New Rover...

[Alaska Mike]

If you check Mercedesrover's website, he gives a brief description of the work needed to modify the axle housing and stub shafts. If you can find the right Toyota 3rd member, it would be a great mod to the stock axle.

However, I thing the housing of the Salisbury is stronger overall, and parts availability is certainly better (no custom parts). It's also bolt-on simple.

 

[01001010]

However, I thing the housing of the Salisbury is stronger overall, and parts availability is certainly better (no custom parts). It's also bolt-on simple.

Another Great point!

 

[01001010]

Thank you for the abundance of information guys!!!

 

[DCH109]

DCH!

THank you for the links!!! Very helpful!!!

EDIT: No, still no galvanizer wanting to take my frame

That feeling i know. Had the same problem when i called a few places in Maryland an PA. It was worth a try though.


If you local guy does not want to sell his sals. I know a great one that will be up for sale in a 5-7 days.

 

[Alaska Mike]

As for the galvanizer issue- you might call the east coast Rover Rover dealer parts guys and see what contacts they have. In the long run, it may be cheaper just to bite the bullet and buy a new chassis, once you consider the shipping and prep costs.

If the frame is sound, just get it sandblasted and powdercoated. The inside can be treated periodically with Waxoyl or a similar product. It will probably last just as long as galvanizing an existing frame.

I really like the thought you're putting into the build. Keep it up. You've already passed my project in terms of tasks completed.

 

[01001010]

Thank Mike!

The frame is too good to disregard! I've already got a place that'll do the sandblasting, my new neighbor is an expert welder (for the minor repairs) and I hope Galvanizing wont cost too much, so I hope it all balances out.

 

[Mercedesrover]

Galvanizing is remarkable cheap. You'll find a place to do it. When you approach them, don't mention Land Rovers right off. Get friendly with them first and get to know them. Most of these places are very gun-shy about Land Rover owners.

 

[Yorker]

I was quoted 150.00 minimum 36 cents a pound for galvanizing. A lot of galvanizers on the east coast won't touch Land Rover stuff because they have been burned by anal Land Rover owners who get all pissy because the finish isn't just perfect. As a result they've ruined it for the rest of us.

 

[Michael Slade]

I was quoted 150.00 minimum 36 cents a pound for galvanizing. A lot of galvanizers on the east coast won't touch Land Rover stuff because they have been burned by anal Land Rover owners who get all pissy because the finish isn't just perfect. As a result they've ruined it for the rest of us.

Yup. Same was true in Portland. We finally got a very good relationship with them, and dipped probably a half-dozen frames, at least that many bulkheads and related bits.

The secret is to NOT have the parts quenched. ESPECIALLY the bulkheads. If they are quenched then that's when they have the distortion on the thin bits. Frames are not such a big deal.

FWIW, I would NOT recommend powdercoating a frame. The debate is endless, but from what I have seen, if you can't get it galvanized then get it painted really really well with a 30-stage epoxy super-enamel bulletproof paint (not really sure what you'd officially call it).

Powdercoating can turn into a nightmare after a few years. You don't want it.

 

[marc olivares]

Powdercoating can turn into a nightmare after a few years. You don't want it.

Mike speaks the truth, powdercoating should never be used on a frame.

 

[01001010]

Yikes, I didnt mention Powdercoating but I can deinitely imagine that!!

I've been told by others to force them to do it, tell them they arent liable for warping, and have them let the frame Air Dry.

 

[Yorker]

One of our local galvanizers does galvanizing AND powdercoating. They got into the business because NYS-DOT uses brown guard rails etc in the Adirondacks, Caatskills and other NYS parks. Originally they tried that rusted steel stuff but it was a failure because it failed at the ground where it was in contact with moisture and de-icers (duh). So now we(taxpayers) pay to have the guard rails galvanized then powder coated brown to make them look more rustic...:yikes:

 

[Alaska Mike]

Powder coating's effectivenss varies by the application, environment, and intended use. Epoxy is certainly easier to touch up and apply initially.

The cleaner you can make the frame, inside and out, the more likely they are to galvanize it for you. With the environmental regulations those guys have to deal with, the less they have to clean their tanks the better. A rusty/drity old frame is not going to make them happy.

I am curious how you are going to deal with the rust inside the frame, before you galvanize.

 

[Michael Slade]

I am curious how you are going to deal with the rust inside the frame, before you galvanize.

We found a place in Portland that could dip the parts in a soda-ash-mercuric-acid gnarly liquid-y mixture of secret fairy powder, angel tears and unicorn blood. It stripped the frame of any rust.

Make sure you have some 'drain holes' drilled at the end of the frame so that the galvanizing can drip out.

No seriously, having the frame stripped of rust is the way to go B-4 U galvanize.

 

[Yorker]

A friend of mine works for a galvanizer and when I asked him he said they dip rusty stuff in an acid bath or something like Slade mentioned which chemically removes the rust before they galvanize it.