GEARS..??

[jeep-N-montero]

Yup, I know concur, gears. 3.73 vs. 4.10 is a personal choice depending on driving habits and future plans. I'd lean 4.10 though.
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I'm no longer a Chevy expert, had a couple suburbans but forgot a lot to make room for Ford knowledge, even then they were 2500s. I am however a big 14 bolt fan, it's a great axle, I just can't remember if the semi float version has the right 1/2ton lug pattern, I seem to think they are all 8 lug. Even if so, a 12 bolt, or just another 10 is very likely a much better and easier/cheaper task then changing gears.

So he can switch to 8 lug wheels, big whoop. A complete set of front and rear axles out of a K2500 can be had for under $400 and 8 lug wheels under $200, swap can be done in a day.

 

[I Leak Oil]

I think swapping the front end into a 1999 is a little more complicated. I don't think the 2500 IFS diff and front end components will just bolt up to the frame on the 1500. Just regear it or put the smaller tires back on.

 

[Korben]

So he can switch to 8 lug wheels, big whoop. A complete set of front and rear axles out of a K2500 can be had for under $400 and 8 lug wheels under $200, swap can be done in a day.

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Well I'm so F-ING sorry I tried to provide some helpful F-ING information that none of F-ING pompous Jack-holes like yourself mentioned before.
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1 F-ING minute of google **** netted more useful information then all this "just put a semi float 14 bolt in" crap. First if like you suggest he goes 8 lug then he might as well use a real FF14B, ring gear is bigger, they have the third pinion bearing etc. The SF version IS 6 LUG, but has a smaller ring gear, no third bearing, and no bolt in pinion. The ONLY thing it has in common with the infamous FF14B is that it has 14 bolts on the cover.
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thatboykg, I do think that they are right that if you decide to change ratios you're better served just changing complete axles. You may be able to buy the gears for $150, but you also need an install kit, as well as the skills and tools to set up or, to pay someone to do it. However swapping an entire axle that you can pickup for $150-$300 is easy, very likely to cost less in the long run and you get a stronger axle while your at it.
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If so, issue is 8 lug or 6 lug, 8 lug is better but more work.
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If 6 lug you're looking for most likely axles out of a K2500 pickup with 6 lug wheels with the right ratio and differential. It will have the SF14B and if you grab the front center out of it as well it should swap taking care of your front ratio.
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If you go shopping for any complete axle all of your options except for the FF14B are C-clip axles. C-clip axles have the risk of the C-clip failing if too worn, this is also more likely to happen on clutch type LSD. A good test of how worn an axle is to remove the wheel and brake drum, then push/pull the axle itself in and out of the housing. They all move a little even brand new, but if it moves more then say 3/16" pass on it or if it's LSD plan on replacing the clutches.
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Hope this helps, lots of info on this on the net.

 

[jeep-N-montero]

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Well I'm so F-ING sorry I tried to provide some helpful F-ING information that none of F-ING pompous Jack-holes like yourself mentioned before.
.
1 F-ING minute of google **** netted more useful information then all this "just put a semi float 14 bolt in" crap. First if like you suggest he goes 8 lug then he might as well use a real FF14B, ring gear is bigger, they have the third pinion bearing etc. The SF version IS 6 LUG, but has a smaller ring gear, no third bearing, and no bolt in pinion. The ONLY thing it has in common with the infamous FF14B is that it has 14 bolts on the cover.
.
.
thatboykg, I do think that they are right that if you decide to change ratios you're better served just changing complete axles. You may be able to buy the gears for $150, but you also need an install kit, as well as the skills and tools to set up or, to pay someone to do it. However swapping an entire axle that you can pickup for $150-$300 is easy, very likely to cost less in the long run and you get a stronger axle while your at it.
.
If so, issue is 8 lug or 6 lug, 8 lug is better but more work.
.
If 6 lug you're looking for most likely axles out of a K2500 pickup with 6 lug wheels with the right ratio and differential. It will have the SF14B and if you grab the front center out of it as well it should swap taking care of your front ratio.
.
If you go shopping for any complete axle all of your options except for the FF14B are C-clip axles. C-clip axles have the risk of the C-clip failing if too worn, this is also more likely to happen on clutch type LSD. A good test of how worn an axle is to remove the wheel and brake drum, then push/pull the axle itself in and out of the housing. They all move a little even brand new, but if it moves more then say 3/16" pass on it or if it's LSD plan on replacing the clutches.
.
Hope this helps, lots of info on this on the net.

I never knew the k2500 ever came with a 6 lug axle option, must not be many out there, but I am also used to only being around diesel HD setups. I was suggesting he find a FF 14 bolt, anything less under a truck is for girls, ha.

 

[jeep-N-montero]

Ok guys.. good info. The main thing i tow is my rzr out to all the races. Its on a small 7x12 tandom axle trailer. My truck struggles to get up to 70, then the trans keeps downshifting and doesnt seem to find where its comfy. If its a short drive, i usually drop down a gear an run 55-60.. normal driving in town isnt too bad, Highway driving, terrible mileage and no balls, feels like im always dragging an anchor or something. The gears im looking at are only around $200 a set.. i just need to keep it reliable and dependable and get decent mileage for the time being. Like i said, i am planning to go big later on. Need it as a daily for now.

Here is a great link about the axle options http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...2-differences-between-8-lug-6-lug-2500-a.html

 

[thatboykg]

@korben yea, im leaning towards 4.10s, and i also heard the fronts were different. honestly, i do want to do the 14 swap but wasnt planning doin all that now, getting new wheels an all. i just got all this not long ago. also i didnt know if the yolks matched up for just a swap.

@i leak oil- i think its prob quickest to just regear.

 

[thatboykg]

BTW here a pic of my rig..

 

[drewactual]

re-gearing is an all day event no matter how it's handled, just so you know, or haven't done them before... they have to be extracted carefully, counting shims and accounting for everything, then reinstalled, patterned, extracted, reinstalled, patterned, extracted- at LEAST twice to three times even if you nail it the first time... it's more art than mechanics, and involves little voodoo dolls and chicken bones.. well... it seems like it at times anyway.

I got my last set from Randy's R&P, they were grizzlies in 4.56 flavor- the gears (front and back) were $600ea iirc, and then there was a master install kit for another $200ea... gear oil, rtv, and patience... I now source that job out as it's one of the few things I won't do anymore. there is just too many things that can go wrong and cost a lot- making someone else (a pro) responsible for it if it goes south (howling along the way) is the only way to fly imHo..

swapping axles, as was mentioned, is likely cheaper and easier, and that is a job I'd do solo with very little complaining. He's not steering you wrong, in other words... given the option, it's better to swap axles with a gear well set and tested than it is to introduce new gears and hope you did it right...

if you do regear the existing axles, though, make certain and follow the break-in schedule to a T.... limited heat cycles, no constant speed, CHANGE THE OIL after 500 miles (the new gears have a coating on them that will foul oil- it's good to protect the gears while boxed, but bad for the oil and really bad on clutch plates if that's the type of carrier you're cramming them in)...


good luck!

 

[thatboykg]

re-gearing is an all day event no matter how it's handled, just so you know, or haven't done them before... they have to be extracted carefully, counting shims and accounting for everything, then reinstalled, patterned, extracted, reinstalled, patterned, extracted- at LEAST twice to three times even if you nail it the first time... it's more art than mechanics, and involves little voodoo dolls and chicken bones.. well... it seems like it at times anyway.

I got my last set from Randy's R&P, they were grizzlies in 4.56 flavor- the gears (front and back) were $600ea iirc, and then there was a master install kit for another $200ea... gear oil, rtv, and patience... I now source that job out as it's one of the few things I won't do anymore. there is just too many things that can go wrong and cost a lot- making someone else (a pro) responsible for it if it goes south (howling along the way) is the only way to fly imHo..

swapping axles, as was mentioned, is likely cheaper and easier, and that is a job I'd do solo with very little complaining. He's not steering you wrong, in other words... given the option, it's better to swap axles with a gear well set and tested than it is to introduce new gears and hope you did it right...

if you do regear the existing axles, though, make certain and follow the break-in schedule to a T.... limited heat cycles, no constant speed, CHANGE THE OIL after 500 miles (the new gears have a coating on them that will foul oil- it's good to protect the gears while boxed, but bad for the oil and really bad on clutch plates if that's the type of carrier you're cramming them in)...


good luck!

i have been looking all around and have only found 1 14b axel out here in my area with the 4.10 gears, they want $450 for it, but its an open diff.. Theres 2 places that will do them an its $600 labor for front and $650 labor for rear. i found a set of nitro gears front an rear for $650 icludeing the master install kits with bearings an all. the front diffs will not change out because the 3/4T and 1T are larger than the 1/2T.

 

[jeep-N-montero]

re-gearing is an all day event no matter how it's handled, just so you know, or haven't done them before... they have to be extracted carefully, counting shims and accounting for everything, then reinstalled, patterned, extracted, reinstalled, patterned, extracted- at LEAST twice to three times even if you nail it the first time... it's more art than mechanics, and involves little voodoo dolls and chicken bones.. well... it seems like it at times anyway.

I got my last set from Randy's R&P, they were grizzlies in 4.56 flavor- the gears (front and back) were $600ea iirc, and then there was a master install kit for another $200ea... gear oil, rtv, and patience... I now source that job out as it's one of the few things I won't do anymore. there is just too many things that can go wrong and cost a lot- making someone else (a pro) responsible for it if it goes south (howling along the way) is the only way to fly imHo..

swapping axles, as was mentioned, is likely cheaper and easier, and that is a job I'd do solo with very little complaining. He's not steering you wrong, in other words... given the option, it's better to swap axles with a gear well set and tested than it is to introduce new gears and hope you did it right...

if you do regear the existing axles, though, make certain and follow the break-in schedule to a T.... limited heat cycles, no constant speed, CHANGE THE OIL after 500 miles (the new gears have a coating on them that will foul oil- it's good to protect the gears while boxed, but bad for the oil and really bad on clutch plates if that's the type of carrier you're cramming them in)...


good luck!

Not really an issue when you are swapping an entire/complete axle.

 

[Scrib]

ive got a few question about regearing. I own a 99 Chevy suburban (OBS). The rearend is a stock 10 bolt and came stock with GU6 (3.42s) and the G80.. I currently running 33x12.50s and she struggles on the highway and during towing. Every thing ive seen says i need to go to a 3.73. my question is will it help at all with towing and the highway struggle? Also how much if any does it affet my speedo reading? The 33s throw it off approx 3-5 mph at highway speed. Also is th 3.73 best or should i go lower? Any suggestions and advice would gladly be appreciated.

This chart is pretty good: www.offroaders.com/tech/gear-ratio-chart.htm
Just subtract an inch on the tire size, to account for the compression of the tire. I have 34-inch tires (33-inch effective) with 4.56 gears and the factory speedo gear is dead-on ('89 Suburban, though - so maybe a bit different factory combo than yours). 4.11's would be a nice upgrade for you - you won't regret it.

 

[SlinginIron]

Agree with Scrib. Here are some other calculators I have found useful in the past. I hope they will help with your specific application.





[URL="http://www.math-prof.com/Auto/Differential.aspx"]http://www.math-prof.com/Auto/Differential.aspx


http://www.wallaceracing.com/calc-gear-tire-rpm-mph.php

 

[kojackJKU]

ive got a few question about regearing. I own a 99 Chevy suburban (OBS). The rearend is a stock 10 bolt and came stock with GU6 (3.42s) and the G80.. I currently running 33x12.50s and she struggles on the highway and during towing. Every thing ive seen says i need to go to a 3.73. my question is will it help at all with towing and the highway struggle? Also how much if any does it affet my speedo reading? The 33s throw it off approx 3-5 mph at highway speed. Also is th 3.73 best or should i go lower? Any suggestions and advice would gladly be appreciated.

What motor do you have currently? its not an LS correct?

 

[kojackJKU]

I love that burb man! its awesome. I asked you in another thread, what lift did you use, the one piece or multi piece cross member?

 

[thatboykg]

Thanks guys, yea ive been looking at every chart/ calculator and graph on the internet. Lol. I am just going to buy a set of 4.10 gears an gear my current rear end and front diff. According to everything else I've seen the rear end would be an easy swap to 14B but the front diff are different.not only that, id have to swap over to 8 lug wheels. Its lil more expensive for all this
@kojack its the stock 5.7L vortec 350.. not an LS.. And yea i replied i used the tuff country knuckle lift. It has the 1 piece subframe.