David Harris
Expedition Leader
Did you install longer studs to use those?
Overland Journal: Discovery I, 5-speed
- Thread starter Scott Brady
- Start date
Did you install longer studs to use those?
Rovertrader
Supporting Sponsor
No, never had issues, and run them on Discos and Defenders for many years...
zimm
Expedition Leader
you want at least 7 turns. you can tighten to spec with fewer, but youre placing too much tension on the no. 1 thread and asking for sheer.
Scott Brady
Founder
I found a new in box ladder from Rovers Norths. Christmas in October! Actually, I have had the ladder for a while, and it was just resting on the rear door. The install isn't difficult, but you do need a metric rivet nut tool. Good excuse to buy one. Working on my trucks is one of the hobbies I enjoy most. Nothing like getting away from the glowing screens and busting some knuckles.
Ooooh, doesn't the LR Genuine just get you all week in the knees (grin)
The kit is pretty complete, including an anti-vibration pad that also serves to protect the paint.
Gotta get a metric rivet nut tool. This one works from 4mm to 10mm. Pretty sweet and Amazon Prime!!!
Nothing like drilling sheet metal. Measure thrice!
Better not remove the sticker! I also applied silicon to the threads and around the rivet nut to help reduce water ingress into the tailgate.
Would you look at that
Now I have a ladder to access a roof rack that I never put anything on.
Oh, and in typical Land Rover fashion, the lower left rivet nut has an interference issue with the rear door handle mechanism. When I drilled through, it knocked the pin off the latch and resulted in twice the time of installing the ladder to fix the rear door. LOL! Do yourself a favor and put a depth stop on the drill bit. about 2-3mm will do it.
Dog guard is next!
Ooooh, doesn't the LR Genuine just get you all week in the knees (grin)
The kit is pretty complete, including an anti-vibration pad that also serves to protect the paint.
Gotta get a metric rivet nut tool. This one works from 4mm to 10mm. Pretty sweet and Amazon Prime!!!
Nothing like drilling sheet metal. Measure thrice!
Better not remove the sticker! I also applied silicon to the threads and around the rivet nut to help reduce water ingress into the tailgate.
Would you look at that
Now I have a ladder to access a roof rack that I never put anything on. Oh, and in typical Land Rover fashion, the lower left rivet nut has an interference issue with the rear door handle mechanism. When I drilled through, it knocked the pin off the latch and resulted in twice the time of installing the ladder to fix the rear door. LOL! Do yourself a favor and put a depth stop on the drill bit. about 2-3mm will do it.
Dog guard is next!
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Scott Brady
Founder
On to the dog guard. Always wanted one, primarily for my ginormous furry child.
Otherwise, they are good to have for loading and lashing considerations, keeping the heavy stuff aft of the guard should the lashing fail (lashing is my next project).
First step was to pop a few trim retainers. Using the right tool makes all the difference.
Another measure five times situation. This time, I used a drill stop to keep from punching out the exterior sheet metal.
The dog guard is super simple to install and remove, the structure relying on these metal uprights. There are plastic inserts that likely help with rattles. So far, it is quiet.
The uprights installed. Again, the installation relies on the rivet nut, this one an 8 and installed with my schmancy new tool
The dog guard is pretty sweet and will stay in the truck. The Disco is too short to sleep in (for me), so it works perfect as a security and load barrier.
While I was at it, I found my original cargo cover and installed that, along with the side bins and a factory load mat. I found a few NOS LR genuine rear load mats and bought them up.
In the first photo, the cargo cover is retracted and tucks nicely into the load barrier.
Here you can see the cargo cover deployed. It does a nice job of keeping interesting things out of sight. . .
Fun working on the Disco again! Next is suspension and the front control arms and driveshaft shenanigans. Then I need to plan a trip. Thinking of running the length of the Arizona Traverse with the Disco- anyone in?
Otherwise, they are good to have for loading and lashing considerations, keeping the heavy stuff aft of the guard should the lashing fail (lashing is my next project).
First step was to pop a few trim retainers. Using the right tool makes all the difference.
Another measure five times situation. This time, I used a drill stop to keep from punching out the exterior sheet metal.
The dog guard is super simple to install and remove, the structure relying on these metal uprights. There are plastic inserts that likely help with rattles. So far, it is quiet.
The uprights installed. Again, the installation relies on the rivet nut, this one an 8 and installed with my schmancy new tool
The dog guard is pretty sweet and will stay in the truck. The Disco is too short to sleep in (for me), so it works perfect as a security and load barrier.
While I was at it, I found my original cargo cover and installed that, along with the side bins and a factory load mat. I found a few NOS LR genuine rear load mats and bought them up.
In the first photo, the cargo cover is retracted and tucks nicely into the load barrier.
Here you can see the cargo cover deployed. It does a nice job of keeping interesting things out of sight. . .
Fun working on the Disco again! Next is suspension and the front control arms and driveshaft shenanigans. Then I need to plan a trip. Thinking of running the length of the Arizona Traverse with the Disco- anyone in?
Dang wish I lived closer- That's some ominous cargo you have tucked in there!
D
D
NW40
Explorer
Thanks for the heads up on the interference issue. Getting ready to do the ladder install on mine.
In your opinion, is the cargo barrier stout enough to keep cargo from coming forward in an accident? I've been eyeing the genuine LR barrier for my truck, but without upper mounting points, and not having inspected one in person, I've had some doubts regarding its effectiveness. I'd love to install a Milford, but those are several times the cost. Would love to get your opinion now that you have it installed.
Your Disco is looking great, Scott! Thanks for keeping us posted with all the pics.
Scott Brady
Founder
I would not classify it as a full blown load barrier, but it would certainly withstand most loads in an accident or rollover. I would view it as a safety barrier to coincide with proper lashing.
Scott Brady
Founder
For lashing, I am using factory Discovery II rings, installed with the mounting point under the rear rub rail and then in two more locations at the wheel well, near the rear seats. The tie down loop's mounting base will tuck under the carpet and rub rail, exposing only the ring. There are other options out there, but I like the idea of a factory part. I will use the larger rivet nuts to secure the rings to the load floor.
They are about $40 for a set of four at Expedition Exchange. http://www.expeditionexchange.com/cart/product.php?productid=19105&cat=288&page=1
photo: EE
My plan is to use a combination of Pelican cases and Enduristan dry bags for gear. Then I can move all of the kit from truck to truck, and not have a permanent load.
They are about $40 for a set of four at Expedition Exchange. http://www.expeditionexchange.com/cart/product.php?productid=19105&cat=288&page=1
photo: EE
My plan is to use a combination of Pelican cases and Enduristan dry bags for gear. Then I can move all of the kit from truck to truck, and not have a permanent load.
toddz69
Explorer
David Harris
Expedition Leader
Maybe, depends on when you're going. . .
KlausVanWinkle
Explorer
I'm in. I'll bring our 2 year old furry child to keep yours occupied.
454
Exploder
I'm interested. It would have to be a fly-and-ride, though.