Lets talk welders and tools

[97kurt]

I used a miter saw once with an abrasive blade, it did work. I think it has to do with the RPM and the actual load put on the motor. My rigid chop saw will flip a 10A breaker every now and then if I am cutting .250 wall square tube.

 

[highdesertranger]

I used a toothed carbide blade. I have a regular abrasive chop saw, but like what has been said they are not very accurate. highdesertranger

 

[Sikocycles]

Just looked at the Ridig at HD. Looks nice for the money.
Still shopping for a welder

 

[NatersXJ6]

Having just spent the weekend working on some fab projects, I feel compelled to add wisdom from my father...

One can NEVER have enough CLAMPS!

I like lots of different vise grip clamps for welding. Just be sure to also spray them with spatter spray.

 

[Happy Joe]

Having spent more than a few years as a metal worker...
Re; Clamps; I agree...more are better and if you are going to skin or build with sheet metal get a bunch of Clecos.
Re; saws install liquid or liquid & air (spray/mist) cooling if you want the blades to last (for band saws in limited use wax or grease helps the blades last). Set up the saws correctly. Check the blade alignment and setup each blade change and reset band saw blade guides close to the metal every use.
Use the right type for the job;
vertical band saw for shapes,
Good quality, properly adjusted horizontal band saw for set it up start it and do something else, or very repetitive, noncritical length cuts.
Vertical blade super heavy duty radial arm saws for extruded aluminum framing.
Heavy duty miter power miter saws, with blade cooling work; but typically metal cutting abuse wears them out more quickly than wood).
Slow speed cold saws (as typically found at your metal distributor for heavy steel tube and angle) are probably the best for heavy steel tube/structural shapes.. but outside the price range of many hobbyists and really only justifiable if you are using them all the time.
Abrasive chop saws for light to medium duty formed sheet (metal studs) or hobby use... Note using too high a feed rate or too much force with cheap abrasive saws will accentuate the disk wander...If you need a really precise fit cut it long and file/grind/mill/sand to desired dimension/finish.
In many cases a good saws-all is another basic shop tool... grease or wax the blade, for cooling, on heavy metal cuts.

Hope it helps...

Enjoy!

 

[Sikocycles]

So will a regular chop saw with abrasive wheel work? Probably not idea but rather have a saw I can do multiple things with.

 

[RagnarD]

I would say no. You need some type of dedicated metal cutting tool.

 

[Itsavanman]

Have to put in my 2c. nothing is cheaper (and more useful) than a stick welder. a good DC stick welder can weld aluminum, thicker sheet (with some skill) and up to 1/2 plate, for usually very cheap, the welds aren't as pretty, but the trade-off is being able to weld pretty much any metal in any condition inside or out. and a good used welder can be had for under 200 clams usually, even cheaper if you don't need a DC welder, I've had my 70s Lincoln buzz box for years, and it always does the trick and never failed. they are slightly harder to use, and choosing the right rod can be confusing at times, but its a good trade I think.

 

[Cummins_expo]

So will a regular chop saw with abrasive wheel work? Probably not idea but rather have a saw I can do multiple things with.

Chop saw with abrasive wheel will get you through! I still have my trusty Harbor freight saw I purchased in a pinch. I figured it would last the length of a project and I would toss it. That was 10 years ago.

 

[Happy Joe]

So will a regular chop saw with abrasive wheel work? Probably not idea but rather have a saw I can do multiple things with.

It depends on You; your budget, present and future needs and skills.
I have built trailers and other projects with a saws-all, a grinder and a buzzbox (stick welder), and assorted hand tools, that are still performing well, having a good solid chop type saw just saves a lot of time fiddling around to prep the join.
Joint prep is critical especially if you use a 110 volt MIG, IMO, even with good prep poor welder setup/practices can make poor joins.
Proper power/adequate amperage and voltage (proper wire and fuse/breaker sizing) to the welder can also be critical.
Abrasive saws can work but also have draw backs, patience is critical, as is setting them up; correct work to blade angle and keeping the piece level with the saw bed, not forcing the disk, cutting on the correct side of the line. etc.. I have used numerous types of saws and all were useable although some were much more labor intensive, and abrasive saws typically make a fountain of sparks (use good safety practices).

"Its a poor workman that blames the tool"; BUT some tools make the job a lot easier, by not creating extra work/prep/cleanup/rework...
Enjoy!

 

[superbuickguy]

Chop saw with abrasive wheel will get you through! I still have my trusty Harbor freight saw I purchased in a pinch. I figured it would last the length of a project and I would toss it. That was 10 years ago.

that so depends on the part - I bought a polisher from HF and took it back 3x before I gave up and bought a Makita... one of those didn't list 2 switch pulls... with that said, I had a Rigid chop saw that was unmitigated crap - so YMMV

I'm brand loyal to Miller welders because I can still buy parts for a welder built in 1970... chop saws? no so much - and the advice before about blades is so true. If I need something perfectly square, I do it by hand.

But with all of that said, buy the best safety equipment your money can afford. chop saws, welders, tools all can be replaced. Your sight, fingers, hearing and such cannot...