Project: Doitall Dodge

[Metcalf]

So a few weeks ago on the first trip to moab this year I couldn't get my darn trailer out of the 4 feet of snow here in Durango so I was forced to investigate other options.....

My girl even snapped some video....I like the noise....last 30 seconds is the best

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wY-gZqyj1zo

 

[flexiheep]

Thanks Dale, your steering system is what I was going after. Few questions if you have a minute. What was the length of the 2wd pitman arm? I'm wondering if I can find a shorter steering arm. Any ideas on what might make a good pitman arm that would give just a hair more drop. I would love to be able to use a straight drag link. Any idea what taper the dodge TREs are?

I think I need to paint my truck worse than yours!

I will have to get back to you on the arm length, I am in Woomera South Australia right now driving a diesel Yota Hilux for work (had a couple Sundays to explore the outback so far).... I would try to look for something with about 4 inches total drop, maybe a Wrangler or FSJ arm possibly....... Taper is the same on the Dodge TRE as the GM, I just used a standard reamer from one of the 4x4 shops to enlarge the holes. My guess is that the threaded length is the difference between the GM and Dodge TRE.

I would plan to box the frame on your Dodge and sleeve it with the 39s you have, I will find a link to the Build of NACHO over in Col Springs (they guy I got my cab from, and where your doors came from) he did a real nice job with it.

Nacho build
It is a long thread that goes through several levels, I think the steering was around page 20 maybe.
That is also a 2wd borgeson shaft on my truck like your looking at, it really is a bolt on in the 2wd position.

 

[lstzephyr]

Is the borgesen shaft aftermarket or was that a 2wd part? I keep hearing about it but I can't find any info on it. My steering is a bit loose.

I think all of us dodge guys need to paint our trucks.:snorkel:

 

[Metcalf]

Its an aftermarket replacement steering shaft. KLM has the best price I have found. I like the one that keeps the rag joint for vibration isolation, but they make a double joint unit too.

Check your steering box mount.....they like the crack.

 

[stimpy13]

Very nice build. I like the ideal of the kahki.

 

[Metcalf]

I am forbidden from painting any vehicle any color close to tan. Funny campfire story.

 

[DWitcher]

Take a look at the 2nd Gen Dodge pitman arm. It's a factory drop.

 

[flexiheep]

2wd pitman arm length

Brennan,
I just measured, my 2wd pitman arm is 6" center-line to center-line. The high steer arm I have had holes at 5" and 7.5", so I added one at 6" to match the pitman arm.

 

[Metcalf]

Thanks for the measurement. I guess a 76-79 F150 stock power steering pitman arm is suppose to work pretty well too. I wish all this snow would melt so I could get to the junkyard! I welded up the steering bracket and it seems to be holding for now. I'm looking around for a D60 steering arm that has a hole at 6".

 

[Metcalf]

I finally got around to working on the dodge a bit....or rather playing.....

I finally cracked open the injector pump and played with it a bit. I took the AFC apart and rotated the fuel pin after cleaning and marking everything. I did a 45 degree clockwise turn on the fuel pin. From what I could tell about 110-120 degrees from 'stock' clockwise would be the maximum depth on the fuel pin. It wasn't a 1000hp modification but it did make a pretty noticeable difference in power. I also made sure that the pin on the top of the AFC that controls pre-boost fueling was also in a good position to not allow too much fuel off-idle. I didn't mess with the star wheel yet as I only get a puff of dark haze now. It took maybe 15 minutes in work to make the modification, though I spent a good deal of time cleaning and looking at stuff.....

While I was playing with the pump I decided to relocate the throttle linkage to the top hole in the throttle arm. This makes the throttle MUCH more responsive. Personally I also think it helped with how the turbo spools up. I think its because the motor is being fueled a little harder than with the normal long travel system. It sure makes the truck much more fun to drive and a lot more responsive.

A little big ago I also modified the stock air cleaner housing into an open element system. This worked a lot better than the stock air box with my sectioned front fenders. It still uses the stock air filter. I made a little bracket that attaches to the fender with some stainless steel bolts that holds the air filter element with a LARGE hose clamp. It was simple and free. I didn't feel much of a power difference, but I can hear the turbo a little more now. I also think the turbo spools a touch sooner. I'm still running the stock lag-master housing on the turbo AND I live at 7000ft so any little bit helps.

 

[lstzephyr]

Good stuff. I did that to my truck a few months ago as well. Its not earth shattering but makes a good difference. Its cool how quick the power comes in with the new settings eh?

Might want to look for a 366 spring. Its like 15 dollars or something retarded cheap. Supposed to make the truck rev out a bit more. I've got one ready to go in my truck next week.

 

[Metcalf]

The governor spring is on my list, not so much for the extra RPM, but to help with the gradual de-fueling of the motor as it approaches the governor speed.

It is nice to have a little more pep in the truck.

 

[flexiheep]

I like the filter holder, I did mine and just hung a piece of nylon webbing in that area that the filter rests on. I still need to put in my 366 spring, I have had it on the bench for almost 2 years now :Wow1:. I seem to have one of the weak pumps, mine starts to defuel about 2100 rpm, where others get 2500 or more before defuel. I really need to finish working with my pump, the 366 spring, I want to advance the timing, and lower the idle (I screwed in the fuel screw, and it raised the idle to about 900).

I have to say I really like the look of the truck with the michelins and the fender work (calling it trimming seems so inadequate). I wanted to do a little trimming and run the 9.00/16 size for a couple years.

 

[Metcalf]

I hope this summer I can get the body straitened out enough to put some paint on it. It doesn't need to be perfect, but decent and one color would be nice! I think I will be able to get the fender mods covered up pretty good Then people will have a really hard time figuring out what is going on.

I really like the fender mods and michelins too. I am going to be pretty sad when they finally wear out. I will get another year out of them but then they are going to be pretty worn out. I just hit the wear bars on two of them. I need to get a grooving iron and cut the bars out.
I don't know what I will replace them with? I would love to find another set and run them on some 9" wide wheels. These Michelins are getting pretty rare it seems. Its a bummer, they are a GREAT tire for these big heavy trucks. If I can't find another set I will have to go to something more normal. I think I could run 40s, but some 37s might be a better option? I wish they made more 38-39" radial tires that where about 13" wide. I think the 14.5s would be a little too wide?

I hope to build a simple front bumper this week, we will see

 

[flexiheep]

get anywhere on the bumpers?