I'm back baby..2004 WJ

SWbySWesty

Fauxverland Extraodinaire
After last weekend, I now need:
1. New radiator support...and probably a radiator. Any recommendations? I'll probably get a custom built one.
2. Skid protection - I'm sitting low so I need a gas tank skid (lost about 0.5 gallon capacity ha), I got hung up on my t-case cross member.
3. Rock rails - definitely banged up my rockers
4. Front recovery point
5. Lift

Sigh - I remember this - JustEmptyEveryPocket (to do it right)
 

theksmith

Explorer
After last weekend, I now need:
1. New radiator support...and probably a radiator. Any recommendations? I'll probably get a custom built one.
2. Skid protection - I'm sitting low so I need a gas tank skid (lost about 0.5 gallon capacity ha), I got hung up on my t-case cross member.
3. Rock rails - definitely banged up my rockers
4. Front recovery point
5. Lift

Sigh - I remember this - JustEmptyEveryPocket (to do it right)

sounds like you did a fun trail!
 

madmax718

Explorer
I feel in the same boat with a 2001 WJ 4.0 limited (quadra drive)
Radiator replaced- hydro fan replaced with electric fan conversion.
Bough the factory skid. for the Tcase- apparently the aluminum transfer case is not very durable against hits. While not as crazy as some of the after market skids, im not rock crawling with mine either. (ebay was the cheapest, MOPAR oem parts, came with all mounting stuff). Came standard on overland model.
Front recovery points: Overland model came with two hooks. You can either buy the hooks.. but I don't think its worth it.
Warn Front hitch (free ship from summit) will give you a 2" hitch for recovery, or winch, or whatever else you need. Side benefit is that it protects the vulnerable area below (there is very little except a thin u bar) and even so still lets about 2 " of radiator/condensor exposed. a big twig could puncture it. The warn does not diminish approach angle. The curt one does significantly.

All that stuff cost me less than 500. I also did the rear seat mod (using pins) so that the rear seat can be removed)

Im also chasing this constant vibe/noise at 50+. still no solution yet.

As for rails.. overland models came with a decent set of rails. But for the same price you can get this:
http://www.rocky-road.com/grand-cherokee-rock-sliders.html

I kinda just blew the funds on solar panels (goal zero folding 27 watt mono crystalines for 200 bucks!) So I haven't gotten it yet.

Then again, I have some other plans... so I dunno.
 

bob91yj

Resident **************
I'd recommend that any of you Grand Cherokee guys give the boys at T&J's Performance a call.

http://tandjperformance.com/

I'm a firm believer in race on Sunday, sell on Monday. These guys have built at least one Grand Cherokee for Jeepepeed Racing. They have a fountain of knowledge on what parts to beef up, skid plate, etc. Jeepspeed may sound like overkill, and some of it is, the basic premise of those cars is the same thing we do though, cover a lot of varied terrain...desert racers just do it faster!:smiley_drive:

Overkill, but here's an idea of some of the plating that goes into a Jeepspeed Grand Cherokee.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/desert-racing/796863-shaffers-offroad-builds-grand-speed.html

and an even cooler XJ Cherokee build by some buddies.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/desert-racing/1082739-filarskis-xj-pre-runner-build.html
 
Last edited:

SWbySWesty

Fauxverland Extraodinaire
I don't feel the need to gusset and strengthen anything, nor should I upgrade my Dana 35 "ticking timebomb". I ran a d35 with locker and 33s and stock axle shafts with no problems. Obviously, I don't run trails like The Hammers, but most of my stuff is banging around for fun to see if I can make it. T&J is an awesome place though and their work is superb. It all depends on what the build is for...I'm looking to keep this Jeep from becoming too modified like my XJ build was...unless it was purple like the XJ. Then I'd build it. But tan? Meh... :smiley_drive:
 

bob91yj

Resident **************
I wheeled the crap out of my D35. Mine had 4.88 gears and a Detroit Locker in it, running 33" tires on steel wagon wheels. I ran that Jeep over the Rubicon twice and the Dusy Ershim once. The Jeep (YJ) was loaded with two peeps and supplies for a week on trail. That axle met it's end when I hit a wash out at speed with a full load in the Jeep. Bent the tubes, it still got me home.

I'm still running a D30 (Superior TJ CrMo shafts with CTM joints), 4.88 gears and a Lock Rite lunch box locker, 36" Interco TSL'sx's on steel beadlocks. The web wheelers have been telling me for years that it won't work...works for me just fine.


the Jeepspeed stuff was just to get ideas churning. I've seen GC's go some places over the years. Creature comforts sure beat a Wrangler, especially in your vintage.
 

SWbySWesty

Fauxverland Extraodinaire
Two weeks ago I finally got around to that radiator...truly a pain in the butt, but at a repair estimate of $1,000 I said no. I did it with a buddy, four hours and a little beer.
jeep.jpg

I also received my Airlift bags for the rear. I have to drop the rear control arms to do the install, so it can wait a bit. I'm not planning to haul the bike soon anyways. I've been researching lifts and decided on a basic OME 3.5 kit. What I REALLY want though is a stronger radiator support cross bar. I heard KOR was making one, but I can't find anything. Any protips?
 
Last edited:

theksmith

Explorer
Two weeks ago I finally got around to that radiator...truly a pain in the butt, but at a repair estimate of $1,000 I said no. I did it with a buddy, four hours and a little beer.
View attachment 167888

I also received my Airlift bags for the rear. I have to drop the rear control arms to do the install, so it can wait a bit. I'm not planning to haul the bike soon anyways. I've been researching lifts and decided on a basic OME 3.5 kit. What I REALLY want though is a stronger radiator support cross bar. I heard KOR was making one, but I can't find anything. Any protips?

after having crushed my radiator support resulting in needing a new radiator, a friend stitch welded a piece of 1/4" thick angle-iron to the bottom to help distribute the load from an impact. it has worked so far, i have landed on it a couple times. it won't prevent the sides of the factory support from buckling though, but it's better than nothing till i get a bumper with a full support structure. pics of what he did here: http://offroadpassport.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5129&postcount=142
 

SWbySWesty

Fauxverland Extraodinaire
So I'm thinking of getting the IRO 3" lift kit. I want to avoid the headache I had of the Rubicon Express 4.5" Long Arm install, plus I'm not going for rock crawling...just want to get lift and clear some bigger tires. I want to avoid SYE's or tranny drop kits. They have the 4" lift kit, but with a 1" Tcase drop which means it's really only 3" at that point...might as well save some $.

Thoughts on IRO? I'm also looking at the 3.5" from Old Man Emu, but Rocky Road seems to be the only dealer - and the reviews aren't great.
 

theksmith

Explorer
i'd agree that keeping it at 4" or under will minimize additional problems and cost with a WJ. you have a 2004 which came with a double cardan front shaft instead of the rzeppa, so you should be able to run a full 4" without a t-case drop.

i'm curious why you are against a long-arm and what problems you had before with one? even if you're not going to rock crawl, a long arm will give you a better on-highway ride at 4", below that it probably doesn't matter. 3" is a hard size to find a good kit for with a WJ, most companies sell either 2" budget boosts or jump to 4" full lift kits. that 3" IRO one seems to be sparse on parts (i'd want at least longer lower front control arms, preferably adjustable ones).

i have always heard good things about IRO, but that's been from people running their long arm kits. definitely don't get their default junky shocks, and the DT shocks aren't much better IMO. i'd personally go with their 4" long arm, upgraded shocks, and try it first without the t-case drop. if you get vibes, drop the t-case - sure it's not ideal, but it's not a deal killer. they make a really nice full belly skid too that works with or without a drop.

OME makes great springs and shocks, but they only make a 1.5" lift for the WJ (http://www.jeep4x4center.com/old-man-emu-1-5-suspension-lift-kit-heavy-load-omewjhk.html). that rocky road thing is the OME lift plus some spacers and not much more. 4wheel parts also sells the OME, just listed as ARB instead - same thing. i'd get this if you don't want to go to 4".

if you do want more than the 1.5" and are dead set against long arm, IRO makes a short arm 4" which you can upgrade to have adjustable control arms (but for that price i'd get the long arm kit). otherwise, Rough Country makes a very complete looking short arm kit called the 4" X-Series. Rough Country used to have a bad rep but seem to have improved in the past couple years.

having built rigs before i'm sure you know to stay away from Rusty's, and you are also right about Rocky Road getting tons of bad reviews too.
 
Last edited:

SWbySWesty

Fauxverland Extraodinaire
I didn't have problems with the XJ, but I had wallet problems. haha - the bigger lift meant cutting, then bigger tires. Since the axles were out, might as well add lockers. Since you're opening the diffs, might as well do gears, too. Then custom driveshafts, etc. I spent a small fortune to lift that XJ AND that was doing it with a friend in a garage. I don't have a garage or driveway anymore :( I LOVED my long arms...that XJ rode better than my WJ :smiley_drive: just kidding...maybe...
 

Forum statistics

Threads
189,809
Messages
2,921,152
Members
232,931
Latest member
Northandfree
Top