Low amp, wet location connection for truck bed

[DaveInDenver]

Those PP outlets are a little spendy.

I carry my fridge in the curbside rear passenger space on a slide, but I may still add a standard 12V power point to the rear of the bed. It's too common to completely ditch. For my fridge cord, I'm thinking about ordering another to convert to Powerpole so I can go both ways. That would also make it less likely that someone would unplug the fridge from the center console to charge their phone (again).

What bed stiffener brackets are those? I've considered adding some if the GFC frame doesn't keep the bed sides together.

I have an Engel cable with Powerpoles, too. I convert almost everything 12V to Powerpoles because it's universal and I have a lot of amateur radio stuff, so it's interoperable. The fridge is really the only thing that doesn't use them regularly but that's only because she won't let me hack the rear outlet in her Forester...

The stiffeners are At The Helm.

At The Helm Fabrication – Custom Off Road Products for Toyota and Jeep

athfab.com

 

[shade]

I haven't used my fridge in another vehicle, but I know that as soon as I convert the cord to PP, I'll have to use it somewhere else. Wits' End sure is proud of their fridge cables.

 

[Bayou Boy]

I chopped my fridge cable for an SAE connector. Just used the other end with the cig plug on it with another SAE connector on it if i need to plug it in someone.

 

[john61ct]

Just buy or make up pigtail adapters from PP to whatever else you need

 

[DaveInDenver]

FYI to anyone not familiar with Engel cigarette plugs, there's a unique thermal fuse so you may want to leave enough pigtail and retain the actual Engel plug to make a Powerpole adapter for those fridges. The hardwire (like for MT60) harness or if you remove the cigarette adapter and just use the two blades in the ARB kit both remove the thermal fuse, so it's only a factor with cigarette sockets. It was apparently done due to some regulation in Japan for prevent accessories from melting the sockets free of plastic dashes.

 

[john61ct]

Most SAE are completely anonymous cheap Chinese stuff, can't find a proper datasheet.

I believe when I went looking for a known-good maker's data sheet, they rated 5? maybe 6A?

They do wear loose after not too many duty cycles.

 

[shade]

Now that I have some wire and a nice crimper on the way, where can I pick up a non-crap assortment of insulated terminals for 10-18 AWG?

 

[DaveInDenver]

Now that I have some wire and a nice crimper on the way, where can I pick up a non-crap assortment of insulated terminals for 10-18 AWG?

I usually use these from Waytek: https://www.waytekwire.com/products/1427/Eyelets/&Special-Features=Heavy-Duty
Or these from Delcity: https://www.delcity.net/store/Heavy!Duty-Copper-Lugs/p_1012.h_92198

You can get Thomas & Betts from Allied: https://www.alliedelec.com/crimp-terminals-lugs-twist-on-splices/lugs/

 

[DaveInDenver]

For the smaller sizes these: https://www.delcity.net/store/Non!Insulated-Ring-Terminals/p_823560.h_806204
Or Versakrimp (Molex) from Mouser: https://www.mouser.com/Molex/Connec...0z248Z1z0z4xuZ1z0z25hZ1yzxc0hZ1z0zlewZ1yilumv

 

[john61ct]

I like the heat shrink terminals from FTZ, one good source is SailboatOwners.com

Non heat-shrink I like AMP's PIDG line.

Most critical is a known-trustworthy supplier, counterfeits abound.

Aircraft Spruce, Jameco,

of course allied, digikey, newark/e14 and mouser

I probably already linked to here but https://marinehowto.com/marine-wire-termination/

 

[shade]

Thanks, all. I have a few 3M terminals on hand, but I know I need to restock. I somehow missed that crimping article while I was crawling around his site.

 

[john61ct]

Worth revisiting and parsing closely.

The more you integrate from other sources and experience, the more it all clicks together.

 

[shade]

Marine domain called clams

aka water-tight Cable Glands / Cable Bushings / Cord Grip Connectors

key modifier word is split, so the bushing gets assembled after the terminal is crimped, large connectors easily passed through the "grommet" hole

with Strain Relief more secure

just FYI

Back to this.

Does anyone have some suggested brands or retailers with a decent assortment of clams/glands? SailboatOwners.com looks like a good source, but I'm unfamiliar with what's good & not-so-good.

I'm starting to figure out wire routing, and I'll need a cable clam or two for routing wire into & out of the rear cab of my truck. I don't want to do it, but I think the best location will be on the rear wall of the cab, which will mean moving the truck bed back for installation. The other option would be through the floor of the truck, but I want to avoid blowing a hole through there. I still need to poke around to see if I can find an existing hole, but the rear wall of the cab seems the most likely location since it's central to the house battery, charge controllers, and the bed of the truck where most of the load circuits will be located.

 

[john61ct]

Blue Sea

Defender http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1|328|2289986&id=2289996

PKSYS

How to pass large wire connectors through deck . Or cut and resplice - Cruisers & Sailing Forums

I've used swan necks from (kato marine) to pass my mast wires through the deck . A little pricey but well made and easy on the eyes. I've also used the scan strut multi cable deck seal. Which is nice

www.cruisersforum.com

Google Search

www.google.com

 

[shade]

Thanks, John. I started looking at Newmar options, and will go through those sites. I really want this to be a one-time install, especially if I have to pull the truck bed bolts for access.

A pair of these might handle everything I'll ever need.

Marine Cable Pass Throughs

Explore our selection of cable pass throughs for boats. Includes products by Blue Sea Systems, Scanstrut, Sea-Dog and more.

www.defender.com