed.
The Hellwig swaybar complements my Thuren suspension really well. Don will dial in a great system for you,but remember to give him lead time.
I've seen the ARB's up first hand and they while being well built,leave the power steering cooler,lines,condensor and radiator exposed.
The Hellwig swaybar complements my Thuren suspension really well. Don will dial in a great system for you,but remember to give him lead time.
Master-Pull
Supporting Sponsor
Does that help at all? Not much protection but you could build a skid plate pretty easily.
-Alex
LimaMikeMike
Observer
Just noticed that you truck has the early 10.5" ring gear AAM.
FYI the Powerwagon rear locking diff will bolt in with minor mods-one major advantage of the tracrite GTL over say an ARB air locker is when its "unlocked" it's a helical limited slip.
I just wish they made it for the 11.5 AAM
FYI the Powerwagon rear locking diff will bolt in with minor mods-one major advantage of the tracrite GTL over say an ARB air locker is when its "unlocked" it's a helical limited slip.
I just wish they made it for the 11.5 AAM
Gatordoc
Adventurer
Thanks for the input fellas, it's got the gears turning re: future plans.
Finally some progress, I reworked the front axle about two weeks ago. Sorry, no photos as my hands were utterly filthy and there were a couple of points where I would have been tempted to throw a camera across the workshop.
Changed the following:
Brake pads
Brake rotors
Unit Bearings
Universal Joints
Diff oil
The brake rotors were a bear to get apart; copious amounts of PB blaster and application of a 3# sledge finally got them off. I didn't bother to check if they could be machined as I had to beat the daylights out of them to get em separated from the unit bearing.
The unit bearings were an equal pain to separate from the knuckles and were utterly kicking my behind until I ran across the following cheat on the Cummins forum:
Replace the 4 hub bolts but leave about 1/4" to 1/2" clearance between the bolt head and the knuckle. Insert an impact socket and extension, or a harbor freight cheapie you don't mind possibly destroying, over the bolt and brace it between the bolt head and axle housing. Once secure start the truck and use the power steering to press the hub out, alternating to opposite bolts and backing them out to create clearance as necessary.
Not the ideal method, but it worked for me. Caveats are to be very careful not to turn too hard where you damage the PS pump and don't kill yourself with an exploding socket-like projectile. I used the other half-can of PB Blaster on the hubs and soaked it for a day before attempting this. Oh, and the hubs were fine. Rock-solid after 120k miles, but I replaced them anyway since I had beat the mounting flange up pretty badly trying to get them off.
U joints were pretty near shot but a difficult job to replace, and the diff cover and fluid replacement were not difficult at all. Re-used the stock diff cover as it was not in the budget to go aftermarket.
Everything went together smoothly and I coated all mounting surfaces in copious amounts of anti-seize for the next time I have to work on the front end, which will probably be replacing the ball joints. I checked them and they seemed fine, but I am anticipating having to do them in the not too distant future.
Next project will be the rear axle/diff and transmission fluid. I am hoping to be able to afford an aftermarket diff cover and transmission pan before I do it, but it may end up being sooner than later so that remains to be seen.
Finally some progress, I reworked the front axle about two weeks ago. Sorry, no photos as my hands were utterly filthy and there were a couple of points where I would have been tempted to throw a camera across the workshop.
Changed the following:
Brake pads
Brake rotors
Unit Bearings
Universal Joints
Diff oil
The brake rotors were a bear to get apart; copious amounts of PB blaster and application of a 3# sledge finally got them off. I didn't bother to check if they could be machined as I had to beat the daylights out of them to get em separated from the unit bearing.
The unit bearings were an equal pain to separate from the knuckles and were utterly kicking my behind until I ran across the following cheat on the Cummins forum:
Replace the 4 hub bolts but leave about 1/4" to 1/2" clearance between the bolt head and the knuckle. Insert an impact socket and extension, or a harbor freight cheapie you don't mind possibly destroying, over the bolt and brace it between the bolt head and axle housing. Once secure start the truck and use the power steering to press the hub out, alternating to opposite bolts and backing them out to create clearance as necessary.
Not the ideal method, but it worked for me. Caveats are to be very careful not to turn too hard where you damage the PS pump and don't kill yourself with an exploding socket-like projectile. I used the other half-can of PB Blaster on the hubs and soaked it for a day before attempting this. Oh, and the hubs were fine. Rock-solid after 120k miles, but I replaced them anyway since I had beat the mounting flange up pretty badly trying to get them off.
U joints were pretty near shot but a difficult job to replace, and the diff cover and fluid replacement were not difficult at all. Re-used the stock diff cover as it was not in the budget to go aftermarket.
Everything went together smoothly and I coated all mounting surfaces in copious amounts of anti-seize for the next time I have to work on the front end, which will probably be replacing the ball joints. I checked them and they seemed fine, but I am anticipating having to do them in the not too distant future.
Next project will be the rear axle/diff and transmission fluid. I am hoping to be able to afford an aftermarket diff cover and transmission pan before I do it, but it may end up being sooner than later so that remains to be seen.
Gatordoc
Adventurer
This in intriguing, I may have to look into it since there are not many traction-aid options for lockers in the AAM axles.
:beer:
break break
It does, thanks. I'm still a fan of the relative simplicity and not-hugeness of the ARB, but I am not so happy with the apparent lack of protection at the bottom. I looked again at the Buckstop stuff the other day and pricing for the more basic of their bumpers is pretty close to what I've been able to find for ARBs at around $1500. The Buckstop appears to provide more coverage, but there is the trade off in bulk and weight that comes with that. I can't afford either right this second anyway, so it's not like I don't have pleanty of time to make up my mind.Master-Pull said:
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Texan1983
Adventurer
Does that help at all? Not much protection but you could build a skid plate pretty easily.
-Alex
do you have a side profile pic of the arb? im thinking about one but it seems like everyone that builds bumpers for these dodges like to make them hang off big time killing your approach angle...