Light weight rock crawler trailer

Woods

Explorer
Am building a trailer capable of making it through the Rubicon Trail.

I plan to build a removable box, with slide out kitchen.

The box will be 70" X 48". I'll do a tailgate door and a hinged top.

I think I'm going to make my own stove. I like the Partner stoves, but want more power.

I've purchase a light weight 10 lb. propane tank LINK

Flojet Quiet Quad pump for sink and shower LINK.

EMPI Volkwagen (lowered) front shocks: LINK

Max Coupler.

7 post trailer plug with charging of trailer battery with a Toad Charge System LINK

Found a light weight white polymer trailer tongue box: LINK

Plastic coated, self coiling safety chains: LINK

Heavy duty stainless steel hinges, with full bearing design: LINK (Home Depot)

Stainless sink: LINK (IKEA)

I modified (shortened) a cargo bar that I purchased from Harbor Freight LINK to support the fold out galley. It's got well over a foot of adjust-ability for when the trailer is not parked on level ground.

Campchef water heater - The mounts are not very strong, so I strapped it with large zip-ties. The head has too much flow and I don't really like the water valve on it, so I'm going to be changing those parts out.

I purchased a Sea-Dog LINK switch panel with 5 switches and a cigarette lighter socket LINK

I wasn't happy with any of the sleeping pads that I could find, so I made my own. I purchased some nylon cloth and had some foam cut to 2.5" thick. Figured with all the new room, I'd have space to store large sleeping pads. Figured wrong. I'm just a little tight on space and will be enlarging the lid on the trailer.

I purchased a Teflon coated nestable cookware set by Magma Products LINK Nicey but pricey. I felt these are well worth the dough as cleaning them out on the trail is much easier than non-Teflon coated pots and pans. This is a VERY high quality set. One issue though. The piece on the side of each pot, where the handle attaches is pretty sharp. I'm certain that these parts would scratch the Teflon coating in each of the pots. To fix this, I purchased some heavy felt and cut out two pieces that fit in the pots accordingly.


To do list:
Build and install stove
Misc. plumbing and electrical to clean things up



What I would have done differently. (Will keep updating this as the project moves along)

Would have added brakes - Could still do it.
The kitchen counter is 24" deep. The sink determines the minimum depth (20") and I should have gone with that.
Given how much money I spent on spray paint, I would have at least got a bid on powder coating. To me, powder coating would be worth an extra couple hundred bucks. Maybe more.


4/5 After powder coating
a20with20box.jpg


July. 2012 Galley Video:
 
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grimbo

Explorer
I may be way off base as I haven't rock crawled with a trailer but having it too light you may find that it will tend to jump around. I would imagine that some weight and substance in the trailer would mean it would "work" itself on the obstacles alot better.

Will be keen to see how it turns out though, always interesting to see purpose built trailers evolve
 

TacoDell

Adventurer
those small co's don't look like they'd carry much weight... air bags ?

will be neat to see where this goes :)
 

Woods

Explorer
I may be way off base as I haven't rock crawled with a trailer but having it too light you may find that it will tend to jump around. I would imagine that some weight and substance in the trailer would mean it would "work" itself on the obstacles alot better.

Will be keen to see how it turns out though, always interesting to see purpose built trailers evolve

Weight is everything on the rocks. I've wheeled with guys hauling trailers before and we are continually amazed at the effects of pulling dead weight.


those small co's don't look like they'd carry much weight... air bags ?

will be neat to see where this goes :)

You are correct. In the old config, 170 lbs. on the back of the trailer bottomed out the suspension. I ditched those coil overs and am changing to air bags and shocks.
 

JeepDork

Adventurer
tongue

Great idea on the trailer. I really really like it, I think it will work great at 500lbs. I know you aren't done and I might be jumping the gun... but the only thing I would add is I would beef up the tongue area at the front of the box. When you weld to the front of the frame it makes for a not as strong tongue as going under and attaching at both frame rails AND the front rail. This isn't as big of a concern because you are going so light. It is a concern when you have those wheels dropped off a ledge and are pulling at them from every angle. Your trailer is going to see an unusual amount of side loading on the tongue. Glad to see you are building an "a frame" tongue. I am really curious to see how this comes out. I need to build a lighter smaller trailer to pull off road behind my jeep. I will be following your build, good luck!
 

Woods

Explorer
I'm planning to weld in some tongue box cross members today. I'll then post a picture of what I've done to attach to the frame. Will be interested to see if you thinks it's enough, or if I should add to it.


Great idea on the trailer. I really really like it, I think it will work great at 500lbs. I know you aren't done and I might be jumping the gun... but the only thing I would add is I would beef up the tongue area at the front of the box. When you weld to the front of the frame it makes for a not as strong tongue as going under and attaching at both frame rails AND the front rail. This isn't as big of a concern because you are going so light. It is a concern when you have those wheels dropped off a ledge and are pulling at them from every angle. Your trailer is going to see an unusual amount of side loading on the tongue. Glad to see you are building an "a frame" tongue. I am really curious to see how this comes out. I need to build a lighter smaller trailer to pull off road behind my jeep. I will be following your build, good luck!
 

Woods

Explorer
Here's a pic, that shows a little more detail, on how the tongue is attached to the frame. There is a plate welded to the bottom on the square middle tube. The side rails are beefed up with a plate that will also support the swing arm. There are two middle supports that attach to the frame also. (trailer is upside down)

t5_1.jpg


Picture with detail of a side plate:
t6.jpg
 
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Woods

Explorer
small update

I have the frame finished. No suspension, bare frame weight is about 125 lbs.

Combined weight for swing arms is 68 lbs. Guess we can see where I'm putting my money.

Will try to post some pics tomorrow.


.
 
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VanIsle_Greg

I think I need a bigger truck!
Looking great man. A fello Jeeper I met here in Victoria is doing much the same, lightweight offroad trailer build. He is a boat builder by trade, and is building a wood/epoxy/glass trailer tub on a lightweight steel frame.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/65881-My-Woody-expo-trailer.

EDIT: His build thread is on here as well...

Just thought you might find this thread similar and interesting. You started with the frame, he started with the tub, together one sick and LIGHT offroad trailer!

:D

Subscribed.
 
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Woods

Explorer
Took some pics but they didn't turn out. Got a paint tip video though.

Starting a "what I would have done differently" section, on the OP.

Will get some better pics tomorrow.

Paint Tip Vid:
 

Toolman

Explorer
I've rock crawled with my trailer it makes it more fun and challenging,
I would take it out on some local trails to work out the bugs before you pull it on the Rubicon though.

Good luck and I'll watch the build.
 

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