Mark's '95 fzj80...

Pskhaat

2005 Expedition Trophy Champion
I think maybe I do remeber reading about these, but I don't think I have the factory wiring in my 1996?
 

Brian894x4

Explorer
Mlachica said:
Thank you all for the support...

Very nice! I love the color. :D

Just got done doing my diffs and x-fer case, and greasing the joints. Very easy stuff. I started to do the powersteering fluid by doing the easy suck out what you can and refill method, but that didn't work well at all. The stuff that came looked all grey and nasty, and I only have 86K miles. I'll be doing the flush methold you mentioned real soon. Can you point to the Mobil 1 ATF thread for me? That was the brand I was going to use, but now I'm not so sure. I'm about to do the oil now.

Man, you can broke filling up these things. I used almost 8 quarts in the diffs, 2 quarts in the x-fer case and the engine will need about 7 quarts.

I wouldn't feel bad about the dealer doing the tranny and coolent flush. I'm planning on going that route also. I don't have a tranny flush machine and it's hard to flush coolent when you don't have an easy way to capture and dispose of the stuff. I hope the dealer actually does flush the systems. I know they like to take short cuts.

I like your rig. Looks really nice. Cool score.
 

Mlachica

TheRAMadaINN on Instagram
Boston Mangler said:
How is the steering with that setup? In theory, that should have your caster out of whack quite a bit. Usually even just the J's are pushing it with the correction bushings.

It does wander a bit...what is expected with poor caster? Any negative effects or additional wear?
 
Last edited:

RAM5500 CAMPERTHING

OG Portal Member #183
Mlachica said:
It does wonder a bit...what is expected with poor caster? Any negative effects or additional wear?

With at much (or little) caster, there wont be any wear issues per say, but you will experience wandering, and the wheel wont return to center as easy/quick as it should.
 

Mlachica

TheRAMadaINN on Instagram
Brian894x4 said:
Just got done doing my diffs and x-fer case, and greasing the joints. Very easy stuff. I started to do the powersteering fluid by doing the easy suck out what you can and refill method, but that didn't work well at all. The stuff that came looked all grey and nasty, and I only have 86K miles. I'll be doing the flush methold you mentioned real soon. Can you point to the Mobil 1 ATF thread for me? That was the brand I was going to use, but now I'm not so sure. I'm about to do the oil now.

Man, you can broke filling up these things. I used almost 8 quarts in the diffs, 2 quarts in the x-fer case and the engine will need about 7 quarts.

I wouldn't feel bad about the dealer doing the tranny and coolent flush. I'm planning on going that route also. I don't have a tranny flush machine and it's hard to flush coolent when you don't have an easy way to capture and dispose of the stuff. I hope the dealer actually does flush the systems. I know they like to take short cuts.

I like your rig. Looks really nice. Cool score.

Back to your 35's and stock gearing question...

It's sluggish, I haven't done any hills with it but I'm sure it's super slow. On the street it's not horrible, just not quick. I'm sure the regear will do the trick.

Here's the thread about the mobil 1, also the writeup for flushing the ps fluid: HERE
Which I found through here. It's the 80 maint faq on mud.
Another good one for you, if you haven't found already is the 90k maint sched. also on mud here

Regarding the ps fluid, on mud they're saying a little bit of downey fabric softener will quiet down the groan. Sounds crazy, but apparently many have had success with it. What do you think?

No kidding about the fluids, I might as well buy a 55gal drum...geeze. :Mechanic:

I think I like the color of yours more!
 

adventureduo

Dave Druck [KI6LBB]
Boston Mangler said:
With at much (or little) caster, there wont be any wear issues per say, but you will experience wandering, and the wheel wont return to center as easy/quick as it should.

And it will twitch really easy if you yank the wheel. It can get out of hand if you had to make a quick move. At least that's what i noticed before installing my caster bushings.
 

RAM5500 CAMPERTHING

OG Portal Member #183
Mlachica said:
just not quick. I'm sure the regear will do the trick.

You are in for a sad awakeing my friend! Welcome to the world of "Worlds Most Capable Land Slugs"! :D

Mlachica said:
Regarding the ps fluid, on mud they're saying a little bit of downey fabric softener will quiet down the groan. Sounds crazy, but apparently many have had success with it. What do you think?

No offense, but............ Ahh nevermind! :D

I wouldnt even consider doing that! Who knows what long term effects it might have :eek:

An FZJ80 Steering box is around $1450, no way and i am going to risk messing it up! :D
 

Mlachica

TheRAMadaINN on Instagram
Boston Mangler said:
You are in for a sad awakeing my friend! Welcome to the world of "Worlds Most Capable Land Slugs"! :D

I'm ready for that, I just want some low end back!

Boston Mangler said:
I wouldnt even consider doing that! Who knows what long term effects it might have :eek:

An FZJ80 Steering box is around $1450, no way and i am going to risk messing it up! :D

I wanted to hear that. I ordered jack stands and they should be here tue/wed. Then I can do the flush. I think I'm going to try redline atf.

I flushed the brakes yesterday, eewww weeee. It was like I was flushing out a dark ale! Now it looks like diluted corona light. I went through an entire quart. I'll probably do it again in a week or two, just to make sure it's super clean.

After reading many complaints about the brakes on the 80 and actually rompin' on the brakes yesterday, I thought they felt really good. I wasn't loaded down with 44 extra gallons of gas or anything but with 35's, they felt great.

Is brake fade really common with a loaded down 80? What's everybody's opinion on slees rotors?
 

RAM5500 CAMPERTHING

OG Portal Member #183
Mlachica said:
Is brake fade really common with a loaded down 80?

Oh yes!

Mlachica said:
What's everybody's opinion on slees rotors?

Honestly, i dont know of anyone that has a set to give feedback on them. Folks that run the DBA's love them as well!

Slees rotors havent been out all that long, so longevity feedback wont be there
 

Mlachica

TheRAMadaINN on Instagram
drawers, gears, rebuild, wheels

Here's some ramblings of what's been happening with the 80...

After my last update I received my african outback drawers w/fridge slide, along with 4 aob load bars and a cdl switch. The drawers are in and they are amazing, I love them. They're built tough and they're silent. I feel very comfortable holding 60lbs of tools, all of my recovery gear and misc stuff in the drawers. The extreme aire fits perfectly in the passenger side pocket, however I may end up using a york :sombrero:

I still need to remove my factory rack :ar15: I didn't know this is such a big deal. One day while I had free time I attempted to remove 4 of 8 screws that hold down the rack. 3 of the 4 just spin...I then read on mud that these racks were a port installed option and they used crappy nutserts that corrode to the screw. So now I have to drill those 3 screw heads, and try to lube the 4 I never touched. I'll also need to drop the headliner to remove the nutserts as I heard they can break free and get caught in the sunroof rails - not good. When I drop the headliner I'll likely install a 2m antenna at the rear of the roof as well as wire in a rear cargo light. FWIW in either 94 or 95 they discontinued leaving a wire harness for the rear most cargo light, so I'll have to run the wires myself - no biggie.

I also ordered some other goodies from cdan - oem aux battery stuff, oem locker switch, fr axle rebuild kit, plugs, cap rotor & gasket. I have to move my arb compressor using slee's stuff so that I can mount my aux battery, this will be little while. I also want to wire up my lockers with the oem switch so I have the clean look and I can free up some light switch slots. I plan on using the factory locker dash indicators as well, I already have the parts.

2 weeks ago I dropped off my 80 to have it regeared to 4.88's. I went with reverse cut yukon's in the front and sierra's in the rear - thanks Kurt (cruiseroutfitters). The shop however didn't live up to their reputation. I got it back 3 days later and it whined between 25-55 mph and my rear locker didn't hold any air. After A LOT of disputing they finally fixed the noise and fixed the air leak. In their defense I brought the truck in with my own parts and they told me no warranty. However, I don't think the truck should have been released to me in said condition. All I wanted was my truck working properly. They tried so hard to get me to pay for something, anything. Without doing any troubleshooting they wanted me to pay to rebuild the rear arb. So finally after 4 more days at the shop, it was returned to me in the condition I expected the first time. Anyhow, it's working great now - no hard feelings, I just won't recommend them :smilies27

Yesterday, thanks to BostonMangler (he rocks!) we (read He) rebuilt my front end. According to the gear shop, I needed new wheel bearings and a new passenger inner axle. They were correct - the wheel bearings were scored and the inner axle was scored bad where the axle seal rides. So now my front axle is in tip top condition with all new oem seals/wipers/wheel bearings/trunnion bearings etc. I also upgraded to dba longlife slotted rotors with the kangaroo venting ;) and pbr 4wd pads. Thanks Kevin for your hard work!

Oh and I traded my bling bling 16x12 :yikes: for the factory rims!

Yes I know, this thread is useless without pics - I'm sorry, I need a new laptop. any recommendations? 2gig ram, at least 100 gig hd, 256 vid card, wireless, bluetooth.

I'll update with pics this week as well as what's next...
 

Mlachica

TheRAMadaINN on Instagram
Another shop boo boo I just addressed... the wheel lug nuts were tightened at about 150 ftlbs
 

RAM5500 CAMPERTHING

OG Portal Member #183
pskhaat said:
Wow, yeah 100lbs is just about right..

The Torque Spec is different for 93-94 and for 95-97's

The 93-94 rims have tapered holes and tapered lugs

The 95-97 rims do not, they have a staight Lug with a Straight hole that is held in by a diffent style nut (forget the official name)

The 2 different lugs have different torque specs, i have chatted with the famous "CDan" on this topic before and he explained why they need to be torqued differently, etc....

I wont post any #'s because i am not sure!
 

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