elcoyote
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Whulp, it’s been a few days and we’ve put some kms under our belts. We decided to go around the East Cape of the Northern Island so that we could see sunrise from the eastern most point on land (this is defined by the international date line). This is a drive often not taken by travelers as it takes you away from most large centers of population and the road is very twisty & narrow. Heck, our driveway is wider than most roads that the Kiwis call Highways! (we’re talking about both lanes here).
We departed our friends at the blueberry winery and headed towards Rotorua. All we had read about Rotorura was that it was beautiful and touristy…the town smells like rotten eggs because of the famous thermal springs…we blazed on through. We followed a necklace of lakes leaving Rotorua on Hwy 5 stopping at Lake Rotoma for a picnic lunch. The road so far has been through rolling hills, lots of conifers & giant ferns separated by grazing land full of sheep & cows. Interesting tidbit: NZ greenhouse gas emissions generated by humans is less than that generated by their animal population.
After lunch, we picked up Hwy 30 on the way to Whakatane (“Wh” is pronounced “F” in NZ) in search of an internet connection and a state information center. The town was quaint, bustling & hip like a miniature Laguna Beach. We failed at the internet connection but scored on some local music. Stopping into the local record shop, we asked the young lady behind the counter for an original NZ music recommendation and she turned us on to a band called The Feelers. Fine multi style rock to keep us company on the road.
We took Hwy 30 to Hwy 2. It was getting on in the day and we hung a sharp left at a small sign on the road towards the Ohiwa Family Holiday Park. NZ $23.40 got us a super fine campsite on the perfectly manicured lawn, just behind the dunes on the beach. Our van came with a discount card for this chain of private parks. We’ve got to tell you that this is the most immaculate campground we have ever seen. The bathrooms were nicer than some of the motels we’ve stayed in stateside: tile showers, communal kitchen, laundry facilities and extensive recycling program. We walked the beach and only saw 4 people; a couple of fellows fishing, and a couple of people walking their dogs. One of the fisherman drove his Nissan crew cab right down the spit…a legal activity in NZ. While watching a perfect sunset at 5:30 PM local time we enjoyed happy hour with some more of NZ fine One Tree Vineyard Sauvingnon Blanc and more yummy cheeses: creamy triple cream with spices and a blue. Soon it was time for bed.
Next day we started off early on Hwy 35 to round the cape with Gisborne being our target destination. The road hugs the rugged coast with dramatic views. The road seems to cross a river every 15-20 kms. I spy for fish The road rises and falls steeply with sharp curves, lots of one lane bridges and tons of road repair work where the road has fallen away into the sea. The day is clear but the wind is blowing 30 knots + and our Ford van is like a windsurfers sail, keeping between the narrow lines takes all of my attention. The driving is exhausting and we are far from Gisborne at 4 PM, the time we should be making camp. The closest place we can find that has a place to camp we are told is Anaura Bay. It’s 14 kms off the hwy on a narrow dead end road. What a fantastic place it is indeed! A large fenced off grassy area that is part of the Department of Conservation. It’s fenced to keep the free range cattle & sheep out. We walk the deserted beach; only one other couple is camped at the site in a tent. Serendipity!
We awake the next morning to the sound of raindrops and a rainbow right out our window. We chow down breakfast and get wheels up before the rain turns our grassy camp into a van swallowing muddy bog.
We head towards Gisborne, one of New Zealands prime wine making areas. We stop in the Gisborne town center to track down the information center but we can’t seem to find it. We had thought that Gisborne would be a bit more sophisticated being part of the wine country but we found main street to be rather plain. Maybe we missed something? On the road leaving Gisborne, we take time to stop at the Millton Winery and sample their full bodied oak aged Chardonnay and a delightful Chenin Blanc. A lovely small winery with a Tuscan style garden planted with lavender. Their tasting room is really an aging room, filled with barrels and smell of fermenting grapes. We’re in heaven!
We take leave of the winery and continue the road southward towards Napier. Driving in NZ is to experience valleys, steep twisty climbs, forests in a very condensed fashion for all can occur within just a few kms. Look to the left and see the waves breaking on the beach, look to the right and see a river spilling out of the mountains through a field of corn next to a lush pasture with sheep grazing. Our next climb up into the hills brings us to Morere Springs where we decided to stop and soak. The springs are set in almost a sub tropical forest with a stream running through it, large ferns, palms and the air is filled with bird calls. We hire a 41°C private pool for ½ hour for NZ$ 16. Upon entering the private cabin, we are confronted with a warning sign about the possibility of contracting amoebic meningitis if we submerge our heads… talk about putting a cloud over a happy moment! We get in the tub nonetheless and enjoy…and live to write about it.
The road became unbelievably narrower as we approached Napier: the center of the Hawkes Bay wine region. Exhausted, we find the closest motor park in Napier after dark and call it a night.
We departed our friends at the blueberry winery and headed towards Rotorua. All we had read about Rotorura was that it was beautiful and touristy…the town smells like rotten eggs because of the famous thermal springs…we blazed on through. We followed a necklace of lakes leaving Rotorua on Hwy 5 stopping at Lake Rotoma for a picnic lunch. The road so far has been through rolling hills, lots of conifers & giant ferns separated by grazing land full of sheep & cows. Interesting tidbit: NZ greenhouse gas emissions generated by humans is less than that generated by their animal population.
After lunch, we picked up Hwy 30 on the way to Whakatane (“Wh” is pronounced “F” in NZ) in search of an internet connection and a state information center. The town was quaint, bustling & hip like a miniature Laguna Beach. We failed at the internet connection but scored on some local music. Stopping into the local record shop, we asked the young lady behind the counter for an original NZ music recommendation and she turned us on to a band called The Feelers. Fine multi style rock to keep us company on the road.
We took Hwy 30 to Hwy 2. It was getting on in the day and we hung a sharp left at a small sign on the road towards the Ohiwa Family Holiday Park. NZ $23.40 got us a super fine campsite on the perfectly manicured lawn, just behind the dunes on the beach. Our van came with a discount card for this chain of private parks. We’ve got to tell you that this is the most immaculate campground we have ever seen. The bathrooms were nicer than some of the motels we’ve stayed in stateside: tile showers, communal kitchen, laundry facilities and extensive recycling program. We walked the beach and only saw 4 people; a couple of fellows fishing, and a couple of people walking their dogs. One of the fisherman drove his Nissan crew cab right down the spit…a legal activity in NZ. While watching a perfect sunset at 5:30 PM local time we enjoyed happy hour with some more of NZ fine One Tree Vineyard Sauvingnon Blanc and more yummy cheeses: creamy triple cream with spices and a blue. Soon it was time for bed.
Next day we started off early on Hwy 35 to round the cape with Gisborne being our target destination. The road hugs the rugged coast with dramatic views. The road seems to cross a river every 15-20 kms. I spy for fish The road rises and falls steeply with sharp curves, lots of one lane bridges and tons of road repair work where the road has fallen away into the sea. The day is clear but the wind is blowing 30 knots + and our Ford van is like a windsurfers sail, keeping between the narrow lines takes all of my attention. The driving is exhausting and we are far from Gisborne at 4 PM, the time we should be making camp. The closest place we can find that has a place to camp we are told is Anaura Bay. It’s 14 kms off the hwy on a narrow dead end road. What a fantastic place it is indeed! A large fenced off grassy area that is part of the Department of Conservation. It’s fenced to keep the free range cattle & sheep out. We walk the deserted beach; only one other couple is camped at the site in a tent. Serendipity!
We awake the next morning to the sound of raindrops and a rainbow right out our window. We chow down breakfast and get wheels up before the rain turns our grassy camp into a van swallowing muddy bog.
We head towards Gisborne, one of New Zealands prime wine making areas. We stop in the Gisborne town center to track down the information center but we can’t seem to find it. We had thought that Gisborne would be a bit more sophisticated being part of the wine country but we found main street to be rather plain. Maybe we missed something? On the road leaving Gisborne, we take time to stop at the Millton Winery and sample their full bodied oak aged Chardonnay and a delightful Chenin Blanc. A lovely small winery with a Tuscan style garden planted with lavender. Their tasting room is really an aging room, filled with barrels and smell of fermenting grapes. We’re in heaven!
We take leave of the winery and continue the road southward towards Napier. Driving in NZ is to experience valleys, steep twisty climbs, forests in a very condensed fashion for all can occur within just a few kms. Look to the left and see the waves breaking on the beach, look to the right and see a river spilling out of the mountains through a field of corn next to a lush pasture with sheep grazing. Our next climb up into the hills brings us to Morere Springs where we decided to stop and soak. The springs are set in almost a sub tropical forest with a stream running through it, large ferns, palms and the air is filled with bird calls. We hire a 41°C private pool for ½ hour for NZ$ 16. Upon entering the private cabin, we are confronted with a warning sign about the possibility of contracting amoebic meningitis if we submerge our heads… talk about putting a cloud over a happy moment! We get in the tub nonetheless and enjoy…and live to write about it.
The road became unbelievably narrower as we approached Napier: the center of the Hawkes Bay wine region. Exhausted, we find the closest motor park in Napier after dark and call it a night.
