New build - 1991 BornFree ford class B 7.3 diesel 4x4

bugwhacker

Observer
I love the junkyard, I actually go there at least once a week just to browse. One of these days I am going to grab a d60 front end and try my hand at making a radius arm suspension for it using weld on wedges. The bronco guys do it all the time so they have it rather sorted out.
 
Last edited:

bugwhacker

Observer
Wheel hub patterns? 8x6/2". 8x170mm?

Swapping from 3:55 will require replacing diff. or a spacer behind the ring gear.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

8 x 6.5" like all E-series vans. They never changed patterns when the trucks did.

Since it is a d60 the carrier break is 4.10 and down.

Now for the front I do need a new carrier as my d44 has 4.10 gears and the carrier break is at 3.73

I will need to get a set of 3.55 gears and a 3.73 and down carrier for the front to match the rears gearing. Maybe a set of e-lockers for front and rear.
 
Last edited:

bugwhacker

Observer
I like cassette toilets because you can empty them in a normal toilet easily or a dump tank if there is one. Yes they don't hold as much and you have to empty them more often but I only use my john in my other motor-home as a last resort in a rainstorm or something.
I think the Thetford C403L will work well for me. It can be hooked up to the camper water supply so you don't have to fill the flush tank manually but you still can if you want to.

The way I am placing it I will service the cassette by opening up the main door and sliding it out rather than through the side of the van.

c403l thetford.jpg

I am placing a shower pan under it and out in front of it recessed into the floor then have a teak slatted platform to make the floor flat again with the rest of the van, A recessed curtain track inside the pan with a matching track on the ceiling for water control and privacy while using the john.
 

Mwilliamshs

Explorer
I agree with the passenger side storage and haven't been able to get the DIY studio to do that either LOL
.
My intended floor plan is similar too. Kinda like a EB50/51 but with the kitchen and cabinets on the other side and I'd like a bed about 54" x 72" (want to use normal "full" size sheets, smaller than queen, bigger than twin). If the girl gets very involved I'm sure it'll end up 60x80 (queen) but I'd rather have space we'll use than space we won't. (wink)
.
I have a motorized tri-fold couch/bed from a conversion van but similar to this futon, that I plan to customize by making new platforms for it so they're 54 wide and add up to ~72 long but not just 3 pieces of 24". Probably 15" seat, 30" back and a 30" or so flipper. The flipper will really just be whatever fits well behind the back and has room to unfold, etc. I'm more into a comfortable bed than seat too so it'll all be flat, no contours like a Westfalia bench.

Is your plan a 2 or 3 piece bed, or something else entirely?
 
Last edited:

bugwhacker

Observer
Appliances

Refrigerator = EdgeStar 80 Quart 12 Volt DC Portable Fridge/Freezer - These units work really well. I have been using them for a couple of years already off of solar on my lake property. I purchased a new one off of a scratch and dent site for $300 shipped to the house, you have to check back often as sometimes they don't have them and the price varies wildly but always cheaper then retail. I paid $300, first one didn't work so they sent me another one and told me to keep them both. One of these days I will take a good look at it and find out why it didn't work. These are chest type refrigerators that take some getting used to but I have found that by screwing a cutting board to the top then mounting it level with your counter it makes a nice work surface.

edgestar 80.jpg

3 or 4 burner stove/oven combo - propane. - Not sold on a brand yet but 21" x 21" so the oven is a reasonable size.

Microwave running off of ac through shore power or off the inverter. - smallest basic manual model I can find( twist mechanical timer, no lights, wind up turn table, small wattage) = Westinghouse 0.6 cu ft Microwave, WCM660B $60, I will disable the lights, turntable and limit the output power to 500 watts.

microwave.jpg

Inductive hot plate for when there is shore power. - these things just get better and cheaper every day.

Diesel powered hot water heater for space heating and hot water tank (tank will have electric element also for when there is shore power.) preheating. Will use the aux heater core on dc blower for air circulation. -

Instantaneous propane water heater for showering and dish washing. Will only heat water when the hot water tank is depleted of hot water if either the motor has been running or the diesel heater.
 
Last edited:

bugwhacker

Observer
I agree with the passenger side storage and haven't been able to get the DIY studio to do that either LOL
.
My intended floor plan is similar too. Kinda like a EB50/51 but with the kitchen and cabinets on the other side and I'd like a bed about 54" x 72" (want to use normal "full" size sheets, smaller than queen, bigger than twin). If the girl gets very involved I'm sure it'll end up 60x80 (queen) but I'd rather have space we'll use than space we won't. (wink)
.
I have a motorized tri-fold couch/bed from a conversion van but similar to this futon, that I plan to customize by making new platforms for it so they're 54 wide and add up to ~72 long but not just 3 pieces of 24". Probably 15" seat, 30" back and a 30" or so flipper. The flipper will really just be whatever fits well behind the back and has room to unfold, etc. I'm more into a comfortable bed than seat too so it'll all be flat, no contours like a Westfalia bench.

Is your plan a 2 or 3 piece bed, or something else entirely?

I also have a powered tri-fold couch that I am going to modify to be the size I want but I am going to pay special attention to making it a comfy bed. Instead of having it on the factory legs I am going to mount it on a steel frame to allow storage box underneath from the back of the van through a compartment door ( no rear doors on this van!). If I need an extra flipper so the back wont get too high I will put it on the front hanging down, my plan is to make the back really tall though. I will mock it up and see how it affects the rear window visibility.
 
Last edited:

Mwilliamshs

Explorer
yeah rearward visibility is a concern for me too. mine's on a steel frame but I'll probably narrow it. Bed's full width right now, the cushions clear the inside walls by an inch or so on each side. My reason for not having a hang-down flipper is it'll likely get dirty, both from being close to the floor and from your heels being against it when seated and that it would block under-couch storage access from the front. I still have rear doors of course and think I'll go with a big drawer under the couch, that slides open front or rear, and a lift-up bottom cushion, and probably a drop-door on both sides like a tailgate for the drawer. I know that sounds complicated but I'd rather put a little more time into construction and a little more $ into hardware the first time than have to redo something that just didn't work out in the real world or try to live with something that could be more convenient "if only"
 

bugwhacker

Observer
7.3 RV cam grind, also known as the "Logger" cam

I went to the junkyard today and spent a few hours tearing down a 7.3 IDI motor to pull the cam. I am sending this cam out to get reground to move my torque band down about 300 rpm and it frees up a bit of HP also. The regrind costs $330 plus shipping your core in. This Cam grind should allow me to not have to downshift so often while trying to stay at max torque for best fuel mileage. This cam also works really well with a turbo setup if I ever decide to drop 2k on one of those. The more I think about how much a turbo kit cost for a van I think more and more about what it would take to put a truck 7.3 IDI turbo kit in - Body lift for sure and mod the doghouse at least. I am planning a 3" body lift anyway. I Might pick up a full turbo kit from the junkyard for $150 and try it out.
 

bugwhacker

Observer
How to make a low powered microwave.

CAUTION!!! - Microwaves contain lethal voltages (up to 2500 volts)

even when disconnected.

They can kill you if you don't know how to properly work on them.

Additionally operating microwaves with the covers removed

can result in personal injury including burns and blindness.

Do not attempt this unless you know exactly what you are doing,

you have been warned.




There are many lower powered microwaves out there on the market and they will work fine for your off grid use if you have unlimited battery capacity, large inverter and plenty of solar to keep it charged.

With all that being said your typical camper van has basically none of those things all at the same time because of space. This fact is well known with the camper van community over in Europe and they have come up with a solution of low powered microwaves to help. They do this by converting the lowest powered microwave they can from a 600-700 watt model down to a 500 watt model. I would just buy a 500 watt microwave but I can't find any for sale new (very few people want a slow microwave that can just barely pop popcorn.).

Why not go lower you might ask? well the answer is pretty simple - you can't pop popcorn below 500 watts and who doesn't like a nice batch of popcorn from time to time.

That all sounds great that they have them over there for sale on Ebay even but they use 220 volt and so they are rather useless for us that use 120 volt.

I decided to go ahead and make myself a low powered microwave that runs on 120 Volt. Being an electrician and having repaired many microwaves I know that most microwaves up to 1000 watts use the same magnetron, the Galanz M24FA-410A. It is rated for 500 - 1000 watts. I looked for a cheap manual timer microwave with no turntable, no light, soft start unit with the smallest wattage and case that I could find. I didn't have any luck finding any here in the US. The soft start feature that is in most larger microwaves just isn't in the cheap small wattage units found here. I did find a few manual timer models in small wattages and chose the Westinghouse model #WCM660B . It is advertised as a 600 watt 0.6 cu foot microwave that uses 800 input watts @ around $60. These figures are not accurate, it is closer to a 700 watt microwave that uses 1150 watts and almost 1300 during start-up. I also bought another microwave to see if it had a soft start circuit in it - The Proctor Silex Model # PS-P60B17L-D5 on sale for $50. It is exactly the same electrically inside as the better built Westinghouse unit.

Microwaves use a capacitor in a voltage doubler circuit to cheaply get enough voltage to make their magnetrons emit microwaves for us to make popcorn with, they could use a bigger transformer but then you would have a heavier more expensive way of getting the voltage it needs plus every different power level microwave would need a different transformer. As I stated earlier the same magnetron is used for many different power level microwaves. How do they do this? a Different capacitor is all. Everything else in a 500 - 1000 watt microwave is the same.

The low powered conversion.

1.) Disconnect light. -20 watts running, -30 watts inrush
2.) Disconnect turntable. -30 watts , -100 watts inrush
3.) Change wattage of microwave by changing capacitor from 0.70 Micro Farad to 0.65 Micro Farad. -280 watts running, no real change in inrush.

Stock Microwave = 1150 watts running, 1210 watts during start-up.
Converted Microwave = 820 watts running, 860 watts during start-up.

This saves you 330 watts while running and 350 watts of inrush. This means you can use a much smaller battery bank and inverter to power your popcorn maker. The trade-off is that it will take longer to do everything and in the end you will use almost the same amount of total power to boil a cup of water but you will do it at a much lower amp draw and without so much inrush - your batteries will be happier.

20150314_094006.jpg

20150326_205643.jpg

20150326_205653.jpg

20150326_205658.jpg

20150404_175626.jpg



Make sure you unplug the microwave, then discharge the capacitor before touching anything inside the microwave. Failure to do so will result in injury or death. Make sure when you change the capacitor that you insulate the High Voltage lead for 2500 volts like the original lead.

The 0.65 Micro Farad capacitor can be purchased from http://www.thriftyapplianceparts.com/5303269585-frigidaire-microwave-capacitor-replacement/ for about $15.50 + $5.50 shipping.

You could also build yourself a 425 watt microwave but I find that they make lousy popcorn (really... lots of unpoped kernels). You can find the 0.60 microfarad capacitor here - Ebay
 
Last edited:

philos

Explorer
If I was planning on having a microwave, I'd be all over that. I bet there's a cottage business in converting them for folks in the states.
Great write up in any case!


Sent via flux capacitor
 

mp_tx

Observer
Great write up on the microwave. I plan on making one.

Now you have me wondering about the small 5k window AC unit I installed in my ambo, and if it a "soft start" version. You might be getting a PM from me to ask some questions.....
 

bugwhacker

Observer
Great write up on the microwave. I plan on making one.

Now you have me wondering about the small 5k window AC unit I installed in my ambo, and if it a "soft start" version. You might be getting a PM from me to ask some questions.....

Caution - more capacitors and lethal voltages

I plan on having a small window unit instead of a conventional RV AC unit myself so I have been giving this subject some thought for myself. I also have a lot of experience with AC systems and in fact hold a universal refrigerant license so I think I can be of some help in setting up an easy starting window unit.

First things first, start with a unit that has no electronic/led controls - just knobs/switches. No reason to waste power for blinky lights. LG Electronics Model # LW5015E

Next comes an on-delay timer in the compressor-on circuit, we want to delay the start of the compressor by 10 seconds when we first start the unit so that the inrush from the circulating fan has been past before starting the compressor and to allow the "Hard-Start" relay to pre-charge. ICM203

After that install a super large "Hard Start" relay on the compressor capacitor so that the start of the compressor is absorbed by "Hard Start" relay instead of having to hit the incoming line. Supco SPP6

Camping with an AC unit is a luxury that I really enjoy when it is hot and sweaty so I always try to find at least enough power to run during the evenings when going to sleep. Sometimes this is at the end of a 100 ft long cord and making sure you don't trip your hosts outlet is really important because people won't let you plug in again if you shut down their sleeping fan.

This unit set up like this should run at about 4.1 amps running on high cool/ high fan, slow down the fan and set the cooling mode to low and it will be even lower. Keep your filters clean and your cords as short as possible with the largest gauge to help with voltage drop. I plan to have a 220 volt ==> 110 volt transformer mounted in my van so I can use the mostly 220 volt power found down in SA.
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
186,067
Messages
2,881,642
Members
225,825
Latest member
JCCB1998
Top