Jeep Cherokee Widetrack Revival - with questions for the experts - Stoffregen Motorsports

I grew up in northern Minnesota, and was always disgusted by the rate at which new cars succumbed to the salt. Years before my grandfathter passed away, we built him a "classic" 1980 F150 4x4 for use at his home near Lake Superior. It was a clean California truck when we brought it to him and it didn't last five years.
 
The original wheels were actually date coded and stamped with USA. I hated these wheels when I was in my 20s and 30s, but on the right rig, they look great. I did not go with the stock stark white when I had these refinished, and I love the new color.

Tire options for 33" are many, but who can complain about BFG ATs? And of course, white letters out.



Before and after.


 
I took some time to polish parts of the body during the summer. Scraping off hundreds of pine sap droplets made my fingernails fall out, but the results are surprising. I polished the roof rack and tightened up all the brackets, and installed new hardware too.


 
Update - more things keep popping up!

I am still amazed at how letting a vehicle sit is worse for it than actually driving it. The latest part failure was the harmonic balancer. When I had the motor apart, I blasted and inspected the original balancer before I painted it and it looked great. Well, trouble was lurking. It started to separate, and I only caught it by luck, during the removal of the power steering filter. I was able to buy a brand new balancer for $105 from Summit Racing, and it was nearly identical, with the clocking of the four crank pulley bolts being the only difference. A side benefit to a new balancer is that the seal surface is also new, so no more weeping from the crank seal.




What else? Oh, the power steering filter. I never use them, but I decided to install one on this Jeep. Why not, right? Well, it leaked, so I removed it, and I will never use another one ever again.

The roof rack strips - one was missing, so on a trip to the local Jeep wrecking yard, I found another one. Cleaned them all up and polished them, then installed new strips of adhesive tape and screwed them down to the roof. They look great and do not rattle anymore.



Front axle shafts - one of the original u-joints was broken, and I assumed that it destroyed the ears on the shafts as well, so I purchased a used inner and outer shaft from the same wrecking yard. But, when I got my original shaft out, the lengths were wrong. Yes, the overall length (inner and outer shaft, tip to tip) was the same, but the stub shaft was shorter and the inner shaft was longer. Luckily, my original shafts were not damaged by the broken u-joint and I was able to re-use them. I always paint inner shaft too because I hate seeing them get rusty. So with new 760X joints and a coat of paint, they should last forever.




Radiator overflow bottle and windshield washer bottle - both original bottles were broken, and sourcing replacements proved futile, so I decided to go with what I know, and ordered up a pair of new Toyota bottles. The fit would be tricky, but I set to work building a bracket for both of them. I think they look nice.





Dome lights - I don't think I ever showed you guys the new LED dome lights I installed. Here's a pic. It's like daytime in there now.



Oh, and when reassembling the spindles and hubs, I forgot to tighten the two 1/4-20 backing plate screws, so I had to make a wrench to be able to tighten them in their hiding spot behind the brake dust shields. It took more time, but I wasn't going to disassemble the hubs just to get to them.


 
Interesting idea on the Toyo bottles. They look like they belong there!
It was the simplest solution that looked sort of factory. I could not find factory replacements anywhere.

Next is a fan shroud. It occurred to me the other day that the fan I am using is from a TBI 454 big block Chevy and is larger diameter than the stock fan, so a stock shroud won't work. I'll have to make one, but I'll be careful to make it look un-fabricated.
 
I think it's time to start patching the holes in the floor. Ughhh.

I told myself in the beginning that I wasn't going to let the three holes in the floor bother me, and I would get to it when I have time, but having driven it in the wet made me change my mind. Water literally pools on the floor when it's raining.

My normal MO is to remove the body from the chassis and do the repairs "properly", but I have come up with a plan. I'm going to buy a good spot blaster and clean out the couple of joints, then patch those as minimally as possible. There are only two such spots like that, so I don't feel that this is "hack". The two holes in the rear floor (in front of the rear fender wells) can be cut out and replaced entirely. Luckily for the Cherokee, none of the rot is in a spot that will disturb the original orange paint. The two rear sections are in the lower black painted portion of the body, and the two front holes are inside the cab floor. All of the original orange paint will be untouched during these repairs.

I've been dying to make this rig my snow rig. Once the repairs are done, it should be water tight. Should be...
 

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