OVRLND CAMPERS ONLY : Post your OVRLND Camper build here or a link to your build thread to inspire others!

Motafinga

Adventurer
I have a camper on order for a first gen Tacoma and am super excited! I'm wondering if anyone here has experience with the white painted option. The truck is already white and if the paint is reasonably durable with bushwhacking tighter trails I'm thinking of going that route. Trying to make every dollar count and white is no extra cost.
 

jvuk1991

New member
We have the +3" cabover on our F150 and love it. It was one of the main selling points for us as we wanted to keep our in-bed drawer system. I'm 6'2" and have a couple of inches above my head inside when standing on our drawers (they are 11" tall). I don't think it looks weird from the side, maybe a bit tall looking in the back. Taller half barn doors may help with that. Here are a few photos so you can get a sense of the look for yourself.View attachment 812415View attachment 812416View attachment 812411View attachment 812412View attachment 812413View attachment 812414
I love the wall panels! What material did you use?
 

dirtnsmores

Member
I asked this question over in the Facebook group for this camper. Figure. I'd drop it here too...

Has anyone shortened the bed length or requested it? Or is it possible to extend the bed out halfway instead of fully (maybe modify it DIY)? We aren't tall and don't need the full 80". Rather have the extra standing space below. Just curious mostly since I don't have the camper yet and don't know how the slide works.

Mine will be going on the first gen double cab Tundra. I will often have my two kids along, at least one or possibly two sleeping below. I'd like to maximize the standing space below the bed. I am 5'9, and my wife is shorter, so I'm thinking about having the 80-in length of the bed cut down a bit. Did anyone else do this ? Either yourself or have Jay and Maggie get it done?
 

dstefan

Well-known member
Talk to Jay or Maggie. If they haven't changed the composite design, seems like it would be simple for them to cut it shorter. What I don’t know is if they get it cut to size or not from their vendor.

The way my 3 year old one is structured there's an aluminum channel cap on the pull out edge which I assume is epoxied or otherwise adhered to the composite and it has rivnuts that the wooden lip you pull on is attached to. I have taken the lip off to trim the corners, it’s super simple.

If you were to cut it yourself, I think you’d have to be prepared to make a clean cut in the honeycomb composite, replace the alu C channel with new one, install Rivnuts, and adhere back to the composite. Better to have them do it.
 

dirtnsmores

Member
Talk to Jay or Maggie. If they haven't changed the composite design, seems like it would be simple for them to cut it shorter. What I don’t know is if they get it cut to size or not from their vendor.

The way my 3 year old one is structured there's an aluminum channel cap on the pull out edge which I assume is epoxied or otherwise adhered to the composite and it has rivnuts that the wooden lip you pull on is attached to. I have taken the lip off to trim the corners, it’s super simple.

If you were to cut it yourself, I think you’d have to be prepared to make a clean cut in the honeycomb composite, replace the alu C channel with new one, install Rivnuts, and adhere back to the composite. Better to have them do it.

Wow it's a little more involved than I thought. Thanks for that info. So... Is this a piece that's removable if let's say down the road I need you sell it and the new owner is tall and wants the full 80" bed? I'm hoping we can just hit up the company and order the right size extension. I suppose that's a question I'll ask Jay/Maggie
 

dirtnsmores

Member
Have any of you seen this battery box?

Seems like a cool easy solution for power. Haven't even begun to think about powering my fan yet. Right now I only have a jackery 300 from previous setup. I'll probably go with some battery powered or rechargeable lights in the camper. Mainly concerned with power for the fridge (low draw) and fan.
 

dstefan

Well-known member
I like that a lot better than all the self contained ones. It’s half the price of the NL DCDC25 box I have, and love the 175 amp output and the general design and set up. I guess the only question would be the quality of the DCDC charger and Solar controller, but looks very well made and thought out. Nice that the internal size seems it could accommodate some larger batteries too.
 

Dave in AZ

Active member
Have any of you seen this battery box?

Seems like a cool easy solution for power. Haven't even begun to think about powering my fan yet. Right now I only have a jackery 300 from previous setup. I'll probably go with some battery powered or rechargeable lights in the camper. Mainly concerned with power for the fridge (low draw) and fan.
That is a pretty good one. I couldnt figure out the inverter output, it just gave amps, nice to see what its steady and surge outputs are...
 

ShrimpBoots

New member
What do you folks think about the flat roof, with solar on it, vs just using portable? I see this, but haven't decided yet:
1. Solar on roof, pros-- always there ready to produce. More theft resistant. Cons-- have to park in sun, shaded camp spots likely give little power. Flat roof on ovrlnd results in 50% power at max. Heavy on roof and air drag.
2. Solar portable panels, pros-- not on roof, can park in shade, can place panel in sun, can angle towards sun better for more power. Lighter, no drag, don't have to mess with roof, less complexity. Cons-- have to mess with them to lay out and angle, maybe adjust. Have to store in camper. More stealable when not being watched.

So, what do you all think? Roof or mobile? I have a 330w portable, amd a 130w portable, so I guess I could try just using them... but if folks think roof is way better, I don't mind putting 400 or 600 up there which will fit on mine.

I have a Tacoma OffRoad, which has a 400w inverter plug in pickup bed. There is a standard mod folks do to let it deliver 400w while driving, it comes stock 100w moving and 400w in park. So I will plug my power station into that and get 400w ac charging.

Does anyone with a popup ever leave one side down, to angle panels, like a wedge lets you do? Say park facing south, then drop the cab overhang side down once you're awake in morning?
I mounted a 200w panel to the Rhino Tracks using some 80/20 pieces and it's worked great for my needs. I have an older EcoFlow River Pro that I run everything off of. Generally we are driving around when camping and the 200w is enough to top me off each day. Only time I really struggled was running the Starlink on cloudy days. It certainly added some weight to the roof when lifting the rear, but I don't plan on mounting anything else up there. I thought about using one of the angle bracket kits to mount it so I could kick it up, but decided that was probably too much of a pain.

As for air drag, I think a solar panel isn't the biggest concern considering the design of the camper. I joke that the panel acts like a spoiler mounted on my roof.
 

sea_weathered

New member
I run the HS2000 in my 6ft bed midsized truck, it can increase air temp by about 60°F running constantly, the air heats up fairly quickly(maybe 20-30 min to 55-60°F when its about 20°F out), but the thermal mass of all the cold gear take all night in cold temps and the aluminum of the camper and steel of the pickup bed never really heat up. I have the floor, ceiling, walls, and roof insulated, but haven't insulated the tent or the sides of my pickup bed or the aluminum framing. I've been happy with it down to single digits, when propane fuel itself starts to have issues. Still get occasional condensation on the exposed aluminum of the interior and tent, but it is considerably less and I can crack the roof vent and a tent window to get some air flow without getting cold. I've considered just heating the tent portion at night by putting up a curtain at the end of the bed, along with insulated tent walls I think I'd use 1/4 the fuel.

I think I'd get an HS2800 for a full sized truck if I wasn't FULLY insulated or I wanted to camp in 10-20°F temps.
Digging up an old comment here. I'm curious how much propane you burn overnight running your Propex in those temps? I'm currently in the planning stages of building out a camper that hasn't even been built yet, and I'm deep in the weeds of finding the best heat source
 

sea_weathered

New member
Its a Truma Vario. The fat hose is air intake from outside and the exhaust is a smaller hose inside of that. I looked hard at Propex and would have gone with one, but couldn’t make the placement work out with the way the intake and exhaust hoses have to be on those.

i’ve only used it a bit on two trips, this spring, but I like it a lot. It’s real effective and it’s quiet, and it helps remove condensation from the inside.
Same same, digging up old comments. How much propane does the Vario consume trying to keep you warm overnight? are you happy with its reliability?
 

dirtnsmores

Member
That is a pretty good one. I couldnt figure out the inverter output, it just gave amps, nice to see what its steady and surge outputs are...
ok I may end up going this route down the road. For now I have a jackery 300 that will have to suffice when I finally pick up my camper in a few months.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
186,111
Messages
2,882,128
Members
225,874
Latest member
Mitch Bears
Top