Project: Doitall Dodge

[Metcalf]

I couldn't even buy the sheet of plate for the top with my discount through work for what I paid for the entire table. It also came with casters but I removed them to get the table rolled over and in the truck. It took me about 10-11 hours to go up and get the table, I don't think I could have built the table in much less time. Having to accelerate the purchase of a new hoist made the trip a little more expensive, but the hoist was on sale AND I used a 20% coupon at Harbor Freight AND I didn't have to pay shipping. I think the hoist was about $170 out the door for the 2 ton version.

 

[gahi]

Uh-Oh, more horizontal space in the shop. Good score though!

 

[lstzephyr]

My old mirrors gotta go! Do these look like the mirrors you have on your truck? http://www.awdirect.com/tripod-mirror-kit-standard-cham-cal-engineering-50301/mirrors/?epc=AWSEFGL&CID=AWSEFGL&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=OR7

 

[Metcalf]

I had some that looked similar but they where total junk. The mirrors on my truck now where gifted to me. They are original 1974 GM mirrors that are stainless steel oem quality. They don't shake or rattle.

 

[lstzephyr]

Thanks, I'm trying to avoid junk. I found a few on some old trucks out in the junkyard, I will see what I come up with.

I'm going to attempt to copy your high steer in the next couple months. I'll probably be asking some questions. Step one is order a springless high steer arm.

 

[Metcalf]

Its fairly easy to do the crossover as long as you keep all the measurements I used the same There is a good thread on DTR about low lift crossover steering that I have been helping with. A gentleman over there tried to use a Nortwest Fab kit. He has had to find other parts. The magic formula for me was....

-Jeep WJ pitman arm ( Parts Mike will re-taper and remove the keys for an off the shelf option). I think its still less than $50.

-The steering arm needs to be 6.0" center to center. I made mine 1.5" tall and it worked well for my THICK springs. With less lift or different springs you can use a steering arm that is less tall. Your truck was .5" taller than mine in front with your skyjacker springs.

-Buy the Poly Performance double adjuster.
-Buy a threaded insert to match the above
-Use a single bend drag link
-Buy TRE's that will work with the above threaded inserts. I used GM 3/4 ton stuff.

If you have any other questions let me know....

 

[lstzephyr]

Thanks! What was the tubing size and approximate degree of bend on your drag link?

If you could post a link to the other thread you are helping with I would really appreciate it!

 

[Metcalf]

1.25" OD on the drag link. Mine is solid material. I will have to check on the bend angle. I just did it in the press till it fit

 

[lstzephyr]

Did you leave the stock steering arm as a cap on the driver's side?

Thanks, I should have taken notes/pictures when I was there.

 

[Metcalf]

Yup, stock steering arm still on the drivers side.

 

[DoMiNiC1]

You truck is pure man. Great work sir.

 

[lstzephyr]

I think you mentioned wanting some type of seal between your cap and cab when we were comparing trucks in colorado. I mentioned a thread I couldn't find for awhile but I found it looking for some seals for my cap. Maybe this will be useful.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/39774-Project-T100-quot-Baja-Explorer-Ver.-2-quot/page6

 

[Metcalf]

I have been super busy with my Willys rebuild and just haven't done much on the Dodge except put miles on it. I thought I would share a few thoughts and notes however....

-The new Pitbull Maddog radial tires have been GREAT so far. They are wearing REALLY nice so far on the 9" wide wheels. The 17x9" steel wheels with 5" backspacing have been a pretty much PERFECT fit on the truck. The tires are under the body, they don't rub when turning, and it seems to track and steer great. We have gotten our first snow and ice on the roads here in Colorado also. The tires did just fine. I haven't got to drive around in a ton of snow or ice, but so far so good!

-The truck just keeps going. It seems to be returning about 19mpg on summer diesel during my weekly commute back and forth to town/work/etc. Now that we have winter diesel it seems to have dropped down to 18mpg or so. I also let the truck warm up a little bit more in the mornings and such.

-The crossover steering is working great. This was probably the best driveability mod to the truck overall. I highly recommend that anyone running a 1st gen 4wd Dodge do this modification.

-Overall the cheap and quick Rustoleum paint job seems to be holding up better than I thought it would. Its nice to be able to fix paint chips or whatever with a spray can from any walmart.

-The truck just works. It does everything I want. Sometimes I wish it was a 2003-2007 regular cab long box 4wd, Cummins, Auto, base model instead of an older 1992. Overall though, the truck is just bone simple and works.

Once my Willys project is driving around I will be doing some more stuff on the Dodge. I still have a new turbo, gauges, etc to do. I also really want to install a mid mounted winch. I need to give the brake system some attention also.....that is a good place for an upgrade too.

If I did find the right ( cheap enough ) 2003-2007 dodge donor I would consider building a newer version of the same truck. I would stick with 37" tires and NOT do any body cutting or mods :sombrero: Between the body mods on the Dodge and my old Willys I am pretty burned out on sheetmetal mods!

The only area that I am still not 100% happy with is the rear shell system. I still want to do something different for more storage and useability options.....

 

[bftank]

what turbo did you go with?

 

[Metcalf]

HE351CW off a 2006ish dodge.