My camper ideas, thoughts, and plans...

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Thanks for the ideas dzzz.

attached is my version
- outward right hand door to hide toilet
- you need three risers for 24 inch of stairs, the last riser can be closer to the rear tire as it's higher
- I took out the L counter and gave access to a large closet with the water tank on the floor
-I turned the tire
-I would go back 18 inches with a cut to maintain depature angle. Put the 'cut' under the couch


There is no need for the angle cut on the back. The factory departure angle and bed length are maintained on an L37 wheelbase with this design. All the bedding also gets stored under the 'couch'. Basically the rear of the camper is even with the factory bumper. On the L37 the rear tire is almost at the rear most portion of the bed.

I think in a perfect world you would need a more stairs, but a single foot stair would be enough for us. The wasted space between the bathroom and tire could be occupied by the gray water tank shaped in a triangle. The water from the sinks could gravity flow to this easily. I could hide a small sump type pump in the triangle stair to pump the shower water up from the shower pan into the tank ( if it wasn't cool to just let it water the ground with a simple drain hose ). The toilet is a cassette style so it doesn't go in the tank.

I like your idea for turning the tire, but it does shift the counter space and sink away from the water tank. With my design they are almost right on top of each other. All the plumbing can be located under the sink corner space with an outside door to access it.

I think the L-shaped kitchen would also work better for cooking and cleaning while seated on a simple stool. You shouldn't have to move your position in order to access the sink, stove, prep counter, and fridge.

I like the large closet, but I don't know if it would be any bigger than my design. The only thing I have stored in the back are clothes and bedding. In your design I loose a lot of kitchen storage space I think. I would have to have cupboard above to gain back the space. I also think that I would have a hard time fitting the microwave, fridge, sink ( and plumbing ), and stove in the straight wall kitchen, especially with the long outside storage cabinet below this area.

Battery space is limited in my design, especially if I want to keep the batteries forward with the weight down. I could sneak a large battery in the area wasted in front of where the spare tire rolls in. I could also install one in the wasted space behind the fuel tank on the drivers side. I would like the camper to be fairly independent however......basically I would like it to be able to be pulled from the unimog and placed on a cradle to be used at the ranch as extra room for guests ( and I can use the 'mog for other stuff too)

Thanks or all the ideas. I hope people keep posting there thoughts.
 

dzzz

If you go to 36 inches high on the bath vanity you can get some batteries under the counter from the street side. That will be a tall space, so you can have storage above.

Vanities are normally 30" as a compromise height for smaller children.

With fuel and tire on street side, the batteries really need to be curb side. It would also be good to have the center of the water tank curb side.

On a mog I don't believe you can tell the difference between the spare tire forward or on the back. Especially with a short camper.

Also, I think the cost of Nida core is inconsistent with worrying about departure angle and weight distribution. You won't want to risk damage going anywhere tough.

Several companies will make whole wall sections with a tougher exterior. These solutions will weigh more, but you can build your shell in a weekend. I'm unsure at this point as to the cost savings over Nidacore. But a whole wall solution does save the time/cost connecting the panels and additional interior insulation installation.

With what's available today, the turtle nidacore build is very cumbersome. Especially for an over 1 ton truck.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
If you go to 36 inches high on the bath vanity you can get some batteries under the counter from the street side. That will be a tall space, so you can have storage above.

The bathroom vanity does not sit on the same level as the toilet. The vanity sink sits on the 'floor' of the main camper section. There is only approx 22-24" of width outside the frame for the drop down with the intended width of the camper.

With fuel and tire on street side, the batteries really need to be curb side. It would also be good to have the center of the water tank curb side.

The balance of the camper is still off, I agree. I am still working on the design to centralize the weight forward and towards the middle of the camper.

The spare tire is generally a static weight, it doesn't change really, so that is why i decided to move it as far forward as possible. In the end it may not even be connected to the camper, it may sit on the frame to lower the height to make removal and install easier.

One question I have is...how much battery is enough? I was planning on 2 of the group 31 Diehard/oddessey batteries. Do you think that will be enough to run a small fridge, 12v microwave, etc ?

On a mog I don't believe you can tell the difference between the spare tire forward or on the back. Especially with a short camper.

Its not only about the weight, but also about the overall length. I disagree about the spare tire weight. That 300 (?) pounds would constantly be behind the rear axle. It not only makes the rear axle heavier, it also actually takes weight OFF the front axle by the lever effect its position would have. It also has a pretty drastic effect on the moment of inertia of the chassis. I feel that on something big and heavy like a mog, it would be better to have all the weight you can in the most compact area. That is why the kitchen, water tank, plumbing, spare tire, etc are all as close as possible to each other.


Also, I think the cost of Nida core is inconsistent with worrying about departure angle and weight distribution. You won't want to risk damage going anywhere tough.

Several companies will make whole wall sections with a tougher exterior. These solutions will weigh more, but you can build your shell in a weekend. I'm unsure at this point as to the cost savings over Nidacore. But a whole wall solution does save the time/cost connecting the panels and additional interior insulation installation.

With what's available today, the turtle nidacore build is very cumbersome. Especially for an over 1 ton truck.

The aluminum/nidacore system is for weight reduction. Overall its as strong as you want to make it. There are some similar products on the market now too that have the cells filled with foam for insulation.

Are there any systems that are lighter, stronger, and more insulated than a nidacore system ( or similar honeycomb structural composite )? I could dream about molding the entire camper in a carbon fiber/foam composite shell. Then just cut the holes I need for doors and windows.

Note: I think another good point of the large open air panel/window system would be that it provides an excellent point of entry for the replacement of larger items like the refrigerator or bed. I don't have to worry about those items fitting out the door.

Once of the main goals of this project is not only weight distribution, but also weight reduction. While I want a full featured camper that will make bad weather camping possible, I also want it to be as light as practical. This was one of the main motivations behind doing this fixed top design. I don't know how light I can really get everything, but in the future when I fully model the final design I can get a pretty darn good estimate.

Thank you for the continued conversation! I appreciate you sharing your opinions and viewpoint.
 

dzzz

My point on vanity height was to give about 12" clearance for a couple batteries. At a standard vanity height you only have six inches, which isn't worth much.

I'm also looking at that space in the vanity being open towards the storage space. The batteries may protrude a bit into that space. But it still gets the weight towards that side. It's one of the few ways in your design to shift weight.

In my design I have the batteries on center, and a 150g water tank offsetting a 120g fuel tank. While that balance isn't perfect, it is controllable.
I'm not so much concerned about managing weight as the time without resupply.
 

Randwolfe

New member
Thanks for all the discussion! I am watching this thread with interest, as I hope to pick up a Pinzgauer 712 AMB-S for conversion to a self-contained expedition camper, with a possible shelter stretch of up to 800mm.

The dual purpose of a mudroom/shower is an ingenious solution for the extemely limited space of the box. Once I have a chance to gather my thoughts, I hope to start a Pinz Camper thread.

Cheers
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Thank you, I really like the entry/mudroom/shower/bath idea. With the limited height of the camper it can also function as a dressing room with full standing height. On the road it makes it very easy to stop for a bathroom break if you are not feeling well since its the first thing in the camper.

The limitation is that you have to go through the bathroom to get into the camper. So if someone is using it you have to wait to enter or exit. Honestly I don't think it would be a big deal with 2 people.

With the 'panel' pop open 'window' on the side like BiMobil does you could also enter or exit in that area if you really needed to....when its open.
 

Randwolfe

New member
The key is whether you are adapting an existing structure, or building a new one. With an existing structure you may wish to make accomodations to fit the existing constraints, but with a new structure you have the proverbial blank sheet to work with, getting what you truly want. In the case of a Pinz, I would like to make a side entrance, but unless I stretch the shelter, that takes up too much room, so I am limited to rear access.

Soon enough I'll take up the challenge and start that thread.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Ouch.

Since I guess no-one has ever came up with a good idea before testing it for years before hand, I should just shut up. Look at the heading of the thread...

My camper IDEAS, THOUGHTS, and PLANS

I never claimed to be an expert.
 

dzzz

liquor, joking about oneself, and sarcasm can be dangerous combination


"A computer lets you make more mistakes faster than any invention in human history - with the possible exceptions of 4x4's, handguns and tequila. "
 

Randwolfe

New member
I honestly believe your comments to be inappropriate. This discussion is a good brainstorming of possible solutions and issues, and does not represent itself to be a solution to all problems, and is not offering itself as a how to for the poor schmuck.

All advances start with abstract thought, trial and error. Even customised aircraft interiors are an iterative process, often starting in an office following a similar process as we see here.

Instead of maligning the thread, offer your experience, so that we may all benefit.
 

Randwolfe

New member
Impressive truck...looks good, however, I do not see the humour in these posts...sorry. Oh well, enough about that.
 
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