Light offroad Casita

toyotatruckjunkie

Adventurer
OK, let me clarify a little. My wife's Schnauzer found her spot under the rear bed right away and like my wife, was out. My Lab however, was on guard all night, with the windows and the door open (just the screeend closed). He has to sleep in the hallway based on size, so he was a bit restless. He'll be ok with more time.

Did they tie the hitch into the frame farther back under the trailer or just weld it onto the new rear bumper? Will it support towing anything or just to be used with accessories like bike racks etc.?

I don't imagine CA allows double tows, but TX does, and I want to tow my 1500 lb boat behind the Casita. The 100 will tow both. I don't suspect the 22RE in the Runner is up to that.

I'm thinking I really need a whole new aftermarket frame, or an additonal frame with hitch incorporated into the rear. I'm thinking a solid piece of 2" stock running from the tongue, all the way to the very rear for a hitch.

While I'm typing; your comment about a wider axle intrgues me. Why? Did you have clearence issues w/ the 235's? Will 3-4" make them stick out of the wheelwells? Would the 45 degreee down change your mind? Would diff backspace on the wheels change your mind? Do you know the width you did end up with?

I know, tons of questions. I appreciate your patience. This trailer consumes my daydreaming.
 

toyotatruckjunkie

Adventurer
Another question for you. Hope you don't mind. Part of the problem going first I guess. If you are sick of it, just let me know.

Does the swing out rear tire of your 100 clear the trailer tongue? I'm afraid one like on my Runner won't clear. Another reason for a custom extended tongue.
 

wesel123

Explorer
Another question for you. Hope you don't mind. Part of the problem going first I guess. If you are sick of it, just let me know.

Does the swing out rear tire of your 100 clear the trailer tongue? I'm afraid one like on my Runner won't clear. Another reason for a custom extended tongue.

No worries on the questions buddy. Keep them coming. Pics are hard on my part because my storage unit closes at 5 and I can't make it there after work. So I apologize for pics taking a while (ala hitch).

Anyway the gate clears with no problem at all. I’m sure it will depend on the brand and length of the arm but I'm all good. I have the ARB rear bumper with the tire on the passenger side.
 

Aids10

xploraz.net
I was thinking of mounting the tv that way but was worried that the cabinet rivites would give way and come crashing down. It gets crazy bumpy on the tail end of these trailers.

Hows that holding up????


Perfectly :victory:

Weight must be within limits, or it might be the fact that the mount has a rigid pole and does not allow any bouncing to occur?
 

TexGX

Explorer
Wesel,

Great build. I have a 06 17ft SD. I have my TV mounted the same way as Aids10 for four years with no problems. My TV is a 19in model. Becarefull staring to Mod these trailers. What I have done so far:

1. Replaced all cabnet doors with real wood
2. Custom interior (wife did that)
3. AC mod. This makes the ac work like the one in the house. On and Off at set temp.
4. Custom fridge cover
5. HD TV and DVD player (about to convert to car stereo that plays DVDs)
6. Have my tanks running my outside stove

To Do:

1. Solar or generator
2. A mod similar to your mod
3. Replace J trap with one way valve
4. Fast grey tank mod

Here is the link to some of my mods:

http://www.casitaclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=6867&hl=texgx
 

Every Miles A Memory

Expedition Leader
Since you have a smooth skin... consider suction cups? and run a long wire. That way you can unmount... place panel on a tripod or stake, away from the camper.

I'm not sure about suction cups, but while on the road, we met a German couple that had brought their Travel Trailer over here to spend 5 years traveling the America's

He told us in Europe, they almost never screw thru their outer skins, they all just use a glue. I asked about it thinking this would be a joke, but he said they've been doing it for years, and their camper had 2 panels that had been mounted for over 5 years with no issues.

As for the camper itself, Awesome Idea, we've been looking into down sizing from our Suline to a Casita for awhile now.

One thing you might think about, and I dont know this from experience, but just thinking about it, make up some supports that could be put in place between the counters and upper shelves to help distribute the weight of the upper cabinets while driving off-road.

Once made up, these could be placed before you leave camp and taken down as soon as you stop and help to relieve the cracks

Good luck, and I'll be watching this very closely!!
 

wesel123

Explorer
I'm not sure about suction cups, but while on the road, we met a German couple that had brought their Travel Trailer over here to spend 5 years traveling the America's

He told us in Europe, they almost never screw thru their outer skins, they all just use a glue. I asked about it thinking this would be a joke, but he said they've been doing it for years, and their camper had 2 panels that had been mounted for over 5 years with no issues.

As for the camper itself, Awesome Idea, we've been looking into down sizing from our Suline to a Casita for awhile now.

One thing you might think about, and I dont know this from experience, but just thinking about it, make up some supports that could be put in place between the counters and upper shelves to help distribute the weight of the upper cabinets while driving off-road.

Once made up, these could be placed before you leave camp and taken down as soon as you stop and help to relieve the cracks

Good luck, and I'll be watching this very closely!!


Good thinking on the cabinet support. I talked about doing that exact same thing eariler in the thread but more perminant, didn't think about a temporary support, gald to see I'm not the only guy who WAY over engineers everything:wings:. A 1" wood dowel would work good I'll just need to find a material that won't mare the surface of the counter top.


Did you happen to get an idea from the German guy about what kind of glue??? I want to make sure that I'm not going to put anything on that would either A) eat the fiberglass (react to paint and such) or B)be strong enough.
 

Every Miles A Memory

Expedition Leader
A 1" wood dowel would work good I'll just need to find a material that won't mare the surface of the counter top.


Did you happen to get an idea from the German guy about what kind of glue??? I want to make sure that I'm not going to put anything on that would either A) eat the fiberglass (react to paint and such) or B)be strong enough.

I was thinking to have some 2" pieces of metal, maybe polish them so they look cool and like they're supposed to be there glued to the surface of the counter to help distribute the weight and not mar the surface of the counter?? Just thinking out loud.

I'll have to see if I cant dig up the guys business card. I have a small box filled with everyone's card we meet along the road. It had his email and phone number on it and I'll send you a PM

Another thing to do is find a West Marine Catalog. Jim (1Speed on this forum) and I were just talking about this topic over the weekend. The Marine industry is years ahead of the RV/Trailer industry. They've been building things that will take non-stop abuse for centuries, and almost any time I see something new in the RV Industry, it's been tested and proven for decades in the Marine industry.

There is a few 3M Adhesives/Sealants (5200 Series) that are made to bond materials to the hull of a boat below the waterline. They are spuer weather resistant and once cured, they form a watertight, yet flexible bond.

You might want to look there first
 

pcampbell

Adventurer
Just FYI...if you ever plan on taking it back apart, you might consider 4200. 5200 is major strong and almost impossible to remove the parts without damaging the pieces.
 

wesel123

Explorer
I was thinking to have some 2" pieces of metal, maybe polish them so they look cool and like they're supposed to be there glued to the surface of the counter to help distribute the weight and not mar the surface of the counter?? Just thinking out loud.

I'll have to see if I cant dig up the guys business card. I have a small box filled with everyone's card we meet along the road. It had his email and phone number on it and I'll send you a PM

Another thing to do is find a West Marine Catalog. Jim (1Speed on this forum) and I were just talking about this topic over the weekend. The Marine industry is years ahead of the RV/Trailer industry. They've been building things that will take non-stop abuse for centuries, and almost any time I see something new in the RV Industry, it's been tested and proven for decades in the Marine industry.

There is a few 3M Adhesives/Sealants (5200 Series) that are made to bond materials to the hull of a boat below the waterline. They are spuer weather resistant and once cured, they form a watertight, yet flexible bond.

You might want to look there first

Sweet thanks. That store is another wallet drainer.
 

toyotatruckjunkie

Adventurer
Ok, now you're talking. I have been planning/dreaming of a LOT of crossover from the marine industry to the Casita. Not sure if it's the fiberglass that reminds me of my boats or what. I can't let all my ideas out yet. Would prefer to post pics of my completed mods.

Anything new Wesel? I never heard what was driving the need for spacers.? Just curious before I decide on the width for my axle.
 

wesel123

Explorer
Ok, now you're talking. I have been planning/dreaming of a LOT of crossover from the marine industry to the Casita. Not sure if it's the fiberglass that reminds me of my boats or what. I can't let all my ideas out yet. Would prefer to post pics of my completed mods.

Anything new Wesel? I never heard what was driving the need for spacers.? Just curious before I decide on the width for my axle.

Nothing new so far. Just got a new to me 1150 GSA so funds are going that way.

I want my track to be wider. May help with sway and offroad stability. Even with the ac and all the things low it still is top heavy. So my theory is a wider track will get stability back......wow that was corny.......
 

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