Project: Expedition Allroad
- Thread starter ExDementia
- Start date
ExDementia
Adventurer
I was going back and forth on new downpipes because you're right, sooo much easier to do when they're out of the car, but I finally decided that I since I needed to smog it (in California), and that catted DPs are so expensive, that I'll just leave them stock for now and change them later. There's a good chance I'll be moving out of state in 6 months, so I'll be in a better position then to see what I can get away with. It was super tempting for sure, but I just need to get this running, smogged and registered. In CA you can't register a car in your name without a smog certificate from within 90 days from that point, which I obviously don't have. So I had to be responsible for once, which really isn't my strong suit.
Thank you!
java
Expedition Leader
I was going back and forth on new downpipes because you're right, sooo much easier to do when they're out of the car, but I finally decided that I since I needed to smog it (in California), and that catted DPs are so expensive, that I'll just leave them stock for now and change them later. There's a good chance I'll be moving out of state in 6 months, so I'll be in a better position then to see what I can get away with. It was super tempting for sure, but I just need to get this running, smogged and registered. In CA you can't register a car in your name without a smog certificate from within 90 days from that point, which I obviously don't have. So I had to be responsible for once, which really isn't my strong suit.
Thank you!
Ah that makes sense. I did a B5 S4 once. They are a not fun with the motor in the car..... do-able but not fun.
Cant wait to see it smogged and running!
ExDementia
Adventurer
After bringing it home three months ago (almost to the day), the Expedition Allroad is moving under its own power, and it (mostly) does so quite well.
After setting the engine in last weekend, we still needed to do quite a bit. We through on the new axles, both intercoolers, charge pipes, accessory belt and fan, hooked up all the coolant lines, the clutch line and bled the clutch, the Y-pipe up top, the airbox, routed all the vacuum lines as needed, added fluids, etc.
New axles in and looking nice and pertty:
Since we had to use the timing belt covers from the S4 engine (the Allroad ones broke apart when the timing belt shredded), the grommets and bolt holes for the charge pipes didn’t line up. They sit slightly lower on the S4 motor, so instead of forcing them down and potentially cut themselves up on the frame rails, we just let them sit how they wanted to. They’re pretty secure there, so I don’t foresee any issues.
You can see the tabs on the bottom of the charge pipes where they wanted to sit here:
This is what $100 in fluids looks like:
Once we got everything back together and ready to go, we left the ECU unhooked and cranked the motor over for about 10 seconds to get oil flowing everywhere that hasn’t received oil in a while, namely the turbos which have been out of a car for at least 8 years now (sitting oiled in a box). Then we hooked the ECU up and tried to fire it up.
After about 5 seconds of cranking, it fired right up, but quickly died. We figured we might have flooded it after cranking it without the ECU for so long, so we let it sit for about 15 minutes and cleaned up a bit. When we tried it again it fired up almost immediately, but again died out just as quick.
Here’s a quick video of that:
So we went and checked, double checked, and then triple checked just about every connection we could think of and found nothing. We noticed a blinking light of a car with a little key, and figured that was the dreaded immobiliser light. I immediately thought this had something to do with the fact that I removed the cluster to work on it (never actually replaced the LCD), so we were googling around for solutions.
After reading through a few forum threads, I found one where a guy said he just replaced the battery in the key and it fired right up. We didn’t think it would work, but we decided to grab the spare key and try that. Sure enough, it fired right up and ran smooth.
It is making some sort of clicking noise from the very front, which we think is the mechanical fan, as it’s cracked in some places and visibly wobbly, but other than that it runs awesome. We took it around the neighborhood to test everything out, and it pulls as strong as 250hp should in a car that weighs just over two tons.
A few issues that need to be addressed:
More updates as they come...
After setting the engine in last weekend, we still needed to do quite a bit. We through on the new axles, both intercoolers, charge pipes, accessory belt and fan, hooked up all the coolant lines, the clutch line and bled the clutch, the Y-pipe up top, the airbox, routed all the vacuum lines as needed, added fluids, etc.
New axles in and looking nice and pertty:
Since we had to use the timing belt covers from the S4 engine (the Allroad ones broke apart when the timing belt shredded), the grommets and bolt holes for the charge pipes didn’t line up. They sit slightly lower on the S4 motor, so instead of forcing them down and potentially cut themselves up on the frame rails, we just let them sit how they wanted to. They’re pretty secure there, so I don’t foresee any issues.
You can see the tabs on the bottom of the charge pipes where they wanted to sit here:
This is what $100 in fluids looks like:
Once we got everything back together and ready to go, we left the ECU unhooked and cranked the motor over for about 10 seconds to get oil flowing everywhere that hasn’t received oil in a while, namely the turbos which have been out of a car for at least 8 years now (sitting oiled in a box). Then we hooked the ECU up and tried to fire it up.
After about 5 seconds of cranking, it fired right up, but quickly died. We figured we might have flooded it after cranking it without the ECU for so long, so we let it sit for about 15 minutes and cleaned up a bit. When we tried it again it fired up almost immediately, but again died out just as quick.
Here’s a quick video of that:
So we went and checked, double checked, and then triple checked just about every connection we could think of and found nothing. We noticed a blinking light of a car with a little key, and figured that was the dreaded immobiliser light. I immediately thought this had something to do with the fact that I removed the cluster to work on it (never actually replaced the LCD), so we were googling around for solutions.
After reading through a few forum threads, I found one where a guy said he just replaced the battery in the key and it fired right up. We didn’t think it would work, but we decided to grab the spare key and try that. Sure enough, it fired right up and ran smooth.
It is making some sort of clicking noise from the very front, which we think is the mechanical fan, as it’s cracked in some places and visibly wobbly, but other than that it runs awesome. We took it around the neighborhood to test everything out, and it pulls as strong as 250hp should in a car that weighs just over two tons.
A few issues that need to be addressed:
- That (possible) fan noise
- The turn signal stalk has an issue that causes a very, very annoying noise (fairly common on these)
- The tire rub is pretty bad on tight turns
- The check engine light is on until I get a tune that will exclude the deleted SAI
More updates as they come...
ExDementia
Adventurer
Thanks man!
Gave it a nice wash after sitting in its own filth and dust for months. Cleans up pretty nice, doesn't it? Still some things to sort out functionally and cosmetically, so for now it's being relegated to DD/mall crawler status until I sort out the tire rub situation and some skid plates.
Need to buff out those horribly sandblasted headlights, replace some worn interior trim, fix the ridiculous turn signal noise (ordered a new turn stalk and hazard light switch/relay), and I think I might need a new power steering pump.
Also, the previous owner said he had done the 402 air suspension mod (a readjustment to the leveling software in VCDS), but from what I'm reading it doesn't seem like he did, since the front seems to sit a bit lower than the rear with the IPP sensor arms. I'll have to play around with that a bit, but a legit VCDS is kind of expensive. I've got a friend with one that will let me borrow it, but that's not a long term solution.
The good news is that the engine is running awesome, the transmission shifts beautifully (linkage might need a little adjustment for reverse), and it's not throwing any unexpected codes.
You know what my lady said when she first rode in it this weekend?
“Wow, I'm surprised it works...”
Thanks for the confidence, babe...
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ExDementia
Adventurer
Yeah, I definitely need to do that. I'll be snagging one of these: http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/
ExDementia
Adventurer
Just ordered one of those ultra cheap license plate light bar mounts:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/23-Bull-Bar-Front-Bumper-License-Plate-Mount-Bracket-Holder-Offroad-LED-Light-/172171605792?hash=item28163a3720:g:l0gAAOSwEzxYbvez&vxp=mtr
$22 shipped. It will probably be a piece of crap, but for that cheap, I figure why not try it out. Not sure whether I want to go with a light bar or a more old school round offroad light look. Maybe some cheap Hella 500s or something would look cool and be functional.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/23-Bull-Bar-Front-Bumper-License-Plate-Mount-Bracket-Holder-Offroad-LED-Light-/172171605792?hash=item28163a3720:g:l0gAAOSwEzxYbvez&vxp=mtr
$22 shipped. It will probably be a piece of crap, but for that cheap, I figure why not try it out. Not sure whether I want to go with a light bar or a more old school round offroad light look. Maybe some cheap Hella 500s or something would look cool and be functional.
OuterLimits
I control the horizontal and the vertical
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OuterLimits
I control the horizontal and the vertical
Just ordered one of those ultra cheap license plate light bar mounts:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/23-Bull-Bar...ash=item28163a3720:g:l0gAAOSwEzxYbvez&vxp=mtr
$22 shipped. It will probably be a piece of crap, but for that cheap, I figure why not try it out. Not sure whether I want to go with a light bar or a more old school round offroad light look. Maybe some cheap Hella 500s or something would look cool and be functional.
ExD,
I have also been looking for a plug-n-play light mount for my front end. I have seen the same mount you are ordering on eBay. The bar is intriguing, but I had concerns, like you, that the mount itself may be a bit flimsy (thin aluminum). The width of the bracket at 14.5" appears to be wider than a 12" US license plate, and at 4" inches high is also shorter than the 6" US dimensions.
I did more digging and found a beefier bracket (sans bar) for $50.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331915529238?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
It is powder coated stainless steel and appears to be using much thicker material. Unfortunately, they do not provide dimensions.
If your bumper configuration permits, this bracket can be reversed to set the lights back from the mounting point. This would be helpful in parking lots where idiots are always pulling up too close and crushing my license plate (and lights if they are mounted forward of the plate).
I found other versions that look the same but are made of aluminum, are less expensive ($27.50), and do provide dimensions (except thickness).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Bumper-License-Plate-Mount-Bracket-Holder-for-Offroad-Lamp-LED-Light-Bar/221940720986?_trksid=p2045573.c100505.m3226&_trkparms=aid=555014&algo=PL.DEFAULT&ao=1&asc=38530&meid=2414275f9e0949f9a088cdfd893bbdb3&pid=100505&rk=1&rkt=1&
My guess is the stainless version has the same dimensions as the aluminum mount. Both of these simple "L" mounts appear to use thicker material compared to the "Bar" version you ordered, but none list material thickness.
I'll probably go with the steel mount for the added robustness.
Like you, I am also torn with lighting options. It is simpler (and less DC juice) to put a LED light bar on the nose, but far, far sexier to put 2-3 round incandescent lights up front.
Good luck
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ExDementia
Adventurer
Let me know how that other mount works out if you order one! I took a chance with this one, and it could be totally useless, but it was cheap enough to not really be a big deal if it doesn't work out. There are some similar ones made with better materials, so if I like the dimensions of this one I'll probably order one of the more expensive steel ones. Or I might go with the one you sent instead, I think the Allroad might be able to reverse the mount to set the lights back.
Here are more detailed dimensions of the one I ordered:
Oh and I decided to go with the classic look and ordered the Hella 500s. Not the greatest lights, but I've had them in the past and they're good value. Down the line when I recoup some funds and get the major stuff out of the way, I'd like to get some PIAA 520s on the bumper and/or maybe a row on the roof rack
Here are more detailed dimensions of the one I ordered:
Oh and I decided to go with the classic look and ordered the Hella 500s. Not the greatest lights, but I've had them in the past and they're good value. Down the line when I recoup some funds and get the major stuff out of the way, I'd like to get some PIAA 520s on the bumper and/or maybe a row on the roof rack
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OuterLimits
I control the horizontal and the vertical
If you have links for a steel version I'd like to check it out.
I kind of like the bar up front, and it would help protect the lights from parking lot idiots.
Great call on the Hellas... Classic!
I kind of like the bar up front, and it would help protect the lights from parking lot idiots.
Great call on the Hellas... Classic!
ExDementia
Adventurer
Finally threw on the last bits of trim, the snorkel for the airbox, the ripped up fender liners, and did some clearancing with the ol' BFH. Tires still rub, though.
When reversing with the wheels cranked, the tires caught this little fender bracket and pulled it out, causing some annoying rub, so I bent the bottom back with some pliers and then went to work with a hammer to make sure it didn't happen again. Also pushed it back a bit to give a little more room. Still more work to be done before the tires are free and clear though.
Before (crappy shot, I know):
And after:
Of course now that's covered with the fender liners anyway, but it helped. Longterm I will be either trimming or relocating that bracket further forward.
And then here's my temporary solution to that terrible blinker noise. The relay in the hazard switch was going nuts (due to a bad switch in the turn stalk, weirdly enough), so I just removed it. Both the hazard switch/relay and the stalk go bad on these, so I just ordered both. Only $43 shipped for both, so I figured why not just get them and be done with it.
Taking apart the steering wheel and trim should be a fun project...
That's it for now while I wait on parts. Just driving it around, trying to put miles on it and weed out any issues from the swap, but so far so good!
When reversing with the wheels cranked, the tires caught this little fender bracket and pulled it out, causing some annoying rub, so I bent the bottom back with some pliers and then went to work with a hammer to make sure it didn't happen again. Also pushed it back a bit to give a little more room. Still more work to be done before the tires are free and clear though.
Before (crappy shot, I know):
And after:
Of course now that's covered with the fender liners anyway, but it helped. Longterm I will be either trimming or relocating that bracket further forward.
And then here's my temporary solution to that terrible blinker noise. The relay in the hazard switch was going nuts (due to a bad switch in the turn stalk, weirdly enough), so I just removed it. Both the hazard switch/relay and the stalk go bad on these, so I just ordered both. Only $43 shipped for both, so I figured why not just get them and be done with it.
Taking apart the steering wheel and trim should be a fun project...
That's it for now while I wait on parts. Just driving it around, trying to put miles on it and weed out any issues from the swap, but so far so good!